Everyone knows: Monaco is an El Dorado of big fortunes. One in three inhabitants would be a millionaire. Porsche, Lamborghini and Ferrari are on display in parking lots like at the Motor Show when they are not driving on manicured roads in the roar of engines. Monaco is a permanent show where you come to dream, win (or lose) at the legendary Casino and be dazzled in starred restaurants (one of which is organic). Too cramped, this state confetti (2.02 km2) constantly pushes the limits, gaining on sea, land and sky. Not an inch of land is wasted. As proof: a city within a city can be improvised underground and lush gardens and vegetable gardens bloom on the rooftops. Monaco is going green.Construction cranes form a constantly moving forest in the midst of skyscrapers. Unsurprisingly, the city exudes a unique energy, full of vitality but suffused with the languor peculiar to the south. Under the cheerful sun, the State has something to change of scenery. Starting with the photos of the Prince of Monaco displayed proudly in every business and restaurant, a tribute from the inhabitants to their sovereign. Monaco is definitely a world apart. You can easily walk there, discovering, with the help of a precious map, the various elevators and escalators allowing you to save your energy. It climbs dry! This is also what gives a certain charm to the place with the Big Blue for the horizon.Under the cheerful sun, the State has something to change of scenery. Starting with the photos of the Prince of Monaco displayed proudly in every business and restaurant, a tribute from the inhabitants to their sovereign. Monaco is definitely a world apart. You can easily walk there, discovering, with the help of a precious map, the various elevators and escalators allowing you to save your energy. It climbs dry! This is also what gives a certain charm to the place with the Big Blue for the horizon.Under the cheerful sun, the State has something to change of scenery. Starting with the photos of the Prince of Monaco displayed proudly in every business and restaurant, a tribute from the inhabitants to their sovereign. Monaco is definitely a world apart. You can easily walk there, discovering, with the help of a precious map, the various elevators and escalators allowing you to save your energy. It climbs dry! This is also what gives a certain charm to the place with the Big Blue for the horizon.the various elevators and escalators to save energy. It climbs dry! This is also what gives a certain charm to the place with the Big Blue for the horizon.the various elevators and escalators to save energy. It climbs dry! This is also what gives a certain charm to the place with the Big Blue for the horizon.
To discover
Monaco: the Figaro travel guide
Read also Confidential Monaco, intimate visit with its inhabitants and talents
ENTRY CONDITIONS
To date, entry to Monaco is conditioned by presentation of the health pass.
For more information in real time, visit the Visit Monaco website.
The arrival
From Nice, the Ligne Azur bus 100 and the train provide a regular connection with Monaco.
From Nice airport, the express line 110 connects Monaco by the motorway.
The air remains… Héli Air Monaco and Monacair offer private transfers between Nice airport and Monaco (7-minute flight) from € 650 for a 5-seater helicopter.
Héli Air Monaco
: tel.
: +377 92 050 050. heliairmonaco.com.
Monacair
: tel.
: +377 97 97 39 00. monacair.mc.
GETTING AROUND MONACO
Bus
Between 7 a.m. and 9:30 p.m., several bus lines make it easy to get around Monaco - and thus reach tourist attractions.
An evening bus runs from 9:20 p.m. to 12:20 a.m. and a night bus runs on weekends until 4:00 a.m.
Monaco Bus Company
: cam.mc.
Electric car sharing
Mobee, electric cars for rent with no parking fees.
Éric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
Monaco may have the size of a pocket handkerchief, but things go up sharply.
To go from one point to another, nothing better than to use Mobee Monaco, a 100% electric car-sharing service, with no parking fees and with dedicated spaces in the city's car parks.
Two model options: the two-seater cart (to borrow and leave where you want) or a five-seater vehicle (to pick up and drop off in one of the 9 specified car parks).
Cars can even go beyond the borders of Monaco, or even drive to Piedmont and Liguria for the largest.
From 0.45 € / minute for the cart and 0.75 € for the car.
There are also hourly and daily rates.
Mobee Monaco
: tel.
: +377 92 00 07 40. mobee.mc
Taxi
Count at least € 15 for intramural trips and at least € 95 for trips to the airport.
Taxi Monaco
: tel.
: +377 93 15 01 01. taximonaco.com
GUIDED TOUR
Former firefighter and native child, Jean-Marc Ferrié offers to discover Monaco during walks according to different themes: the F1 Grand Prix Circuit, the districts of Monte-Carlo, La Condamine or even Le Rocher but also, less known, La Via Alpina (Tel .: 06 30 12 57 03; monaco-rando.com).
