Every time the sun shines on La Rochelle, an almost southern sweetness of life invades the prefecture of Charente-Maritime.
Animated in all seasons thanks to its ports - trade, fishing or pleasure -, its universities and its cultural life, the city has a well-deserved tourist success.
Read also: La Rochelle, a committed Atlantic city
The arrival
La Rochelle is located 70 km west of Niort, 140 km south of Nantes and 190 km north of Bordeaux.
By
TGV
, allow around 3 hours from Paris Montparnasse or 2h30 by Intercités train from Bordeaux and Nantes.
By
plane
, La Rochelle - Ile de Ré airport offers regular connections to Lyon (with Chalair), Nice and Geneva (both with EasyJet).
MOVE ON SITE
Made up of narrow streets, the city center can be discovered mainly on foot, taking the time to stroll under its arcades.
The Old Port, which is very busy during the season, is closed to cars.
Many car parks allow you to park not far from the center, such as those in Saint-Jean-d'Acre or Encan.
To reach the port of Minimes, cycling is a good option: there are several rental companies in the Gabut district, including Cycling Tour and Greenbike.
Called Yelo, the municipal self-service bicycle system has 500 cycles deployed at 100 stations (app to download, count € 0.50 / 30 min).
Finally, an electric sea bus allows you to shuttle between the port of Minimes and the Old Port while enjoying the view of the towers of La Rochelle (ticket: € 3).
More informations
La Rochelle tourist office: larochelle-tourisme.com
Charentes Tourist Office: infiniment-charentes.com
At the moment
TO DO
A major event, the Francofolies - which will take place from July 10 to 14, 2021 - should not eclipse the other events, organized throughout the year: the International Fema Film Festival, the Grand Pavois nautical show or the Jazz Festival between the two towers, there is something for everyone.
Added to this are the rich programming of La Coursive - a theater with the Scène Nationale label - and La Sirène, which distills the best of current, French or international music.
TO HAVE
The natural history museum
For the summer of 2021, the basement of the museum is hosting the exhibition “Whales, from Bangudae to La Rochelle” which takes visitors to the discovery of the king of marine mammals and questions his relationship to man. We fell in love with this remarkable museum, which is housed in an 18th century mansion with a botanical garden. Weathered over the centuries, the interior decor has a unique charm with its wooden display cabinets, majestic stairs and sloping ceilings. We discover a large collection of stuffed animals, forming striking assemblies. But the Museum also contains a magnificent ethnographic collection made up of more than 1,000 objects from all over the world: Amazonian adornments, Oceanian totems, African masks, etc.
La Rochelle Natural History Museum, 28 rue Albert-1er, 17000 La Rochelle.
Phone.
: 05 46 41 18 25. Open every day from 10 am to 7 pm, except Monday.
THE HOTEL IN SIGHT
The House of Ambassadors
The lobby of the hotel La Maison des Ambassadeurs.
The House of Ambassadors / Press photo
Nestled in the heart of the city center, this eminently comfortable hotel has just received a facelift.
Its new decoration is inspired by the life of Albert Bodard, a La Rochelle diplomat from the beginning of the 20th century, long in post in the Far East.
Model ships, exotic furniture and travelers' trunks invade the lobby, with its elegant bar, large armchairs and a beautiful fireplace.
Distributed between a 17th century building and a more modern structure, the 58 rooms are particularly elegant with their delicate colored touches, like the blue zelliges decorating the bathrooms.
An outdoor swimming pool, spa and sauna allow you to unwind.
The House of Ambassadors, 43 rue du Minage, 17000 La Rochelle.
Phone.
: 05 46 28 06 00. Rooms from 150 €.
THE RIGHT TABLE
Chris's Yole
The contemporary interior and the terrace with sea view of La Yole de Chris.
Sylvie curty
It is one of the only restaurants in La Rochelle located by the beach, offering a spectacular view of Les Minimes and the Ile d'Oléron.
A real happiness at sunset.
With this annex, Christopher Coutanceau - three-starred chef whose parent company is located just behind - wanted to open a maritime bistro that is both chic and relaxed, offering a glimpse of his talent.
Oysters from the Île de Ré, lean tartare, Charentaise mouclade, monkfish cooked over a wood fire and even grilled turbot, everyone will find what they are looking for.
Coming only from small boats, the fish is certified “sustainable fishing”.
La Yole de Chris, 5 allée du Mail, 17000 La Rochelle.
Phone.
: 05 46 41 41 88. Dinner 40 to 50 €.
DAY 1: FROM THE OLD PORT TO MINIMES, BY THE WATERFRONT
Morning
The towers marking the entrance to the port.
La-rochelle-tourism-agency-the-storytellers-271
Impossible to start the visit of La Rochelle otherwise.
Since the Middle Ages, the
Old Port
and its historic basin have been the city's nerve center, the source of its wealth and reputation.
