Less than a week after revealing his first collection for Diesel, Glenn Martens is back, this time for Y / Project.
“
This season, for the first time, we had time.
It's nice to have six months to create a collection: it allows us to push our experiments further, on lots of different categories, ”he
explains a few days before unveiling his presentation video on Sunday.
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Its spring-summer 2022 consists of a mixed wardrobe filled with innovative ideas and crossed by a collaboration with the legendary Italian equipment manufacturer Fila.
“
My mother was quite conservative, so I wasn't allowed to wear joggers when I was young,”
smiles the designer.
But it was an incredibly popular brand in Belgium, especially with gabber enthusiasts
(hardcore techno fans, editor's note)
.
I really wanted to, because I wanted to be part of this band! ”
The collaboration between Y / Project and Fila was unveiled today Y / PROJECT
In men, his version of Fila therefore borrows irreparably from the 1990s and this Flemish re-appropriation of the transalpine sportswear aesthetic, with tracksuits with logos and ingenious press-stud systems, allowing the garment to be modulated. On the feet, a revised and corrected version of an iconic silhouette of the Italian brand, the Grant Hill (named after the former basketball player, gold medalist at the Atlanta Olympic Games in 1996). In women, the silhouette is athletic but sexy, with a Björn Borg polo shirt worn close to the body and slightly short, and a kind of pants imitating a long slit skirt, revealing red tights, and tennis mini-dress over sports socks. Tabi high and court shoes (that is, with the thumb separated from the other toes).
A dress with organza details can be worn in several ways Y / PROJECT
Unaccustomed to logos, the Belgian has nevertheless introduced them this season.
“
Since I knew we were going to show the capsule with Fila, I kind of wanted to set the stage.”
For the rest, we recognize the Y / Project touch in its unique way of offering clothes that can be arranged as desired by the wearer, like works with which the customer is forced to interact.
"
We have worked a lot around ties, notably offering dresses and tops where you can slide your head in different places, to show more or less skin",
Martens laughs.
In the same idea, we find very attractive cocktail dresses in jersey with double pan that can be worn straight or draped, with a set of buttons, and others, in organza, that can be tightened with cords.
“
Every season, we produce a few dresses that could be worn on red carpets, like this one, in fleece.
But strangely, that never happens! ”
Smiles, ironically, the creator.
Loose fit, double-waisted jeans pair with Y / Project acid-tinted shirts
The focus is on the “Evergreen” project, launched two seasons ago. A collection of permanent pieces, in eco-friendly fabrics, always available for sale and never on sale. These are very successful jeans, pants with reinforcements on the knees inspired by work clothes. But also white shirts, worn loose. A slightly wiser version of the explosive creation of Y / Project which appeals to more and more people. But with a twist still present: sometimes, an off-center size, sometimes, a zip where you would usually find buttons. “
I will never be able to do a simple piece at Y / Project. A silly printed T-shirt, that's just not us! ”
And that's good: thanks to his unparalleled inventiveness, each appointment with the Glenn Martens label is an exciting fashion moment.
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