Gone are the days when we just spent time in Rennes.
We now stop in this city labeled “City of Art and History” for the charm of cobblestones and half-timbering, granite, tufa and slates.
An exceptional heritage which is now experiencing an exciting renewal.
Trendy boutiques, lively cafes, gourmet restaurants and a variety of cultural events abound in the Breton capital.
There is nothing like a weekend to enjoy this gentle tranquility that maintains eternal youth.
Follow the leader !
To discover
Discover the Great Figaro Culture Cruise
The arrival
You can reach Rennes in 1h30 by TGV from Paris.
The station has just been renovated, especially its north facade.
And it is towards the latter that we go out of the quay.
From below to take the metro line, or from above to descend to the station forecourt, from which you can walk to old Rennes in 15 minutes.
MOVE
The historic center is almost entirely reserved for pedestrians.
You can also rent a bicycle using the Star bike service, the local Vélib with 55 stations across town.
There are also six two-wheeler rental companies in Rennes, including one in the bus station, the Maison du Vélo, located in the building to the right of the north exit of the train station.
The summer citypass from the Rennes tourist office offers group access to the bus and metro network, a guided tour, an electric boat ride and access to museums and temporary exhibitions.
Available in 24 and 48 hour version.
Finally, the tourist office and its partners offer guided tours and discovery of Rennes' heritage by bike.
MORE INFORMATIONS
Tourist Office
Rennes
tourisme-rennes.com
Brittany Tourist Office:
tourismebretagne.com
What to do now
THE EXPO TO SEE
More than a hundred works by 57 international artists such as Jeff Koons, Damien Hirst, Raymond Depardon or Annie Leibovitz are exhibited.
Convent of the Jacobins / Destination Rennes
Beyond color. Black and white in the Pinault collection.
The Jacobins Convent, a 14th century building renovated in 2018, is hosting a flagship exhibition.
Works from the Pinault Collection only in the colors of Gwenn ha Du, the Breton flag, and the coat of arms of the Order of the Jacobins.
Black and white are used in radical experiments, but also to express the harsh reality of things.
Paintings, sculptures, drawings, photographs, videos and even a few fashion pieces ... More than a hundred works by 57 international artists such as Jeff Koons, Damien Hirst, Raymond Depardon or Annie Leibovitz.
Le Couvent des Jacobins - Rennes Métropole Congress Center, 20 place Sainte-Anne, 35000 Rennes.
Entrance: 10 €.
Until August 29.
THE RIGHT TABLE
Holen
The hall of the Holen restaurant, awarded one star in the Michelin guide.
Franck Hamon
Installed at the back of a soft armchair, near a shelf filled with books, we let ourselves go to the piano tunes which imprint a soft melancholy.
Now is the time to open the “weather menu”.
We discover a daring, sometimes surprising cuisine by chef Tugdual Debethune, awarded a Michelin star in 2020. Like this cuttlefish white with tomato vinegar and Parmesan, turbot with thyme and rosemary and this vanilla cream accompanied by roasted vanilla ice cream.
Three-course menu at € 52.
Holen, 2 rue des Carmes, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 99 79 28 95. Open from Tuesday to Saturday, midday from 12 noon to 2 pm, in the evening from 7:30 pm to 9:30 pm (Wednesday only by reservation).
Closed on sunday and monday.
THE HOTEL IN SIGHT
The Balthazar Hotel & Spa
The five-star Balthazar hotel.
Press photo
In the rue du Maréchal-Joffre which leads to the Parliament of Brittany, this is undoubtedly one of the most chic addresses in the city.
A warm and contemporary decor envelops guests from the lobby.
This five-star hotel with 56 keys (including three suites with private terrace) offers a lovely table run by the Breton chef Benjamin Jourdren, awarded in 2021 with a Michelin plate and two forks.
After a day of walking, you can also enjoy the Nuxe spa with its heated (indoor) swimming pool, sauna and hammam.
From 175 € per night.
Balthazar Hôtel & Spa Rennes-MGallery, 19 rue Maréchal Joffre, 35000 Rennes.
DAY 1: HALF-COLUMNS AND CONCEPTS STORES
Morning
The Parliament of Brittany, iconic monument of Rennes.
