Brittany and especially the south of Finistère have become very fashionable. Victim of their success, the most emblematic tourist places like Bénodet, Concarneau or Pont-Aven, are taken by storm in high season. So, if these great southern Finistère classics hold no secrets for you, or if you are averse to summer crowds, go for a weekend to explore a much more confidential part of the coast, which has preserve the appetite of real estate developers and protect its pristine nature. From the Pointe de
Trévignon,
15 km south of Concarneau, to the
Merrien
estuary
,
5 km north of Doëlan, passing through the
Bélon
oyster beds
and the charming port of
Brigneau
, once a national benchmark for sardines, a stay with an iodized taste is on the menu.
Off the beaten track, mainly along the coast of what is called the
country of Quimperlé,
you can savor wild beaches, postcard ports, coastal paths (GR34), boat trips, rias with emerald waters.
And some pancakes and shellfish, of course.
The tip of Trévignon, its port and its nature reserve
SNSM rescuers depart at sea from the port of Trévignon.
Johan Ricou / Le Figaro
The tip of Trévignon, in the town of Trégunc, is the ideal starting point to start the circuit. It is a summary of the Breton coastline, perfect for taking the pulse of the region: a small authentic port, a beautiful rocky point, a very pleasant, uncrowded beach, coastal paths, a nature reserve and creperies. Its port hosts a local institution: a curious hangar on stilts of the SNSM (National Society for Rescue at Sea) and its boat, always ready to go to the rescue of a sailboat or a fisherman in distress. Its launch, by means of a ramp, is quite impressive.
A few steps from Trévignon, in the direction of Concarneau, the protected area of the
loc'h de Trégunc
, fresh and salt water maritime marshes, separated from the ocean by a long dune ridge of 6 kilometers, offers possibilities for walks in a wild environment, between loc'h and the Atlantic, on white sand beaches, frequented only by a few connoisseurs. The small Kerouini car park, between Trévignon and
Pointe de la Jument
, is the best way to
explore it
. But without GPS (it is at the end of the road to Kerouini), there is no salvation: it is hidden on the edge of the nature reserve and getting there without assistance is a challenge. As if the Bretons are reluctant to share its existence!
To do:
a sea trip from the port of Trévignon in a 12-seater semi-rigid boat with
Glénan Découverte
, along the surrounding coast or towards the Glénan archipelago.
Glénan Découverte: non-stop excursion from Trévignon to Kerdruc along the coast, € 25 for adults, € 20 for children, or a visit to the Glénan archipelago, € 45 per adult and € 30 per child.
Phone.
: 06 70 75 89 79.
Read also The five most beautiful villages on the Breton coast
Raguenez island and
Port Manec'h
Port Manec'h, its beach and its small marina.
Johan Ricou / Le Figaro
South of Pointe de Trévignon, from
Raguenez
beach,
walk to
the small island of the same name! This private islet is in fact accessible at low tide and its owner allows walks there, for the pleasure of all. Young and old alike take this opportunity to embark on shore fishing. The road continues towards the marina of
Port Manec'h
10 km from the tip of Trévignon. Follow the direction of Port Manec'h by the coast, a seaside resort very popular with Finistériens and photographers. From the hold and the dike, the view of the mouths of the
Aven
and
Bélon
rias
, the beach of
Kerfany-les-Pins
, the imposing mansion in the background of the "belle époque" beach of Port Manec'h, with its typical white cabins and its sailboats at anchor, is exceptional.
To regret not being able to extend the moment by having a drink on the port, eyes lost in this dream setting, even if a food-truck without a terrace is parked there.
Read alsoOur five most beautiful favorite beaches in northern Brittany
Port du Bélon, gastronomic destination
At the port of Bélon, oysters can be tasted with your feet in the water
Dominique Vernier / Adobe Stock
Overlooked by a manor built in the 15th century, the
port of Bélon,
25 minutes from Port Manec'h, nestles in the Bélon oyster estuary, known for its delicious flat oysters with a characteristic nutty taste. Two local institutions offer shellfish and crustaceans in two radically different options. At the Huîtrières du Château de Bélon, an oyster farm overlooking the port since 1864, the formula and menu are immutable: Bélon oysters, rye bread, salted butter and lemon, all tasted on simple wooden tables set up opposite the estuary. , possibly accompanied by a glass of Muscadet. Simply happiness. At the Chez Jacky restaurant, whose small rooms with large bay windows offer a panoramic view of the port, à la carte, much more traditional, products from the owner's fishpond and catch of the day, which will delight gourmets.The gargantuan seafood platter (from € 45 per person) takes pride of place, as does the house specialty: a grilled Breton lobster served with a coral sauce. Reservation essential. The establishment sells shellfish from its fishpond and has a tasting area on the terrace, open all the time. Because a dozen oysters or a plate of langoustines, we delight in it at any time. Before leaving Port Bélon, a digestive walk is essential. From the Huîtrières, three circular paths (3, 6 and 9 kilometers) crisscross the banks of the estuary and its secret coves forming small beaches at low tide.Reservation essential. The establishment sells shellfish from its fishpond and has a tasting area on the terrace, open all the time. Because a dozen oysters or a plate of langoustines, we delight in it at any time. Before leaving Port Bélon, a digestive walk is essential. From the Huîtrières, three circular paths (3, 6 and 9 kilometers) crisscross the banks of the estuary and its secret coves forming small beaches at low tide.Reservation essential. The establishment sells shellfish from its fishpond and has a tasting area on the terrace, open all the time. Because a dozen oysters or a plate of langoustines, we delight in it at any time. Before leaving Port Bélon, a digestive walk is essential. From the Huîtrières, three circular paths (3, 6 and 9 kilometers) crisscross the banks of the estuary and its secret coves forming small beaches at low tide.6 and 9 kilometers) crisscross the banks of the estuary and its secret coves forming small beaches at low tide.6 and 9 kilometers) crisscross the banks of the estuary and its secret coves forming small beaches at low tide.
