For the Catalans, the Canigó (Canigou) is more than a mountain, it is a symbol, a lighthouse.
With its 2,784 meters, you can see it from afar and “the peak” is also a place of pilgrimage from which the Saint-Jean flame leaves every spring.
With the key, these last decades a noticeable increase in the traffic of the cars which could, until recently, reach up to 2000 meters of altitude.
"It is this attendance that put the entire massif in danger," recalls Florian Chardon, director of the mixed union which watches over the Catalan mountains.
Moreover, this union was created in the mid-1990s following the closure of a first access to 2,400 m above sea level.
25 years later, forest tracks have deteriorated and maintenance and safety issues have become more pressing.
The guards of the Mariailles refuge (1,800 m above sea level), Laurent and Magali, have not noticed a drop in attendance despite the ban on cars.
LP / Yann Kernevo
The State and the National Forestry Office (ONF), owner and manager of the site, ended up deciding.
It is no longer possible to access the massif by car, not above 1,000 m in altitude in any case, since the damage caused by storm Gloria in January 2020. Even taxis, which provided on demand , until 2019, part of the ascent now remains in the garage.
"The peak is at least six hours of walking"
“From where we start now, it's at least six hours of walking to reach the top of the peak, against an hour and a half before, when we could drive up to the Cortalets refuge”, summarizes Florian Chardon .
We had to let pass the storm and the anger of those who used to get into the car.
Has attendance declined for all that?
Difficult to see clearly since the Covid has been there, with a capacity of mountain refuges restricted between 60 and 80%.
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But the trends are interesting.
“When you look at the first estimates for 2021, it's encouraging.
The two shelters most affected by these access closures are doing almost as well as in 2019, the reference year for attendance, for Mariailles, and much better for Les Cortalets.
The profile of hikers is also changing.
"Today we are perhaps on a more sporty profile than before, we are seeing development, in addition to hiking, cycling, treks with donkeys, climbing, bivouac ..."
Likely effect of the Covid, the locals have also reappropriated the place, just like the people of Toulouse and Montpellier.
If it is difficult to estimate how many people roam the massif, the peak of Canigou welcomes, every year, between 28,000 and 32,000 people on its roof.