Valery Rokhin / Adobe Stock
How to start a visit to Rennes other than with the
Parliament of Brittany
. Completed in 1709, the building accommodates the sessions of the Breton parliamentarians then shelters, in 1804 and until today, the court of appeal of Rennes. The tourist office offers guided tours to discover its sumptuous French-style ceilings and golden woodwork. The slate roof, rebuilt after the fire in 1994, is topped with golden lilies and copper ermines as well as four allegorical statues representing Law, Strength, Fame and Justice. Breton pride, the Parliament overlooks the eponymous square, whose ordered facades are inspired by the Place Vendôme in Paris.
At the south-eastern corner of the square, we go to
rue Saint-Georges
, one of the few to have been spared by the fire that devastated most of the historic center in 1720. We will look up at the half-timbered facades: some buildings date from the 16th century and are among the oldest in the city. We go down to
Place Saint-Germain
for a gourmet break. Facing the south porch of the Saint-Germain church and its 17th century belfry tower, the
Ty chou
tea room offers
cream puffs: from classic salted butter to chocolate, raspberry or even passion fruit . We then advance a few meters to discover another iconic place in Rennes:
the Place de la Mairie
.
The Town Hall and its curved plan seem to attract the Opera and its rounded facade.
To eat lunch
It is time for lunch, we reach
the Little Dipper
, on Boulevard de la Liberté.
An organic, local and seasonal table which has been part of the Michelin Guide's Bib Gourmand since 2020. Charlotte (indoors) and Germain (in the kitchen) welcome guests with overwhelming enthusiasm.
On the plate, creative cuisine with unbeatable value for money.
Starter, main course, dessert menu for less than € 20: € 18.90 exactly.
Who does better?
Afternoon
Rue du Chapitre and its corbelled houses.
Franck Hamon / Destination Rennes
The pedestrian streets of Vieux Rennes are an invitation to stroll. You absolutely have to go through the
rue du Chapitre
for its corbelled houses, whose wooded facade juts out towards the street. For an “Instagramable” moment, enter the courtyard of the
Hôtel de Blossac
and stand on the main staircase on the left.
This is the opportunity to do some shopping in the shops that have taken up residence in the granite buildings.
Among them,
Made in Frogs
(number 17), a boutique of decorative objects, pop accessories and artisan cosmetics.
Rue de laonnaie, we slip a head at
Maison Archibald
, a concept store opened in June 2021, at the same time interior designer studio, decoration store and tea room.
Ask Selda, the co-founder, the story behind each object.
When you leave, you can admire the
Portes Mordelaises
on the right
, the entrance to the ramparts of Rennes.
The site is currently under construction until 2024. Opposite the gates, the
Saint-Pierre Cathedral
and its interior all in red marble, gilding and colorful frescoes.
It is worth a look.
Aperitif and dinner
In the evening, as the terraces fill up, the
François Mitterrand mall
is adorned with a warm atmosphere.
We stroll in the pedestrian alley before having a drink, for example at
Oh my bear
, a tapas bar.
When it's time for dinner, we head towards the Antoinette Caillot passage where we don't expect to find such an address.
Racines
, a starred restaurant since 2019,
is located in this modern residential building.
Concrete, velvet chairs, pampas grass and wooden tables adorn the bright room.
The meal begins, barely installed, with the scents that escape from the open kitchen, where the team of chef Virginie Giboire is active.
We love the hake with seaweed and vinegar rice or this rhubarb and its shortbread,
creamcheese
and gin and tonic sorbet.
Starter, main course, dessert menu at 60 €.
DAY 2: CONTEMPORARY ART AND NATURE BATH
Morning
The Rennes Museum of Fine Arts, along the Vilaine.
Julien Mignot / Destination Rennes
We start the day at
Place Sainte-Anne
, which shares, with that of Les Lices, the title of “the most festive place in Rennes”. The terraces are surrounded by half-timbered houses. It is from here that the
rue Saint-Michel
begins
, very (too) lively at night, which earned it its nickname "street of thirst". At the end of it, turn right to arrive at the
Place des Lices
. The Martenot Halls, built in 1871 on the model of the Baltard Halls in Paris, have hosted the market there every Saturday morning since 1622.
Contemporary art buffs will follow up with a visit to the
Museum of Fine Arts
, where temporary exhibitions complete the permanent collection.
Others can take a tour of the Espace des Sciences des
Champs Libres
.
This 23,000 m2 space designed by the architect Christian de Portzamparc brings together three major institutions of Rennes culture: the Musée de Bretagne, the library and the Science area (ideal to discover with children).
Enough to fill a morning, until hunger grips you.
And it's hard to come to Brittany without tasting a pancake ...
To eat lunch
Return to rue du Chapitre where the
Saint-Georges creperie
renews the genre by adding a touch of modernity to the traditional pancakes, here accompanied by a sorbet.
