While traveling through Burgundy for its respectable vineyard and other gastronomic institutions, we often - wrongly - overlook a more bucolic facet of its culinary land. From the Ouche valley to the wild plains of Morvan, from Gevrey-Chambertin to the contrasting landscapes of Saône-et-Loire, discover our itinerary of the most beautiful country restaurants in Burgundy.
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Feast in the valley at Bligny-sur-Ouche
A confidential address, we flock to the Auberge de la Ruchotte to enjoy traditional and hearty cuisine. Press photo
The framework. Nestled in a confidential and wild corner of the Ouche valley, this inn is unlikely to be found by chance. Having become in a few years an essential address in the region, La Ruchotte attracts gourmets from all over the world. In terms of decor, a room with beautiful stone walls, solid wood tables… And large format photographs of metal music stars, the boss's passion!
At table. Former roaster at Pierre Gagnaire, the tattooed Frédéric Ménager surrounds himself with a most appetizing menagerie: rare poultry, Solognot sheep, black pigs from Bigorre, all decorated with vegetables and fresh herbs from the garden. At 12:30 sharp, the feasts take the form of a unique menu where beautiful plates and copious casseroles are placed on the table in rhythm. Among the emblematic dishes, we find the perfect egg and flower salad, or the roasted guinea fowl and vegetable casserole. As for liquids, a directory format card where you can find the region's finest references.
The detail that makes the difference. When it's time for the coffee pusher, we remove a button and allow ourselves a digestive walk in the vegetable garden. And in recent weeks, we can now sit on the terrace.
Slate. Single menu starter-main course-cheese-dessert at 50 €.
Ferme de la Ruchotte , La Ruchotte, 21360 Bligny-sur-Ouche. Phone. : 03 80 20 04 79
Diving in the vegetable garden in Gyé-sur-Seine
Jewel of the Garde Champêtre, its vast organic vegetable garden, visible from the restaurant terrace. Press photo
The framework. Beyond the border which separates Aube from Châtillonnais, this former warehouse abandoned by the SNCF has returned to service, and not least, with a life-size renovation: vertiginous ceiling height, terrazzo floors, wooden counter, huge fireplace and open kitchen. Outside, a large terrace with a view of the organic vegetable garden, the restaurant's vegetable pantry.
At table. In the kitchen, the cosmopolitan “Guards” Gil Nogueira and Sayaka Sawaguchi, invent ultra-local market cuisine: 80% of the products are sourced within 40km around, much of which is in the garden. Evenings and weekends, it's time for plates to share: braised cabbage with whey and sunflower seeds, white tuna sashimi with garden berries, lamb tartare with grilled leeks ... Not to mention a selection of wines offered by the excellent Parisian wine merchant La Dernier Goutte, with real natural and more conventional nuggets.
The detail that makes the difference. Obtaining a first “green” star, awarded this year by the Michelin guide to reward restaurants committed to a sustainable approach.
Slate. Starter-main course-dessert lunch menu at 18 €. Plates to share from € 6 to € 18.
Le Garde Champêtre , route des Riceys, 10250 Gyé-sur-Seine. Phone. : 03 52 96 00 06
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Folly of great wines in Gevrey-Chambertin
A former rotisserie, the Bistrot Lucien now boasts modern decor. Press photo
The framework. Chef Thomas Collomb left Dijon and the venerable Maison des Cariatides for a beautiful 18th century residence. Right in the center of the village of Gevrey-Chambertin, this former rotisserie now has the decor of a modern country bistro, with dark benches, stone walls and minimalist lighting.
At table. Here we savor a traditional and generous cuisine, which ranges from the classic pâté of duck foie gras to the rack of farmhouse pork from Auvergne and macaroni gratin with salers, before finishing with (real) profiteroles topped with a delicious vanilla ice cream from Madagascar. In the glasses, a colossal selection and a touch of society, amply justified by the prestige of the surrounding vineyard. The opportunity or never to taste the great wines of the appellation.
The detail that makes the difference. The rotisserie now houses a new table d'hôtes. In an atmosphere reminiscent of that of a mountain chalet, you can taste high-level gastronomic cuisine - more expensive, of course.
Slate. Starter-main course-dessert lunch menu at 28 €. À la carte around € 55.
Bistrot Lucien , 6 Rue du Chambertin, 21220 Gevrey-Chambertin. Phone: 03 80 34 33 20
The chic version of the countryside in Saint-Jean-de-Trézy
At the Table de Rymska, simple, authentic and local cuisine. Press photo
The framework. Located 30 km from Beaune in the heart of a hilly countryside, surrounded by ponds, meadows and woods, Le Domaine de Rymska is a green paradise of 80 hectares, with farm and vegetable garden. Indoors, the place cultivates an atmosphere that is both chic and warm: large fireplace, light wood, velvet armchairs ...
At table. Dedicated to young talent by Gault & Millau, Jérémie Muller took the reins of the Table de Rymska in 2018, and has imposed his style with simple and authentic cuisine, entirely based on the richness of the local terroir. Among its signature dishes, we could not recommend enough this crispy egg, creamy with mushrooms and bacon, or this Wagyu beef seared with carrot tops. On the liquid side, a wine list that will appeal to lovers of great wines and a certain classicism.
The detail that makes the difference. It is possible to request a visit to the farm and the vegetable garden, in order to prolong the pleasure of the great outdoors.
Slate. Menus in 4 to 6 courses from 32 to 96 €.
Domaine de Rymska , 1, rue du Château de la Fosse, 71490 Saint-Jean-de Trézy. Phone. : 03 85 90 01 01
The moving Morvan in Alluy
La Grangée's cuisine, crowned with a gourmet Michelin plate, is a summary of what the Burgundy region has to offer. Facebook / La Grangée
The framework. Near the Morvan Natural Park, we find this small village inn with a simple and welcoming decor. Intimate room with only twenty seats, exposed stones and beams, wooden tables, weathered furniture, and above all a summer garden for sunny days.
At table. Awarded a gourmet plate by the Michelin Guide, the cuisine of Jean-Baptiste and Maïko Girard is a compendium of the best that the local terroir has to offer: meats, vegetables, cheeses, flour used to make delicious sourdough bread , and even saffron come from around. Over a 5-step menu, a succession of fun appetizers (including Morvandelle brioche with homemade smoked bacon), perfectly cooked fish or poultry from the market and vegetables from the garden, before finishing on a chocolate puff pastry with cherries of Burgundy. In the glasses, some fine references from the region and the Rhône valley.
The detail that makes the difference. The delicious cannelés and other homemade pastries from Maïko to take away.
Slate. 5-course menu at 43 €.
La Grangée , Le bourg, 58110 Alluy. Phone. : 03 86 76 11 56