The breeze gently pushes the bicycle on the last section of the Camino de Sirga , the path that crosses the Ebro delta following the course of the river to the mouth. There are 30 kilometers of signposted route that in its path show infinite rice fields, riverside forests, reeds and reeds, and a great variety of water birds that at this time of year surprise each moment with their elegant flight and dances over the Water. And at the end of the road, the Migjorn beach , a strategic point to contemplate the island of Buda and the lagoon of La Alfacada from its viewpoint . It is also a perfect place to stop for a bath or to walk along the shore as many kilometers as desired.
The Ebro delta is one of the largest wetlands in the Mediterranean, with 320 square kilometers full of life and splendid landscapes that the human hand has been able to chisel and take advantage of to transform it into a friendly habitat. This territory is a welcome point for numerous species of birds - more than 300 are counted -, many of which stay throughout the summer. A welcoming nature that allows to be enjoyed slowly, without tumults, to the rhythm of bicycle and walks, good food and long naps, of curious contemplation and evenings to delight in the starry sky and clean of impurities. And it is that the delta is so flat that everything seems affordable, even the sky.
The dunes and the intense wind delight kite surfers on the beach of Riumar
The Ebro divides this universe of rice fields into two halves, identical and very different at the same time. While the north , bounded by Fangar bay , offers immense dune beaches , the south is home to the two largest lagoons, Encanyissada and La Tancada . The best way to explore them is to rent a bicycle and leave first thing in the morning to undertake the route of about 26 kilometers that borders this paradise of water and birds, and which offers various viewpoints where to stop to contemplate groups of flamingos taking the sun and taking flight at the slightest noise.
Pedaling arouses appetite and is a success. Gastronomy is one of the great delights that the delta offers. Before a rice made to the point, with a balanced flavor, one can only surrender and enjoy. The Delta economy is basically agricultural, and rice prevails as the most extensive crop, followed by the vegetable garden and fishing. And these three sectors are the base of a delicious gastronomic offer that can be tasted in many restaurants and food houses of proven solvency. To the rice dishes with duck , seafood , vegetables , crab ... are added the traditional eel stews - in sauce or cured -; the mussels a la marinera, fantastic in summer; oysters, battered nettles ... And some desserts with Arab roots, among which the classic angel hair pastissets stand out , which are currently covered with numerous fillings; the menjar blanc , made with rice flour, milk and cinnamon, and a wide range of cocs , biscuits with very diverse flavors, all of them artisans. The tradition of making homemade sweets has always been maintained in restaurants, so it is convenient to leave a place for them.
The Ebro delta is one of the largest wetlands in the Mediterranean, with 320 square kilometers
Near these two large bodies of fresh water is Poblenou del Delta , a small town with white houses and tall palm trees with the highest density of restaurants per street in the area. To the establishments of a lifetime, with a classic menu of delta specialties and rice dishes such as Cal Faiges or Can Paquita (Ronda dels Pins, 5; 977 74 14 52), other more contemporary proposals have been added such as Poblet i Marieta (Ronda dels Pins, 19; 623 04 27 79), Lo Pati d'Agustí and also the restaurant of the hotel L'Algadir del Delta (Ronda dels Pins 27-29; 977 74 45 59), which is classified as bike friendly and offers its Cycling fans of all facilities.
Saline sunsets
The ravages that the storm Gloria left last January are evident in a walk along the delta coast. Barra del Trabucador was one of the most damaged areas and work is still underway to recover this strip of sand that leads to Punta de la Banya , where there is an important exploitation of salt. El Trabucador is one of the most iconic places in the delta, especially at sunset, when the sun sets behind Montsianell and the last rays are reflected in the water of the Alfacs bay . Other points that suffered the onslaught of the Gloria were La Marquesa beach, where the highly recommended excursion to the Punta del Fangar lighthouse in the northern part of the delta begins, in the heart of the natural park. They are about six kilometers round trip contemplating the flight of seabirds and a beautiful but dwindling dune area. Migjorn would be the third of the damaged places; the river arm that draws the island of Buda ends at this beach. The nearby insula and its freshwater lagoons are also part of this list of places that need a quick intervention before a new Glory appears.
Even so, the delta's beaches retain their main qualities: kilometers of sand with a low density of visitors, allowing for an absolute feeling of intimacy. Perfect for long walks on the sand, sitting under the umbrella for a good read or lying in the sun with hardly any noise, they remain spacious, wild and lonely. In the right (or south) hemidelta, in addition to Migjorn, are the Aluet , Eucaliptus , Serrallo and La Platjola sandbanks ; On the left (north), the Riumar beach, the aforementioned La Marquesa and the Fangar beach stand out, with high dunes and intense wind that delight kitesurfers .
