British Invasion
at Paris Fashion Week: on the occasion of his very first women's show in the capital, Paul Smith brings up to date the codes of the counter-cultures of the 1960s and 1970s across the Channel, the mods, the Northern Soul (this current of clubs in the north of England where we listened to Motown records), punks ...
Read also: Paul Smith's album: 50 years in the service of fashion
Tartan jackets are worn with plaid skirt and Paul Smith moccasins
Paisley-patterned long dresses, Swinging London-inspired hourglass coats and plaid skirts sit alongside tartan four-button suits inspired by the ska movement from Jamaica.
"
I used the same references and materials as in the men's winter 2021-2022 collection: creating in confinement forces you to be efficient and waste as little as possible
", explains the designer on the phone.
The very "Swinging London" line and colors of the Paul Smith collection Paul Smith
Playing with gender confusion, “his wife” wears the suit, the moccasin and even the tie.
“
We launched a feminine line about twenty years ago, because Grace Coddington (
great stylist of
US Vogue,
Editor's note
) put our male costumes on the supermodels of the time.
We started designing skirts only five or six years ago!
This season, we wanted to offer a cool, sexy, elegant silhouette.
“And if his women's ready-to-wear only represents 15% of sales, his customers are, according to him, very loyal.
“
We read a lot that the costume is falling into disuse.
But our order books for next winter are full of them!
"