Between history and sacred, five stops in Sri Lanka for a circuit in the "cultural triangle"

“Earthly paradise exists, I have met it! "

, Marveled Marco Polo stop in Ceylon in the thirteenth century ... Today, as the island has found peace, its enchanting reputation heels throughout the course. More than a simple journey, exploring the heart of this "Pearl of the Indian Ocean" is a fabulous adventure caressing 25 centuries of history, tossed between Buddhist serenity, royal magnificence and a few hazy mysteries, against a backdrop of a rustling and bushy jungle. . These are the ingredients - spicy - of the "Sinhala fairyland", which reveals itself without detour to the visitor of this true "golden triangle", where authentic culture and fierce nature flirt endlessly in grandiose landscapes.

Leaving from

Colombo

- capital and international airport of Sri Lanka - for 8 days of travel

,

you must first go north by car with driver; or 4 hours 15 minutes (210 km) alternating coastline and tropical forest, to reach

Anuradhapura

,

the starting point of this 260 km roadtrip, which continues towards

Polonnaruwa

and ends in

Kandy

.

In short, three old towns emerging from the jungle at the three summits of the “cultural triangle”; all classified as World Heritage by Unesco, like

Sigiriya

and

Dambulla

,

our two other gems to visit on the way.

Read also: These trips that inspired them: Sri Lanka by interior designer Charlotte de Tonnac

Km 0 - Anuradhapura

,

ancient resuscitated capital

One of the majestic stupas, rising more than 70 meters above the tropical vegetation and believed to contain sacred relics.

Knowledge of Ceylon

Founded in 437 BC. AD, this city was the beating heart of the island for nearly fifteen centuries. Capital in the hands of Sinhalese Buddhists, Anuradhapura regularly comes under the yoke of Hindu Tamils, who came from southern India. Nearly ninety kings follow one another, covering it with palaces, temples, monasteries and gigantic stupas. Then, the Sinhalese monarchy abandoned Anuradhapura in the 11th century for a site less exposed to invaders: Polonnaruwa. The old capital then sank into oblivion for 800 years, taken over by a thick jungle, before being rediscovered by the English in the 19th century.

Now resuscitated, it stands out as a holy place - very active - of Sri Lankan Buddhism, which fascinates us with its colorful religious ceremonies and the incredible fervor of its pilgrims, against the backdrop of an exceptional heritage. Spread over ten kilometers, this historic site - far from being completely unearthed from its vegetal matrix - is crisscrossed by small roads to be traveled by bike or car, guided by the driver.

We first discover a

sacred tree

,

the famous

Sri Maha Bodhi,

in fact a cutting of the

ficus religiosa

under which Buddha would have received Enlightenment in northeast India. Planted here 2300 years ago and surrounded by altars flowered with offerings, it is the epicenter of local spiritual veneration, accompanied by a multitude of monks in saffron robes.

Also several majestic

stupas

- in red or pristine white brick - rising more than 70 meters above the tropical vegetation and believed to contain sacred relics.

While all around are the countless

ruins

of palaces and monasteries, often bristling with stone pillars supporting their wooden structure, which has now disappeared.

Km 100 - The splendours of Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa is crossed by a dozen superb religious monuments.

Jean Michel Turpin / Le Figaro Magazine

It takes a little over two hours by road - sometimes crossed by wild elephants frolicking in neighboring parks - to reach Polonnaruwa, this second Sinhalese capital torn from the jungle and marvel at its superbly preserved monuments and iconic Buddhas, coiled up on the shore of Lake Topawewa. Without a major religious role and therefore less lively than its older sister, this archaeological gem captivates with its timeless, peaceful and somewhat suave atmosphere, as much as with its human dimensions.

Capital of the island since the 11th century, Polonnaruwa was one of the most radiant cities in South Asia, adorned with a fortified royal palace and a host of prestigious shrines, temples, monasteries and stupas celebrating in great pump the Tooth of Buddha, supreme relic and palladium of the Sinhalese monarchy. A dazzling mix of architectures with multiple influences, abandoned to the devouring jungle from the 13th century, but whose newfound magnificence can be explored today on foot, by bike or by car.

The visit - accompanied by monkeys! - first takes us to the

terrace of the relic of the Tooth Relic,

the mythical

Dalada Maluwa,

bringing together a dozen superb religious monuments, the most glorious of which once contained this precious relic embodying the legitimacy of the Sinhalese dynasty. Further on, the impressive

Lankatilaka

remains the largest temple on the island, a vast gaping nave under the rule of a huge standing Buddha, without arms or head. Finally, the unmissable sanctuary of

Gal Vihara

transports us to four rock statues of

the Illuminated,

including an emblematic reclining Buddha - carved out of 14 meters of cliff with stylized features - which overwhelms us with its grace and serene beauty.

