48 hours in Toulouse, our most beautiful addresses for an escape in the Pink City

Listen to Nougaro, but not too much.

Toulouse has changed a lot since the famous song dedicated to "its" city.

The Place du Capitole is (fortunately) still there, it remains a lung of the city, become pedestrian like all the center.

The adjacent areas, Place Wilson, Place Saint-Georges, Rue d'Alsace-Lorraine, Place Saint-Sernin, Place Saint-Etienne, the quays of the Garonne, in other words the cardinal points of the heart of Toulouse are now the kingdom of walkers , cyclists.

Cars are hardly tolerated there.

The metro leads there from the extremes.

The tram too.

You will borrow them but moderately.

Toulouse is best discovered and revealed on foot.

Its streets littered with mansions erected in brick sometimes make one think of Venice.

They visit each other with their noses in the air.

On the outskirts, to the north with the Airbus factory, to the south with the Cité de l'Espace, Toulouse takes on its technological, modern, unique dimension.

And Sud-Ouest obliges, you are never far from a good bar or a table to discover!

The arrival

The train hypothesis has to be seriously considered since rue Bayard has been renovated.

Adjacent to the Matabiau station, it allows you to reach the center (place Wilson, place Victor Hugo) in about fifteen minutes by walk and if your suitcase does not have wheels or you don't want to walk, the metro leads to the same place in five minutes.

The tourist office allows you to buy your ticket in advance.

Opt for the 48h pass at 28 €.

Unlimited metro and free museums and monuments.

Coming from Paris, the train takes four and a half hours.

Leave on Friday in the early evening and return at the end of the Sunday afternoon.

And there is the alternative plane, shorter (1h10) but the airport is further away… Taxis make the outward or return trip in about 30 minutes.

Package at 35 €.

Call one?

Dial 05 34 25 02 50. You just have to reach the hotel.

Book in the city center.

MORE INFORMATIONS

Group or individual guided tours are organized by

toulouse-tourisme.com.

Information on 05 61 11 02 30.

What to do now

THE EXPO TO SEE

Fernand Léger (after),

.

Tapestry, wool, 347 x 427 cm.

Master Guy Loudmer.

Depot at the Abattoirs, Museum - Frac Occitanie Toulouse.

Adagp, Paris

Fernand Léger, ceramics and tapestries

.

Les Abattoirs, a contemporary art museum, is exhibiting ceramics and tapestries by Fernand Léger until the end of January 2021.

After having reviewed the twenty works of the painter-sculptor-ceramicist, take the time to go and see the modern collections of the museum made up of post-1950s works, mostly donated by two collectors: Anthony Denney and Daniel Ropemaker.

From Dubuffet to Tàpies via Vasarely, the paintings focus on the 1950s and 1960s, the second enriched the collection with works by César, Arman, Brassaï, Combas, Duchamp, Mapplethorpe… The highlight of the museum is a Picasso: a monumental stage curtain (8 x 13 m) made in 1936 and called

.

A light-sensitive piece that can only be exposed for 6 months a year.

Besides the exhibits, this museum is worth the trip for its building and its position: the view of the Toulouse right bank from the adjoining quays is a marvel.

Les Abattoirs

, 76 allées Charles-de-Fitte, 31300 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 34 51 10 60. Open Wednesday to Sunday from noon to 6 pm.

THE RIGHT TABLE

The Lark

Thomas de Roaldès and Nicolas Ségura have a lot of ideas.

Five years ago, they worked together in a French delicatessen in… Hongkong.

Back in their hometown, they decided to settle.

Since 2018, L'Alouette has opened seven days a week at Place Victor Hugo.

With chef Nicolas Servant, they develop a simple and terribly good concept: natural, fresh, seasonal products, a short menu and suppliers… who are neighbors!

Meats, vegetables, fish, cheeses, desserts, the Victor Hugo market located opposite offers everything you need.

The place has become so popular that the people of Toulouse have also made it a meeting point at aperitif time.

Better to book.

Daily menu at 16 € (starter / main course or main course / dessert).

Card: count 30-35 €.

L'Alouette, 24 place Victor Hugo, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 62 89 13 96.

THE HOTEL IN SIGHT

Hotel des Beaux-Arts

At the Hôtel des Beaux-Arts, view of the Garonne from the “Monsieur Patrick” room.

SDP

Les Beaux-Arts is a special case in the myriad of hotels in the center of Toulouse.

It all starts with the situation.

Located on the banks of the Garonne, opposite the Pont Neuf, at the end of the rue de Metz, it is the only one to offer a view of the Garonne from most of the 19 rooms.

This is not a detail given the beauty offered in particular by those on the 3rd floor, as well as number 42, called "Only you", whose terrace of ten square meters allows you to see far.

Second specificity: style.

