Milan Fashion Week, scheduled from Wednesday September 23 to Sunday September 27, was shaping up to be one of rebirth and hope for a fashion industry hit hard by the health crisis.
As a reminder, it was on Sunday February 23, during the previous edition here, that the coronavirus crisis hit a European metropolis for the first time.
One of the first to take the measure of the event was then Giorgio Armani who announced as soon as his parade would be held behind closed doors - never seen before.
A few hours after the last show on the calendar, Milan closed its doors for several months.
The story repeats itself.
For the past few days, the signals have been red.
And the tightening of health measures for French nationals, announced Monday afternoon by the Italian Minister of Health, Roberto Speranza, via a Facebook post darkens the picture again.
The regulations, which came into force on Tuesday, September 22, or less than 48 hours before the start of the parades, has everything to discourage travelers.
It requires going to the airport with the negative results of a PCR or antigen test (not available to date) or to be tested on landing in Italy with the risk of remaining seven days in quarantine ... , who to risk leaving for the few parades on the Milan calendar ... "
I lined up at 6 am in front of the medical center to have a negative test certificate,"
confides a press officer leaving for Milan.
At 8 a.m., I filled out a questionnaire to find out the reasons for taking this test, I lied and said that I had been in contact with a patient, because a departure by plane is not a valid reason , we fail.
They asked me to come back for the exam at 10:50 am.
I hope to have the results during the day.
The professionals are obliged to cancel one after the other.
"
I wonder if it's worth it to leave, I had fifteen cancellations between this weekend and this morning,"
continues an Italian living in France.
One after the other, the few British announced withdraw, buyers will buy from a distance via digital showrooms.
The Italians are taking things well, they want to stay light.
But it is a disaster for the industry.
"
The Facebook post of Roberto Speranza, Italian Minister of Health, announcing the new health measures applied to French nationals.
Facebook screenshot
Because before the French, it was already the defection of Asians, Americans, Germans, Belgians and, more recently, the British (targeted by a quarantine of return to the United Kingdom) which cast doubt on this meeting. you.
What is the point of parades if there is neither the media (many press groups forbid their journalists to travel), nor buyers from department stores and eshops, influencers, models, hairdressers, make-up artists, decorators ...?
Obviously, the collateral damage is inestimable: the hotels welcoming all these little people, the restaurants that are full for eight days, the driver services etc.
The event brings, in normal times, 40 million euros to the city.
The industry wanted to believe it.
And then, this spring, Gucci and Bottega Veneta withdrew from the calendar.
Prada, whose long-awaited first collection co-signed by Raf Simons was to be presented, has given up a physical event in favor of a digital presentation.
Same move to virtual for Donatella Versace.
For the rare brands - Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Max Mara, Boss, Etro, Salvatore Ferragamo, Blumarine and Valentino - which have, to date, maintained their parade, social distancing of 1m30 between two seats is required.
The number of guests is reduced to the strict minimum.
So who to take the front row seat?
“
The family, the Italian press, a few celebrities and a handful of English, Russians and Germans,”
explains the communications manager of a large house
.
Let's say we are planning a parade in small groups to respect the sanitary rules.
"
