Biarritz has changed a lot in recent years. In ten years, it has gone from a seaside resort that keeps pace with the French school holidays to an international destination. The rich bourgeois in Hermès suits are becoming rarer, replaced by a younger population that we meet in the streets on skateboards, a surfboard under their arm. Apart from January, when a good number of traders close, Biarritz now lives all year round. As for the weather, it's still a game of poker, but June, September and October are divine months to enjoy the resort on the Basque coast. With its golden lights at the end of the season, the sun's rays gently caress our skin. The wave season is approaching, good surfers resume their habits, scrutinize the wave in the distance, hoping that it will be the best.
Given the current health situation, by decree, the Prefect of Pyrénées-Atlantiques has decided to ban the fireworks of August 15, 2021 in Biarritz.
The arrival
Since the creation of the LGV Atlantique, Parisians have gained an hour of transport.
The capital is only four hours by TGV from Biarritz.
Those in a hurry will choose the plane.
Air France serves Biarritz in 1h20 from Paris-Orly or 1h30 from Roissy-Charles de Gaulle, but also from Lyon all year round and other provincial towns.
Convenient, the city center is only ten minutes away.
More informations :
Biarritz Tourist Office, Sq. D'Ixelles, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 22 37 10.
Right now !
THE EXPO TO SEE
Zigor, Egu Iturria (The Sources of Dawn)
Through his sculptures in tellurid shapes carved from raw oak, Zigor intends to introduce the viewer to the roots of Basque mythology.
Emmy Martens / City of Biarritz
Sculptor, painter, photographer, this ex-reporter for Gama is a jack of all trades.
Originally from the Basque Country on the Spanish side, he has lived in Biarritz for many years, so it was normal that the city devotes a beautiful retrospective to him at the Espace Bellevue.
Moreover, his exhibition
Egu Iturria (La Source de l'Aube)
is a real success with a magnificent staging of the work of this talented artist. Through his sculptures in tellurid shapes carved from raw oak, he intends to make the viewer discover the roots of Basque mythology, the link that this people has always had with the land. The streaks of the oaks, the symbol of the cross transport us to the bowels of the Basque Country. In the last room, an exhibition of black and white photos takes us into a wild Basque Country far from the usual landmarks, as for its gouaches in ocher and red tones, they are simply sublime. The artist runs guided tours every Wednesday and Friday at 11 a.m. Otherwise, a QR code allows access to a guided tour via a podcast but nothing replaces the presence of Zigor himself.
Le Bellevue, Place Bellevue.
Open every day from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. except Tuesday until August 29.
Price: € 7, plus € 3 for the visit with the artist.
THE RIGHT TABLE
Caroe
Wines, seafood and seasonal products to share: Carøe's leitmotif in Biarritz.
Astrid Taupin / Le Figaro
Carøe arrived in Biarritz in 2016 in small steps. A small 16 m2 room where we came to enjoy a Scandinavian brunch on Sunday morning with salmon, smoked herring and aquavit. Joséphine Cordeil is Franco-Danish and Florian, her husband, ex-engineer in Denmark, this explains that. Then, the menu has evolved over time to “basque” giving pride of place to local products, but always with a nod to Scandinavia. The Covid passing by there, Joséphine and Florian bought the adjacent premises to expand. The restaurant has become more comfortable, the chairs are more comfortable and there is a lot more space. We already liked Florian's cuisine, but the chef went a step above with a super innovative menu. Among our favorites, leeks with parmentière sauce made from smoked anchovies,xipirons with Soubise sauce or the veal tartare from Aldudes accompanied by trout eggs. And always the salamand rice, a typical Danish dessert.
Carøe, 51 bis rue Gambetta, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone: 09 83 34 54 60.
THE HOTEL IN SIGHT
The Silhouette Hotel
At the back of the house, a garden lulled by the sea scent unfolds where relaxation and serenity are in order with a bucolic and shaded terrace.