Bought in 2015 by Marie Cros, a Montalbanese businesswoman, it has been completely renovated with a clear bias: here art should coexist with the constraints of the hotel industry.

Successful result.

Nine rooms have been completely entrusted to artists, most of them from street art movements.

From 120 € to 180 € per night, breakfast included.

Hôtel des Beaux Arts, 1, place du Pont Neuf, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 34 45 42 42.

DAY 1:

GREAT WALK IN THE HEART OF TOULOUSE

Morning

Assézat Hotel Georges Bemberg Foundation.

HapTag

The Pink City therefore takes its name… from its architecture.

In Toulouse, in the center in particular, everything is made of brick and tiles.

The first day will consist of a long stroll in the small streets and on the banks of the Garonne.

To do on foot or by bicycle depending on the mood.

"Vélô Toulouse", The two-wheel rental service set up by the town hall works very well (velo.toulouse.fr or 0 800 112 205) at reasonable prices.

It all starts at

for simplicity.

We will get lost in the shifts of small streets on the trail of the most beautiful mansions of the city.

In the 15th and 16th centuries, the pink city was the capital of the pastel trade and the dyeing of fabric.

Experts estimate that the economic benefits back then were 50 times greater than those of Airbus today.

Result: the construction of private mansions has taken off.

The route starts on

with one of the most beautiful: the

, enclosed in the buildings of the Pierre de Fermat high school, then direction rue des Changes to admire the

occupied by the Maison d'Occitanie .

Two hundred meters further on towards the Garonne, here is undoubtedly the most beautiful of all: the

, designed by Nicolas Bachelier, the star architect of the time.

The courtyard is generally accessible, take the opportunity to take an interest in the Académie des Jeux Floraux, located on the 1st floor, which has been awarding its literary prize since the 17th century.

A little-known French institution.

Continue towards the Garonne to turn left into

which leads to

de la Dalbade where a large number of mythical addresses are concentrated: the hotels of the Chevaliers-de-Saint-Jean-de-Jerusalem, Pierre, de Molinier, de Chalevet.

At the end of this long artery, the Place du Salin from where the rue du Languedoc starts and there, at 36, the Hôtel du Vieux Raisin.

Admire the porch and the courtyard.

It's time to take a break in the adjoining

to have a morning coffee and buy chocolate at Pillon, one of the best in town.

It is located at the very beginning of the

, almost opposite the tower of the sumptuous Dahus hotel (current headquarters of Crédit Agricole).

Then turn left rue Nazareth towards Place Saint-Etienne, left again to go up

where the hotels of Phomas-Montval and Castellane are located, but also the house of Conté, famous for its cheese puffs and others cakes !

Another well-deserved break as a starter before going to lunch.

Lunch break

A Toulouse institution since 130, the Au Père Louis establishment is at the heart of Esquirol.

MA News Toulouse

Two solutions from rue Croix-Baragnon.

Turn left and go discover

, rue des Pharaons.

It is THE great classic of grilled meat in Toulouse.

Rib of beef, duck breast, rib eye, steak ... Four generations of cooks succeed one another at the head of this house with large vaulted rooms with brick walls opened in 1972.

Lunch alternative:

, located rue des Tourneurs.

Turn right for that, leaving rue Croix-Baragnon.

Walking distance: four minutes.

It is one of the oldest wine bars in Toulouse: opened in 1889, it has been listed in the repertory of historical monuments since 1993. You can have lunch there simply and with taste.

Plates of cold cuts, meats, omelets, salads, delicious short menu.

Prefer the lower room to the upper one with a preference for the tables opposite the bar.

Count around € 30 in each of the two establishments.

Afternoon

The Saint-Pierre bridge, in the background, the Catalans bridge.

Yan Bernard-Guilbaud / Le Figaro

Meet at

, for a climb of a few hundred meters to the Pont Neuf which tilts onto the left bank.

But the idea is rather to stay on the right bank.

Turn left on Quai de Tounis.

The

flows slowly to the right of the walker who, along the way, admires the

and its seven arcades

better and better

.

When you get to the

, turn right all the way down to the river quays, which have become pedestrianized as far as the Saint-Pierre Bridge and even a little beyond.

Almost two kilometers of walk and an exceptional view first of the Pont Neuf then the Hôtel-Dieu, all-brick hospital classified as UNESCO Heritage, then of La Grave, another hospital with a magnificent Dome.

When you arrive at

, there are two solutions: either take the Pont de Pierre to stroll around the modern art museum,

, located opposite.

For nearly a thousand years, the Saint-Sernin basilica has been part of Toulouse's historical and religious heritage, of which it is also one of the emblems.

Yan Bernard-Guilbaud / Le Figaro

Either continue on the right bank, take the rue Valade and reach the

whose basilica was finished being renovated in 2020. The Queen of England, visiting Toulouse in 2004, passing by car, had found it curious that the church is planted in the middle of a parking lot.

