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Stopover on the Vicentine coast, Portugal seen from the sea

2021-04-13T06:07:47.514Z


GUIDE - Running from Santiago de Cacém to Lagos, the Natural Park of Southwest Alentejo and the Vicentine Coast reveals a preserved coastline, a figure of responsible tourism in Portugal, whose profile changes with the seasons and kilometers.


A flat area of ​​deep blue that is lost on the horizon, gray-brown cliffs shaded with green, sand and red earth, the scent of spray, sun and wild herbs… Less than two hours from Lisbon, the vicentine coast, or "rota vicentina", looks like a beautiful promise.

And she holds it, reconciling over 119 km of coastline the raw serenity of the Alentejo and the wild ardor of a certain Algarve, far from concrete drifts ...

The Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park covers more than 75,000 hectares, stretching between cliffs perched above the ocean and land.

This coast, one of the best preserved in Europe, offers a field of exploration open to the ocean and respectful of the natural and human environment.

From hiking along the trails to discovering back roads inland, and turning your back on the ocean, opening your arms to local life, southern cape of Europe.

Read also: Ten reasons to discover Portugal

From small walks to long hikes, an ode to pedestrian paradise

Excellent viewpoint overlooking the beach, Zambujeira do Mar is a small fishing village which has managed to maintain calm and tranquility.

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Between Santiago de Cacém in Alentejo and Lagos, in Algarve, the Vicentine coast has 740 kilometers of hiking trails marked by the "

Rota Vicentina

"

.

This association, now supported by public actors in the region, is at the origin of the initiative of local residents anxious not to see their wild coastline denatured by too little precautionary tourism development.

From 2013, the project of this association is twofold: to create in the region a network of partners who are part of the wake of tourism respectful of the environment, culture, the local community and offer activities and services which highlight the richness of the territory.

The inauguration in 2013 of the two main hiking axes, the “Fisherman's Trail” and the “Historical Trail”, initiated this movement.

Both, accessible to the greatest number, are signposted in both directions.

The “

Fisherman's Trail

” follows from Sines to Lagos the coastal path taken by local residents to access fishing grounds and beaches.

We walk between dunes and cliffs, on sandy soil most of the time.

Bring good shoes!

If the whole road runs in front of the ocean, revealing a panorama that changes as the schist cliffs of the southwest of the Alentejo give way to those, limestone, of the Algarve, the path makes also a few forays into the land to better meet afterwards, around a bend, face-to-face with the Atlantic.

Among the routes of this trail, we recommend the hike that links

Zambujeira do Mar

to

Odeceixe

.

Along the way, the one-day itinerary passes through

Praia Amalia

, so named because the great figure of fado, Amalia Rodrigues, had her habits there (as well as a house, which can be seen from the beach), and from dunes to secret beaches and natural fishing port, it opens as a final note on one of the most spectacular panoramas of the coast, in

Ponta em Branco

.

To get inspiration from these views during a shorter walk (1 hour), we recommend the loop between

Zambujeira do Mar

and

Praia dos Alteirinhos

.

Another route of the Fisherman's Trail, the one that connects

Vila Nova de Milfontes

(out of season, prefer a departure from Furnas beach, when the boat connection from one bank of the Rio Mira to the other is not possible) to

Almograve

is also a must see.

Do not hesitate to visit, in addition to the village of Odemira (here in photo), some emblematic places such as the river beach of Pego das Pias, the chapel of Nossa Senhora das Neves, the Mira river and the Torgal river.

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The large “rota vicentina” path on the land side is called the “

Historical Path

”.

In 2016, it was awarded the prestigious "

Leading Quality Trails - Best of Europe

" by the ERA (European Ramblers Association) which distinguishes the best hiking destinations in Europe.

With good reason: it reveals, beyond the coastal paths, the poetry of the land.

Turning its back to the Atlantic for a few hours, this GR explores fields, towns and villages, revealing another side of Alentejan culture and relief.

Our preference goes to the route that connects the pretty village of

Sao Luis

to

Odemira

, because it offers a striking contrast with the coastline, yet so close.

To the rough outline of the cliffs, it substitutes the gentle curves of the valleys, the sand dunes, the living forest, the ocean, the Torgal river on the edge of which the second part of the route takes a walk ... to

Pego das Pias

, one of the most beautiful landscapes in the Alentejo.

Dense vegetation, dull green, huge rocks whose reflection colors the clear water.

Considered a “river beach”,

Pego das Pias

actually calls for swimming.

The bravest will dare it, gleaning a bit of freshness in the process, before continuing towards

Odemira

.

In addition to these major axes, there are shorter routes (½ day or less), circular routes which allow you to discover the region without complications.

One of them, our favorite, combines land and coastline from the small village of

Bordeira

.

It crosses landscapes of dunes, valleys, pine forests of umbrella pines and sees its highest point opening onto the bay of

Arrifana

to the north, the beaches of Bordeira and

Carrapateira

to the south.

Since 2019, the Vicentine coast can also be discovered by mountain bike, with a cycle route of more than 1000 km.

On the sand or in the waves, the coast along the beaches

Praia do Malhão actually has several small beaches: Praia da Cruz, do Saltinho, dos Nascedios and das Galés.

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The question "What is your favorite beach?"

is crucial in Portugal.

Totaling 31 beaches, the Vicentine coast, in the heart of the eponymous natural park, offers some of the most beautiful in the country.

In the southwest of Alentejo, there are first of all immense schist cliffs plunging steeply into the Atlantic, vast expanses of beaches and offshore, waves that give surfers the opportunity to face beautiful waves.

Departing from

Porto Covo

, the first village on the Vicentine coast, here is Vila Nova de Milfontes and

Praia do Malhão.

This actually has several small beaches: Praia da Cruz, do Saltinho, dos Nascedios and das Galés.