Do not miss a visit to

the archaeological museum,

one of the most beautiful in the country.

Read also: Sri Lanka: a Sinhala walk

Km 160 - Sigiriya, mysterious citadel of vertigo

The panorama from the top of Sigiriya, whose ruins peak 200 meters above the jungle.

Knowledge of Ceylon

About 1 hour 20 minutes away, another highlight in the visit of the "cultural triangle" and even of the whole country, the "lion rock" with its red reflections rises to 200 meters above the jungle and the clouds, in a breathtaking panorama.

This impregnable site was surmounted by an

aerial

palace

, the nerve center of the ephemeral capital of a fifth century Sinhalese parricidal king. If only ruins remain in a grandiose landscape, the ascent of the rock - on a vertiginous staircase - allows us to discover the great curiosity of the site. The famous

Ladies of Sigiriya

,

are women painted in the fresco in a crevice of the cliff and preserved in an exceptional state of freshness.

Crowned with crowns, adorned with flowers and jewels, they seem to emerge from a cloud and sport bare breasts, provocative of perfection!

Ladies of the court, royal brides and their maids, or heavenly creatures, who were they?

The mystery of this refined eroticism remains ... While at the foot of the rock-fortress, we walk through the remains, gardens, ponds and cult caves of the

noble city

on the terrace, surrounded by ramparts and moats.

Km 180 - Dambulla and its fabulous Golden Cave Temple

The legendary Golden Temple, an ancient Buddhist hermitage on the side of a cliff.

Jean Michel Turpin / Le Figaro Magazine

30 minutes south of Sigiriya, let's abandon the car and driver for a few moments in this charming little town, to climb on foot to the top of the imposing rock overlooking it. Up there, we explore the legendary

Golden Temple

in a mystical and scented twilight

, a rock temple lining five vast caves on the side of a cliff.

It was a modest Buddhist hermitage in the 1st century BC. BC when a Sinhalese king took refuge there, dethroned by Tamil invaders. Recovering his power, tradition says that he transformed the site into a radiant sanctuary, now a national holy place. The caves are decorated with frescoes evoking great historical facts and some scenes from the life of

the Illuminated one

linked to the introduction of religion on the island, with a lot of colorful graphic motifs. An astonishing mystical setting for nearly 150 superb statues of Buddha - with different dimensions and attitudes - receiving offerings and devotions from pilgrims during picturesque ceremonies, orchestrated by the priests of the temple.

Taking the road to Kandy for 80 km and 1h30 to 2h drive, you can stop at Matale and take a little botany course in one of

the spice gardens

, commercial showcases of the plantations of the hinterland. ...

Km 260 - Kandy, mystical pearl

At the Temple of the Tooth Relic of Kandy, devotion reaches its peak every summer in August, during the processions of the feast of Esala Perahera and its parade of pachyderms.

Tom Wyness / Adobe Stock

Surrounded by mountains encased in tropical vegetation which are reflected in the mirror of its artificial lake, Kandy was - from the 15th century - the last bastion of the Sinhalese kings, whose culture flourished for 2,500 years until the occupation of Ceylon by the English in 1815… Today, this city remains the cultural and religious capital of Sri Lanka.

Kandy appears to us at the end of the day, amid the deep rumor of the drums rising from the

Temple of the Tooth Relic of Buddha

, the mythical

Dalada Maligawa.

Surrounded by a wall, this imposing 18th century sanctuary palace jealously preserves the most precious relic of the Buddhist world, which arrived in Kandy in 1590 after an eventful journey. The Tooth is enclosed in a silver box containing seven gold reliquaries adorned with precious stones and pearls, which fit into each other like Russian dolls and close with twenty keys!

You have to blend in with the disciplined and silent crowd of pilgrims to enter - barefoot - into the temple; preferably at dawn, at noon or at dusk, when the

ceremonies of Veneration are held

- announced by musicians in traditional dress. Under the imperious rule of the priests and in an outdated dampness, everyone parades in front of the holy of holies for a transcendental communion enamelled with offerings of flowers and incense ... And everywhere in town, the dresses of the bonzes slide in this celestial setting. on a colorful note, also recalling that Kandy - through its many monasteries - remains the guardian of the Buddhist traditions of the island, with recent rigorous inclinations ...

Devotion reaches its peak every summer in August, during the processions of the

feast of Esala Perahera

, when the Tooth of Buddha takes place on the back of a sacred elephant in a spectacular parade of richly decorated pachyderms, with a special exhilaration on the evening of the full moon!

