No confusion.
The bear is only trained at the entrance of the restaurant: a stuffed brown giant, impressive.
Jacky Ribault bought it six months before moving to Vincennes.
A nod to the menagerie of the neighboring zoo, to the constellation's large pan.
He is also a double deceiver, because, beneath his gruff and bearded exterior, the man with the Chabalian physique has the honeyed heart of a teddy-bear… Except when clients tear several claws from the plantigrade.
An imbecile theft which we prefer to believe is the result of fetishists wanting to keep a symbolic memory of the chef's "kick".
Jacky Ribault © Julie Limont
What a trick, indeed: direct and rebellious like an index finger, generous like a wide open palm.
After leaving his mark on his Parisian establishment Qui Plume la Lune, now run by Jean-Christophe Rizet, Jacky has won a star in this atypical place in more ways than one.
A discreet address, with no frontage on the street, a large room with refined decoration, as pleasant for lunch as for the evening.
The tables were already spaced before the sanitary measures.
Perfect soundproofing: you can converse, hear the menu.
No card.
First bites: yellow beet ravioli with tonka bean, parmesan bubble, line lean pissaladière, bamboo charcoal crackers ...
Superb aesthetic presentation, yes, and the stomach?
The biases are as strong as the right and subtle flavors.
The fresh seasonal products, as much as possible from the region, take root in the terroir of this cuisine which has nothing down to earth.
Tonic exotic wanderings on classic dishes draw
"small shots with an Asian spice, a lovage gel"…
Immediate summons of pleasure with the original smoked eel, miso and ginger sabayon, powdered with squid ink.
Green zebra tomatoes in sherbet, trout and salmon roe are not everyone's favorites like veal tenderloin, melted scamorza, porcini mushroom and fig.
Excellent desserts.
Original sommelier choices like this New York riesling from Forge Cellars ...
Feed on a memory ... with in the chef's den, the “friends” table (eight guests).
Ideal for seeing the stove-top grizzly bear fully living their cuisine.
L'Ours, 10, rue de l'Église, 94300 Vincennes
(01.46.81.50.34;
Loursrestaurant.com
).
Menus: € 60, € 90, € 120 (excluding drinks).
Closed Sunday and Monday.