So there is a bit of “

Malhão

” for everyone… Including savvy surfers.

Beginners can learn about it with the renowned

SurfMilfontes school

.

From

Malhão

one can reach one of the most beautiful sunsets on the coast after a beautiful 4 hour hike.

Arrival is just above where the fishermen unload their daily cargo and in front of the

Porta das Barcas

restaurant

, one of the best on the coast.

Further on, why not make a stopover on the small

Praia da Ilha

beach

, just in front of the

island of Pessegueiro

, a green island decked out with a ruined fort whose murky history lends itself to all interpretations.

And, although it is no longer wild or completely deserted, and the path to get there is easily found today, the

Praia do Bejo Largo,

a kilometer long strip of sand

,

is protected. crowds.

A few kilometers from Aljezur, the

Praia de Monte Clérigo

combines a vast expanse of sand and a rocky landscape which reveals its richness at low tide: anemones, crabs and starfish ... The north and west winds are refreshing the air, but the dunes play in favor of visitors: in the hollow, you are sheltered from the wind.

But the most famous meeting point for seasoned surfers is

Arrifana

beach

 : they come from everywhere to challenge the waves.

Those curious about surfing and bodyboarding also have their place here, as well as those who just want to indulge in a nap, reading or contemplating the landscape, because the crescent beach is bordered by impressive cliffs.

We also taste in Arrifana the “surf culture”, without the typical Algarve architecture being distorted.

Continuing the road south, near Vila do Bispo, the neighboring beaches of

Castelejo

and

Cordoama

are also suitable for bodyboarding or surfing, but, due to the power of the waves, only for the experienced.

A small path from Cordoama (accessible by car) provides access to a high point of view, ideal for contemplating the panorama of the cliffs and rocks scattered over the immense beach.

Just before arriving in

Sagres

, stop at Fort de Beliche, a superb view of the ocean, ruins, endemic plants and wild flowers in the foreground.

The beach of the same name is only a few minutes by car: towards Sagres,

Beliche beach

, easily accessible from the road, reminds us that we are in the Algarve.

Small compared to the beaches of Alentejo, the coast forms an arc of a circle which protects the courageous bathers from the wind.

It's hard to imagine that we are here so close to the city.

Read also: Five secret beaches in Portugal to enjoy a vacation away from the crowds

From the Alentejo to the Algarve, taste the local life

In Odeceixe, the traditional windmill, perched at the top of the village of white houses, is still in operation.

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If the “costa vicentina” lends itself to exploration at a good pace during hikes, it would be a shame to walk it without taking the time to stopover.

A whole section of Portuguese culture can be discovered through quiet villages like

Aljezur

, where it would be wise to have lunch at Pont'a Pé, a traditional table (at the entrance of the village), Vila do Bispo and Odeceixe, where the A traditional windmill, perched at the top of the village of white houses, is still in operation.

In partnership with local actors, a number of activities offered in the region are listed on the rota vicentina website, allowing for example to discover the work of wool, to taste the wines of the coast in a quinta, to observe birds, paddle boarding on the Mira river, discover the artisanal traditions of the region ... or new creations, such as the manufacture of decorative objects and furniture from old ship carcasses found on the beaches, in the workshop of Miguel Teiga.

And then there are the markets, like the Feira das Brunheiras in

Vila Nova de Milfontes

, where all the producers of the region meet.

So many activities that allow you to complete your exploration of the Vicentine coast ... or even extend the duration of the trip.

The practical Vicentine coast

PREPARE YOUR TRIP

Consult the

Rota Vicentina

website (in French)

for cycling routes and all hiking trails.

For personalized tours (in English) focused around the flora and fauna of the Vicentine coast, exploring villages or local crafts, contact

Finn

, native of Vila Nova de Milfontes and great connoisseur of all the secrets of the region (finnsroutes.com).

WHEN TO GO

With an average of 300 days of sunshine, the region lends itself to exploration all year round.

However, hiking is not recommended in July and August.

We recommend that you prefer spring and autumn in the heart of summer, for the mild climate and the colors of the panorama.

HOW TO GET THERE

By plane

, take one of the many daily flights to Lisbon or Faro.

Then, rent a car.

By car from Lisbon

, take the A2 / A12 towards “Sul / Algarve”.

On the A2, take the IP8 towards Sines, then Odemira and Porto Covo.

From Faro

, take the A22 or take the national road 125 until reaching Lagos / Bensafrim, from where you continue on the national road towards Aljezur, Carrapateira or Vila do Bispo.

Once there, to organize transfers, especially for hiking, many taxi and transfer services listed on the site of the Rota Vicentina association.

OR SLEEP

Craveiral Farmhouse, a rural hotel that combines elegance, comfort and delicious cuisine.

Craveiral Farmhouse / Photo press

Very Marias

Between Porto Covo and Vila Nova de Milfontes, ten rooms with clear lines, fields in the foreground, the beach a little further.

We fell in love with number 15, opening onto two terraces, and the cabin in the woods in which to take a little height!

Excellent value.

Double room from 100 €.

Três Marias, 7645-909 Vila Nova de Milfontes, Portugal.

Phone.

: +351 965 666 231.

Craveiral Farmhouse

A beautiful eco-responsible address that celebrates Portugal in general and the region in particular.

Particularly designed for families, this rural hotel combines elegance, comfort and delicious wood-fired cuisine prepared under the watchful eye of Michelin-starred chef Alexandre Silva.

Good selection of excursions to discover the region from the hotel.

Double room from 160 €.

Craveiral Farmhouse, Estrada Municipal 501, Km. 4, 7630-658, Teotónio Odemira, Portugal.

Phone.

: +351 283 249 170.

Source: lefigaro

All news articles on 2021-04-13

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