Morocco: from oases to kasbahs, the nuggets of the Drâa valley

From Agdz to M'hamid El Ghizlane, the Drâa valley is home to one of the largest oases in Morocco. A unique ecosystem, classified as a biosphere reserve by Unesco, where the inhabitants perpetuate an ancestral agricultural tradition. If you dream of going green, a stay in the shade of palm trees will do you the greatest good! You will discover the slow rhythm of local life: harvest of dates, figs and almonds, peasants maintaining the irrigation canals (

seguias

), women grinding henna with stone grindstones ... These daily scenes will transport you to another time .

A former caravan route linking Timbuktu to the cities of Morocco, the Drâa valley is rich in culture and history.

Its kasbahs and ancient ksours are among the most beautiful in the country and will impress you with their adobe architecture.

At the end of the tar, the last gardens give way to the Saharan immensities.

In the ocher dunes of Erg Lihoudi or the endless expanses of Lake Iriki, the magic of the desert awaits you at the end of the road.

Read also: Morocco opens its borders, but can we travel there?

Agdz and its majestic kasbahs

Your stay in the oasis of Agdz will make you discover the daily life of the inhabitants.

Guest houses Agdz / Tamnougalt

70 km south of Ouarzazate, Agdz marks the starting point of the most beautiful part of the Drâa valley. Built at the foot of Jebel Kissane culminating at 1600 meters, the city dominates the wadi and its immense palm grove. The ocher mountain and the date palms immediately immerse you in the local colors. The historic district of Aslim is home to magnificent mud kasbahs. Jewels of Berber architecture, the kasbahs are the former places of residence of the caïds, the chiefs of local tribes. Built in the 18th century, the Kasbah Caïd Ali is part of the national heritage of Morocco. The descendants of the Caïd offer tours to learn all about the architecture and history of the place. Next door, the Kasbah des Arts has been converted into a guest house. It is also worth the detour for its superb panoramic view.Several charming accommodations are located in the heart of the oasis, ideal for a nature stay!

Kasbah Caïd Ali.

Phone.

: 00212 698 906 550, 25 dirhams (DH), or 2.3 € for a guided tour.

Kasbah des Arts.

Phone.

: 00212 668 519 552, 25 DH.

• Our advice

For a guided tour of the palm grove, call on Abdou Kamili, a local expert guide.

Phone.

: 00 212 662 404 297.

Tizgui waterfall

The Tizgui waterfall, an island of freshness nestled in the arid mountains.

Guest houses Agdz / Tamnougalt

If the heat makes you want to take a dip, don't miss this lovely waterfall nestled in a narrow canyon.

A dozen kilometers from Agdz in the direction of Ouarzazate, a road branches off to the right and crosses a mineral and arid landscape.

After 30 minutes, you arrive in this little heavenly setting.

You will bathe in a pretty pool surrounded by oleanders, in the shade of the immense rock walls.

Once refreshed, go visit Omar, the keeper.

He will offer you the traditional Moroccan mint tea, for a few dirhams for the maintenance of the waterfall.

• Our advice

If you have rented a car, you can go alone.

The road is paved and the place is well signposted.

If you are not motorized, you can take a taxi in Agdz or have an excursion organized by your accommodation.

Count around 900 DH (84 €) for 2 people for a day with a guide, the return taxi and a picnic.

Read also: From Ouarzazate to Merzouga, our most beautiful stages in southern Morocco

The old ksar of Tamnougalte

The ksar of Tamnougalte rises above the Drâa river and its verdant palm grove.

ONMT

6 km from Agdz on the national 9, the

ksar

of Tamnougalte rises above a carpet of green palm trees. Historical capital of the Berber tribe of Mezguita, Tamnougalte has occupied a strategic position along the Drâa river. Built in the 16th century, its fortified mud village is one of the oldest and best preserved in the valley. Stroll through the maze of alleys and admire the finesse of the traditional Amazigh architecture, then visit the old Casbah of the Caïd. Inhabited until the 1960s, it has been converted into a museum. In front of the ksar, you will see another casbah perched on a rocky promontory. It is abandoned but offers a breathtaking view of the surroundings. This magical setting has hosted the shooting of several films,including

Babel

by Alejandro González Iñárritu and

Un thé au Sahara

by Bernardo Bertolucci.

• Our advice

The visit of the ksar is free and can be done alone, except for the Kasbah of the Caïd whose entry is paying.

If you wish, a guide office offers tours of the ksar for 25 DH (2.3 €).

You will find it in the village square.

Phone.

: 00212 667 345 602.

The rock site of Foum Chenna

The rock site of Foum Chenna is home to one of the largest concentrations of engravings of Libyco-Berber riders in Morocco.

Bala khalid

54 km south of Tamnougalte by following the N9, you arrive at the village of Tinzouline. About seven kilometers to the west, the Foum Chenna site is home to one of the largest concentrations of rock carvings in the Moyen-Drâa valley. Over a length of about 800 meters, a vertical rock face is covered with more than 2,500 figures. There you will see hundreds of Libyco-Berber horsemen armed with a round shield or a spear, participating in war scenes or hunting antelopes, gazelles and oryx. Other engravings represent felines, dromedaries and ostriches. The importance of this site is also explained by the presence of 88 inscriptions in the Libyan alphabet, from which the modern Berber languages ​​originate. This makes it the most important rock library in Morocco.

• Our advice

If you have hired a 4x4, you can get there on your own.

The site is open access.

If you are not motorized, it is best to hire a guide.

Based in the region, Mohamed Sbai knows the site well and organizes day trips from Zagora, M'hamid or Ouarzazate.

