Routine returns and with it the usual dilemmas around the holiday table and above all - what wine will we drink on Seder night?
• Ronen Perlmutter with recommendations for wines that will make all those sitting at the table happy
The perfect solution to the wine dilemma
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Until last Passover, the great concern of Israelis in the context of the holiday was the meeting around the Seder table with the family, and the custom passed down from generation to generation was to joke and complain about the tiredly crowded family evening with distant and not always loved family members.
In light of the past year, the situation has changed and the most threatening phobia of all on Seder night is loneliness.
Family, oh family.
How much we missed her and how much we are afraid of meeting her, and this year, after all, we are back to celebrate Pesach together, for the pros and cons of the celebration.
And come on - the corona year has taught us to re-evaluate the value of Israeli family.
Yes, even the annoying aunt or brother-in-law with the weird jokes.
One of the things that most connects people, inside and outside the family, is the wine, and sages who set the order to drink four such glasses on Seder night will testify to this ("Great sip approaching", Babylonian Talmud, Sanhedrin kg).
But what - not everyone likes to drink the same wines - there are those who are closed on a young and strong Cabernet, the second prefers an aging and caressing boat, and a third in general drinks only white wine.
Just as their faces are different, so are their wines.
so what are we doing?
One option is to stock up on the holiday table with several types of wine and everyone will choose.
Honestly, this is not a bad option at all, especially considering the wine promotions of the chains and stores, who know that Passover is the annual record in sales of alcoholic grape nectar (yes, also in grape juice sales, but for dealing with it let me skip).
Another option is to try and weave into the broad common denominator of all the participants in the seder - not easy but possible, and especially for the sake of interest, we mobilized, tasted, sipped, spat and eventually chose a diverse selection of excellent wines that the whole family will likely connect with.
And just as each family has its own style and character - so do we, who this time focused on red wines (we will leave the whites for Pentecost), but tried to give expression to both modern, soft and sour wines and more classic wines, with sweet and powerful fruit flavors, but also boutique wineries. Wine wineries are also bigger - and on varying budgets, so that each family can find here the bottle of wine and perhaps also its own personal redemption.
And now, time for tasting.
Merlot, 2017 Tishbi Winery - For
a long time we did not get to taste wine from this family winery that has already expanded into a vibrant culinary complex and we probably really missed it.
100% merlot from a vineyard at the foot of Kfar Tavor, which has been matured for about a year in French barrels.
Excellent and round, in the nose red fruit (raspberry, cassis) pleasant with a noticeable but moderate barrel effect in the form of a little vanilla in the background.
Solid and accessible body and a fun finish.
And also a great price.
Just for the whole family.
(85 shekels)
, D vs G, 2019 Winery - Stones 5
Despite the name, this is a strictly Israeli wine (export-oriented) that the winemaker behind it is the veteran and esteemed Sasson Ben Aharon, who created a great blend of 45% Mediterranean varieties - Shiraz, 26 % Marcelan, 18% Carignan and 11% Petit Syrah.
After 10 months of maturation in French barrels, about 30% of them new, a shiny red-purple wine was obtained, with earthy aromas alongside black fruits, violets and a hint of thyme.
Has complexity and a bit of pleasant bitterness at the end.
Elegant and balanced wine - and for less than a hundred shekels.
(99 shekels)
Syrah Reserve 2018 Tabernacle Winery -
a new player in the Israeli winery landscape (debut here as well), owned by the Rosenberg family, the new buyer of EL AL, and renamed Tabernacle (Tabernacle - "Mishkan" in English translation), but in a surprise bottle - Wine on the purity of Syrah grapes and after 15 months of soaking in barrels half of which are new.
Still with a young purple color, classic aromas of the lavender variety, skin and black berries with peppery seasoning and anise hint.
In the mouth it feels very young and we are ready for a few more years in which it will develop and mature.
well made.
(99 shekels)
Carignan, 2018 Jezreel Valley Winery -
Made from 100% Carignan grapes grown on mature vines (almost a decade old) in Kerem Shfeya.
The wine was aged for about a year and a half in 300-liter French oak barrels.
Deep and seductive burgundy color, in the nose red fruit (raspberry, red plum) great and spicy.
In sip it is juicy and has an intense texture.
Medium-bodied and full body.
And no, for what you get it is inexpensive.
(120 shekels)
Tel Kaser, Morsir 2017 Netofa Winery -
a new, different and exciting wine from Pierre Miodobnik, the veteran French winemaker leading the winery since its inception, containing 92% Morbedre grapes from the Lower Galilee with the completion of 8% Syrah of sufficient strength to position the The wine as a screen and even enter into its name (the name of the wine, Mor-Sir, is the bread of Morbed and Syrah).
This is a wide, rich and fruity wine that even after 13 months of aging barrel maintains a proper freshness and a bright purple color.
In the nose plenty of red berries alongside chocolate, smoke and good earthiness.
Round body but very elegant.
There is no one who will not fall under his spells.
(130 shekels)
Cassiopeia, 2018 Nana Winery -
from a southern screen (Kerem Nahal Tzin) installed from a boat (70% slightly Cabernet (20%) and completion of Petit Verdot and Petit Syrah in equal parts. 14 months of barrel, most The wine has a deep purple-black color with plenty of typical aromas - ripe black grains (cherries, plums and asanas), mint and a little black pepper alongside vanilla and chocolate originating in barrels. Earthy taste in a glass, four such glasses and you will feel real freedom (NIS 130)
Grenache Noir, 2019 Vitkin Winery -
Assaf Paz is not tempted by the familiar varieties (Cabernet, Merlot and the like) and continues consistently and safely in its unique line of varieties.
This time we sampled this fantastic granache noir, with a beautiful fuchsia color, a fresh nose with lots of red fruits (currants and raspberries).
On the palate it is harmonious, with good acidity and a medium but multi-layered body.
Pierre?
One of the best we have tasted.
For non-conformist families looking for a different wine.
(NIS 150)
Special Reserve, 2017 Recanati Winery -
The winery's flagship wine is brewed in this vintage from five varieties 35% - Cabernet Sauvignon (Menara vineyard), 35% Syrah (fertilizer), and the balance is divided between Carignan-Wild (Deir Rafat), Marslan (Kedmat Zvi), and Petit Syrah (Jezreel Valley). From all the good of the land. Each variety matured on its own for about a year in 500-liter barrels and then another six months in formidable 3,000-liter wooden containers. Sounds complex? This is the poet's intention. The wine itself has a dark and beautiful burgundy color. The nose is restrained, but after a decent penetration, mild red and black fruit aromas are released. In the mouth the texture is velvety with great fruity flavors, dark chocolate and good acidity. Such a bottle on the table and no family member will remain indifferent. (189 shekels)