It is nicknamed "the bubble" because it is so different from the rest of Israel. In Tel Aviv, veiled women rub shoulders with girls in Bikinis on the beach. The party is everywhere: on the roofs of buildings, in hidden courtyards, all along the avenue Rothschild. New cafes seem to be opening every day and the profusion of quality restaurants makes you dizzy. Asking a Tel Avivian for his top 5 best addresses is sure to add five more to the ones we just gave you! This offer would almost make you forget that it is also a cultural city, made for lovers of Bauhaus architecture, contemporary art (the Tel Aviv Museum of Art) and dance (follow the program of the Suzanne Dellal Center for Dance and Theater). Between beach and museum, hummus and gin and tonic,impossible to get bored!
The arrival
Ben Gurion Airport, located 15 km from Tel Aviv, has two terminals.
The main one, Terminal 3, is connected to the city center by train, faster and much cheaper than the taxi: count 13.50 shekels (3.5 €) to go to HaHagana (south of the city center), HaShalom (downtown), Savidor Center (north of downtown).
Please note, no public transport from Friday evening to Saturday evening (Shabbat).
Terminal 1, which receives low-cost international flights, is connected to Terminal 3 by a free shuttle (allow an extra half an hour).
The center of Tel Aviv, small and flat, is easy to explore on foot.
Cycling is the best way to go from neighborhood to neighborhood thanks to the cycle paths along the main boulevards, the coast and in the parks.
Self-service Tel-O-Fun bicycles can be found everywhere (48 shekels - 12 € for 3 days) as well as several providers of electric scooters (Bird, Wind, Lime).
MORE INFORMATIONS
Tel Aviv Tourist Office
At the moment !
TO HAVE
Calder: Great Yellow Sun
Alexander Calder,
Great Yellow Sun
, 1973. Gouache on paper, 74.6 × 109.5 cm.
2021 Calder Foundation, New York / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York
Until August 15, the Tel Aviv Museum of Art presents
Calder: Big Yellow Sun Jaune
, a retrospective of the singular work of Alexander Calder (1976-1898), one of the major artists of modernism in the twentieth century. .
The exhibition covers five decades of the master's creations, from his first pencil drawings to one of his latest mobiles, with a focus on a lesser-known aspect of his work: gouache paintings.
Calder: Great Yellow Sun, 27 Shaul HaMelech Blvd, Tel Aviv.
Admission € 12.75, until August 15, 2021. Open Tue-Wed 12 pm-6pm, Thu 12 pm-9pm, Fri 10 am-2pm, Sat 10 am-6pm, closed Sun-Mon.
THE RIGHT TABLE
OCD Restaurant
This restaurant located in a former warehouse in Jaffa (pronounced Yaffo) offers a rather
chutzpah
dining experience.
»(Cheeky in Hebrew): Chef Raz Rahav decides the whole meal! That's good, the master chef has good taste and especially the art of concocting inspired Israeli cuisine. The emphasis is on local and seasonal products, such as grilled fish with local lemon and dashi broth, kohlrabi risotto with white butter or sweet rose and pecan. The decor is minimalist chic, unpretentious: an open kitchen in exposed brick, and a counter around which the guests are seated. 16 to 20 dishes parade throughout the dinner (lunch on Friday), which lasts 2h30 to 3 hours. Everyone is served at the same time and tastes the same. Of course, each meal can be adjusted according to individual food sensitivities and allergies. Convincing! Full tasting menu € 99, excluding drinks.A word of advice: reserve.
OCD TLV, Tirtsa St 17, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3-556-6774.
THE HOTEL IN SIGHT
The Jaffa
The Jaffa, a new hotel in The Luxury Collection, Tel Aviv is a five-star property nestled in a restored 19th-century complex, which once housed the French Hospital in Jaffa.
Marriott / Press photo
Nestled in the heart of old Jaffa, the former 19th century French hospital is now a lavish five-star hotel owned by the Marriott group. The sober facade conceals an elegant courtyard punctuated by stone arches. A wall reminiscent of oriental moucharabiehs separates the old part from the modern part of the hotel. Nothing too much in the 120 rooms and suites, with light tones and high ceilings. Twenty of them reserve a marvelous view of the Mediterranean. We take our breakfast in the shade of oak trees. A jump in the swimming pool and one can escape in the alleys of Jaffa. Unique evening experience: sip a cocktail under the ribbed windows of the old painted chapel, transformed into a lounge bar. Swimming pool, spa, gym. From 450 € in a double room.
