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Rick Owens, Hood By Air, Leonard, Issey Miyake, Maison Rabih Kayrouz: 5 things you (maybe) didn't know about Paris Fashion Week

2021-03-07T19:37:53.441Z

Review of five things to remember from this week's fall-winter 2021-2022 fully digital collections. Rick Owens is a Venice lover fall-winter 2021-2022 collection Rick Owens Rick Owens It has been almost two years since the American designer left the City of Light - for a long time his workshop was installed on the Place du Palais Bourbon in Paris - for Venice. Since then, he has filmed his parades, never far from the Lido. This time, his half-gothic, half-couture creatures walk a concrete pier



Rick Owens is a Venice lover

fall-winter 2021-2022 collection Rick Owens Rick Owens

It has been almost two years since the American designer left the City of Light - for a long time his workshop was installed on the Place du Palais Bourbon in Paris - for Venice.

Since then, he has filmed his parades, never far from the Lido.

This time, his half-gothic, half-couture creatures walk a concrete pier in a twilight atmosphere.

At the end, there is a gray smoke giving an idea of ​​the end of the world.

The collection is inspired by the garden of Ghetsemane, where according to the Bible, Christ prayed to the old woman of her crucifixion.

In the intent note, he explains: "We are going through a period of tension in our history and we are awaiting the outcome that it be catastrophic or rational in a suspense so dramatic that it becomes biblical."

So be it.

Remains on the screen masked vestals of another reality dressed in XXL down capes, armor cut in sculptural sheaths, combinations of sequins and draped bodysuits that Diana Ross or Lady Gaga would not have denied and deconstructed, twisted mesh, superimposed head to tail.

So many examples of the virtuosity of the creator who, on the other side of the Alps, seems to have given himself a second wind.

Hood By Air is back.

Naomi Campbell too.

Fall-winter 2021-2022 collection Hood By Air Hood By Air

The supermodel like you've never seen her before.

Short hair, harnessed in a kind of black leather jumpsuit with sleeves in the shape of crab claws.

The Panther, 50 years old, is almost unrecognizable ... If it is not his eternal gaze that looks at you.

But for whom has the eternal queen of the podiums metamorphosed in this way?

She is, in fact, the face of the latest collection from Hood By Air, an independent American brand founded in 2006 by Shayne Oliver.

For a while, we thought that this African-American troublemaker would represent the future of

made in

New York

fashion

before he decided to put his label to sleep in 2017. With this series of images shot in black & white, he is relaunching his label redesigned for “the world after” between a main line of original creations, another called HBA for derivative products, Museum dedicated to its archives and Anonymous Club, a multidisciplinary creative studio.

To be continued.

Leonard has a new artistic director

Leonard Leonard fall-winter 2021-2022 collection

His name is Georg Lux.

This German, vintage lover, had the good idea to draw inspiration from the late 1970s - early 1980s, the golden age of the French house specializing in armfuls of printed flowers, and a a certain idea of ​​chic and decadence emanating from

Folies Bourgeoises

by Claude Chabrol, released in 1976. “

This sensual, feminine, free woman played by Stéphane Audran is ultimately very Leonard,” he

explains.

I found advertisements of the house shot by Helmut Newton dating from the same period which emanate the same luxuriant spirit.

But what I wanted above all to show is beauty that knows no confinement.

We will always want to dress up, go out, have fun.

And I hope we all can soon.

 A desire for opulence that translates into an evening gown in lurex and devoré velvet with pink leopard patterns or the taffeta cape covered with abstract flowers with a moiré effect, handcrafted in Lyon.

"

In these difficult times, it is important to stick together between French companies

," explains Nathalie Tribouillard, CEO who took over from her father Daniel Tribouillard, founder of the label in 1958. All the more so as to maintain these links is vital for our independent craftsmen and more rewarding for our houses. ”

And Issey Miyake invented the pleats

fall-winter 2021-2022 collection Issey Miyake Issey Miyake

Since 1988, when he signed his signature pleats, Issey Myake has continued to develop his material through Homme Plissé, his male wardrobe.

For women, it's Satoshi Kondo to always put innovation back on the bench.

Thus, this season, the young artistic director is inventing a fabric combining organic cotton and polyester capable of pleating in certain places thanks to elastic threads which contract during the prewash, and of creating a strange shape, hugging the body, from the original rectangle.

Still in the pleated family, the series called Monochrome Planet, made up of circular pieces with concentric openings and folds taking up minimum space in the closet but maximum effect when worn.

Rabih Kayrouz house, hit hard by the explosion in Beirut, last August

fall-winter 2021-2022 collection Maison Rabih Kayrouz Maison Rabih Kayrouz

His fashion house is located in the Gemmayzé district and overlooks the port. Choosing to have tea in the kitchen rather than on the veranda saved his life. On the other hand, the production tools of his workshop were destroyed. But after the post-traumatic shock, the Lebanese designer has started to create again by refocusing on the essential. Two collections per year, in January and July cut into small series according to the seasons, a majority of fabrics taken from its archives, prices 20 to 30% lower and dressing standards intended to be kept forever. Sustainable fashion therefore without it being written (claiming) on ​​the label which is evident in the winter 2021 video published early Saturday morning. Go to the boutique to fall for a cocoon coat, a second skin turtleneck, a charming charmeuse blouse, a simple golden sheath that is obvious.

Source: lefigaro

All news articles on 2021-03-07

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