The spirit of Rabbi Shimon beautifies the vineyards Israel today

The corona routine is slowly disappearing and the mountain is once again a center of pilgrimage. • A new acquaintance with the many wines and wineries in the pastoral area and warm recommendations for Lag B'Omer

• The merriment of Mount Meron

  Photo: 

  Dror Artzi - Ginny

The annual celebration in Meron on the tomb of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai on the day of his death, Lag B'Omer, is a great opportunity to return to the wonderful wine region of the Upper Galilee and Mount Meron in particular. It turns out, and not from today, that everything related to wine is a unique and sought-after repertoire By many winemakers and wineries, who enjoy the rest of Rabbi Shimon's spirit, claiming that not only does it instill a sacred atmosphere in the area, but also enhances the produce of the vineyards.

Eli Vanhutzkar, for example, a member of Moshav Meron, is a veteran educator who runs the high school yeshiva in Kiryat Ata.

In addition, he owns a ten-dunam vineyard and a tiny family winery that bears his last name.

It has been producing wine for almost two decades (with a break of a few years in the middle).

“It all started in 1996 when the deciduous plantations of the moshav were no longer profitable, and instead we planted our vineyard with Cabernet Sauvignon vines and a little Merlot and Petit Verdot.

"Our vineyard is located right at the foot of the moshav, parallel to Highway 866. In 2003 we produced the first wine, and in 2007 we won a gold medal in an international competition. This win gave us strength and slowly increased the quantities, although we stayed within the family business boundaries. The professional knowledge I participated in the wine production course of MATI Acre, and Bnei Shmulik, an agronomist by profession, who was responsible for many vineyards in the north of the country for large wineries, also enlisted to help with the family project. "

What do you think sets your location apart?

And Nahutzkar: "There is a special atmosphere here in the moshav, and whoever comes here feels it. Such a kind of calm, call it sacred, that descends on you. On our label is an illustration of the ancient synagogue of Meron, where Rashbi apparently prayed.

You live and work in the same place he lives, and you feel you are part of the continuity of the ancient generations. "

Our recommendation - Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Vanhutzkar Winery - you usually expect a Cabernet from a Galilean boutique winery to be crowded and crowded, and here - a surprise.

A wine with a light-medium body in the Chianti style, with a variety of red fruits (red plums, sour cherries and raspberries), spring blossoms and herbs (thyme).

In a sip it exhibits high acidity and fresh young tannins, and a medium finish in length.

Those who are looking for bombasticity - will be disappointed, but those who like sour and soft wines in the old world style, will find a gem here.

(79 NIS, available at the winery).

Liberation from egoism

Across the road, in the community seat Or Haganoz, is the "Or Haganoz" winery. The moshav was established a little over 30 years ago by a group of socialist Teshuvahs, who combine the study of Kabbalah with manual labor according to the method of the late Rabbi Ashlag, with the interpretation of the ladder.

"Our moshav is collaborative," says Aharon Ziv, the winery's winemaker for five years. And unlike a local for almost a quarter of a century, "and unlike a 'regular' kibbutz, our ideal is a belief that economic sharing is part of the work of God - a person invests his full strength and energy for the benefit of all and not just himself and so is concerned about the needs of others. . The winery is also owned by the locality itself. We do not have salaries, but each member receives a monthly budget according to his personal situation and needs. It is a kind of liberation from your egoism for the common good. Indeed, it is very complex in our generation to live like this, with all the material temptations and capitalism, and what strengthens us is the study of the Torah internals of Rabbi Shimon. 'And love your neighbor as yourself "refined within the kibbutz."

How did you get into wine production?

Ziv: "I grew up in north Tel Aviv in the Tzahala neighborhood, and my father made some wine at home in the garage. About 15 years ago it was a blessed year for a crop and one of my friends had lots of surplus edible grapes, an insane amount, and we had nothing to do with it. I used to make wine, so they dropped it on me.I consulted with experts and was told that from the specific variety we had (Red Globe) nothing would come out successful, but we did not listen to them and made wine - and it really turned out terrible and awful.But we already invested in equipment so we continued with it Also next year, while we practiced the grape varieties.

"From there, 12 years ago we established the winery and since then we see a great blessing in our work, thanks to Rabbi Shimon and our closeness - physically and spiritually - to it. In the coming vintage we plan to produce 700,000 bottles, about 40% of them for export. .

Our recommendation - Blend at Aspamia 2018 - a

wine from the flagship series of the Orot winery, installed in the style of Rioja wines, from the Tempranillo, Carignan and Morvader varieties that have been matured for about two years in wooden barrels.

Its color is very dark and opaque, the nose is wonderful - compressed black fruit, skin and good earthiness.

On the palate it is chewy and concentrated, with layers and complexity.

A piece of wine!

And if it exceeds your budget (and it is not cheap) - try the blend from the 'Merom' series, which is more affordable.

(230 NIS).

From Samaria to the home kitchen

For the benefit of those of us who are busy at work until late or just do not want to get stuck in traffic jams to Meron and therefore will celebrate at the neighborhood bonfire, here is a winery that brings all the good in Meron - to you.

Ben Haim Winery, which recently moved to its new and charming residence in Moshav Neve Yamin (between Hod Hasharon and Kfar Saba), receives most of its grapes from Mount Meron.

Heard of Shabbat reception celebrations every Friday at the winery, combining wine and cheese tastings with quality music played with me by Ben Haim, the winemaker, saxophonist and live spirit of the winery, have been known in the distance and it is necessary to book a place in advance.

The main vineyard of the winery (more than 50% of the grapes are absorbed from there) extends over about 40 dunams on a steep slope within the "Mount Meron" nature reserve.

The grapes from it - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Petit Syrah - are used to produce the winery’s high-end series.

"The vineyard is more than 20 years old," says Itai Ben-Haim, the winery's winemaker and its lively spirit. "The grapes that grow there are characterized by extremely small grains and concentrated aromas and flavors. It is densely planted and yields an average of 600 kg per dunam.

"Our family members have been barrels (producers of wine barrels) for generations, and we have been producing wine in Israel for more than a decade."

Why did you plant the vineyard on Mount Meron?

Ben Haim: "Although we are a boutique winery and we could make do with buying grapes from external vineyards, but having your own vineyard gives you the ability to study it for a long time and ensure that it is treated as you want - especially when it is on Mount Meron, one of the best wine regions in the country. I do not know if it is related to Rabbi Shimon or not, but I will give you an example that is difficult for me to explain rationally.

"A few years ago I had a wine that started not so well, and in early tastings it did not take off. One customer actually wanted to buy the wine as a 'private label' at a certain price and we signed an agreement, and then Corona started and asked to cancel the deal. "I can sell the wine - although when there is no choice then pour - but when I tasted the wine again, it suddenly took a turn and surprised me with its quality. There is some karma or force majeure in this vineyard, which gave me back the wine I initially did not want at all."

Our recommendation - Cabernet Franc Reserve 2017 -

consists of 85% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot and 5% Petit Syrah.

The wine was aged for 24 months in barrels in Eric, 50% of which are new.

Burgundy-purple color, very fruity (black cherry and plum), pleasant herbaceous, coffee and a hint of vanilla.

The character of an old world in the background but on the palate is fresh, with good and pleasant acidity.

His body is broad but not heavy at all, and the alcohol is also mild (13.5% alcohol).

Beauty of wine.

(150 NIS).