The Ebro delta must be known by land and by water. There are numerous companies that organize routes such as Riu a l'Ebre . There is no better feeling than letting yourself be carried downstream by the current, with the breeze pushing the kayak while contemplating the life that arises on the banks, "says María José Vergés, who together with Joan Franch are the alma mater of the company. Once arrived at the mouth, the bicycle waits to return through intricate paths to the town of Deltebre. Another option is to kayak around Fangar Bay to reach the mussels ( miradorbadia.com ), where a tasting of this seafood grown in the warm Mediterranean waters is carried out accompanied by a glass of cava. Or sail the sea aboard the Skipper Black, the boat that Elisabet Casanova pilots and that offers a wide variety of routes to explore the aquatic environment, as well as fishing activities and à la carte itineraries. The Alfacs bay is not far behind in leisure and gastronomic proposals. Musclarium offers tasting of oysters and mussels in a fantastic space. Of course, it is advisable to go in the late afternoon to watch the sunset from the mussel. The boats leave from the town of Sant Carles de la Ràpita, so a good option is to stay for dinner in this old fishing village after the experience at sea. In La Ràpita there are many restaurants with an exquisite offer of fresh fish and seafood, as well as a pleasant promenade perfect for a walk after dinner.
At the other extreme, to the north of the delta, is another important tourist town, L'Ampolla, also of a seafaring essence. And although it is bathed in the waters of Fangar Bay, it has, like La Ràpita, a promenade lined with good restaurants with terraces overlooking the Mediterranean, as well as a range of small and rocky sandy beaches. transparent that create addiction. Among them are the Maria and L'Ascaret coves, and a little further north, in the Cap Roig area, the Perales cove, where the homonymous restaurant (perales.cat) is located , which opened 40 years ago and is still a benchmark for its delicious rice dishes.
Blue and green universe
The delta must also be seen by air, gazing at its characteristic figure from the sky, with its arms outstretched and its aquatic spine. For this, you can choose between a hot air balloon that for a little over an hour rises slowly and subtly high, while at our feet the aerial perspective of the green and blue universe that configures the delta is drawn, or a paramotor, emulating , thanks to the company Cebolla Voladora , to the large population of deltaic birds.
To have a more scientific, but very entertaining, view of the Ebro delta we have two inescapable visits. One of them passes through MónNatura Delta, the interpretation center for this wonderful environment, which is organized every September by the Delta Birding , one of the most important ornithology meetings in Spain (although this year's edition has been canceled due to the covid-19 pandemic). The second visit is to the Ecomuseum of the Ebro Delta Natural Park , located in the town of Deltebre (Doctor Martí Buera, 22), which takes a tour of the flora and fauna of the territory and explains the process of its formation. Once the theory is known, a rice paddy can be visited on-site to experience what it feels like to set foot in soft, damp mud, while learning how to roll a rall , an ancient form of fishing still used by the delta's elders. For this, it is necessary to carry out a cultural eco-safari with Delta Polet , a family business in which the two Josep Bertomeu, father and son, teach the most deeply rooted traditions of the area and a way of seeing life that venerates the ancestors and respects the environment. . The secrets of rice cultivation are revealed in the La Torra de Camarles center (Avenida de la Torre, s / n; 977 47 00 40), opened in 2016 and whose guided visits by Elies Rué are exceptional and give us a clear idea of how this territory has evolved in the last hundred years.
After that, all you have to do is marvel at the delta lights, its flat terrain, its aquatic personality and its Mediterranean sun, which provide sunrises and sunsets that are difficult to forget. Ingredients for a getaway in which values such as disconnection, authenticity and contact with the environment truly make sense.
In ecological key
The commitment to a sustainable tourism model is spreading more and more in the delta, a fragile and changing land that demands it. Rural accommodation, small hotels and restaurants offer stays linked to activities such as those of Delta Polet , which combine cycling and kayaking; electric bike tours and gastronomy with zero kilometer ingredients. Deltaic Eco , Hostal Cling 43 , Hotel L'Algadir , Delta Hotel , Hotel Rull or Cases del Delta are accommodations accredited with the European Charter for Sustainable Tourism granted by the international organization Europac, whose programs broadly promote the recognition of space Natural as a future heritage and the development of sustainable tourism taking into account the environment, the needs of visitors and those of the local population.
Another good proposal is to visit and even stay in a traditional barrack , an old construction that the peasants lived during the rice season, from April to the end of September. Built with reeds, mud and reed, they have been recovering since the 1990s and currently function as an attractive alternative to conventional tourism. In general they are located in 100% natural environments and, as is often claimed, they have the virtues of things that have survived generations, exceptional isolation and great charm. Of this new generation of barracks, those of Salvador la Barraca Vilbor (casadeldelta.com) stand out. In the interpretation center of the barracks located in the town of Sant Jaume d'Enveja (santjaumeturisme.com) the genesis and development of these characteristic centuries-old buildings with models and historical photos is shown.
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