Watch the presentation video of the new Fall Winter 2021 collection by Paul Smith and you will walk through the last fifty years of British subcultures in just over five minutes.
We come across the Harrington-type jacket, originally designed for the practice of golf and then recovered by
mods
and the first generation of
skinheads,
which also inspire the oversized cuffs of denim pants, worn with a pleat on the front like "Sta Perst "
.
The four-button tartan costumes are reminiscent of Terry Hall's stage ones from the Specials and those worn around town by his fans.
The double-breasted coats borrow from the traditional trench coat, emblematic of the English men's wardrobe, those with straight buttons either from the Scottish model called balmacaan, or from the
car coat
invented for car drivers at the beginning of the 20th century which the revival
mod
icon loved.
1980s Paul Weller.
The striped mohair sweaters are reminiscent of those loved by Sex Pistols singer Johnny Rotten.
The shape of the Harrington jacket is repeated, worn with a cap reminiscent of the “deer hunter” model dear to Sherlock Holmes and Paul Smith moccasins.
"
Some references are obviously nostalgic, but without being treated too literally
," said Sir Paul Smith over the phone a few minutes before revealing his film.
The year 2020, the fiftieth anniversary of my brand, was an opportunity for me to look back on my career, my influences, and on British culture
.
The way we use materials breathes new life into these famous silhouettes. "
Obviously, Paul Smith asserts his science of pattern, of which he has made a true signature over the years.
We therefore find superb tartans, revisited cashmere, floral prints with psychedelic accents and endless stripes, always there to energize a room (like a parka) or a classic ensemble.
The shoes take the shape of the moccasin, offered on a crepe sole, and of the Wallabee dear to the
harsh
Jamaican
boys
.
The skimpy costumes are reminiscent of those of Paul Smith mods
In video, the Briton uses the codes of the classic fashion show.
One more nostalgic element?
“
I would have liked to march, because that's what I've always done.
But at the same time, the video helps to show more details.
The expectation of the public around our presentation is stimulating: for several days, our customers have been contacting us to tell us about it.
It's a different excitement than a parade, but it's important to ask questions about this format.
Is it still relevant?
Does it correspond to the desires of the new generations concerned about the environment?
The period we are going through is a break, and in the future, once the virus is defeated, I hope that we can each make our own choices on the most suitable way of presenting the collections.
"
The jeans are worn with high, Skinhead-style cuffs and pleats on the front, reminiscent of the “Sta Perst” mods.
Paul smith
In the meantime, one thing is certain: while many designers are wondering how we will dress tomorrow, Paul Smith offers a wardrobe anchored in reality, where every man will find pieces he can imagine himself wearing.
Is this not the main thing?
