It is the second largest city in Sweden and yet the great unknown.
Small, friendly and coquettish, Gothenburg has nothing to envy Stockholm.
In 1621, King Gustav II Adolfo raised his walls after being demolished by the Danes.
It built its canals and planned the port that would make it the largest port city not only in Sweden, but in all of Scandinavia.
Surrounded by water, parks and green spaces, today it is a delight of the city, a university center and one of the most sustainable destinations in the world.
Reasons why Lonely Planet has just chosen it as the best city break for next year in its Best in Travel 2021.
enlarge photo The statue of Poseidon in Gothenburg's Götaplatsen.
Alamy
9.30 Breakfast in style
Do we start big?
Having breakfast in one of the
Da Matteo places
is synonymous with great atmosphere and good pastries, one of the weaknesses of the Swedes, so you have to arrive hungry and without haste to choose calmly between all the buns, cakes and sandwiches that they prepare at diary.
The most mythical is in the
Magasinsgatan square (1)
, one of the liveliest.
That's where the street of the same name was born, full of shops and cafes and with a window that invites you to enter any of its establishments, such as the florist and decoration store
Floramor & Krukatös
or the clothing
store
, and much more,
Grandpa
.
enlarge photo COVA FDEZ.
11.00 A neighborhood outside the walls
It has never been the scene of any battle, but the fortification of
Skansen Kronan (2)
has always been surrounded by 23 guns.
Construction began at the end of the 17th century thanks to the help of the crown
(kronan,
in Swedish), in the middle of the 19th it was used as a prison and at the beginning of the 20th it was converted into a military museum.
Now this stone bastion topped with the unmistakable golden crown is a private place from which to enjoy good views of the city.
In addition, it is in the Haga neighborhood, the first one built outside the walls.
The classic Gothenburg houses that are still preserved, with the first floor of brick and the rest of wood, together with their cobbled and pedestrian streets, give it that characteristic bohemian air.
Strolling through here is a pleasure that invites you to slow down and enter the cafes and shops that crowd its streets, especially the main one,
Haga Nygata (3)
.
13.00 Lunch for
gourmets
Fish and seafood are part of the DNA of this city.
For a brutal gastronomic experience, go to
Fish Church
(Feskekôrka, in Swedish)
(4)
, an old Gothic church from 1874 that today is a fish market with stalls to taste fish and seafood of the day.
If you like markets, drop by
The Market Hall (5)
, the largest in Gothenburg with an infinity of
delicatessens.
Of course, due to covid-19, both are temporarily closed.
As an alternative,
Sjöbaren
, a restaurant with a high quality raw material always prepared with an exquisite modern touch.
enlarge photo The Konstmuseum in Gothenburg houses the best collection of 19th century Scandinavian art, but works do not come from any European royal house, but from donations from individuals.
getty images
15.00 Museums for everyone
Götaplatsen (6)
is the most emblematic square, not only because the unmistakable statue of Poseidon stands there, but also because it houses the Municipal Theater, the Concert Hall (and headquarters of the Gothenburg Symphony Orchestra) and the
Museum of Bellas Artes or Konstmuseum (7)
, a highly recommended art gallery with
picassos, rembrandts or monets
.
From here
Kungsportsavenyn (8)
, the main boulevard built in the middle of the 19th century
, extends
to the old moat at the foot of the old fortified walls of the city.
Nothing remains of those defensive walls.
The cultural offer is extensive and covers all tastes:
Konsthall (9)
, for lovers of contemporary art;
the
Natural History Museum (10)
, in the great
Slottsskogen Park (11)
, for those who go with children or want to admire a large collection of taxidermy;
the
Maritime (12)
, for lovers of the sea, or the
Volvo Museum (13)
, for motor enthusiasts.
This is where the car brand was born, displaying true jewels from another era.
enlarge photo A terrace on the Stora Hamnkanalen in Gothenburg (Sweden) Alamy
17.30
Fika,
a Swedish tradition
Fika
is the concept that best defines Swedish culture.
An almost obligatory stop to have a coffee and something sweet once, twice or countless times a day.
It can be done alone or accompanied;
at home, at work or in a park;
in the morning or in the afternoon, but it must always be done, without exception, slowly and enjoying the moment.
That is a good
fika
.
Anywhere is good for this sweet break (take advantage of it and try the typical
kanelbulle
or cinnamon roll), but
Brogyllen (14)
or the
Kafé Magasinet stand out
, in the Långgatorna neighborhood, a high point of bars and restaurants.
18.30 Port Ode
Not inconsiderable is the
Gothenburg Opera (15)
.
Located in the port, it is an ode to the sea, the docks, its cranes and the ships.
This immense architectural construction of the nineties is inspired by all these elements, which is also the most important cultural investment in recent years.
Also important is the nearby
Stora Hamnkanalen (16)
, or the great canal jetty, built in 1844 and from where you can see a picturesque perspective of the city: a string of old stone buildings that flank the Göta river, crossed by magnificent bridges.
Nearby, next to the train station, is the
Clarion Hotel Post (17)
, an ancient stone building from 1920 that was once the post office (great for its
brunch
on weekends).
21.00 The best farewell
The best way to get around Gothenburg is to go on foot, by bike or by tram.
Some old ones from the sixties still circulate through its streets, whose blue and white aesthetics maintain the modern ones.
Get on one of them to say goodbye to the city at
Toso (18)
, an Asian restaurant where you can enjoy Japanese cuisine that some people probably didn't know existed.
Sublime.
Like their cocktails, perfect for before or after dinner if you don't feel like moving elsewhere.
Do you like the plan for dinner and drinks in one place?
Take a look at Yaki-Da
(19)
, a multi-storey establishment with a restaurant, bar, café and nightclub.
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