Press photo
The Silhouette has just reopened after several months of work. The twenty-one rooms of this four-star are brand new. The location is ideal, just opposite Les Halles, which has become the city's fashionable district. We cannot recommend enough those overlooking the ocean and the magnificent garden where you will enjoy having breakfast. A warm decoration borrows Mediterranean touches. The sofas are upholstered in Casa Lopez fabrics. Wallpapers with tropical patterns transport you to the end of the world. The whole gives a nice whole, certainly eclectic, but very harmonious. A real originality when many hotels today seem to adopt the same style. From € 200 per night in a double room. Breakfast, € 19. Parking, € 19 per day.
Silhouette Hotel, 30 rue Gambetta.
64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 24 93 82.
DAY 1: A PROGRAM BASED ON THE TIDES
Morning
A surf lesson with Charlie.
Surf With Charlie / Press photo
Start with a solid breakfast at
Etxola Bibi
, the city's most famous hut above the
Côte des Basques
. The 360 ° view of the Pyrenees, Spain, the ocean and
Villa Belza
is certainly one of the prettiest on the Atlantic coast.
Note that in Biarritz, the days are programmed according to the tides. At
low tide
, we enjoy the
beach
and the surf, at
high tide
, we
visit
the city. If the tide is good, go take a
surf lesson with Charlie
. Admittedly, there are several surf schools on the Côte des Basques but Charlie favors small groups, maximum 4 people.
Surfing started in France at the Côte des Basques in the 1950s with Peter Viertel, an American screenwriter and the
Tontons Surfeurs
, these local surfers who took their first waves.
You may have the opportunity to meet Claude Durcudoy, one of the Tontons Surfeurs.
If he no longer surfs today, he still likes to come for a walk and "check" the waves.
Lunch break
Either you want to enjoy the beach in this case, go to
Carlos
, one of the three restaurants on the Côte des Basques.
Their take-out poke bowl is divine.
Otherwise, walk along the beach towards Villa Belza to reach the Port-Vieux or you can have lunch on the
Baigneuses
terrace
.
Relaxed atmosphere and incredible view of the beach of Port-Vieux and the Rocher de la Vierge.
A word of advice, arrive at the start of the shift, it can sometimes be a bit long.
Afternoon
One of the beautiful villas in the Imperial district.
CDT64 / J. Cazenave
If the tide is high, take the opportunity to stroll around Biarritz to discover the
prettiest villas
. If it is low, reverse the order, surf in the afternoon and tour in the morning. Rent electric bikes from
Vélektrix
because Biarritz is built on a hill, all the streets are sloping with steep drops. Start in the
Saint-Charles district
by visiting the
Orthodox church
just in front of the
Hôtel du Palais
, continue towards rue Albert 1er and admire the beautiful half-timbered villas. Then, continue with the
Château Grammont
where Empress Eugenie spent her childhood, and the
Château Boulard
Renaissance style which rises to the highest point of Biarritz.
A stone's throw away is the
Bibi district
and its little houses adorned with geraniums.
Formerly inhabited by fishermen, today bought at a high price in recent years by bobos.
At the end of the day, go for a massage at the
Alaena spa
.
Created by Anne Peres, this place is a bubble of well-being, perfect for relaxing the muscles after a surf session and an afternoon cycling.
Aperitif and dinner
Nightlife in the Halles district.
Tourist Office / Emmy Martens
At the top of
rue Gambetta
, a little away from the hubbub of Les Halles,
Artnoa
is a wine bar that will appeal to wine lovers. Its specialty, small biodynamic wine producers, the opportunity to make discoveries at affordable prices. Then, we let ourselves slide towards the market to feast on squid a la plancha or roasted hake at
Chistera et Coquillages
which has a large terrace. If you prefer more traditional houses, head to
Chez Albert
at the Port des Pêcheurs. This institution is famous for its huge platters of seafood and profiteroles for dessert. For gourmets, the
Impertinent
and its Michelin-starred restaurant is worth the detour with revisited local products, such as local suckling lamb in cabbage or pan-fried foie gras accompanied by pear.
Evening
A last drink in one of the bars around Les Halles.
You will be spoiled for choice,
the Passage
,
the Comptoir du Foie Gras
or
the Bar du Marché
.
You choose.