Phone.

or Whatsapp: 00 212 668 167 918. On site, be careful not to touch the walls.

These engravings are fragile.

Read also: Ouarzazate, four good reasons to go

Zagora and the ksar of Amezrou

Zagora was once a stopover on the caravan route loaded with salt and gold from Timbuktu.

Adobe Stock / Catherine

Its legendary sign indicating "Timbuktu 52 days" recalls that Zagora was once a stopover on the caravan route loaded with salt and gold from Timbuktu. Today, it is the administrative center of the Drâa valley. The ideal is to spend there Wednesday or Sunday to attend its abundant souk. The peasants and the nomads come from far to offer their goods: wheat, fruits, vegetables, cattle and especially the succulent dates of the region. You will also find a large selection of crafts.

2 km away, the ksar of Amezrou is a beautiful fortified village dating from the 18th century.

Admire its mosque with its tall mud tower and visit its old synagogue.

The ksar hosted a large Jewish community specializing in crafts.

In the old mellah remains an ancestral know-how of jewelry.

You can visit the craftsmen's workshops and why not, treat yourself to one of these silver or bronze jewels decorated with geometric or floral motifs.

• Our advice

For an original visit to Zagora, treat yourself to a mountain bike excursion!

Nature and hiking guide, Lahcen Ahansal will take you on the secret paths of the palm grove and the most beautiful viewpoints in the area.

Count 700 DH (65 €) the day, guide, bike and food included.

Phone.

or WhatsApp: 00 212 661 311 471.

Tamegroute, temple of manuscripts and pottery

Tamegroute pottery is renowned for its multiple shades of green.

Adobe Stock / Gianmaria

About twenty kilometers from Zagora by the N9, this village is renowned for its unique pottery with elegant shades of green.

This characteristic color is obtained thanks to an alloy of manganese and copper oxide.

About fifteen families perpetuate this ancestral technique.

You cannot miss them: each store exhibits its pieces on the side of the road.

Vases, bowls, trays, there is something for everyone.

Count for example 25 DH the soup bowl.

Even if you don't buy, go visit the workshops to learn about the manufacturing steps.

Tamegroute is also essential for its Koranic library founded in the 17th century.

With 4000 manuscripts, the oldest of which are nearly 1000 years old, it is one of the most famous libraries in Morocco.

His works on astrology, medicine, history or poetry still attract students.

• Our advice

Free entry.

Someone welcomes you and explains the history of the library.

Leave a few dirhams as a tip.

Open every day except at lunchtime.

Contact Youssef.

Phone: 00212 670 023 812.

Read also: Street food: five savory delicacies to savor on the go in Morocco

The dunes of Tinfou

The camel ride, a classic in the Moroccan desert.

ONMT

They seem to have landed there as if by magic.

The surprising dunes of Tinfou emerge alone in the middle of a plateau surrounded by mountains.

If you fancy a taste of the desert and don't have time to head further south, Tinfou is for you.

With ridges culminating at 120 meters, these dunes will offer you your first Saharan sensations.

The ideal is to come at the end of the day, when the sand takes on a soft orange hue.

Camel drivers on site offer camel rides.

Very touristy atmosphere, but if you've never been on these famous "desert vessels", this is your chance to try!

• Our advice

Tinfou is located 11 kilometers from Tamegroute by following the National 9. No 4x4 is needed, a passenger car is sufficient.

You will see the dunes from the road.

If you are not motorized, a taxi will take you from Tamegroute.

M'hamid El Ghizlane, the gateway to the Sahara

Around M'hamid El Ghizlane, fixed bivouacs allow you to spend the night in the heart of the dunes.

Lahcen Ahansal

From M'hamid, it is the end of the tar and the beginning of the desert.

The Drâa wadi disappears into the arid expanses and the last palm trees sink into the sand dunes.

Several directions are available to you: 12 km from M'hamid, Erg Lihoudi is a small dune complex where you can go alone, provided you have a 4x4.

Fixed bivouacs allow you to sleep there.

If you dream of wide open spaces, the best is to go as far as Erg Chegaga, the largest set of dunes in Morocco.

Then completely change the atmosphere by continuing to Iriki, a dry lake where you will meet gazelles, oryx and nomads with their camels.

45 kilometers of flat 360 ° desert, where your 4x4 will trace as fast as on tar.

Adventure scent guaranteed!

• Our guide

Chegaga and Iriki are remote areas where you need a guide.

Many agencies in Zagora or M'hamid will organize the excursion of your choice, in 4x4, quad or camel.

Allow around 1000 DH / day (93 €) for the rental of a 4x4 with guide and 500 DH / hour (47 €) for a quad.

The fixed bivouacs range from 500 DH per night with dinner and breakfast to 3000 DH (280 €) for the most luxurious.

SEE THE FILE

- Morocco: the

Figaro

travel guide

GO

Currently, the easiest way is to land in Casablanca and then take a domestic flight.

RAM operates flights Casablanca - Ouarzazate (located 70 km from Agdz), and Casablanca - Zagora, a city located in the heart of the Drâa valley.

Before the coronavirus pandemic, the Moroccan company offered direct flights Paris - Ouarzazate during the winter season.

The resumption of this link is under study for the winter of 2021/2022.

Otherwise, you can land in Marrakech then join Agdz by road (allow 5 hours for the 260 km).

WHICH SEASON TO CHOOSE?

The best season is from October to mid-May. Daytime temperatures vary between 17 and 27 ° C. Winter is sunny but the nights are cold. Equip yourself properly if you are bivouacking. Summer is to be avoided. The temperatures are scorching, especially down the valley as the desert approaches.