At Nina Ricci, the Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter duo are inspired by the times… In the literal sense, since the stopper with two crystal doves of the house's legendary perfume is used in the form of spectacular earrings transparent and pendants.
And in the figurative sense, at the same time, in the way of tightening their collection
(“We immediately thought about how to reduce the number of looks, to adapt them to the period, by discarding certain“ too ”glamorous ideas: we wanted to keep our feet on the ground ”),
to work with materials (very sportswear faded nylons and traditional woolens) or even to design convertible and transformable clothes to face all situations.
From multi-pocket overshirts to loose duffle coats (with integrated scarf) and suits worn over a kind of hooded K-Way, each garment is designed to blend in with an everyday wardrobe.
“We always have in mind the principles dear to Ms. Ricci, namely to offer accessible sewing, anchored in reality.
It is the concept of this locker room that we can modify as we wish ”,
decrypts Lisi Herrebrugh.
Like other designers who see next winter in color, the tandem skilfully exploits sugar plum pinks, absinthe greens, fluorescent yellows and above all, Klein blue which dynamises the removable collars like the empty chairs of the parade. filmed and broadcast last Friday.
Industrial aesthetics
On Sunday, Givenchy gave the Paris La Défense Arena concert hall the air of a deserted nightclub.
“We would have liked to parade there in front of an audience.
I have always been very inspired by music, which is linked to how I discovered fashion
, explains Matthew Williams, its artistic director, who notably created stage costumes for singer Lady Gaga and collaborated with Kanye. West.
I took part in their tours, performing concerts in venues of this size. ”
Illuminated by a beam of light, young women and men walk to the martial rhythm of Robert Hood's minimal techno.
For those who know the house on avenue George-V through the haute couture of its founder, Hubert de Givenchy, the scenery is great.
A dress designed in the Givenchy Givenchy couture workshops
Admittedly, this second collection by the Californian named in June 2020 revisits codes such as the 4G emblem (in bag clasps, crew-neck chains and patterns on tight tops), black and white or even structured shoulders.
But she owes more to the looks of the sisters Jenner and Kardashian (who all posted on Instagram, before the show, a photo of them in Givenchy) than to Audrey Hepburn's little black dress… Between the hooded men with mittens in faux fur the size of boxing gloves and women tucked into mesh dresses leaving little to the imagination (revealing bare breasts or buttocks through transparency), the locker room looks spectacular, fetishist tendency .
There remain the very beautiful costumes, both male and female, developed in the brand's couture workshops - the industrial-aesthetic padlock proposed by Williams upon his arrival at the studio replaces the buttons on a jacket.
And the new backpack with removable units designed to accommodate, among other things, two water bottles.
“Sometimes we carry a lot of things.
Sometimes we carry less. ”
This has the merit of being pragmatic ...
At Givenchy, industrial details dear to Matthew Williams adorn very successful Givenchy suit jackets
Place Vendôme, Daniel Roseberry exults:
"I make fashion for people who adore fashion!"
Since his arrival at Schiaparelli, the Texan has established himself as a worthy heir to the work of Elsa Schiaparelli, the most surrealist of couturiers.
“It all started with classic wardrobe shapes: a parka, a denim jacket, a little black dress, a white poplin shirt… I then transformed them, with buttons reminiscent of the house's historic jewelry, shaped like a nose, ears, etc.
I want to highlight the whole body, not just the parts that are sexualized. ”
At Schiaparelli, a phone case takes the shape of a Schiaparelli ear
A phone shell, the opening image of the presentation video broadcast on Monday, represents an oversized golden ear.
The kind of opulent, photogenic details that younger generations go crazy for.
“
Everything is designed for the digital era.
I never tell people that they should see the collection in real life to measure the impact: I want it to be understood through the screen.
For me, that's it, Schiaparelli! "
The wisest, in the end, are these fluid “shocking pink” dresses
,
this fuchsia inseparable from Schiap.
“Because it's refreshing, happy.
Right now, people need a smile more than ever! ”
