Far from the glamorous atmosphere of Capri, 10 times smaller than Ischia, Procida is a confetti in the heart of the Gulf of Naples, where many sailors and fishermen still live.
It's not a postcard island, although the cubic and colorful houses at Corricella Wharf are incredibly photogenic.
In this bewitching setting, a mixture of softness and austerity, which served as the backdrop for several novels, by
Graziella
, Lamartine, on
the Island of Arturo
, by Elsa Morante (to slip into your luggage), tourists are welcome, but it is better to speak Italian, or better the Neapolitan dialect, to be understood.
Procida still embodies a confidential Italy where villages and landscapes have remained intact.
Five good reasons to go for a walk as soon as the good weather arrives.
Visit Terra Murata
From Terra Murata, the views over the Gulf of Naples are dazzling.
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It all started at an altitude of 91 meters, on the highest promontory of the island.
Protected on one side by cliffs falling steeply into the cobalt blue sea, on the other by fortified walls, Terra Murata was for centuries the refuge of the inhabitants of Procida, fleeing barbarian incursions, Saracen pirates, Norman invasions… A veritable fortress, the
historic core
of the island can seem hostile as the dwellings are so tightly packed together, with no outside space.
But once you have entered the labyrinth of
medieval alleys
and squares with false Greek airs, the charm operates.
The views over the
Gulf of Naples
are dazzling and a sea breeze makes the ride delicious in midsummer, sometimes windy out of season.
In 2022, the
Avalos Palace
, the former home of the governors of the island, which was also a prison, will house a cultural center, the heart of the Italian capital of culture project.
Getting lost in La Corricella
The very colorful port of La Corricella.
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It is the most famous site of Procida.
Upon arrival at
Marina Grande
harbor
, take the wide main street.
Once past the pretty square next to the Church of San Leonardo, a staircase leads down to the sea. This is where the
Corricella
appears
.
Not really a village, rather an amphitheater wharf where blue and white fishing boats swing behind a row of pastel houses and a few restaurants with their terraces.
The Mediterranean light makes the whites whiter, the pinks more pink, the yellows more yellow.
Many scenes from I
l Postino
(
The Postman
)
were shot at La Corricella
, recounting the exile of Pablo Neruda in Procida, played by Philippe Noiret, and his friendship with a postman, apprentice poet, performed by Massimo Troisi.
Cinephiles will not fail to also find certain sets of the
Talented Mr Replay
, directed by Anthony Minghella.
Swim on the black sand beaches
Procida's volcanic origins can be seen on its dark sand beaches.
Do not expect long sandy stretches, Procida only has five small beaches, the most beautiful of which is
Pozzo Vecchio
, also called
Spiaggia del Postino
because several scenes from the film take place there.
This horseshoe-shaped bay located in the west of the island is surrounded by caves and cliffs, forming an enchanting backdrop and offering a wonderful sunset.
In summer, the beaches of Procida are often crowded.
To bathe in peace, it is recommended to climb the
cliffs
to find a rock and jump into the crystal clear water.
Savor the "Lingua di Bue"
Lingua di bue
, a soft lemon cake, specialty of Procida.
Misya / Photo
Great specialty of Procida,
lingua di bue
(beef tongue) has nothing to do with this culinary specialty of French gastronomy.
It is a cake made from puff pastry, filled with lemon cream, from the orchards of the island, whose shape only reminds some of those of cattle.
Others call it the mother-in-law's tongue ... Legend has it that an inhabitant of Procida, seeing these particularly long delicacies, exclaimed: "But
they are as long as my mother-in-law's tongue. !
".
You will find it in all bars and pastry shops, to taste warm and crispy.
Take a walk in the Vivara nature reserve
The islet of Vivara in Procida.
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Located at the southwestern end of Procida, this crescent-shaped islet is home to a nature reserve renowned for its unique flora and birdlife in the Mediterranean.
Connected to the main island by a pedestrian bridge,
Vivara
has been the subject of archaeological excavations, revealing fragments of Mycenaean earthenware.
Trails through the scrubland, offering spectacular views of Ischia and the Gulf of Naples, crisscross this little piece of land that can be discovered only by reservation with the reserve.
Convenient
How to get to Procida
From Naples, in 30 minutes by hydrofoil of the Molo Beverello (Caremar, Snav - around 15 € the ticket) or in 1 hour by ferry from the port of Calata di Massa (Caremar, Medmar - around 10 € the ticket).
It is advisable to take a ferry, slower, to admire the arrival on Procida.
Getting around the island
Many buses depart from the port of Marina Grande serving the various villages of Procida as well as taxis allowing you to go around the island and take advantage of the advice of island drivers.
Count 1.5 € for a bus ticket and around 12 € for a taxi fare.
Watch out for cars that drive fast (fortunately in one direction) and sometimes require pedestrians to shave the walls.
More information
:
visitprocida.com