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Walter Chiapponi: "The Tod's moccasin will never be out of date"


Tradition, eco-responsibility, luxury, sensuality craftsmanship: in five points, the creative director delivers his vision of the Italian brand. Her first pieces, male and female, have just arrived in stores.

Walter Chiapponi was unlucky.

Tod's Creative Director presented his first collection last February during Milan Fashion Week.

Or, a few days before the world folds in on itself, plunged into an unprecedented crisis.

Said collection was to be marketed in November ... But the shops remained closed.

Two trials that the Milanese endures with a smile.

In Asia, where life has resumed its course, its winter locker room in faded and earthy colors, unabashedly luxury is unanimous and its winter locker room in faded and earthy colors, infused with the 1970s - a first for the elegant as a devil.

He hopes to meet the same enthusiasm in Paris, where the stores are just reopening their doors.

During a live Zoom of his house, the designer delivers his vision, his taste and his projects.

Walter Chiapponi, the new creative director of Tod's whose first collection has just arrived in store.



- In short, what do you want to bring to Tod's?




A topical notion in these troubled times, important for Tod's.

I would like to inject more femininity and relaxation into the attitude.

I don't like the word “cool” but, despite everything, it defines quite well what I would like to bring.

The men's wardrobe, too, deserves to be more flexible, softer, more suited to everyday life.

There is no longer any question of being too dressed up.

I would like to give reassurance to the women and men who come to dress with us, a form of well-being to wear our clothes.

The Italian style no longer really exists, except in an idea of ​​colors and materials more flamboyant than in other fashion capitals, but it's a way of being and of appearing to which I adhere .

Has the crisis changed your way of thinking and designing your collections?

I define myself as a dreamer and in this sense, I try to get rid of the gloom surrounding when I draw.

I am currently working on the clothes and accessories that will be sold in the spring, I want to be optimistic and that they reflect my energy.

If you had asked me the question a few months ago, I would have answered you differently.

I counted on a desire for a fashion designed to stay at home.

Now it's the other way around, personally I'm getting ready, I happily wear suits, cashmere sweaters and well-polished shoes.

We have had our dose of pajamas and jogging, we now need clothes to please ourselves and others, to relive in society.

We must love each other more.

Sometimes in the many meetings we do through Zoom, I see a tendency to let go.

By letting go, we end up withering away.

A look from Walter Chiapponi's Fall / Winter 2020 show for Tod's Tod's

What is the role of fashion today?

Fashion has always been the reflection of its time.

In my opinion, it should be less focused on the present, more focused on the future.

I'm talking about the future not only through the clothes that we will want to wear, rather in our attitude, our way of thinking and designing fashion, the ecological issues that we are all facing.

We need to think about all of this, be more inclusive.

I am very proud of the work of my friends at Gucci who manage to make all women and men beautiful.

At Tod's, it may seem less obvious as the brand is traditionally more masculine but I make sure to include diverse physique.

Beauty is not everything, I like strong personalities.

What are the eco-responsible approaches taken by Tod's?

It's a big job!

We start with ready-to-wear, using as many recycled materials as possible, including the cashmere in our sweaters, and minimizing leather creations - personally, I prefer a beautiful woolen cloth coat than a leather jacket.

We are using more and more natural fibers and less polluting treatments.

We recycle leftover shoe leather.

We make sure we waste less, throw away less.

All this takes time in a house the size of Tod's since recycled and organic materials are often available in insufficient quantities given the size of our productions.

Nobody can, overnight, claim to be irreproachable in terms of ecology, but it is a priority.

Multicolored suede basket for women, 430 euros, Tod's Tod's

What is your definition of luxury?

In my opinion, it is no longer a question of creative madness, of outbidding effects such as embroidery, crystals, synthetic colors, logos.

Luxury is the return to traditions, the heritage of a house and finding the best way to make them current by playing with the intensity of a palette and beautiful materials.

I like to work on shapes and volumes in their purity, raw but magnificent finishes.

Take the example of the Gommino, our original and iconic moccasin: it will never be out of date.

It embodies comfortable, functional luxury and it will never look



It is impossible to fashion a Gommino out of mediocre quality leather, it demands the finest hides for the good reason that its simplicity does not forgive anything.

This is luxury for me: a product well made by craftsmen.

Do you work hand in hand with the artisans?

Absolutely, it's one of the parts of my job that I appreciate the most.

Italian artisans have an opinion on everything and they do not hesitate to share it.

Collaborating with them is difficult and awesome at the same time.

I learn a lot from them.

They have a particular hand, very light, paying particular attention to finishes and details.

I'm not saying they're more gifted than the others, but they have a particular sensitivity, a way of approaching color too.

They are passionate and we get along well because I am too.

Source: lefigaro

All news articles on 2020-12-06

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