MORE INFORMATIONS
Visit Monaco
: tel.
: +377 92 166 166. visitmonaco.com.
What to do now
THE EXPO TO SEE
Immersion
Before your eyes is revealed an incredible biodiversity sheltered in the heart of one of the 7 natural wonders of the world, the Great Barrier Reef, the largest coral ecosystem on the planet. Oceanographic Institute
Here, no need for a diving certificate to immerse yourself in the depths of the ocean along the coral reef. With your feet dry but your head (almost) in the water, you come face to face with beings as hypnotizing as sirens, if not more: here are humpback whales, white-tipped coral sharks, manta rays, potato groupers and of course phosphorescent orderly… Which evolve according to our movements, behaviors and gestures. Projected on XXL screens, the reconstructed images give visitors the impression of being a diver. Bewitching and magical at the same time. A great way to raise public awareness of the fragility of coral reefs. Because the virtual and interactive exhibition is the highlight of a course dedicated to coral. The exhibition swill be completed in spring 2022 to make way for another, dedicated to the polar worlds.
Immersion
at the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco, av.
Saint-Martin, 98000 Monaco.
Phone.
: +377 93 15 36 00. Adult admission from € 16.
THE BAKERY AND THE CATERER IN SIGHT
Mitron Bakery Monaco and BYO Traiteur Monaco
Chef Mauro Colagreco opened the Byo caterer for Built your own at the Marché de la Condamine.
Éric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
Here is the very last address of Mauro Colagreco, the three-star chef of the Mirazur restaurant in Menton and crowned with a green badge of “sustainable gastronomy”. After a first bakery in Menton, it has just opened, this summer, the second in the heart of the Condamine Market. He offers lively and excellent breads. They are produced at the bakehouse in Menton, from organic flour and homemade natural sourdough. From Barbu du Roussillon, to Blanc de Noé via Petit Spelled or even Wheats of Population, all offer different textures, tastes and nutritional qualities. Grab a loaf of bread and buy ham and other pleasures at the market for a picnic in the Jardins Saint-Martin. Or stop by the neighboring stand at BYO Traiteur Monaco, another Mauro Colagreco address,which makes the most greedy salivate. Affordable, starred chef cuisine.
Mitron Bakery Monaco, Condamine Market, place d'Armes, 98000 Monaco.
Phone.
: 06 78 63 83 80. Open every day, except Monday, from 7:30 am to 1:30 pm.
BYO Caterer Monaco, Condamine Market, place d'Armes 98000 Monaco.
Phone.
: 06 40 62 47 19. Hot dish from € 7 per portion.
Open every day, except Monday, from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.
THE HOTEL IN SIGHT
Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo
The hotel Métropole Monte-Carlo is located in the Carré d'Or district of Monaco Métropole Monte-Carlo / Photo press
It reopened in April 2021 after a first phase of work. Regulars will not see any change. The hotel has revisited its backstage before the major renovation operation scheduled for November. In April 2023, this legendary 1886 establishment will grow from 125 rooms and suites to just 112, including four exceptional suites. The objective is of course to offer even more comfort to its guests. Which are already well off. They fall asleep in the world of decorator Jacques Garcia and, during the day, exclusively enjoy the outdoor swimming pool (covered in winter) while swimming in front of the large photo of Karl Lagerfeld. They also benefit from unforgettable
Just for You experiences
including the most recent, “A Night at the Museum”.
You can discover the Oceanographic Museum there by night, using flashlights accompanied by a biologist guide.
Thrills guaranteed.
Night from 600 € for two people, breakfasts included.
Exclusive “One Night at the Museum” experience from 1900 € for 1 to 4 people, including return transfer from the hotel to the Museum, accompaniment with a biologist guide and a champagne and petit fours aperitif on the roof of the Museum with a breathtaking view of Monaco.
Hôtel Métropole Monte-Carlo, 4 avenue de la Madone, 98007 Monaco.
Phone.
: +377 93 15 15 15.
DAY 1: FROM THE ROCK TO THE BIG BLUE, PASSING THROUGH THE GREEN CARPET OF THE CASINO
Morning
The Palace of the Princes of Monaco.