Chez Jacky, rue du Port du Bélon, 29340 Riec-sur-Bélon.
Reservation on 02 98 06 90 32. Discovery menu at 28 €.
The Huîtrières du Château de Bélon, rue du Port du Bélon, 29340 Riec-sur-Bélon.
From € 12 per person.
Guided tour of the estate on Wednesday and Friday at 3 p.m. (adults € 5, children € 2.5).
Read alsoTen must-see ports to visit in Brittany
Brigneau, one of the best kept secrets of southern Finistère
The port of Brigneau at low tide.
Johan Ricou / Le Figaro
The port of
Brigneau
is a jewel with a rich past, a setting frequented only by a handful of boaters and lovers of coastal hikes, nestled in the wild coast of the town of
Moëlan-sur-Mer
. Formerly a French stronghold for sardines, as evidenced by the section of the wall, vestige of the immense Malachappe cannery, which overlooked the entrance to the port, Brigneau was still there twenty years ago populated by a community of old people. gruff fishermen, setting off to face the elements day after day on small trawlers.
It is impossible not to fall under the bewitching charm of this verdant ria, which once served as a "cemetery" for wooden boats that have had their day, its shaded banks and the changing color of its waters. Pretty but rare, a few villas dominate the port, thanks to the efforts made by the Conservatoire du littoral to bar the way for real estate developers and industrialists, attracted by the some 8,000 m2 on the seafront occupied by the Malachappe factory. The walk not to be missed: a little before the slipway, a steep path will lead you to the dike and its small lighthouse, along the ruins of the old factory of Malachappe. Peninsula of
Merrien
to the south, Groix island off the coast: the oceanic panorama is sumptuous.
From there, a part of the GR34 accompanies the coast and offers magnificent views.
Every summer, at the beginning of August, Brigneau organizes a party on the port, the “
Digue en Fête
», Where old middlemen come to moor. Nautical games and other family activities take place there to the rhythms of sea song tunes. Grilled sardines and sausage patties on the menu. Every year, from the end of May to the beginning of September, the young Lorient girls Lucile and Mathilde put the wheels of their food-truck “The Penn Sardines” on the port and set up their terrace, their dynamism and their smile for the summer. They offer brunches in the morning, sardines and grilled sausages for lunch and in the evening, and above all, organize activities that delight locals and passers-by: concerts, improvisation theater or artistic workshops bring Brigneau back to life in a family atmosphere. . Do not hesitate to have a drink at the
Nautic Bar
, next to the port car park.
The bosses are the soul and the memory.
To discover, at the exit of Brigneau in the direction of
Moëlan-sur-Mer
, a municipal road leads to the superb
Kermoguer dovecote of
the seigneurial domain of the same name dating from the 15th century.
Read also From Paimpol to the Bréhat archipelago, a charming Brittany along the water
From Brigneau to Merrien, by the GR34
The mouth of Merrien and its wooded estuary with emerald waters.
Johan Ricou / Le Figaro
The best way to visit the estuary and the port of
Merrien
is to take the GR34 coastal path from Brigneau, an ocean walk very popular with local hikers. The views over the Atlantic are sublime. After 1h30 of walking in a protected natural habitat, along the ocean, the splendid emerald waters of the Merrien estuary will finally be revealed from its right bank. It is also possible to get to the left bank of Merrien by car from Brigneau (follow the direction of the port and not that of the peninsula). From the car park located after the port, the Pointe de Merrien is only a few steps away and offers a magnificent perspective of the entrance to the estuary. A wedge below even allows a few dives in the transparent waters of its mouth. On the port, an oyster farmer sells his local oysters at retail.
After this hike, you have to regain your strength.
Take the direction of Moëlan-sur-Mer then follow the indications to the
Pressoir du Garzon
.
The establishment serves excellent pancakes in a very pleasant bucolic setting, with two beautiful terraces, one covered, the other outside.
At the Pressoir du Garzon, 1, Le Clos du Garzon residence.
Moëlan-sur-Mer.
Phone.
: 02 98 09 74 49.
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Practical notebook
HOW TO GET THERE
Allow 6 hours by car from Paris or 3:30 by train to Quimperlé station (4 hours to Quimper) from Montparnasse station.
From Quimper or Quimperlé, it will only take you about forty minutes to reach Trévignon.
WHERE TO STAY
Manor of Kertalg
.
It is in a park of 87 hectares that stands this superb castle hotel, a 4-star, built in the 17th century.
Seven delightfully old-fashioned rooms await you there, a few minutes from Moëlan-sur-Mer.
This haven of peace is the perfect refuge to conclude, in peace and refinement, your days of visiting the country of Quimperlé.
The lovely Kerfany-les-Pins beach is just 10 minutes from the manor.
Manoir de Kertalg, Le Guilly, route de Riec, 29350 Moëlan-sur-Mer.
Phone.
: 02 98 39 77 77. From 160 €.
Read the file Brittany: the
Figaro
travel guide