BASQUE COUNTRY, FIGARO TRAVEL GUIDE
DAY 2: TRAVEL FORM, TASTING AT THE MARKET AND MUSEUM
Morning
La Grande Plage and its famous striped tents.
Tourist Office / Emmy Martens
It all depends on what time you went to bed the night before. If you are an early riser, take the fitness trail that starts from the lighthouse on the
Elisabeth II esplanade
. To warm up, climb the 248 steps that will take you to the top of the
lighthouse
. Don't forget the selfie with the
Hôtel du Palais
in the background that you can admire a little closer on your way back down to the center of Biarritz. After two years of renovation, it reopened in the spring of 2021. Then, walk along the
Grande Plage
and the Casino, then go up to the
Place Sainte-Eugénie
, go down to the
Port des Pêcheurs
, then continue with the
Port-Vieux
, the
Côte des Basques
, go up by the
Hundred Marches
.
We warn you, the walks in Biarritz are very sporty, all the streets are sloping.
If you are more sleepy, join the locals who, for nothing in the world, would miss the
market at Les Halles
.
On your way, if you want to learn a little more about surfing, stop by the
Sylvain Cazenave gallery
.
A pioneer in surf photography, he will make you dream by telling you about the greatest surfers like Laird Hamilton and the mythical waves of Hawaii, Australia or elsewhere ...
A word of advice, arrive at Les Halles on an empty stomach because this place is full of good things. Start with the
Balme
and taste their scrambled eggs with truffles, their Croque Martine or a sheep pancake opposite the
P'Tit Dolmen
, accompanied by a glass of cider or a squeezed fruit juice. Then stock up on local products to take home: Iberian ham planks at
Montauzer
, Ossau Iraty with
Crème de la Crème
and Basque cake at
Maquirrian
. Ask to have everything vacuum packed (except the Basque cake) for the trip. At the end of the morning, switch to the fish side, it's time to taste a few oysters with a glass of white wine standing at the counter.
Lunch break
Not sure that you are still hungry after these nibbles, but in case you want to lay down in peace,
Maître Renard
, the ephemeral restaurant (until September 30) of the Hotel Saint-Julien offers a divine brunch based on local products.
And why not end with a game of pétanque balls at the back of the hotel?
Out of season, the terrace of
La Petite Plage
with its magnificent view of the Port-Vieux and the Rocher de la Vierge will welcome you.
Afternoon
The Cité de l'Océan is a space dedicated to discovering the big blue.
City of the Ocean
Take the free shuttle at the Helianthe crossroads (or your electric bike) to get to the
Cité de l'Océan
, located to the south of the city. This museum dedicated to the ocean and surfing allows you to learn a little more about the phenomena of rogue waves or even to take yourself for a champion riding the wave of Tehaupo'o (
one of the most dangerous waves in the world. world,
Editor's note
), thanks to a simulator. Below,
Ilbaritz beach
allows you to take a short break in the sun while admiring the
castle
which overlooks the Atlantic.
Built by Baron Albert de l'Espée between 1895 and 1897, this five-storey building of 40 m in height, houses a sumptuous wooden staircase, finely carved, a magnificent room that once housed the largest organ in the world (today ' hui at the Sacré-Coeur in Paris).
As the baron hated getting wet in the rain, he had built three kilometers of covered paths to walk around his domain.
Dinner aperitif
Véletrix, where you have rented your electric bikes, organizes “sunset outings” in
Guéthary
.
In a small group with a guide, you go to Guéthary, nine kilometers to the south.
This small, typically Basque village is a delight to enjoy the last rays of the sun and have an aperitif at the water's edge.
If you're lucky, you might get a chance to see the green ray on the horizon.
For more information
, Biarritz Tourist Office, Square d'Ixelles.
Phone.
: 05 59 22 37 10 and tourisme.biarritz.fr
Read also: Our ten favorite restaurants in the Basque Country
Address Book
Scrambled eggs with truffles at La Maison Balme.
Balme House
WHERE TO EAT?
Etxola Bibi, square JB Lassalle, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 06 09 63 15 98.