The Jaffa, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Louis Pasteur St 2, Tel Aviv-Yafo, 6803602, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 504 2000.
DAY 1: FROM SARONA TO NAHALAT BINYAMIN
Morning
The Tel Aviv Museum of Modern Art.
Eric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
To take the pulse of the city, let's start with a healthy and hearty breakfast at the
Bucke Cafe
on Ahad Ha'Am Street (bucke-cafe.com), a pleasant little bobo café (the term is not pejorative here!). Then we head to
the Tel Aviv Museum of Art
(tamuseum.org.il) for a culture bath. Among the 32,000 works in the collection, some nuggets: the mural by Roy Lichtenstein, the kinetic art of Yacoov Agam, but also of Klimt, Pollock, Gauguin, Picasso ... not to mention the superb
Jews praying in a synagogue on Yom Kippur
, by Maurycy Gottlieb. The museum offers 25 temporary exhibitions per year! Also admire the refined architecture, all in broken lines, of the new wing of the museum, signed Preston Scott Cohen. Two steps away, the
Sarona district
retains its old buildings at the foot of the glass buildings of the Azrieli Center.
Funny history is that of these houses, built in the 19th century by a pious movement of German Protestants, the Templars, and which subsequently served as the seat of the first Israeli government.
The buildings now house a historical museum, shops and restaurants.
Very lively at noon, when the neighboring business district takes a break for the median break.
Lunch break
Pastel, the restaurant of the Tel Aviv Museum of Modern Art.
Eric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
Your choice: a chic and shocking lunch at
Pastel
, the sublime contemporary restaurant housed in the Tel Aviv Museum of Art.
The talented chef Cobi Bachar revisits the stuffed cabbage and offers a seafood “chawarma” with tahini yogurt.
For dessert, do not miss its black sesame ice cream.
To be enjoyed in front of the museum's sculpture garden.
Another option: the
Sarona market
, a vast market hall where all the cuisines of the world are prepared before your eyes.
Try for example the “shawarma” of Segev Concept.
Delicious… and crowded at noon.
Afternoon
A house inspired by the Bauhaus style on Bialik Street.
Eric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
Between
Rothschild Boulevard
, the main axis of the city with its cafes and restaurants, and
Allenby Street
, we discover a host of Bauhaus buildings.
Tel Aviv has 4,000 in total, the largest collection of modern architecture in the world, listed by Unesco in 2003. Arrogant of immaculate elegance, the buildings nevertheless reflect the image of a bright and functional city.
The very recent
White City Center Liebling Haus
(whitecitycenter.org), in the mini-district of Bialik, allows you to better understand the rise of this architecture… and to visit a Bauhaus interior, a rarity.
Rothschild Boulevard.
Eric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
Bohemian chic atmosphere in the nearby
rue Sheinkin
, where the designer boutiques line up.
Then walk down Rothschild Boulevard to reach the Florentin district, invaded by artists, and stock up on oriental spices at
the Levinsky market
.
Read also: Israel: Tel Aviv in the footsteps of the Bauhaus
Aperitif and dinner
In
Nahalat Binyamin
Street
, Yaïr Yosefi concocts top-notch cuisine in his wine bistro, which is only
Brut in
name.
Bonito tartare, cabbage stuffed with lamb are drizzled with elegant whites and reds from Mount Carmel.
A favorite, warm and intimate address.
Right next door, Rima Olvera, at the
Oasis
, dares a fusion cuisine inspired by products brought from abroad by her friends!
Original and successful.
Later in the night
We stay on
Nahalat Binyamin
to join the trendy bohemian youth at
Bicicletta
, a charming bar which has its tables on the terrace, in a village square decor.
A few steps away, gin and tonic on the roof of
The Prince
, which is accessed by a tagged staircase.
We find the same young, friendly and arty fauna.