Before

getting

back on the road, the

botanical garden of Peradenyia

, one of the most famous in Asia, offers a superb interlude of serenity and freshness, far from the bustling bustle of Kandy.

This former royal park, sublimated with passion by the English, lines up 60 hectares of spices, orchids, palm trees, medicinal plants, etc., carefully maintained by an army of gardeners.

This epic ends by reaching

Colombo

in 2 hours 30 by car (115 km) or aboard a vintage train, wiggling in an admirable landscape; with, why not, a stop at the

Pinnawala

Elephant

Orphanage ... From Kandy, by car or train, it is also possible to climb - a little further south - to the mythical

Adam's Peak

(2245 meters, sacred summit of the island) and the high

tea mountains

which make the reputation of the island in sublime panoramas; before descending to the wild elephant meadows of the south of the country, where the

national parks

of Uda Walawe and Yala are located

.

Also accessible from the country's religious capital, the magnificent

beaches on the east coast

will seduce lovers of idleness, without going back to square one!

Travelogue

Go to Sri Lanka

The best season to explore in the “cultural triangle” is from February to April.

Entry formalities

Hold a passport valid for at least 6 months after the return date;

have a return ticket;

have an ETA electronic travel authorization, valid for 30 days for two entries / exits;

ensure the latest health entry and travel conditions imposed by covid-19.

Airport

North of Colombo, the Bandaranaike International Airport is the gateway to the country, connected to France by many regular flights with stopovers.

Car rental with driver on arrival.

Car rental

French speaking driver with Knowledge of Ceylon.

Sri Lanka

Tourist Office

and covid-19 formalities: Srilanka.travel.

Sri Lanka

Heritage Sites

: Central cultural fund.

Address Book

IN ANURADHAPURA

Hotel

Uga Ulagalla

.

Lost in the countryside, a sublime boutique hotel located in elegant villas with private swimming pools, nestled in the heart of a lush garden surrounding an old English manor house.

A dream !

Huge swimming pool, spa and refined restaurant which revisits tradition with talent.

Villa 230 at € 535.

Uga Ulagalla

,

Thirippane Ulagalla Road, Anuradhapura 50072 LK, Ulagalla Rd, Tirappane, Sri Lanka.

Good food

The Sanctuary at Tissawewa.

At the heart of the sacred archaeological site, the colonial residence of the former British governor remains the setting of this well-kept restaurant, hesitating between the classic

rice and curry

and dishes with Western flavors.

A la carte, € 25.

The Sanctuary at Tissawewa, Old Puttalam Rd, Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka.

Phone.

: +94 25 2222299.

IN POLONNARUWA

Hotel

Ekho Lake House.

Bordering the lake in a magnificent panorama with a small infinity pool and lush vegetation, a beautiful hushed hotel housed in a former

English

restaurant

.

Cozy rooms with a grassy terrace and a view of the water, including the

Royal Suite

which hosted Queen Elisabeth II in 1954!

Good eclectic table with terrace on the lake.

Double room 110 to 270 €.

Ekho Lake House Hotel, Pothgul Mawatha, Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka.

Phone.

: +94 27 2222299

.

Good food

Jaga Food Restaurant.

You can simply enjoy a tasty

traditional

rice and curry

, simmered over a wood fire with fresh, organic and local ingredients.

Sincere service and all smiles, under a hut surrounded by rice fields, where not shy monitor lizards play.

Meal € 15.

Jaga Food Restaurant, Jaga Food, D9 Ela, Wel Para, Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka.

Phone.

: +94 77 7421042.

IN SIGIRIYA

Hotel and good food

Water Garden Sigiriya.

These are superb villas set in a large exuberant garden - surrounded by lakes and streams - at the end of which stands the majestic Sigiriya rock.

Gorgeous !

Magnificent swimming pool overlooking the countryside and spa.

Fine table - one of the most popular in the area - inspired by the world, where local specialties also take unexpected turns.

Villa 295 to 860 €, meal 30 to 50 €.

Water Garden Sigiriya, Indigaswewa, Sigiriya 21120, Sri Lanka.

Phone.

: +94 77 9443798.

KANDY

Hotel and good food

The Kandy House.

Secluded in the serene Kandy countryside, this sumptuous colonial villa from 1804 - formerly owned by a dignitary of the Sinhala kingdom - has been converted into a boutique hotel.

Elegant and comfortable rooms decorated

in style,

with private terrace.

Beautiful swimming pool in the tropical garden.

Excellent restaurant - one of the best in Kandy - serving fine modern cuisine with international intonations and the island's great classics.

Double room € 295 to € 415, meal € 30 to € 50.

The Kandy House, Amunugama Waluwa, Gunnepana, Kandy 20270, Sri Lanka.

Phone.

: +94 81 4921394.