For a long time, Josef Hartl has built an excellent reputation for himself with his Türkenfelder Gasthaus “Zum Unterwirt” beyond the local and district boundaries.
Now his level of awareness could increase even further - because of a cookbook.
Türkenfeld -
Alongside other well-known chefs, Josef Hartl and his best recipes are presented in a new cookbook that was initiated by the Bavarian Ministry of Agriculture, among others.
"The young Bavarian cuisine - of tradition and new influences" comes from the pen of the renowned food journalist and photographer Thomas Ruhl.
He wants to show that there are innovative young chefs who are exemplary in transferring the traditional into a new era.
And that this development represents more of an evolution than a revolution, because Bavarian cuisine has always absorbed foreign influences.
The dumplings, which are considered to be traditionally Bavarian, are just one example - they originally come from Bohemia.
The fact that the book is not only about star cuisine and the gourmet scene, but also about the topic of pub culture and its change, is entirely to Hartl's taste.
His own successful concept is based on combining both - traditional cuisine and fine dining.
The 37-year-old calls it “Bavarian cuisine with a kick”.
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Matjes from Ammersee-Renke with apple and mustard salad, herbal cream capers and potato fritters.
© Private
Book author Thomas Ruhl enthuses that Hartl is far from offering his guests a “fusion kitchen”, but that he does serve himself “in the international world of flavors”.
In addition to the milk sausage and the Braumeisterschnitzel, there is also the Bavarian lamb rump with curry humus and aubergine grösti.
A network of regional producers is important to the Türkenfelder, some of which are presented in the book.
Among them is the Ammersee fisherman Klaus Marx, from whom Hartl mainly purchases whitefish and sometimes pikeperch.
Marx's family has owned the fishing rights since 1456.
Fisheries history of the region
By the way, the reader learns a lot about the fishing history in the region - for example, that until the 19th century a large part of the catch had to be sold to the Royal Bavarian Court Kitchen Office.
And that thanks to sustainable fishing, the whitefish are almost twice as big and heavy as they were five years ago.
Hartl attaches great importance to working with family businesses - or right away with family members.
Together with his brother, he produces two types of beer for his own bar.
Cheese and calves come from his uncle's farm.
For author Ruhl, Hartl is also a “shutdown hero”, i.e. a hero in times of the Corona.
Coincidentally, the first lockdown coincided with a planned complete renovation of the tavern kitchen.
For this time, the restaurateur had prepared a BBQ concept - he grilled outside in the beer garden, the guests sat inside in the warm.
The winter grilling started well, but after six days the lockdown came.
Without further ado, Hartl switched to drive-in - and sold 220 of his burgers on the first evening, as Ruhl notes with astonishment.
Of course, the cookbook also has recipes from the twelve portrayed hosts.
Ambitious hobby cooks can try Josef Hartl's braised veal shoulder in dark beer and mustard sauce or his broccoli quinoa planter with grated mountain cheese.