Éric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
Climbing to the “Rocher” means walking through the history of Monaco. Which is inseparable from the Grimaldi family. It all began in the 13th century with a privateer disguised as a monk. François Grimaldi seizes the fortress erected by a Genoese community but it is Charles I who is considered to be the very first lord of Monaco (1341). Almost 700 years later, the Grimaldis still reign over the
princely palace
, one of the oldest in Europe. Unfortunately, we will not be able to visit the State Apartments - under renovation until 2022. We will therefore have to stick to the facade of the
palace
and the
changing of the guard.
at 11:55 am exactly. The sound of boots, the clapping of the hand on the thighs and the sound of weapons on the ground… The rifle ceremony is worth a look. Then turn left (the palace in front of you) to walk along the
rock
, above the water. Then take a look at the
cathedral
which reveals, in the apse, the often flowered tomb of
Grace Kelly
. In the Jardins Saint-Martin, go as close as possible to the cliff - most tourists do not go there. Stop for a moment on a bench to taste the suspended time. A few steps away, the
Oceanographic Museum
invites you to dive into the depths of the oceans.
We are familiar with dancing jellyfish in a circle, black tip sharks and all these fish in the colors of sour candy.
Allow time.
We quickly let ourselves drift in this Temple of the Sea ...
Lunch break
The natural beach of the Fishermen located at the foot of the Rock.
Éric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
Afterwards, direction the
parking lot of Chemin des Pêcheurs
very close to the Oceanographic Museum. You don't have a car? Exactly ! Get off at the bus level and exit by the road that winds along the coast. The treasure hunt has begun. Keep your eyes peeled: a discreet flight of steps leads down to the fishermen's cove, a “secret” beach as big as a pocket square. The treasure is obviously the Big Blue. On this tiny beach, we meet a bunch of students from the neighboring school who came to have a dip before class. Their lesson? Always have a swimsuit and a towel with you! We will remember it - even if the beaches are rare in Monaco. Then, head for Port Hercule. The electric water bus takes you to the other side of the shore in four minutes. The opportunity to go into ecstasies on the yachts and to see,with a little luck, those designed by Espen Oeino, designer specializing in large boats and whose offices are in the port. It's art. We may also see the boat of Eric Rinaldi, one of the last local fishermen. This summer, he returned with a 113 kg tuna caught off Monaco. Fishing is his whole life. And he's already teaching it to his son. He holds the tasting
U Luvassu fishery
where a few chairs and tables are set up in front of the impressive bar.
We land there at the water's edge.
Afternoon
At the Casino, you can simply have a drink and taste the unique atmosphere of the place.
Éric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
Not far from there, an elevator connects the port to
Monte-Carlo
, one of the city's nine districts. This is another part of the history of this small state. In the 19th century, Monaco lost Roquebrune and Menton, impoverishing the principality's coffers. At the request of Prince Charles III, businessman François Blanc founded the Casino de Monte-Carlo to attract a wealthy foreign clientele. Nothing is very beautiful. We spend without counting. Later, we will even invite Charles Garnier who will draw the opera in the Casino itself - a must see during a show. As for the
Casino
, the guided tours being temporarily canceled, the best is to discover the places on your own - without obligation of play. The sesame (no flip-flops or shorts and an identity card) opens on richly decorated rooms and bathed in natural light. The frescoes and paintings recall the time of the “demi-mondaines” who once accompanied great fortunes such as the famous Belle Otero. Note the clock, a legacy of another time when players ran to catch their train and go home… It was the time when there were not yet so many hotels in Monaco. At the Casino, you can simply have a drink and taste the unique atmosphere of the place. We learn that the “real” Monegasques (those who have Monegasque nationality) cannot take part in the games:they are prohibited - including the Prince of Monaco. It's time to leave and continue the ride to the
Larvotto beach
through the
Japanese Garden
and the Grimaldi Forum.
Finish with the
Villa Sauber
which is part of the New National Museum of Monaco.
The exhibitions are always of good quality.
Tiredness ?
We suspected ...
Having dinner
On the Place du Casino, everyone is on their 31s. We make efforts to clean up.
A stone's throw away, all the gratin is at
Gaïa
, an address that was born in Dubai and then moved here.
Besides, you can feel it: you can hear all languages, from Russian to Italian, including English.
The "fish bar" is a gem.
And the plate, of Greek inspiration, is splendid.
An example ?
Sea bream carpaccio, accompanied by coarse salt and olive oil with lemon or mandarin or truffle.