Cars were indeed littered around.

It's finish.

The square is now a magnificent pedestrian area.

Return to Place du Capitole via rue des Lois and, the most courageous of the day's final visit: the

adjoining Place du Capitole, dating from the 14th century.

A medieval gem.

Evening

Toulouse comes alive from 7 p.m., like here at Place Saint-Georges at Café Maurice.

SDP

Toulouse comes alive from 7 pm with the traditional "aperitif" and the busiest and most lively places are in the center.

First, Place Saint-Georges, where a large number of establishments welcome a crazy crowd.

Our favorite is called

.

An aerial alternative not very far:

recently opened

has a rooftop terrace with a bar: it is worth the trip.

We can more classically settle in Place du Capitole, Au

or

or even another "moving corner" push up to Place Victor Hugo where the terraces are also crowded, including in winter!

We like the

.

Last option for the pre-dinner drink:

, place de la Trinité, still right in the center.

Favorite place for Toulouse youth.

The same one which, after dinner, will go to lock on the side of the Place Saint-Pierre, where the reference is called Chez

.

We drink pastis-au-Meter (17 glasses) at any time of the day and many other things.

The show is worth the trip, until a certain time ... In the meantime, you have to eat.

Ideas depending on the place of the first drink.

Chez

for Place Saint-Georges,

or

for Victor-Hugo.

From Place de la Trinité, go to rue Perchepinte and discover

, one of the local princes of the

rib.

DAY 2: EYES IN THE STARS

Morning

Discover the wonders of the Universe, the unique experience of the Cité de l'Espace.

City of Space / Laurent Garcia

The day will be extra-terrestrial.

And extraordinary.

It all starts with the

located on the Montaudran side.

You can get there in 23 minutes (metro then a little bus) from Place du Capitole according to Tisséo's route calculation.

The Cité de L'Espace is THE place in France where you can see and understand everything about space.

The conquest of space but also, and more generally, the solar system thanks to itineraries, permanent exhibitions, animation of a rare quality.

You can spend a day there like two hours.

Not to be missed: the new giant IMAX screen (over 400 m2) showing films in 4K, devoted to the mystery of asteroids at the moment, a Soyuz cabin in which you can sit, walk the tiny corridors of a station Mir, observe a reproduction of the LEM which allowed American astronauts to walk on the Moon but also "Perseverance", the small robot equipped with wheels which should set foot on the ground of Mars in the spring of 2021 if all goes well.

By this date, Thomas Pesquet will have returned to space with the Alpha mission.

A PC will follow him permanently from the City.

Before leaving, don't forget to say hello to the stone taken from the moon, displayed on the 1st floor of the exhibition building.

Its mere sight transports you ...

Lunch break

Ma Biche sur le Toit, panoramic restaurant, located on the 6th floor of Galeries Lafayette offers a breathtaking view of the Pink City.

SDP

Return to the center of Toulouse for lunch.

You might as well stay in the corner of the Place du Capitole where the

stands

, one of the best bet in this area.

Gratien, the boss, watches midday and evening seven days a week to the quality of the products and the service.

Tartare, grilled prawns, cassoulet, salads, risotto of the day (12 €), the local register of a good brasserie without surprise, comfortably installed.

Otherwise, there are more original three hundred meters away, on the roof of Galeries Lafayette where “

 ”

opened

.

A "trendy" restaurant, whose owners have proposed an association with the double starred chef Michel Sarran.

The room on the top floor overlooks Toulouse, which can be admired from the large terrace (tables in summer).

The address turns out to be a real attraction and does not disappoint when it comes to dining.

Generous menu (9 starters, 12 main courses, 9 desserts).

Dish of the day: 17 €.

Count 30 € à la carte.

Three hundred meters further on towards Boulevard de Strasbourg is one of Toulouse's institutions: the restaurant

.

Unique menu: salad with nuts, the famous steak in sauce (secret recipe since 1959) and dessert (optional), all for less than twenty euros.

The only drawback here: the price of success: a queue at noon.

Single menu: € 19.50.

Afternoon

The Aéroscopia museum was inaugurated in 2015. A.Späni

We stay in the air.

On the way to the north of the city, the sky, the history of aviation, or even a deep dive into the heart of an exceptional aeronautical adventure, that of

, and of aeronautics more generally, which made known Toulouse worldwide (and greatly contributed to its economic success).

It is next to Blagnac airport.

A metro then a bus takes you there in thirty-five minutes (metro line A then tram, line 1) from Place du Capitole.

There, three stages.

First, the

.

Inaugurated in 2015, it is a double digest: of the history of French aeronautics told in large frescoes from the start of the visit, and of the incredible adventure of Concorde and Airbus both designed, assembled in Toulouse.

