The frozen magic flavors of "Boza", an ice cream in Arabic, are produced by Adam Ziv and Ala Suite from what grew up in their area • The kibbutznik who dreamed of ice cream from infancy and the restaurateur who understands numbers serve together a bridge between East and West

• Boza's mint ice cream. Treasures within it agricultural produce from the area

  Photo: 

  Ithiel Zion

The nose is an emotion with great memory. A small cloud of scent is enough for him, snatching perfume from the body of a man in the street, to awaken memories from their bed. When we entered the production and visitors center of the "Boza" ice cream in Kibbutz Sasa in the morning, where the smell of cleanliness and sweetness steals the nostrils, I suddenly returned to the nursery I would visit every day after school. A girl who watches over her younger ones, waiting for the caregiver to take a break to reach for the box of biscuits hidden in the closet. 

The same hand that lives a whole life later, in an ice cream factory in another kibbutz, sought the way to a jar in which thin slices of dough in salted chocolate, or the golden ones, dotted with cinnamon. Disks that, like the trophies baked at the place, were created in collaboration with the confectioner Michal Botton and came into the world in general to wipe ice cream from the package.

The ice cream chain, in which the kibbutz's ice cream parlor Adam Ziv (34) and restaurateur Ala Suitat (37) from Tarshiha are partners, was born in 2012 in Maalot Tarshiha. Three years later, production was moved to a building that once housed the dairy of Kibbutz Sasa, in front of a large oak tree planted in front of the landscape and beneath it a table and benches on which visitors sit. Shade over and ice cream between palms.

This is ice cream that contains agricultural produce from the area. Apple and kiwi, apricot, peach and plum, plays with the flavors of black sesame, with the nutty flavors of burnt butter. There is chocolate in sea salt, here is the next cashew in sweet and salty and brings a variety of textures, and mascarpone and fig ice cream reminiscent of the boy Ala who would sell them by the side of the road, or the bahti, cinnamon sorbet and orange zest melting on the tongue a memory of winter.

80 different flavors are brewed in the small production hall that looks out through the windows of the store in Sasa, where four ice creams are currently being produced in collaboration with the farmers from the farmers' market in the Tel Aviv port. Sweet white aged corn from the ravine cooked in cream and salted caramel, cactus and mint leaves meet yellow watermelon, carrots meet milk, cardamom and honey flowers, and tomato sorbet freezes warm flavors between sour and sweet. My spoon, which wanders between the new creations and the more familiar ones, knows how to tell about the aging of the ice cream, about the diminishing sweetness, about the sharp and clear reverberating mouth of the flavors in all the ice creams.

• • •

Adam says it's all a matter of discipline. "There's the imitation stage of hearing or outline," he explains in this quiet of his. "Playing outlines is like cooking from a recipe, it just puts the emphasis on performing according to instructions. After that comes the desert walk of accumulating technique. This is a mandatory step, like playing eight hours of scales on the piano every day. That way you reduce the distance between imagination and performance. The energy goes on what I want to say and not on how to say it. 

”I am now working on the vegetable ice cream project and I feel I have narrowed the gap between imagination and execution. In continuous action there are two main planes, one related to execution and the other to new ideas, that you will have something to say. I feel today that I also have something to say and also how to say it, "he says with a spectacularly innocent playing. He

also wants to reduce the presence of lactose, butter and cream flavors in the ice creams he makes. He says that lactose, like sugar, is a taste screen. For a change in eating habits, for declining consumption of sugar, white flour and dairy products. "I recognize this and respond to it. I want to control the creation of a bite from a place that does not express compromise. " 

How delightful it is to listen to a person, to follow him to a child who was, who still remembers the ball of milk ice cream they bought at the children's home on the way back from having fun at an amusement park and how from the first defeat his heart broke because it would soon be over. A boy whose ice cream concerto began playing before he was born. 

"I am a descendant of a family where all the men are sick of ice cream," he smiles. "My father has endless opinions on how and what to make. The scoop of ice cream that appears in the 'Boza' logo is the spoon that my grandfather had from his side in the Tel Aviv home kitchen." And there is Grandpa Spencer, Mom's dad, who planted first flavors of ice cream that he used to cook in the small kitchenette in his kibbutz room.

The whole area knew the late Dr. Tommy Spencer, one of the pioneers of family medicine in the Western Galilee. A Czech refugee who came to England with child shipments, studied medicine and got to know sleep. In '66, a pair of doctors immigrated to Israel with their four children who wanted to be sent to a place where English was spoken and with weather that would be reminiscent, if possible, of that of Europe.

So they came to Sasa in the Galilee, to plant a house and music in it. "Grandpa played the violin and the children were sent to learn to play all kinds of instruments, to have a chamber composition," Adam smiles the family's character story, "My uncle was also sent to learn the violin, his brother played the cello, my aunt played the viola and my mother was sent to learn piano".

The next generation was also added to this lineup. All of Adam's brothers play, and he, who plays the piano and guitar, has already released two CDs of songs he has written and composed.

