The broadcast of the Prada fashion show, yesterday at 2 p.m., was followed on the site and social networks by a conversation by screens interposed between the pair Miuccia Prada-Raf Simons and the designer Marc Jacobs, the musician Richie Hawtin (who signs the BO of the show under his stage name, Plastikman), architect Rem Koolhaas, director Lee Daniels and actress and model Hunter Schafer.
To the question: "
What is, for you, the essence of Prada?"
Jacobs replies: "
Mrs. Prada!"
Because it's more than an aesthetic or a career story.
It's a way of being, an eye, a gesture, a style.
Like when you watch a movie and you know if it's a Rossellini or a Visconti.
"And Koolhaas (who this time again created the crazy architecture of the parade) adds, not without humor:"
For me, it is above all his way of not loving.
I've never seen someone “dislikes” so deeply, exploring every nook and cranny of what they don't like
.
""
It is true!
Raf Simons can't help but confirm.
To read also: Meeting with Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons: For whom do we create?
That is the question
Without reducing the charisma of this house to mood swings, there is this point of view at Prada.
To love, not to love, sometimes to make mistakes but to refuse membership out of intellectual laziness, out of cultural complacency.
Next winter is a case in point.
One of her starting points is "to
introduce elegance into reality, and vice versa
", explains the Milanese designer, which takes place not without friction, without pushing the attitude to its limits.
The (not so) classic pieces (suit, cocoon coat, sky blue shirt) meet under-sweaters and sticky boots with kinetic patterns, the faux mink stoles reveal their fuchsia sequins lining like geodes covered with crystals, the jumpsuits in jacquard knit echoes the parkas lined with synthetic fur and the magnificent long jersey dresses from the 1920s…
Seen from above of the film Prada made in the architecture of Rem Koolhaas Prada
Like the entire industry, the duo at work at Prada is questioning the concept of comfort already present before the crisis and now central.
But in their own way, in tension, the collection reflecting this strange tension between its design made in a confined world and its release in stores next fall where we should be able to go out, meet, free bodies and deconfin minds. .
Ms. Prada is more than an aesthetic or a career story.
It's a way of being, an eye, a gesture, a style. "
Marc Jacobs
It is this moment between two that recounts the parade in the maze of rooms of Rem Koolhaas.
The girls seem to float in this space-time, holding their stoles against their breasts with a feminine gesture.
"
It's a gesture that I have often seen on Prada fashion shows
," explains Raf Simons, who, for twenty years, as a fan, has attended the brand's shows.
It expresses an elegance inherited from a distant past and at the same time a protection.
"