Begin the discovery of the port at the foot of
the Grosse Horloge
, a tower pierced by an arch and surmounted by a bell tower.
It delimits the port and the city center.
Go up the Cours des Dames in the shade of its lime trees then join the powerful
Tower of the Chain
. Originally, it was mainly used to defend the port and to close it at night with a heavy chain. His visit allows us to learn a little more about the conditions of the siege of La Rochelle, which opposed the inhabitants - mostly Protestants - to the troops of Richelieu, in 1627-1628. On leaving, you have to walk along the unusual "street on the walls" perched on the old ramparts to reach the Lantern tower. Topped by an elegant spire in flamboyant Gothic style, it has long played the role of semaphore to guide boats returning to the port. It was then transformed into a prison: moving paintings by convicts bear witness to this period. Then return to the Old Port by taking the elegant rue Saint-Jean-du-Pérot,which is full of good restaurants and lively bars.
Unlike the Old Port, the floating basin is not affected by the tides thanks to its locks.
Notice the curious lighthouse installed between the houses of the Quai Valin before joining the
Saint-Nicolas tower
, at the end of the quays.
This defensive tower resembling a medieval fortress housed the garrisons responsible for defending the port and their captain.
We reach the beautiful perched terrace of the tower through sumptuous vaulted rooms and even a chapel.
Lunch break
Placed at the water's edge, the
Merluberlu
terrace
offers a spectacular view of the Old Port and the towers of La Rochelle.
You can taste fresh and colorful cuisine, largely oriented towards the sea: oysters from the Ile de Ré, lean local fishing line, whole sea bass or octopus in squid ink, you can enjoy yourself.
As a bonus, a service that is as efficient as it is relaxed.
Afternoon
After the meal, take a short walk in the amazing Gabut district, which looks like a Scandinavian village.
Its former boat repair shops, painted in motley colors, were transformed into housing and shops in the 1990s.
Set up on the edge of the trawler basin in 2001, the
La Rochelle aquarium
ranks among the most important of its kind in Europe. We admire nearly 12,000 marine animals belonging to 600 different species, divided between 82 different ecosystems. His stars? About twenty sharks but also sea turtles, coral reef fish and piranhas, visible in the suffocating tropical greenhouse. Those who would not be tempted by the aquarium will lash towards the
Maritime Museum
, installed opposite the auction. This fascinating establishment is located between exhibition spaces on the quayside and several ships afloat, notably the France 1, a former meteorological frigate. The city's port history is nicely presented, with a focus on the former German submarine base at the port of La Palice. The interactive Ocean Climate exhibition offers a reflection on the future of the oceans and their preservation. Before leaving, be sure to have a drink on the upper deck of
France 1
.
Then return to the entrance channel of the port, along the Michel Crépeau quay, to reach the gigantic port of Minimes, the largest on the Atlantic coast.
A true floating city, which will not only fascinate fans of sailing.
Gourmets will end the walk with a break at the artisanal glacier
Tonton Maboule
, which makes very original ice cream and sorbets.
Aperitif and dinner
Back in the Old Port, climb the
Terrasse de la Chaîne
planted on a bastion of the tower of the same name.
A magnificent view of the entrance channel of the port, the Saint-Nicolas tower and the Lantern tower awaits you.
On the menu, a few local beers, pastis from Île de Ré and cocktails made with cognac.
Head to the Saint-Nicolas district, a former sailor's haunt now frequented by students.
Le Panier de Crabes restaurant
, located on a delicious square shaded by a paulownia, serves generous platters of seafood at unbeatable prices.
Oysters from Île de Ré, langoustines from La Cotinière, whelks, shrimps or crabs, the products are always of high quality.
A small selection of Charentaise pork can accompany these iodized flavors.
To read also: Charente-Maritime: the little corners of paradise of the conductor Julien Masmondet
DAY 2: THE WONDERS OF THE HISTORICAL HEART
Morning
Start the day in the best possible way by strolling the alleys of the attractive
covered market
under the 19th century Halles in the heart of the Old Town. Open every morning and every day of the year until 1:30 p.m. It is full of exceptional products, starting with seafood and fish from the Charentais sluices. There are many oyster producers there: some offer small tasting counters, the opportunity to learn about the differences between “fines de claire”, “specials” and “push-in-clear”.
A few steps away, history buffs will visit
the German bunker at La Rochelle
.
Built at the start of World War II, it accommodated soldiers staying in the nearby hotel during air attacks.
There is still a command office, old dormitories and a curious bar whose ceiling has been decorated with frescoes.
Films, photos and documents allow us to learn more about this unusual place that has remained unchanged for 80 years.
Lunch break
Not far from the market, the dining cellar
Le rouge aux Lèvres
offers friendly bistro cuisine, prepared with perfectly sourced products: charcuterie by Eric Ospital, cheeses from Epicurium (famous cheese maker from La Rochelle), vegetables from local market gardeners, fish in direct from the La Rochelle auction.
