Since April 2018, Kris Van Assche has been working to transpose Berluti's bootmaking heritage into a singular, often colorful ready-to-wear, pushing the limits of the know-how and craftsmanship dear to the house famous for its patina. .
Earlier this month, he was showcasing a successful collection via video and physical presentation in China.
His last, since he announced his departure on April 20.
To read also: Kris Van Assche (Berluti): "Even if it is comfortable at home, I am not convinced that jogging represents the future"
In an Instagram post, the artistic director, who studied alongside Hedi Slimane, before taking over the head of Dior Homme collections (from 2007 to 2015), declared that “
these three years at Berluti have been extremely intense. Reinventing and reshaping the brand's DNA, history and tradition, craftsmanship and luxury in a contemporary and creative way was definitely a challenge, and all the limitations and restrictions around COVID-19 have not helped. .
"
In a press release, Antoine Arnault, its chairman, declared: “in
order to continue to develop a commitment to know-how and innovation turned towards the future, we have decided to include Berluti in its own rhythm. and which allows him to regain a freedom of presentation
. " At present, therefore, we do not know what the contours of this new rhythm will be, nor what will be the future of ready-to-wear in the house. Founded in 1895, it is one of the most famous shoemakers in the world, having shod figures such as the Duke of Windsor and Yul Brynner. Since 2012, it has been offering clothing, designed first by Alessandro Sartori (now at Ermenegildo Zegna), succeeded by Haider Ackermann, then Kris Van Assche. In its fold, we also find the prestigious Parisian tailor Arnys, prized by many French men of power, whose activity has been absorbed by the tailor-made service of the house.
For his part, the Belgian did not specify what his future would be like. “
When I heard the news, I was first very surprised, then disappointed, because I left behind a project that I am still convinced that it should have and could have worked
, he said. at
Figaro. But I am a rather pragmatic designer, and when I understood that there would be no place for a real artistic direction with a creative and demanding point of view in this new strategy, and therefore, no place for me , I accepted the idea. I turn a page, take everything I've learned and look to the future. I have had my own independent brand and have been at the helm of Dior Homme for over ten years, and I just spent three years reinventing the tradition, heritage and craftsmanship of the most successful male brand. luxurious. So I think I'm pretty prepared for this fast-changing fashion world. I have been working non-stop for over 20 years and, if it is too early to talk about the rest, I admit to feeling some excitement.This freedom of the moment is not unpleasant!
"
