T
he awards ceremonies terrify me
, explained this weekend, on the occasion of the Golden Globes, the British actress Olivia Colman, nominated for the film by Florian Zeller
The Father
and the Netflix series
The Crown
.
To face this moment, I need to feel confident in my outfit.
And this jacket synthesizes simplicity and sophistication, the quintessence of Armani Privé
(the couture collection of Giorgio Armani, Editor's note).
"
If, for more than forty years, the couturier has been present in major cinema events, this time it is not by treading (via his tuxedos and evening dresses) on the red carpets, but, on the occasion of these Virtual Golden Globes, behind a screen.
Same cause, same effects for its fall-winter 2021-22 show broadcast from Italy this Saturday, as part of an exclusively digital Fashion Week.
Giorgio Armani's ultra-femininity at the heart of his winter 2022 collection. Giorgio Armani
In the center of the podium where the male and female models follow one another, a reproduction of the sculpture made by the Italian Marcantonio Raimondi Malerba for the couturier's apartments in Milan.
The presence of this flashy green gorilla surprises, but beyond the interest of the designer for the endangered species it aims to illustrate the role that nature plays in the Armani universe.
Just like the palette of aquatic and plant colors contrasted with nocturnal shades, black, midnight blue, gray between dog and wolf ... Next winter will give pride of place to refined pieces such as velvet sarong pants, dresses in guipure embroidered with azure flowers, the blouses with ruffles in silver thread, the suits printed with the New Wave aesthetic, the sequined jackets with impressionist effects, the shirt-dresses with lavender studded with shine ... Under an origami waistcoat, there is a T-shirt bearing the effigy of young Armani.
What if, in the end, the star was him?
"I want to create, for next winter, a real but desirable wardrobe for all those who will want to go out"
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino
If Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino also dressed the Golden Globes (especially the very chic Michelle Pfeiffer), his commitment to culture was reflected, Monday, in an ambitious parade shot on the stage of the Piccolo Teatro di Milano - a reopening as transgressive as provisional which he describes as
“punk, almost”.
A way for the Roman house to support this institution closed since the start of the pandemic, which takes the opportunity to digitally archive the 10,000 pieces from its famous workshop - they will thus be accessible to couturiers, costume designers, researchers and theater enthusiasts. .
To the sound of the live song of the young Englishwoman Cosima (signing a moving version of
Nothing Compares 2 U
), the models' booth walks through the rows of desperately empty red armchairs, before joining the boards, forming a black and white painting.
“
I like to twist the perception of colors.
You can play with the palette in a subversive way
, explains Pierpaolo Piccioli, shortly after his collection was released online.
For me, black and white is optimism, the hope of returning to the streets.
I want to create, for next winter, a real but desirable wardrobe for all those who will want to go out.
"
Final painting of the Valentino parade, on the stage of the Piccolo Teatro di Milano.
Valentino
The silhouette is cropped a la Mary Quant, oversized Italian collars flaunt their starch on dark structured jackets, girls' retro blouses and skater skirts hint at the see-through knits of a boy who looks like Johnny Rotten clean on him.
The delicate sheer lace blouses are worn with chunky military-style boots.
While kinetic patterns, harlequin diamonds, sailor stripes punctuate these pieces of infinite luxury, which are only punky with the nails of the accessories, distinctive signs of the fashion house.
"What interests us since our beginnings, in 1984, is to be able to dialogue with young people, to understand their needs, their dreams, their aspirations"
Domenico Dolce
For its spring-summer 2021 (currently in store), the Dolce & Gabbana were inspired by their 1993 “Patchwork” show, embodied at the time by the tops Carla Bruni, Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford.
This time again, through their collection revealed yesterday afternoon, they draw the thread of the 1990s, the favorite decade of generation Z (which she barely knew since born after 1997).
"What interests us since our beginnings, in 1984, is to be able to dialogue with young people, to understand their needs, their dreams, their aspirations"
, explains Domenico Dolce, the day before, during a press conference.
“However, they keep asking us: 'We would like to wear clothes from the 1990s,'
adds Stefano Gabbana.
For us, it's a shock to think about it because thirty years have already passed! ”
And the first to repeat:
"In this new collection, we have reinterpreted our archives: the corsets that Prince used in
Cream
, the bodysuits of Madonna, the bra encrusted with stones and diamonds by Linda Evangelista."
The models of the Dolce & Gabbana show accompanied by their robots carrying their bags.
Monica Feudi
However, the literal homage to the label's golden age, MTV music videos and supermodels ends there.
Far from being backward-looking, the Dolce & Gabbana are looking to the future by collaborating with the Istituto Italiano di Tecnologia, symbol of Italian excellence in the field of robotics and artificial intelligence.
Alongside the technicolor-haired girls in black lingerie minidresses, patent or metallic leather pants, pixelated maxi-puffers, anti-Covid visors on their heads and stilettos or punks on their feet, humanoid robots present the it-bags of the season.
“This collection is a way to start a new chapter in Dolce & Gabbana history,”
they conclude.
"Jimi Hendrix and Rudolf Nureyev represent, in my eyes, freedom and elegance"
Veronica etro
Veronica Etro, the artistic director of the women's collections of the family house, is inspired by two men, namely Jimi Hendrix and Rudolf Nureyev, whose Gimmo Etro, her father and founder of the brand, collects stage costumes and outfits from city.
“The starting point of this collection was the notion of freedom, which in our time inevitably misses us.
These artists represent, in my eyes, freedom and elegance. ”
The paisley or paisley pattern is emblematic of the Etro Alberto Maddaloni house
Next winter also cultivates a scent of pragmatism: exit, or almost, the gypsy woman in a dress with
paisley
or
paisley
patterns
,
emblematic of the brand.
The charm of the bohemian spirit gives way to a wardrobe tailored for everyday life, from ordinary black leggings to logo sweatshirts, flowing pants in neutral colors or even olive green cable sweaters that lack Veronica's usual whimsy. Etro.
Fortunately, she makes up for it on the printed boxing shorts, wrap-around bathrobes and jubilant patchwork coats.