You can taste a melon gazpacho, fish rillettes, a lean papillote or even a regressive mashed sausage.
To accompany these celebrations, a solid selection of organic or natural wines, sometimes from the region.
Afternoon
The superb Renaissance town hall.
OT La Rochelle
Devote this moment to one of the two magnificent museums located not far from the market. The
New World Museum
retraces the maritime epic of La Rochelle, without ignoring its involvement in the triangular trade. Housed in a superb mansion that once belonged to a family of shipowners, the museum is full of exceptional furniture and precious decorations: clocks decorated with characters, exotic wood secretary and panoramic wallpapers.
When leaving the museums, take the direction of Place de Verdun and take a break at the
Café de la Paix
, frequented in its time by Georges Simenon.
Its pretty 19th century decor is listed as a historical monument.
We then reach the superb Renaissance town hall which, after suffering a terrible fire in 2013, has just been completely renovated.
If the exterior looks like a fortress, its courtyard reveals an elegant Renaissance gallery.
Nearby, the Hôtel de la Bourse offers superb classical architecture.
Crossing its courtyard, you will come to a district with incredible charm studded with mansions.
Do not miss to walk the rue de l'Escale, perhaps the most attractive in the city.
Having dinner
Direction
Les Flots
, the gourmet restaurant of Grégory Coutanceau, brother of Christopher.
Located at the foot of the Chain Tower, this former 18th century tavern has a pleasant contemporary decor, extended by a large terrace overlooking the port.
On the menu, modern and tasty cuisine, where seafood is in the spotlight.
Charentaise recipes are brilliantly reinterpreted, sometimes enriched with exotic influences.
This program can easily be supplemented with a few trips into the surrounding area: an afternoon cycling to Châtelaillon-Plage, a day on the Île d'Aix, a stay on the Île de Ré or immersion in the heart of the Marais Poitevin, everything is possible.
Address Book
WHERE TO EAT?
Le Merluberlu, 37 quai Valin, 17000 La Rochelle.
Phone.
: 05 46 27 97 07. Lunch formulas € 20-24.
In the evening, tapas menu only.
Le Panier de Crabes, 9 rue de la Fourche, 17000 La Rochelle.
Phone.
: 09 53 56 59 97. Tasting plate: € 21.
Seafood platter: € 35 / person.
Lipstick, 4 rue des Cloutiers, 17000 La Rochelle.
Phone.
: 05 46 50 08 17. Count 25-30 € the meal.
Restaurant Les Flots, 1 rue de la Chaîne, 17000 La Rochelle.
Phone.
: 05 46 41 32 51. Return from fishing menu (at lunch): 35 €.
Menus from € 58.
Tonton Maboule, 48, avenue du Lazaret, Minimes shopping arcade, 17000 La Rochelle.
WHERE TO DRINK A GLASS?
La Terrasse de la Chaîne, on the Tour de la Chaîne, 17000 La Rochelle.
Phone.
: 05 46 37 85 46.
The Café de la Paix, 58 rue Chaudrier, 17000 La Rochelle.
Phone.
: 05 46 41 39 79.
France 1, in the Maritime Museum, place Bernard-Moitessier, 17000 La Rochelle.
Phone.
: 05 46 28 03 00.
TO HAVE
The covered market of La Rochelle, place of the central market of La Rochelle, Rue Gambetta, 17000 La Rochelle.
The La Rochelle aquarium, quai Louis-Prunier, 17000 La Rochelle.
Phone.
: 05 46 34 00 00. Open every day.
The Maritime Museum, place Bernard-Moitessier, 17000 La Rochelle.
Phone.
: 05 46 28 03 00. Open every day.
The La Rochelle bunker, 8 rue des Dames, 17000 La Rochelle.
Phone.
: 05 46 42 52 89. Open every day.
The New World Museum, 10, rue Fleuriau, 17000 La Rochelle.
Phone.
: 05 46 41 46 50. Open every day except Tuesday.
OR SLEEP ?
A city hotel
A hotel room.
A Town Hall / press photo
This pocket-sized address located a few minutes walk from the Old Port offers a handful of comfortable rooms with contemporary decor.
Nice surprise, a rooftop with a magnificent view of the Lantern Tower.
A Town Hall, 20 place du Maréchal-Foch, 17000 La Rochelle.
Phone.
: 05 46 41 15 75. Rooms from € 90.
Maisons du monde Hotel & suites
Located in the Old Port, this hotel opened in collaboration with Maisons du Monde offers a good base in La Rochelle. The 64 rooms, cozy and functional, are available in five different styles, from "Saint-Martin" to "Madras". Some offer lovely views over the rooftops or the harbor. All the furniture and decorative elements of the establishment are designed by Maisons du Monde. Rooms from € 100.
Maisons du Monde Hotel & Suite, 3 rue Saint-Jean-du-Pérot, 17000 La Rochelle. Phone. : 05 46 41 73 33.
