Gimena Pepe Arias
07/27/2021 6:00 AM
Clarín.com
Gourmet
Updated 07/27/2021 6:00 AM
Tenderloin
is one of the
most popular
sandwiches
in Argentina
.
So much so that it
is sold in restaurants, bars and street stalls
.
The recipe is always the same, although with variations in the presentation and the quality of the raw materials depending on the place chosen.
Its components are simple and accessible, perhaps that is the reason for its well-earned fame.
A loin feta, tomato slices, lettuce, grilled egg, ham, cheese and bread with mayonnaise.
When you order any “complete” sandwich at the surviving Costanera carts, it comes with all seven of these ingredients.
But,
if you order a tenderloin, either there, in a neighborhood grill or in a gourmet place
- so wide is its target - wherever it may be, it is not necessary to specify the companions of that precious feta of delicious meat.
It is always with
tutti
.
Tenderloin is one of the local fast foods par excellence.
Photo: La Vaquería.
How the Argentine tenderloin is made
Although the recipe is the same, each place gives its stamp to the tenderloin.
Habitués of the trolleys of the Costanera and the grills on the go, know that their sandwich will come out with a French or Vienna bread with a lot of crumb.
On the other hand,
in bars and restaurants with a more gourmet proposal, it is allowed to make "innovations"
and use alternative breads such as brioche, of French origin, or Italian ciabatta.
The same thing happens with meat.
To honor the name of the sandwich, it should be beef tenderloin.
However,
many times it is camouflaged with a good
rump
, buttock or other cut
that, to ensure the quality of the final product,
should
at least
be very tender and defatted
.
Sometimes the meat is served in a thin slice and other times, in several slices.
For example, in La Rambla, a bar and restaurant located in the Recoleta neighborhood, which according to chef Francis Mallmann prepares “
the best tenderloin in Buenos Aires with toasted French bread, ''
the meat is almost a tenderloin steak: three hundred and fifty grams of meat accompanied by lettuce and tomato.
The tenderloin is sometimes made with a slice of meat, sometimes with several slices.
Photo: Desarmadero
In this traditional Buenos Aires bar and restaurant, where they have been
preparing tenderloins for more than 50 years, they use French bread.
They remove a little of the crust and toast it so that it reaches the diner warm and crisp.
Why is the Cordovan tenderloin so famous?
In the province of
Córdoba, the "lomito" is simply a classic
.
He disputes the leadership of street sales to the choripán.
So much so that
the term "lomitería" is often
used to refer to the places that mainly or exclusively sell this product.
Lomitos 348 is one of the historic hills of Cordoba
.
Miguel and Alcides Turello, in charge of the family business, affirm that a good Cordovan tenderloin should have tenderloin, cheese, ham, egg, lettuce and tomato and that
the bread is a mix between French and Vienna bread, but less sweet
.
Cordovan tenderloin, of tenderloins 348.
Photo: Instagram
To achieve perfection, they explain that in their place,
the loin is not crushed but rather crushed by hand, so as not to break the meat fibers.
It
is cooked on cast iron plates
, round and round.
When it is ready, add the cheese, the ham and the grilled egg (it breaks a little so that the yolk mixes with the white).
There it goes to the assembly table where it is placed on
a warm bread spread with
mayonnaise
and sliced tomato and head of lettuce are added
(it is the one that remains crisp the most and does not scorch in the heat) cut into thin strips.
It comes to the table with French fries and costs $ 750
, it's so filling it can be shared.
Such is the fanaticism for this sandwich that this year
the first edition of the “Semana del Lomito”
and the championship to choose the best tenderloin in the province
was held in
Córdoba
capital
.
Tenderloin of Riccione, winner of the tenderloin tournament of the City of Córdoba.
The winner was the Riccione tenderloin
, which met all the premises, even with the classic ingredients.
The owner of the store, Javier Pisarskis, considers that
they stood out in the competition for
bread.
