Are the Parisian museums closed? Go to the church to discover masterpieces

In the absence of accessible museums in this period of Covid, we would have to resign ourselves to not being able to admire today in Paris works by Tintoretto, Rubens, Delacroix or sculptures by contemporary artists?

Nay!

It is enough to fall back on places of worship which contain real treasures too often unknown to art lovers.

The 22nd edition of the “Guide to Church Visits”, recently released, lists these works to be discovered by pushing the door of Parisian churches and temples.

The proof by four examples.

“The pilgrims of Emmaus” by Rubens, in Saint-Eustache

The restoration of this painting by Rubens, “The pilgrims of Emmaus”, cost 28,300 euros.

LP / Arnaud Journois  

The canvas has just been restored, with 18 months of work and 28,300 euros financed by the Avenir du patrimoine foundation in Paris, the City having taken charge of the preliminary studies.

Exhibited in the chapel of Saint-Pierre the exorcist, "it is a youthful work painted by Rubens in 1611 on his return from Italy in the style of Caravaggio", specifies Yves Trocheris, parish priest of the great church of Les Halles.

“Napoleonic capture, this painting arrived from Munich at the beginning of the 19th century.

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Inspired by the Gospel of Saint Luke, the scene shows the precise moment when the two disciples, in a movement of retreat which betrays their amazement, recognize Christ by the way he breaks bread, and fix him intently with their gaze.

In the background, the old servant and the young servant look elsewhere.

In ecstasy, Christ has his eyes turned towards the sky, he no longer sees them ... "He disappeared before them", concludes Saint Luke.

"La Pietà" by Delacroix, in Saint-Denys du Saint-Sacrement

Eugène Delacroix produced “La Pietà” in 1844. LP / Arnaud Journois  

Qualified as a “masterpiece that leaves a deep groove of melancholy in the mind” by Baudelaire, “La Pietà”, also called “Deposition from the cross”, produced by Eugène Delacroix in 1844, is exhibited in the Sainte-Chapelle. Geneviève (the first on entering, on the right).

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Restored three years ago by the City of Paris which allocated a budget of 158,253 euros to it, this canvas, painted in oil and wax on plaster on a commission from the Comte de Rambuteau, then prefect of Paris, represents the body of Christ just placed from the cross, lying on the knees of the weeping Virgin Mary, surrounded by the disciples dressed in red.

The stained glass windows of the seven sacraments of Bazaine, in Saint-Séverin

The stained-glass windows of the seven sacraments, by Jean Bazaine, date from 1966. LP / Philippe Baverel  

A masterpiece of the flamboyant Gothic style of the 15th century, the choir of the Saint-Séverin church, whose bell tower dates from the 13th century, contains this little-known treasure created in 1966 by the painter Jean Bazaine.

Symbolizing the seven sacraments, these abstract stained-glass windows that magnify the Gothic windows are intended to "plunge us once again into the adventure of the supernatural", said the author.

Beyond the extraordinary shimmering of the colors that illuminate the choir under the effect of the sun's rays, the remarkable harmony of the place is due to the successful dialogue established, five centuries apart, between the contemporary stained glass windows and the forest of columns of the ambulatory (semi-circular gallery which surrounds the back of the choir), covered with arches of palm trees.

Alquin's “Cross of Hope”, at Notre-Dame d'Espérance

"La Croix d'Espérance" by Nicolas Alquin can be seen at Notre-Dame d'Espérance, in the Bastille district.

LP / Philippe Baverel  

Consecrated by Cardinal Jean-Marie Lustiger on December 14, 1997 in the Bastille district, instead of a church erected in 1930 and become too dilapidated, Notre-Dame d'Esperance, whose facade combines glass and polished concrete, is the work of architect Bruno Legrand.

In the choir bathed in light thanks to the glass roof which overhangs it, dominates the Cross of Hope by Nicolas Alquin.

As a tribute to the cabinetmakers of this working-class neighborhood, the artist sculpted a magnificent 18th century oak beam on which, as a horizontal cross member, he painted a gold square, symbol of the resurrection.

In front of the cross, the marble altar designed by François Cante-Pacos stands out, while also sober: the rectangular Eucharistic table is placed on a fractured sphere symbolizing the division of the world.

A free guide to discover them

Printed in 60,000 copies, the “Guide to Church Visits” is available free of charge in places of worship and district town halls.

DR  

The French capital has a total of 112 churches and temples.

Almost 40,000 works of art are listed there.

Works that are partially subject to regular restorations, provided by specialists, under the control of the Conservation of Religious and Civil Works of Art (COARC) of the City of Paris and of Historical Monuments.

“Paris is not Rome, but we also have plenty of churches to visit,” smiles François Drouin, president of the Art, culture and faith Paris association, which has 350 members.

Created in 1989 at the initiative of Cardinal Jean-Marie Lustiger to highlight the religious heritage and promote dialogue with contemporary artists, the structure has just published the 22nd edition of the "Guide to church visits", printed at 60,000 copies and available free of charge in places of worship and district town halls.

Precious viaticum for all those who have forgotten the characters of the Bible who have inspired artists of all times or who would be intimidated by the history of art!

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Funded by the Heritage Foundation and the City of Paris, this very practical 62-page booklet, bilingual French-English, presents churches and temples classified by arrondissement with, for each, a very concise text briefly mentioning the history of the place and the remarkable works it houses.

Not to mention the address, opening hours and some useful information for buildings organizing guided tours (days and hours, phone number, email address, etc.).

Since 2018, the “The stones speak” application, which recorded 13,000 connections in 2020, also gives everyone free access to an audio-guided tour.

All you need to do is scan a QR code in the guidebook or in one of the 40 churches equipped with this device using a mobile phone to listen to commentaries, up to a minute and a half, on architecture. , works, unusual stories ...