Carlos, 7, boulevard du Prince de Galles, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 47 46 12.
The Bathers of Biarritz, 14 rue du Port-Vieux, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 24 41 84.
Chistera et Coquillages, 13, rue des Halles, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 41 89 45.
Chez Albert, Port des Pêcheurs, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 24 43 84.
Maison Balme, rue des Halles, 64200 Biarritz. Tel.
: 05 33 47 33 07.
L'Impertinent, 5, rue d'Alsace, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 51 03 67.
Frozen Palm, 2, rue Jean Bart, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 47 70 55.
Manatee, 13, rue Gambetta, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 24 33 03 06.
More good restaurants on rue Gambetta ...
EPok, 11, rue du Helder.
Tel: 09 88 09 68 12. Next to the restaurant, now a grocery store with good local products.
Cibo, delicious pizzas.
51 bis, rue Gambetta.
Phone.
: 05 35 46 56 71.
Saline Ceviche, poke bowl.
62, rue Gambetta.
Phone.
: 05 59 43 65 98.
Read also: Gourmet getaways on the Basque coast: the novelties of the summer
GOING OUT AND DRINKING A GLASS
L'Artnoa, 56, rue Gambetta, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 24 78 87.
Bar Jean, 5, rue des Halles, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 24 80 38.
OR SLEEP ?
Romantic room at the Saint-Julien hotel.
Hotel Saint Julien / Press photo
The Hotel du Palais
If you are ready to break the bank for an unforgettable stay, the only palace on the Atlantic coast is worth a visit.
It has just received a complete facelift after three years of work.
The former home of the Empress Eugenie has regained its former glory but with the requirements in terms of comfort that any palace must offer today.
From € 680 per night in a double room.
Hôtel du Palais, 1 avenue de l'Impératrice, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 41 12 34.
Read also: In Biarritz, the imperial renovation of the Hôtel du Palais
Hotel Saint-Julien
A stone's throw from Les Halles, this small family hotel with 20 rooms is full of charm.
Tastefully vintage furniture decorates the rooms which have a view either on the Biarritz lighthouse or on the Rhune and the Bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz.
From 105 € per night.
Hotel Saint-Julien, 20, avenue Carnot, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 24 20 39.
The Jules Verne Literary Hotel
The old Best Western opposite the Asiatica Museum joins the collection of literary hotels.
The one in Biarritz has been completely redone and has adopted the codes of Jules Verne, travel, the discovery that can be found in the decoration of the rooms.
From € 85 per night in a double room.
Best Western Plus, Hôtel Littéraire Jules Verne, 2 rue Guy Petit, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 22 20 20.
Read also: Biarritz: for the view, the atmosphere or the decor, our ten favorite hotels
SHOPPING
A cushion signed Biarritz, a nice souvenir to slip into your suitcase.
Delphine Lousteau-Laplaces
Victoire
: the opportunity to discover the pretty cotton veil dresses from Virginie de Vinster, a local designer.
17, avenue Edouard VII.
Phone.
: 05 59 23 28 80.
Jolis Mots Biarritz: cushions, bath towels, linen beach bags signed by famous local beaches.
Halles market.
Phone.
: 06 73 39 47 60.
Central Store
: tea towels stamped with the Basque country and crockery in the colors of the country with a twist of modernism.
9, avenue Victor Hugo.
Phone.
: 06 07 68 85 54.
Act 1
: the decoration shop where we love the small terracotta ceramics.
12, rue des Halles.
Phone.
: 05 59 85 60 98.
AND ALSO...
Sylvain Cazenave Gallery, 8, rue Gambetta, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 06 03 82 17 75.
Bike rental, Velektrix, 23 avenue du Maréchal Foch, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 98 69 70.
Surf With Charlie (at the Carlina Lodge), 9 boulevard du Prince de Galles, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 06 13 89 70 19.
Spa Alanéa, 20, avenue du Sabaou, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 23 96 92.
City of the Ocean, 1, avenue de la Plage, 64200 Biarritz.
Phone.
: 05 59 22 75 40.
This article, originally published on June 11, 2020, has been updated.
