It is Isabel Marant who gave
the
word for Loïc Prigent's program: "
the defilmé
". Or a parade without an audience, filmed and broadcast on the internet. While the sector has adapted to health measures, the crisis has claimed more than one victim: the Fashion Weeks in New York and London, which have been reduced to pity; Milan focused on a handful of designers and Paris saw the number of its shows halved (70 in September 2020 against 30 in March 2021), weakened by the desertion of Kering brands. The capital is doing well despite everything, pulled by its big houses and the crazy figures of luxury "made in France", including "
Hermès sales, reaching 6.4 billion euros (...) and a growth of 47% in Asia-
Pacific, in the last quarter of 2020
», Recalls Prigent in voiceover.
To discover
Discover our file on Napoleon's bicentenary
"I asked to go to the Moon, but my marketing team said: 'Olivier, no, that would be too expensive'"
Olivier Rousteing, Balmain
So much for the background. But the camera does not give up and runs from the filming locations to the studios of the young shoots. Subtitled "La Grande Évasion", this "52 minutes of fashion" compiles, with humor and tenderness, the trends of the season. We thus want to escape, like Olivier Rousteing, at Balmain, who, after watching all
Star Trek
during confinement, shot his show on the wings of an airplane ("
J ' asked to go to the moon, but my marketing team said: “Olivier, no, that would be too expensive”
”). We have the historic sets for LVMH: Celine in Vaux-le-Vicomte, Dior in Versailles, Louis Vuitton in the Louvre. And on all the "catwalks", color, like therapy, "
lilacs, red, pink, neon pink, hot pink, coral, tangerine, vermilion…
”
Loïc Prigent and his cult voiceover deciphers the season's trends in 52 fashion minutes.
TMC
It was also an evocation of the party through collections filmed in nightclubs (Chanel chez Castel) for “party girls
”
(Lanvin, Paco Rabanne) and queer cabaret birds (Del Core and Victor Weinsanto).
A party with a bright future: fashion in its entirety has straddled the eco-responsible hobbyhorse, from Benjamin Benmoyal, self-taught weaver of VHS tapes, to the activist Antonin Tron, from Atlein, denouncing the excesses of a certain "greenwashing" with these factories manufacturing plastic bottles… to better recycle them.
The journalist also crosses paths with Alber Elbaz filming the first collection of his new brand, AZ Factory. Equipped with two superimposed masks, he laughs at his hypochondria. Loïc Prigent had already set up the show when we learned of the couturier's disappearance on April 24.
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