The avenue leading to the museum was not named André Turcat by chance, he was the test pilot of the Concorde, a copy of which is on display at Aéroscopia, such as a Mirage III, an Airbus A300 ... About thirty aircraft in everything retraces the heyday of aviation, as well as events such as the Concorde flight simulator on which the student pilots trained.

Exciting.

Once this visit is over, cross the street to discover the

de Toulouse area.

An association created in 1980 with the aim of restoring the old glories of aeronautics.

More than forty planes are parked in the open air, including a Caravel that belonged to Emperor Bokassa, or a fictitiously armed Mirage IV.

The association is run by enthusiasts.

The highlight for the end (if there is time): the visit of the Airbus assembly lines, the test tracks.

Gigantic.

The factory opens its doors every week.

Address Book

RESTAURANTS

Restaurant L'Hédone where the talented Balthazar Gonzalez won his first star a few months ago, at only 28 years old, one year after being elected "Young talent" by Gault & Millau.

Hedone / Photo press

Brasserie de l'Opéra, 1, place du Capitole, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 61 21 37 03.

Ma Biche sur le toit, 4-8 rue du Lieutenant-Colonel Pelissier, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 31 61 56 19.

L'Entrecôte, 15, boulevard de Strasbourg, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 61 21 87 18 (no reservation).

L'Alouette, 24 place Victor Hugo, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 62 89 13 96.

Le J'Go, 16 place Victor Hugo, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 61 23 02 03.

Chez Émile, 13 place Saint-Georges, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 61 21 05 56.

Barbaque, 1, rue Perchepinte, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 32 60 81 63.

La Braisière, 43, rue des Pharaons, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 61 52 37 13.

At Père Louis, 45, rue des Tourneurs, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 61 21 33 45. (lunch only).

La Tantina, 59, avenue de Saint-Exupéry, 31400 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 61 54 59 59.

The best seafood ...

Chez Jeannot, 1, rue Bayard, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 61 62 43 46.

... and the great tables

Michel Sarran: an institution awarded 2 Michelin stars.

21, boulevard Armand Duportal, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 61 12 32 32.

Hedone: in the kitchen Balthazar Gonzalez, the rising chef, 1 Michelin star obtained in 2020. 2, impasse Saint-Félix, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 82 74 60 55.

The balance: Jean-Baptiste Rivière (and Justine), the couple who goes up close to Toulouse.

10 place de la Liberation, 31130 Balma.

Phone.

: 05 61 45 70 43.

GO OUT, DRINK A GLASS

The rooftop of Mama Shelter Toulouse, on Boulevard Lazare Carnot.

Mama Shelter / Photo press

Aperitif:

Café Maurice, 8 place Saint-Georges, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 61 21 76 27.

Mama Shelter Toulouse, 54, boulevard Lazare Carnot, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 31 50 50 05.

Le Bibent, 5 place du Capitole, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 06 48 71 73 65.

Grand Café Le Florida, 12 place du Capitole, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 61 23 94 61.

Le Petit San Seb, 6, rue du Rempart-Villeneuve, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 61 62 00 01.

Chez Mamie, 10 place de la Trinité, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 31 22 50 30.

Chez Tonton, 16 place Saint-Pierre, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 61 21 89 54.

The black market, 38 place des Carmes, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 62 17 96 39.

And also for music and concerts ...

Le Saint des Seins, 5 place Saint-Pierre, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 61 22 11 39.

Le Bikini, Canal Technological Park, rue Théodore Monod, 31520 Ramonville-Saint-Agne.

Phone.

: 05 62 24 09 50.

TO HAVE

Cité de l'Espace, Avenue Jean Gonord, 31500 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 67 22 23 24. Prices: from € 21.50 per adult.

Children (5 to 18 years old): € 16.

Aeroscopia Museum, 1 Allée André Turcat, 31700 Blagnac.

Phone.

: 05 34 39 42 00. Price: 14 € per adult.

Children: 11 €.

Let's visit Airbus - Manatour.

Price: € 15.5 (reduced: € 13).

Ailes Anciennes Toulouse, Allée André Turcat, 31700 Blagnac.

Phone.

: 05 62 13 78 10. Price: 6 €.

WHERE TO SLEEP

Opposite the Pont Neuf, at the end of the rue de Metz, the Hôtel des Beaux-Arts is the only one to offer a view of the Garonne.

SDP

Hôtel des Beaux-Arts, 1 place du Pont Neuf, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 34 45 42 42.

Mama Shelter Toulouse, 54, boulevard Lazare Carnot, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 31 50 50 05.

To read also: The Mama Shelter in Toulouse, the expert opinion of

Grand Hôtel de l'Opéra Toulouse, 1 place du Capitole, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 61 21 82 66.

Le Grand Balcon, 8, rue Romiguières, 31000 Toulouse.

Phone.

: 05 34 25 44 09.