Another
skybar
, much higher, awaits us less than 10 minutes away, going up Allenby Street: the
Haiku
.
Perched atop the Lighthouse by Brown Hotel, the 360 ° view of the lights of Tel Aviv is splendid.
In summer, the roof is removed: we party under the stars, in the city!
As for drinks, recommend Mount Fuji, a clever mix of gin and sake.
DAY 2: FROM THE CARMEL MARKET TO JAFFA
Morning
The Carmel market or “Shouk Ha Carmel”. Eric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
Have it sold empty before you head to
the Carmel Market
(Sunday to Friday)! Located in the city center, it is a labyrinth of stalls of vegetables, fruits, spices among which slip "humoussiya", sellers of Yemeni cakes, Syrian biscuits and Iraqi sandwiches.
Delicious Israel
(deliciousisrael.com) offers exciting, off-the-beaten-path taste tours. The Friday crowd provides a happy atmosphere, which continues in the
Nahalat Binyamin craft market
, on the street of the same name (Tuesday and Friday). Old photos and kitsch baubles are to be gleaned among textile wholesalers. Rothschild Boulevard quickly leads us to
Neve Tzedek
, the historic district of Tel Aviv.
A quiet maze of low houses, crossed by the pleasant rue Shabazi, where the jewelers (our favorite: Agas and Tamar) and the art galleries line up.
Lunch break
The M25 Meat Market restaurant.
Eric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
On the edge of the Carmel Market, the
Yom Tov Cafe
serves tasty meals, made with fresh produce from the famous market.
To eat without fuss, at the table in the dining room or on the sidewalk.
Young and relaxed service, just like the customers.
For meat lovers, go to
M25
(m25meat.co).
Vegan enthusiasts will rather taste the delicious organic plates of
Meshek Barzilay
, one of the best addresses of its kind in town.
Afternoon
The Mediterranean seafront in Tel Aviv.
Eric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
Let's join the seaside to breathe the sea air.
With its 14 kilometers of beaches lined with palm trees and flashy buildings, Tel Aviv takes on the air of Mediterranean Miami Beach.
The cycle path pleasantly runs along the
seafront
to
old Jaffa
.
This predominantly Arab neighborhood is one of the oldest cities in Israel.
Lose yourself in its ocher alleys.
Sooner or later you will come across the
flea market
(every day except Saturday), between rue Yefet and rue Beit Eshel.
Old charm stands stand alongside attractive contemporary stores.
In bustling Nakhman Street, with cheerful cafes,
Asufa
(asufadesign.com) offers creative little souvenirs imagined by Israeli designers.
More qualitative,
Saga
(facebook.com/sagatlv), in rue Rabbi Pinckas, aims to be an art gallery and design store: ceramics, cushions, lighting, furniture: everything is
made in Israel
.
We find the beautiful silkscreen prints by Jonathan Reiner among the green plants of the adjoining Café Saga.
A pleasant break in old Jaffa.
Aperitif and dinner
At the end of the day, return to the promenade. At
Manta Ray
, a panoramic restaurant above Alma Beach, enjoy a margarita facing the sunset and the Jaffa Citadel. With one pedal stroke, reach HaTachana - The Station, a former late 19th century train station converted into a trendy shopping complex. The place has been concentrating the best of the
made in Tel Aviv
for a few years now.
We take the opportunity to take a gourmet break at Tash & Tasha (Georgian cuisine), or at the Barcelona-style tapas bar
Vicky Cristina
, the meeting place for
hipsters
from Neve Tsedek which reopens this summer.
For a gourmet dinner, head to
George & John
, the restaurant of the Drisco hotel.
Amberjack tartare, chopped octopus and Israeli riesling: refined and generous Mediterranean cuisine to be savored in a distinguished colonial setting.
End of the night
The night is long in Tel Aviv and there is no shortage of festive places.
Between Neve Tzedek and Florentin, the youth mix happily to dance in the vast open-air courtyard of the
Teder
, where concerts and DJ sets are broadcast on the radio.
Upstairs, a famous restaurant, the Romano.
More intimate, the elegant
Herzl 16
welcomes us to its pretty courtyard lined with greenery.
For those who are still hungry, excellent fusion cuisine to nibble on with an electro orientalist background.
