Celebrate the breadfruit (the nickname of the chestnut tree) at the Castagnades
In Ardèche, the chestnut is queen!
Cultivated since the 13th century, recognized by an AOC since 2006, it is the emblematic fruit of the department, the largest producer in France with 5,000 tonnes per year.
An ancestral culture celebrated every autumn during the Castagnades.
For a month, from October 16 to November 14, around ten villages in the Ardèche Mountains Regional Natural Park (Privas, Chalencon, Vesseaux, Antraigues-sur-Volane ...) organize farmers' and craftsmen's markets, roast chestnuts, culinary demonstrations and games, historical and gourmet tours or even hiking in honor of the breadfruit. In a good-natured and warm atmosphere, local producers, artisans, residents and visitors come together to taste grilled chestnuts and toast with new wine. But also to think. In resonance with the 20th anniversary of the creation of the park and because the chestnut groves are particularly affected by climate change, the Castagnades have indeed chosen ecology as the common thread of the2021 edition.
Our advice:
linger in the village of Vesseaux, at the gateway to southern Ardèche.
High place of the Ardèche chestnut production with its trees on the hillsides and its chestnut market, this locality nestled at the foot of the Escrinet massif conceals a 12th century priory church whose surprising bell tower is covered with tiles. colored glazed.
Its porch is listed as a Historic Monument.
Read also In southern Ardèche, travel to the heart of prehistory
Learn about castaneic culture
The chestnuts are picked by hand or vacuumed, before being sorted for sale.
M.Rissoan-ADT07
The chestnut has long been a source of food of primary importance for the Ardéchois, and its culture reached its peak in the 1860s. Heirs to this golden age, Martine, Michel and Aurélien Grange, chestnut farmers for seven generations, perpetuate this tradition. traditional know-how which has forged the identity of the territory.
In Lamastre, a small town at the gateway to the Monts d'Ardèche regional natural park, these three enthusiasts willingly share the secrets of processing chestnuts during visits accompanied by their aptly named Chestnut Farm. In the 25 hectares of the chestnut grove where some trees took root more than three centuries ago, the lucky ones will be able to witness the fruit picking, by hand or with a vacuum cleaner. They will then be sorted to be sold as fruit for the palate, or, for smaller sizes, processed on site into chestnut cream, jam, preserves or flour. A stopover to be discovered in the workshop, also open to the public (during the Covid period, a commented film replaces the visit).
Chestnut farm, Le Roux, 07270 Lamastre.
Phone.
: 06 25 12 63 17..
Until November 7, Wednesday and Saturday at 3:30 p.m.
Free visit.
Our advice:
remember to book a homemade snack served in the old goat farm which also serves as a shop (95 chestnut-based specialties or not available for sale).
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Our five charming hotels
Dive into the heart of the matter in the village of Joyeuse
The Castanea museum tells how the chestnut forged the identity of the territory.
L. Clarke-ADT07
In southern Ardèche, between Cévennes and Provence, legend attributes the name of the
medieval city of Joyeuse
to the eponymous sword of Charlemagne who came to war in these mountains.
After a stroll through the narrow streets and arched passages of the upper town, enclosed in its ramparts, take the time to visit the museum dedicated to the cultivation of chestnuts.
Housed in the former college of the Oratorians, an imposing building built in the 1620s today classified as historical monuments, Castanea is interested in the unique history linking the Ardéchois to this fruit and tells how it forged the identity of the territory.
Accessible to all, this fun and educational discovery area houses in particular a large collection of old tools.
Castanea, 2 church square, 07260 Joyeuse.
Phone.
: 04 75 39 90 66. Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 2 to 6 pm until November 7 inclusive.
From € 3 to € 6.50.
Our advice:
from the heights of the Puech hill, located about ten kilometers from Joyeuse and adorned with a charming chapel of Sainte-Apollonie, enjoy the beautiful 360 ° panorama over the land of Vans, the last foothills of the Cévennes , and the Tanargue massif.
From bug to plate
Duck foie gras with chestnuts and candied chestnuts served in the Brioude restaurant, in a former 19th century post house in Neyrac-les-Bains.
L. Clarke-ADT07
If we know the delicious chestnut grilled or boiled in water, if we know its formidable nutritional values and its health benefits - its absence of gluten makes it particularly digestible - this emblematic fruit of autumn has an image rather rustic. A perception that does not share Claude Brioude, chef of the restaurant "Brioude", housed in a former 19th century post house in Neyrac-les-Bains.
Ardéchois pure juice, resulting from a very long line of restaurateurs (since 1884), he praises, on the contrary, the beautiful complexity of this fruit to which he devoted a work
Chestnut, the uncrowned queen of the kitchen
.
And proves it with a duck foie gras with chestnuts and candied chestnuts, perfect illustration of its distinguished locavore and neat cuisine, in 2020, of a Michelin plate (50 euros for the 4-course tasting menu, cheese and dessert, 65 euros for the 5 menu. tasting dishes, cheese and dessert).
Note the recent opening of a bistro area offering, for lunch, a bistronomic dish and dessert formula at 19 euros.
Restaurant Brioude, 7, rue Mazade, Neyrac-les-Bains, 07380 Meyras.
Phone.
: 04 75 36 41 07.
Our advice:
because the Ardèche is the leading producer of wild blueberries in France, in season, we let ourselves be tempted by Papy Jeannot's tart: freshly warmed blueberries on a candied orange frangipane and a fine au lemon zest.
