Conil de la Frontera
is a bit of the Atlantic, another bit of almadraba, a pinch of the east and endless whitewashed walls that reflect the characteristic light of this corner of Cadiz. It was born when, at the end of the 13th century, King Sancho IV of Castile gave Don Alonso Pérez de Guzmán permission to catch tuna in the area and
the first trap
was created
. Under the protection of this traditional fishing technique, a
maze of streets
was built
around the old castle
, in the same way that fishermen draw a tangle of nets to catch these silver fish. And just like the awesome
lift
of the trap is made exclusively with the strength of man, Conil rose thanks to the persistence of the same people of the sea.
Today that same sea has transformed it into a town of about 23,000 inhabitants, with a tourist influx thanks to its
endless beaches
, the
suggestive local cuisine
and that
essence of a fishing village
that it still conserves.
9.00.
Churros to go
The churros of
La Chana
(calle de Pascual Junquera, 5)
(1)
are almost an institution in Conil since the current Chana's grandmother started making them in a small stall in 1945. Of course, they are to take away, so you have to taste them walking.
If you want something with a greater variety, a few meters away is
La Desayunería de Floren
(Pascual Junquera, 13)
(2)
, where its varied toasts triumph and you can choose between vegan and gluten-free menus, as well as sweet or savory options.
10.00.
Tribute to Saramago
It is time to enter the essence of the place; the smell of the sea, the white facades and the streets full of geraniums, carnations and bougainvilleas. The best way to do it is through the
Puerta de la Villa (3)
, formerly called Puerta de Vejer since from there the road to the neighboring town began. It is the only one of the four entrances to the old wall that is still preserved, although with modifications to its original appearance. When you cross it, you enter the
Plaza de España,
where, sitting on a stone bench, awaits the peculiar tribute to the Portuguese writer José Saramago, represented in a bronze statue that reads the following lines to a child: it touches on duty, responsibility and, why not say it, the glory of leading humanity to happiness ”.
If you continue going down, letting yourself be carried away by the smell of saltpeter, you will reach
Plaza de Santa Catalina (4)
, which was once the Plaza Mayor and where the charms now accumulate. To one side, a pristine wall covered with flowerpots; opposite, the homonymous church, and closing the square, the Guzmán tower. The
church of Santa Catalina (5)
, converted into a cultural center, has undergone various renovations since it was built in the 15th century and little remains of the original. The opposite that happens with its neighbor, the
Guzmán tower,
origin and nucleus of Conil;
so much so that for a time the monument gave its name to the town.
When it was built in the 13th century, this sandstone tower was part of the Guzmán el Bueno castle, which served both to defend the town and to guard the trap.
Today, from the top, it offers one of the best views of the town.
The large nets with which bluefin tuna is caught are attached to the seabed by large anchors.
As it is not trawling, the seabed does not degrade.
alamy
12.00.
Seafaring memory
If the future of this town is linked to the sea and tuna, then
La Chanca
(6)
is the center of its history.
In this building, with a certain military appearance, the ships and equipment of the trap were kept, and the tuna was also processed and salted for four centuries.
After its remodeling, it treasures an exhibition hall, a library and a documentation center that is a true walk through the memory of the ancient art of the trap -especially in the
Warehouse of Pertrechos-
and the importance of tuna in this area -in the
Warehouse of Salt
-.
Ideally, take a guided tour and then wander aimlessly imagining the bustle of fishermen in its central courtyard.
14.00.
Show cooking!
So much to mention the tuna and at this time even without trying it.
To solve it,
Cooking Almadraba (7)
, in the Plaza de Blas Infante, more than fulfills what its suggestive name promises.
With the kitchen in public view, he wants to go a step further when it comes to tuna.
Another specialist in tuna, although it does not neglect the typical retinto meats of the area, is
El Roqueo
(8)
, which distinguishes between restaurant, viewpoint and beach bar, all competing in views over the homonymous beach.
16.00.
An ice cream in front of the sea
The time has come for the appointment with the Atlantic that has so marked the history of Conil. The best way to meet him is by visiting the beaches of the town, from the wildest of
Castilnovo (9)
, where its watchtower stands out and its almost three kilometers long, until, after crossing the Salado river, the longest and most urban of all,
Los Bateles (10)
; the small
Roqueo
beach
(11)
, the familiar
Fontanilla
beach
(12)
and the cozy
Fuente del Gallo
beach
(13)
, three kilometers from the center. If the walk whets your appetite or the heat is pressing, nothing like a creamy ice cream from
La Delizia
(building San Carlos, 2, avenida de la Playa)
(14)
.
One of the coves of Roche.
JL VEGA getty images
19.00.
Occases in nature
Some eight kilometers from Conil are the
coves of Roche (15)
: six secluded inlets in which to take shelter if the east wakes up and that can be traveled from the first to the last if the low tide is used.
In addition to offering a desired environment for nudists and seekers of a stony intimacy between the cliffs and cliffs, they are a magnificent setting in which to marvel at one of the best sunsets in the area.
22.00.
Dinner at the port
Afterwards, you can take advantage of the last bits of daylight to contemplate the view offered by the
Roche lighthouse (16)
, cornered between the immensity of the Atlantic Ocean and a vast expanse of pine forests.
Under this watchtower that he lit his lantern in 1986 is
El Náutico
(600 21 19 15)
(17)
, with an excellent fish menu and a privileged location in the same port.
Pure essence of Conil de la Frontera.
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