Marrakech is a terrace from which you can see the snow from the peaks of the Atlas and the fires of Djemaa el Fna. Candle fires in handmade lanterns that illuminate scenes of storytelling and embers for roasting meats in one of the most iconic squares in the world , where the oral tradition of the burlesque story is dramatized , snakes danceto the sound of sharp trumpets or coins are collected in exchange for acrobatics. Underneath the tourist bustle of the medina is the truth of that metropolis founded by the Almoravids in 1062, which was the imperial capital, and the African truth of the palm grove in red soil, the same red that stains the bricks of their houses. The ocher city is, to tell the truth, a great pink urban nucleus, with long avenues and date park parks under a perennial sun and at the foot of an imposing massif. Desert and mountain solidity from which art is born, because there are centuries-old crafts and contemporary art, which are installed between the ornamental holes and in all their materials: clay, textiles, tiles, wood, leather with their scents , amber and musk.
A city of terraces with views, such as the mythical Café de France (1) or, opposite, the Argana restaurant (2) , hamanes such as Rosa Bonheur (3) and the minaret of the Koutoubia mosque (4) , twin of the Giralda. But also events, large auditoriums and discotheques, international gastronomy and brand-new infrastructures after the 2016 Climate Change summit, which has given its seal of African capital of Culture 2020 to Rabat, but which continues to show its continental capital without the need for labels .
9.00. African talent
After coffee in the riad - old houses in the old medina converted into charming hotels - where we stay, the perfect day would begin with a meeting of African contemporary art at the Museum of Contemporary African Art Al Maaden (Macaal) (5) , currently closed by covid-19. Inaugurated in 2018, it brings together digital art, paintings, sculptures and video dedicated to promoting the talent of the continent's creators. In the museum park, Al Maaden (6), which functions as a golf course, you can visit the permanent exhibition of sculptures, with works by prominent artists such as Moataz Nasr, Claude Gilli, Daniel Hourdé, Adiba Mkinsi, Antonio Seguí, Sunil Gawde, Mahi Binebine, Hassan Darsi, Yazid Oulab, and Abdelkrim Ouazzani. The views from here are superb.
11.00. Creativity among olive trees
If we have the good fortune to coincide with one of the editions of the gallery fair 1-54 (African Art Fair), which is held annually in three venues (Marrakech, London and New York), it will be essential to visit the majestic palace of La Mamounia (7) to be aware of what African and diaspora art galleries are promoting. The other possibility to get closer to the contemporary creativity of the continent is to reserve a place for a visit to Le Jardin Rouge of the Montresso Foundation. It is a farm full of olive groves that offers residence for artists and exhibition spaces, about 45 minutes from Kech - as the locals call the city. There, in addition to contemplating, we can dialogue with the artists themselves in action. In this framework, an exhibition called In-discipline is held every year , which this season brought together works by artists from the Congo River region, sponsored by Vitshois Mwilambwe Bondo, founder of Kin ArtStudio.
13.30. Tayin or couscous
After visiting the Menara gardens (8) —in the traditional Marrakech tourist itinerary— it's time to eat. Among the options are fresh fish and other seafood that come from Agadir, on the Atlantic coast, and that can be tasted in a family dining room such as El Bahria (75 Boulevard Moulay Rachid) (9) , where it is possible to choose a piece from the refrigerator and grab it right away. For an international menu or a more sophisticated tajine, nothing better than La Table du Marché (10) , in the L'Hivernage area. And we always have the possibility of a couscous on one of the terraces in Plaça de les Ferblantiers (tinsmiths) (11) . In the latter case, we will have only a five-minute walk to the El Badi Palace (12) , from the 16th century, whose museum can be visited at any time, and the extraordinary architecture of the Saadian tombs (Rue de La Kasbah) (13) , from the marrakech golden age; both essential.
17.00. Shopping and two museums
Near the Jewish cemetery, leaving behind the Moorish-style walls of the Bahia Palace (14) , from the 19th century, we will end up in another of the doors (bab, in Arabic) of the medina, to do some shopping in the restless souk of Marrakech ( 15) or to continue winding through the alleys to La Maison de la Photographie (16) . Surely we would like to hear some local music, so we can look for traditional gnawa or the more contemporary fusions of two artists born in this city such as Aziz Sahmaoui and Oum. Then you can opt for a quieter plan, such as enjoying the calm of the Berber Museum of the Majorelle Garden (17) or, when it reopens after the pandemic, discover the Yves Saint Laurent Museum (18) , inaugurated a couple of seasons ago in honor to the French couturier, who adored this city.
20.00. For an endless night
The 16th-century El Badi Palace and the extraordinary architecture of the Saadian tombs are must-sees
The night sky of Marrakech is that of the Sahara, infinite in time and space. To celebrate such imposing protection, nothing better than to dine at Le Foundouk (19) , near Djemaa el Fna square, where there is usually music, shows and good cocktails, all of which invite you to sit back and have a good time between cushions and Arabian music. If we still want to go out, the offer is diverse, with nightclubs open until late at night, especially in the Guéliz neighborhood, although we can also choose a dinner with a show at the Buddha Bar (buddhabarmarrakech.com) (20) . For those who have a good time, here is an unmissable date with electronic music, which takes place every September, with a luxury international line-up: the Oasis Festival. Although, again due to the covid, we will have to wait until 2021.
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