“It is artisan, hand-kneaded from a recipe inherited long ago.
It is similar to Vienna, but salty.
And another plus is that the mayonnaise is homemade ”.
Argentine tenderloin versus Uruguayan goat
The similarity
of the Argentine tenderloin with the Uruguayan goat
is remarkable
.
"What changes is the name and that
there they do it with a rump or buttock,
" says Turello.
And you are correct, the ingredients are the same.
Although by name it seems that the neighboring country does it with goats, the reality is that
the meat used is beef
.
The story goes that in 1940 a woman asked for a "goat" at the El Mejillón bar in Punta del Este.
The owner Antonio Carbonaro told her that she did not have but that he was not going to disappoint her and prepared a sandwich with slices of meat, ham, cheese and vegetables.
He liked it so much that he called it "goat."
Sandwich that to this day
is the flagship of the Uruguayan people
.
Chivito de La Dorita.
On this side of the "puddle", palates meet.
Whether in Montevideo, in Buenos Aires, in Córdoba or in many other cities in our country,
the tenderloin is a sales hit
.
Beyond the used bread, the chosen cut of meat, whether it is eaten on the plate or "standing",
this local
fast food
is one of the great favorites of Argentines.
How to prepare the best Argentine tenderloin
If reading this note already made you want to get down to work and prepare a succulent tenderloin, we leave you the recipe to make the
homemade tenderloin
or, at the end, the guide in case you want to try it in some of the places that serve it in Buenos Aires Aires.
Look here the step to prepare the Argentine lomito
Where to eat tenderloin in Buenos Aires
Lo de Charly:
Tenderloin with tomato and lettuce with french fries and soda, costs $ 680. Av. Álvarez Thomas 2101, Villa Ortúzar.
Cachito Premium
: The sandwich is assembled to suit the client.
Bread and 200 grams of meat cost $ 550. Additional charges such as ham, lettuce, provoleta, onions, etc. are charged.
Apolinario Figueroa 399, Villa Crespo and branches.
Beto's lomitos:
tenderloin with lettuce, tomato, egg, ham and cheese.
With potatoes and soda it costs $ 730 for the medium and $ 780 for the large.
See addresses at www.betos.com.ar
Dandy:
classic tenderloin with tomato, lettuce on ciabatta bread.
$ 1140.
Pinto 3880 and Rogelio Yrurtia 6012, Saavedra and branches in Palermo and Acasusso, Vicente López.
Lo de Carlitos: they
offer 12 varieties of tenderloins ranging from $ 600 to $ 810.
Nogoyá 3062, Villa del Parque.
La Rambla
: tenderloin with lettuce and tomato costs $ 1200 and full, $ 1350. Posadas 1602. Recoleta.
La Dorita
: Uruguayan Chivito, a grilled beef tenderloin sandwich, with bacon, cheese, tomato, lettuce, and grilled egg on aerated Vienna-style bread, costs $ 800. Humboldt 1892, Palermo.
Desarmadero Bar:
full tenderloin sandwich with tenderloin with lettuce, tomato, provolone and fried egg on cheese bread, costs $ 650. Gorriti 4300,
Palermo Bar de Meats:
grilled beef tenderloin sandwich accompanied with cheese, crispy smoked bacon, grilled egg, arugula and confit tomatoes, costs $ 800. Peña 2287, Recoleta.
La Vaquería
: full tenderloin: 150 grams of beef tenderloin in brioche bread with green leaves, sliced tomato, cheddar cheese, cooked ham, fried egg, roasted bell pepper and crunchy onion, it costs $ 730. The special version has roquefort, purple onion , cheddar cheese, arugula, crispy bacon and house avocado mayonnaise, costs $ 730. And, the simple tenderloin, has green leaves and tomato, costs $ 600. Av de Los Lagos 7010, Centro Comercial Nordelta.
Tenderloins Parador 40:
Variety of tenderloins.
Av Rivadavia 10399, Villa Luro.
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