As beautiful as it is good.
DAY 2: MONACO SEEN FROM ABOVE, DIVING IN THE WATER AND IN THE EXHIBITIONS
Morning
Greenhouses in the exotic garden.
Éric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
How to embrace Monaco at a glance? From the heights of course. So we take the key to the fields to La
Turbie
, in France. With the car parked, we trudge a bit until we reach the rocks plunging into the city. Impressive when the rising sun caresses the skyscrapers and the waters. On the way down, stop at
Villa Paloma
, the other address of the
New National Museum
, open according to the contemporary art exhibition program. This 20th century house has a very pleasant garden with an unobstructed view. But for how long? It is said here that no one owns their sight. Next door, the
Exotic Garden
being under construction until early 2022, we will opt for a trip to the greenhouses of
the Botanical Center,
whose glass and iron structure was designed by architects Fabrice Notari and Rudy Ricciotti.
There, 10,500 plants - 500 in containers and 10,000 in pots - flourish.
Lunch break
At the Condamine Market, you can browse multiple flavors from the different stands.
Éric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
The belly of Monaco can be found at the
Marché de la Condamine
. You can browse multiple flavors from the different stands.
Aroca
is an excellent choice, filled with southern sunshine including the famous red and white pissaladière and the
local specialty
barbajuan
. A word of advice: go early because everything disappears very quickly. You can sit on benches and tables, at the market, or take out. The other option?
The Pearls of Monte-Carlo at the Port of Fontvieille
.
Pearls can be found in oysters refined on site by Brice Cachia and Frédéric Rouxeville, two trained biologists.
On the menu, too, prawns, langoustine, gilthead sea bream ... It's good, it's fresh and in the good franquette.
On the sunny terrace, at the edge of the water and at the foot of the princely palace, one could almost smell the scent of tobacco of Captain Haddock ...
Afternoon
Two cars from the private car collection of HSH the Prince of Monaco.
At the wheel Valérie Closier, director of the collection in front of the Notre-Dame Immaculée cathedral.
Éric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
Two possibilities: sea or land. Who hasn't heard of Pierre Frolla, whose record includes four world records in freediving, three in free immersion and one in variable weight? This fun-loving Monegasque loves nothing less than sharing his passion, diving. In its
Monegasque Sea Academy
, it is possible to discover scuba diving or freediving off Monaco. With a little luck, we might meet the champion there. On the road side, the
collection of cars from HSH the Prince of Monaco
calls us headlights. It's hard not to give in to temptation. Started by Prince Rainier III at the end of the 1950s, this collection continued to grow with Albert II today bringing together around a hundred models. All eras are presented there, starting with the horse-drawn carriage or the Leyat propeller car from before the First World War. And then, let's dream a little: Rolls Royce, Lincoln, Facel Vega, Napier, Ferrari, Maserati, Lamborghini… Without forgetting the Lexus of the princely wedding of 2011 and the Chrysler Imperial which welcomed Grace Kelly on her arrival in 1956. The sea, the earth… And art! It's at the
Logoscope
that Agnès Roux programs contemporary art exhibitions, willingly crossing disciplines.
This place, not very large and unknown, is a hive of artists in residence or guests whose workshops can be visited by appointment.
Painters, ceramists, dancers, choreographers and many others question the notions of "territory".
It is another pearl of Monaco whose building is… in France.
And yes, it is on the other side of the Monegasque street.
Having dinner
The three-star chef Mauro Colagreco in the Restaurant Komo.
Éric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
Komo
is a "three in one".
Include: a concept store, a pastry shop and a restaurant.
But not just any… The boutique brings together different brands of fashion and accessories, the sweets are signed by Pierre Hermé and the restaurant menu was designed by the starred chef Mauro Colagreco (again him!).
In short,
the place to be… and to eat
!
Address Book
RESTAURANTS
U Luvassu fishmonger owned by fisherman Eric Rinaldi.
Éric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
U Luvassu fishery, 8 quai l'Hirondelle, 98000 Monaco.
Phone.
: +377 97 77 07 51. From € 9 per portion of Mediterranean Swordfish tartare (100 gr.).
Open at noon only, closed on Sunday.
Gaïa, 15 Galerie Charles III, 98000 Monaco.
Phone.
: +377 99 99 09 69. From € 38 per dish.
Open every day, from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Aroca, Condamine Market, 15 avenue place d'Armes, 98000 Monaco.
Phone.
