Rick Owens isn't fashion for everyone.
In his collections, often presented drum beating against a background of aggressive techno, we find spectacular clothes, silhouettes draped in black and pieces that blur the boundaries of the genre and expose the skin, requiring for the wearer a good dose of confidence. .
This die-hardness seduces his followers (including Twitter CEO Jack Dorsey, whose photos in Owens have been around social media recently) and has made him a creator as cult as it is divisive.
This season, in a video that showed silhouettes parading among passers-by on Venice Lido, the American is introducing more accessible pieces, bringing his fashion back to the real world.
First, there is Japanese denim made in the rules of the art, hooded shearling coats, clothing with masks and gloves integrated to adapt to the time.
Above all, there's a new collaboration with Converse, for a shoe inspired by those of the Ramones (one of Rick Owens' favorite bands, according to the intent note) that will appeal to fans and a new audience alike.
Why this turnaround?
By offering an intense vision, I was able to make certain observers feel excluded or rejected,
explains the creator in an e-mail written in all caps, shortly after the broadcast, on January 21, of his presentation video.
I thought I might try to invite more people into my world.
Ironically, this will infuriate an audience that thought they had me all to themselves.
Jackets with OWENSCORP gloves and goggles
For his usual audience, Owens still offers the spectacular pieces that make his success.
Leather suits are worn very close to the body.
The models wear white pentagram briefs, combined with thigh high boots with a fur platform.
Recycled cashmere sweaters can be worn with the arms inside, like a camisole.
The shoulders of the coats and blazers are oversized, reminiscent of a steroid version of the Armani costume from the 1980s, emblematic of a certain vision of power.
The bombers are short.
A choice which, according to the creator, aims to "
mock male conservatism."
Japanese denim and converse Rick Owens, worn with a quilted bomber jacket and OWENSCORP mask
For this season, Rick Owens wanted to tackle the theme of male aggressiveness, his in mind.
I struggle to accept and control my own aggressive impulses, impulses which have helped me to succeed but also to shame me, aggressive impulses which propel me but which I also want to repress
, justifies the creator, whose inspiration is also came from the news, especially American, and its violence.
I cannot make a presentation without acknowledging the current events and the challenges we all face and deal with.
It would insult the public with whom I hope to be honest. ”