Hiking in fall colors
In the fall, hikes in Ardèche are accompanied by subtle play of lights.
Dominica - stock.adobe.com
The Ardèche forest is never as beautiful as in autumn when the chestnut trees are adorned with warm reflections, a subtle blend of yellow and orange. To take advantage of these plays of light and still savor the mild temperatures, the
hike to Ferme du Rouyon
, a perfectly marked loop (in yellow and white) for half a day, takes you along an old mule track, from
Laviolle
to the ruins of an old farm (Ferme du Rouyon) totally isolated.
The rest of the walk connects with a superb view of the unspoiled Volane valley, and a few invitations to daydream along the eponymous river, one of the prettiest and wildest in Ardèche.
Arrived at the
hamlet of Villaret
, you will take the same path as on the outward journey.
Our advice:
of medium difficulty with a delicate but magnificent passage, this hike of 12.5 km and 490 m of vertical drop is to be avoided in periods of heavy rain (fording) and requires good shoes.
Christmas shopping
Candied chestnuts, the perfect gift for the holidays.
Claude Fougeirol
Inseparable from the Christmas holidays,
frozen chestnut
, a delicious ephemeral confectionery, is an Ardèche specialty. To discover its manufacturing secrets, head to Privas where
Clément Faugier
, then mayor of the city, had the idea of creating, in 1882, the first industrial manufacturing company of candied chestnuts. Then, a few years later, to recover the broken pieces to make cream. Today, adjoining the factory, a
boutique museum
allows visitors to discover the history of the company, the stages of manufacture and stock up on specialties (free entry, all year).
Another essential house,
Sabaton
, created in 1907 in Aubenas which offers, among other varieties, candied chestnuts made in a traditional way from chestnuts from Ardèche AOP.
On sale in the Aubenas boutique (Monday to Friday, 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and 1:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m.) or online.
Address Book
OR SLEEP
In the regional natural park of the Ardèche mountains
The Blue Wolf Cabins.
Unusual accommodation or traditional guest rooms, the Cabanes du Loup Bleu have taken root in We come there to go for walks, in electric mountain bikes or on horseback, to participate in ceramic workshops and to taste the mainly vegetarian table d'hôtes. .
From € 160 per night for 2 people with breakfast (2 nights minimum, until October 31 and from April 1, 2022).
Les Cabanes du Loup bleu, 2340, route de Saint-Louis, La Sautellerie, 07380 La Souche.
Phone.
: 07 67 13 55 59.
The farm of Chalas.
Pretty permaculture micro-farm engaged in an ecological transition process (it has, among other things, initiated the rehabilitation of 3 ha of chestnut groves), this brand new address offers 5 guest rooms, naturopathic workshops and treatments and initiations in permaculture.
From € 66 per double room with organic and local breakfast, € 22 per table d'hôtes for a minimum of 6 people.
Possibility to share the family meal, 2 people maximum, free participation.
10 to 20% discount on the stay for those helping out on the farm (until November 7 and from April 1, 2022).
Ferme de Chalas, Le Chalas Bas, 07110 Valgorge.
Phone.
: 06 51 36 91 67.
The Little Green Court.
Superb 16th century country house set with chestnut trees and heather, this welcoming guest house offers 5 bedrooms and a wellness area (swimming pool, hammam and sauna).
From € 95 per night in a double room with breakfast (until mid-November).
Evening meals from € 29.
The little green courtyard, La Roche, 07110 Beaumont.
Phone.
: 04 75 39 58 88.
Castagnades weekend:
the Aubenas-Vals- Antraïgues tourist office offers turnkey stays of 2 days 1 night in guest rooms or in a hotel including: night + breakfast, lunch at the restaurant, visit of Castanea .
From 100 € per pers.
Aubenas-Vals- Antraïgues tourist office: 04 75 37 04 55.
GOOD TABLES
In the Doux valley
La Ferme Auberge de Jameysse.
Stuffed meats, gratins, pies, chestnut mousse cake… Cathy's invigorating cuisine is simmered in a wood oven using farm and local produce.
The perfect address to warm up after a long walk in the forest.
From € 25.50 the special Castagnades menu (€ 12.50 for children).
Reservation essential.
Ferme Auberge de Jameysse, 07570 Désaignes.
Phone.
: 04 75 06 62 94.
Close to the Gorges de l'Ardèche
The last stop.
Housed in a former 19th century hotel-restaurant, this bistronomic restaurant located in the south of Aubenas cultivates simplicity and authenticity.
The menu is short and tasty, like the roast pork from here, creamy polenta-Jerusalem artichoke, beer sauce from here too.
Note a nice wine list from Ardèche and elsewhere.
Daily menu from € 17.
The Terminus, 124 rue Nationale, 07120 Ruoms.
Phone.
: 04 75 35 54 33.
North of Privas
The cherry on the lamb.
Backed by the Ardelaine site, this bistro-style restaurant serves 100% homemade locavore cuisine.
À la carte: revisited Ardèche specialties enhanced with a pinch of spices or a zest of edible wild plants.
Adult menu from 23 to 34 €, main course + dessert 18 €.
Special Castagnades menu: € 29.
The cherry on the lamb, 363-A route de Tauzuc, 07190 Saint-Pierreville.
Phone.
: 04 75 66 62 66.
* This article, originally published on October 9, 2020, has been updated.