: +377 97 77 16 84. From € 5.50 a cone of 5
barbajuan
.
Dish of the day from € 10.
Open Tuesday to Sunday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.
The Pearls of Monte-Carlo, quai Jean-Charles Rey, 98000 Monaco.
Phone.
: +377 97 77 84 31. From € 20 per dish.
Open Monday to Saturday from 12 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. and in the evening on Wednesday and Thursday from 7 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Mandatory reservation.
Komo Monaco, 18 rue de Millo, 98000 Monaco.
Phone.
: +377 97 70 56 11. From € 22 per dish.
Restaurant from Monday to Friday from noon to 10 p.m.
Concept-store and pastry shop from Monday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Read also Chic or no frills, 20 addresses to discover the Monaco of the Monegasques
MUSEUMS AND CULTURAL PLACES
Oceanographic Museum of Monaco, av.
Saint-Martin, 98000 Monaco.
Phone.
: +377 93 15 36 00.
New National Museum of Monaco:
Villa Paloma 56, boulevard du Jardin Exotique.
Phone.
: +377 98 98 48 60.
Villa Sauber 17, avenue Princesse Grace.
Phone.
: +377 98 98 91 26.
Collection of cars SAS the prince of Monaco, 5, terrasses de Fontvieille, 98000 Monaco.
Phone.
: +377 92 05 28 56.
Logoscope, place de la crémaillère, 06240 Beausoleil (next to the Palais Gallia).
Phone.
: 06 62 83 38 01.
Ballets de Monte-Carlo at the Opéra de Monte-Carlo Salle Garnier
Monte-Carlo Opera House, Place du Casino, 98000 Monaco.
Phone.
: +377 98 06 28 28.
CASINO
Casino de Monte-Carlo, place du Casino, 98000 Monaco.
Phone.
: +377 98 06 20 00.
SPORT
Monegasque Academy of the Sea, Larvotto beach, 98000 Monaco.
Phone.
: 06 78 63 50 52.
SHOPPING
L'Orangerie - The Monaco Distillery.
Éric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
L'Orangerie, 9, rue de la Turbie, 98000 Monaco.
Phone.
+377 99 90 43 38. Still today, 600 orange trees line the streets of the Principality.
Once a year, sunny citrus fruits are hand picked, washed and peeled in the workshop and added to a preserved recipe to create the one and only Monegasque liqueur.
HOTELS
Columbus Monte-Carlo
Columbus Hotel.
Éric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
Dans le quartier de Fontvieille, le Columbus Monte-Carlo est un brin à l'écart de l'agitation monégasque. Lancé par David Coulthard, pilote de Formule 1, l'hôtel a, depuis, continué sa belle course. Son point fort ? Ses petites attentions, discrètes et chaleureuses de l'équipe. L'établissement a gardé une certaine simplicité, très appréciable à Monaco. Son restaurant décline des saveurs de la Méditerranée. À partir de 171 € la chambre double.
Columbus Monte-Carlo, 23 avenue des Papalins, 98000 Monaco. Tél. : +377 92 05 90 00.
À lire aussiL'hôtel Columbus Monte-Carlo, l'avis d'expert du Figaro
Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo
Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo. Le petit dejeuner est servi sous la coupole de verre et d'acier signée Gustave Eiffel. Éric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
Un cadre merveilleux encore empli de l'ambiance Belle Époque… L'Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo est une agréable balade dans le temps. Sa nouveauté ? Le restaurant Yannick Alléno à l'Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo. Le chef étoilé y compose une cuisine de produits locaux dont la carte évolue au fil des saisons. La terrasse est divine. À partir de 425 € la chambre double.
Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo, square Beaumarchais, 98000 Monaco. Tél. : +377 98 06 20 00.
À lire aussiHôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo, l'avis d'expert du Figaro
Novotel Monte-Carlo
Novotel Monte-Carlo. Éric Martin / Le Figaro Magazine
A nice surprise.
Right in the city center, the hotel displays the colors and taste of the sea, Riviera style.
All the decoration evokes the Big Blue up to the team dressed in a striped sweater.
Recently renovated, the hotel should soon begin work on its rooftop terrace with a sublime view.
From € 200 per double room.
Novotel Monte-Carlo, 16 bld Princesse Charlotte.
Phone.
: +377 99 99 83 00.
Read alsoThe Novotel Monte-Carlo in Monaco, the expert opinion of
Le Figaro