The bars and clubs of
Rothschild Boulevard
are not far away.
Which ones to choose?
Follow a night tour of the best bars with the
Be Tel Aviv
agency
(betelavivtours.com).
Address Book
GOOD TABLES AND LITTLE HUNGER
Please note, many establishments are closed on Saturdays, during Shabbat.
Pastel, 27 Sderot Sha'ul Hamelech, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: + 972 3 644 7441.
Brut, Nahalat Binyamin St 36, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 510 2923.
Oasis, Montefiore St 17, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 620 6022.
Yom Tov, Yom Tov St 30, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 969 2434.
Meshek Barzilay, Ahad Ha'Am St 6, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 516 6329.
Manta Ray, Nahum Goldmann St 4, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 517 4774.
Vicky Cristina, HaTachana, Tel Aviv's Old Railway Station, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 736 7272.
George & John, Auerbach St 6, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 741 0000.
GO OUT, GET A GLASS
Whiskey Bar & Museum, Rav Aluf David Elazar St 27, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 955 1105.
Bicicletta, Nahalat Binyamin St 29, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 643 3097.
The Prince, Nahalat Binyamin St 18, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 58 606 1818.
Haiku Skybar, Lighthouse Hotel, Ben Yehuda St 3, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 766 0500.
Teder, Derech Jaffa 9, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 571 9622.
Herzl 16, Herzl St 16, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 554 4300.
WHERE TO SLEEP IN TEL AVIV?
The Vera Hotel
The Vera Hotel is a small boutique hotel with 40 rooms.
The Vera Hotel / Photo press
This small boutique hotel with 40 rooms is an excellent base, very well located at the crossroads of Rothschild Boulevard, the Neve Tzedek district and that of Florentin.
Pleasant atmosphere, warm and trendy without excess, thanks to the decoration drawn from local artisans.
Pleasant rooftop terrace for doing yoga in the morning.
Loan of bikes.
From 187 € in a double room.
The Vera Hotel, Lilienblum St 27, Tel Aviv-Yafo, 6513102, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 778 3800.
The Setai
Listed as a historical monument, this former Ottoman prison invites you to stay in the shade ... The exceptional location on the sea and the port of Jaffa, the cachet of old stones, the vaults of the bar, everything contributes to making this hotel (one of the Leading Hotels of the World) a luxury resort.
A panoramic swimming lane, a hairdressing salon, a spa and an Ottoman-inspired restaurant, the Jaya.
Only the decoration of the rooms would have deserved a little more daring.
From € 545 in a double room.
The Setai, David Razi'el St 22, Tel Aviv-Yafo, 6802919, Israel.
Phone.
+972 3 601 6000.
Brown TLV Urban Hotel
In the Brown hotel family, I ask for the most urban and trendy: 30 slightly dark rooms, but a beautiful lobby lined with a patio with a clever retro decor, and a roof terrace with jacuzzi and a lovely view of the sea and the city center.
Perfect for couples.
From € 234 in a double room.
Brown TLV Urban Hotel, Kalischer St 25, Yafo, 6516505, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 974 7045.
The Drisco Hotel Tel Aviv
The Drisco Tel Aviv consists of two historic buildings, originally built in 1866 by American settlers.
The Drisco Hotel Tel Aviv / Photo press
Created in 1866, 40 years before the founding of Tel Aviv, this American hotel was forgotten for 50 years before experiencing a renaissance in 2010: restoration in the rules of the art, then classification in 5 stars to join the Leading Hotels of the World.
Attractive Ottoman touches in the 42 rooms and suites, some with sea views. Quiet neighborhood: appreciable in Tel Aviv!
From € 261 in a double room.
The Drisco, Auerbach St 6, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 741 0000.
65 Hotel Tel Aviv
Central, comfortable and pleasant… This 74-room hotel located on Rothschild Boulevard offers easy access to the city center.
We appreciate the smiling staff, the rich and varied breakfast (one of the best in town) and the
happy hour
which allows you to nibble graciously bites, wines and coffee.
From € 213 in a double room.
65 Hotel Tel Aviv, Rothschild Blvd 65, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel.
Phone.
: +972 3 767 7677.