Music and ice cream played all his way on the great post-army trip, beginning in Milan and from there to cities and villages in Italy and the Balkans. He used to play Dylan and Simon and Garfunkel on the streets, occasionally daring with his own original song, and eating ice cream. So until winter came, and with it rain and cold, and no street music and no ice cream.

A phone call from his mother sent him to La Gomera, a small island in the Canaries, where English writer Anthony Smith was looking for hands to help him build a raft on which he planned to cross the Atlantic Ocean.

For four months he helped build the raft, at night he would go to hear the lectures of Smith, who was then 84, to learn from him a lesson about the power of fulfilling dreams. On weekends he found work in a small ice cream parlor run by two nomads, a couple, he is French and she is from Germany. Thus he acquired for himself first tools in the witch way, which freezes all the vegetation in the environment and turns it into ice cream.

In January 2011 Smith set off accompanied by three retirees, two sailors and a mechanical engineer, and on the beach remained a man with a dream of the ice cream parlor he would open at the end of his private voyage. 

The Cape Verde Islands were the next stop, on the way to Brazil, but the dream of frozen ice cream became a burning one and he interrupted the trip, stopped on the way in Vinci, a small Tuscan village where Leonardo da Vinci was born and runs an ice cream parlor, which he had another school, and returned home to the Galilee , To create in it an ice cream that grows out of growing in the environment. One that would allow him a real bridge between him and his neighbors. "Ice cream parlor in an Arab village, with an Arab partner."

• • •

The first to be approached was Tommy Magzal, the mythological butcher Magish who was a close friend of Grandpa. After being shaken in the negative, he turned to Ala, an accountant and owner of the Aluma restaurant in Tarshiha, where he started as a bartender and was the right-hand man of owners Alpha and Ilan Perry, until in 2008 they sold him to him. 

In this restaurant, where the kitchen faces east and west, Adam looked directly at Ala's blue eyes, those now laughing in front of him, and offered him a partnership. The name chosen was "Boza", the Arabic word for ice cream, and a small and happy place opened in Tarshiha, not far from the Aluma restaurant.

Ala, the fourth of seven brothers, knows both the way of numbers and the optimistic power that the work brings. Knows how to smile in front of his partner even on a day when the factory is on strike because the manager is ill, or on days when no one can tell them what will happen to all the money left in the restaurants and banquet halls with which they work on days free of corona.

On the way back to Tel Aviv, at the entrance to the mall on the way, the heat gun aimed at my temple announced exactly 36 degrees. "Our mouth has a temperature of 36 degrees," Adam's voice said to me, "and ice cream enters it at minus 13 degrees. It lowers the temperature of the mouth, its ability to sense flavors, so that sweet ice cream will be delicious in the first bite but then it becomes sweet. too. 

"I'm interested in the second beat. I'm referring to him. It is with the rising heat that the flavors are revealed. The first defeat is Uber Woolming. " 

Just before entering the kitchen to install ice cream from the first memory, a few things: Boza's ice cream truck will arrive at the farmers' market in the Tel Aviv port to offer at especially low prices a first experience of cooperation with the market farmers. The car will be parked in the hangar. 12, Tel Aviv Port, on July 22-7, 25 and July 29-8, Wednesday-Thursday from 4:00 PM to 8:00 PM, Friday from 7:00 AM to 3:00 PM and Saturday from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM. For the 

travelers in the north, the ice cream shop next to the production hall in Sasa offers a relatively small variety compared to the branch in Tarshiha, but there is a great charm in eating under the oak tree and peeking (through the window!) Into the production process.

The lemon ice cream of the late Dr. Tommy Spencer

"With all due respect to me and Boza," says Adam, "to this day this grandfather's ice cream is remembered in my family as the best ice cream in the world." The preparation is easier and the quantity is nice for a liter container. The simple plastic boxes are absolutely beautiful for this use.



Ingredients:

√ 450 ml sweet cream for whipping

√ Grating from 2 lemons

√ Juice from 3 juicy lemons

√ 1 cup sugar



Mix the lemon juice with the sugar until the sugar melts into it. Add slowly and while stirring the cream (important to mix To prevent overheating) and the lemon zest, stir a little more - and freeze.

Whipped cream ice cream without a machine 

This is one of the easiest ice creams to make in a home without a machine. You can make it as a base and add flavors to it, or just eat it as it is, which according to a person like that is also the most delicious. 

He would like to point out that the grape sugar that appears in the recipe can be found in the baby food area at the supermarket or pharma store. This is a particularly important ingredient because grape sugar lowers the freezing temperature and causes the ice cream to be soft and fluffy in the freezer. The quantity is nice for a liter container.

Ingredients:

√ 2 containers (500 ml) sweet cream for whipping

√ 1/2 cup sugar

√ 3 tablespoons grape sugar

Beat all the ingredients together in a mixer, slowly, until you get a texture similar to thick yogurt (not whipped cream!). 

At this point, if you feel like it, you can add rose water, vanilla, herbs, quality cocoa, cookie crumbs or anything else that comes to mind. Now transfer to a container and send to the freezer.

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