“Georges” formula (buckwheat pancake + pancake) at € 13.50.
Afternoon
Electric boat trip on the Ille canal.
Franck Hamon / Destination Rennes
Les P'tits Bateau
offers electric boat trips on the Ille canal. You can either join the Vilaine to cross Rennes, or head north to navigate in lush greenery (our preferred option). One to three hour trips, in boats of 5 or 7 places. We extend this bath of nature with a stroll through the
Saint-Martin meadows
, a 28-hectare natural park located right next door, with sites for observing flora and fauna, children's games and allotment gardens.
Not tired?
Direction
The Roof Rennes and Origines
, a unique and ephemeral place installed in
the Hôtel-Dieu
.
People come to this former 19th century hospital to meet and discuss cultural, artistic and sporting activities (bouldering room).
For small appetites on the main courtyard side: homemade drinks, tea and coffee, pastries, salads and sandwiches are served all day.
In the shade of a cherry tree in the cloister, here is Origines, the first bistro-microbrewery in Rennes.
It serves home-made cuisine made with organic and local seasonal products to accompany a wide choice of beers brewed on site and natural wines.
Having dinner
The Coquille restaurant offers fresh, local products prepared by chef Arnaud Guilloux.
Shell / Photo press
To end the weekend in style, head south, a ten-minute walk from the Hôtel-Dieu.
Along the ramparts, rue Nantaise is one of the gourmet spots in the Breton city.
With a menu for less than € 30, the
Coquille
restaurant
(at number 16) stands out for its careful cuisine with fresh and local products prepared by chef Arnaud Guilloux.
For dessert, we go back to childhood with these mini-madeleines served on their baking sheet.
It's time to go home.
Address Book
COFFEE & BARS
Hibou Grand Duc, 10 Rue Dupont-des-Loges, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 99 30 42 02.
Loco Loca, 17 Rue Comté de Lanjuinais, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
02 99 92 25 21.
Origins, 2 rue de l'Hotel-Dieu, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 06 69 01 15 84.
Penny Lane, 1 Rue de Coetquen, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 90 89 40 28.
Oh my bear, 14 mail François Mitterrand, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 09 81 32 11 71.
TEA ROOM / PASTRY
Ty Chou, 8 Rue du Vau Saint-Germain 35000 Rennes.
RESTAURANTS
Racines, 4 passage Antoinette Caillot, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 99 65 64 21.
La Petite Ourse, 48 boulevard de la Liberté, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 09 52 84 33 61.
Coquille, 16 rue Nantaise, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 99 31 36 36.
La Saint-Georges, 11 rue du Chapitre, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 99 38 87 04.
Léon le Cochon, 6 rue du Pré Botté, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 99 79 37 54.
Le Picadilly, Place de la Mairie, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 23 61 94 04.
Holen, 2 rue des Carmes, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 99 79 28 95.
Monsieur Yak, 10 rue de la Chalotais, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 99 53 38 40.
Brasserie de la Paix, 1 place de la République, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 99 79 47 11.
SHOPPING
French blossom, 14 Rue de Nemours, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 99 26 90 78.
Maison Archibald, 14 Rue de la Monnaie, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 99 67 62 94.
Made in Frogs Rennes, 17 Rue du Chapitre, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 99 83 34 12.
Officine Clisson, 1 Rue de Clisson, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 23 62 88 41.
Antoine and Colette, 21 Rue Poullain Duparc, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 22 93 10 60.
TO DO
Les P'tits Bateaux, 48 Canal Saint-Martin, 35700 Rennes.
Les Champs Libres, 10 cours des Alliés, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 23 40 66 00.
OR SLEEP ?
The Saint-Antoine
A haven of peace five minutes walk from the station and ten from the historic center.
61 bright rooms and suites, with bay window, bow window or terrace overlooking the rooftops of Rennes.
They are all different!
In the basement, we treat ourselves to organic products at the KOS PARIS spa and its hammam, jacuzzi.
From € 120 per night.
Hotel & Spa le Saint-Antoine, 27, avenue Janvier 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 23 44 33 33.
Marnie & Mister H
A charming guest room in a 16th century half-timbered building on rue du Chapitre.
Five English dandy-style bedrooms, a cozy living room and a terrace in the shade of the half-timbering.
From € 109, breakfast served in your room.
Marnie and Mister H, 3 rue du Chapitre, 35000 Rennes.
Phone.
: 02 30 02 84 08/06 50 37 47 69.
