At the origin of the unique relationship between Portugal and
bacalhau
(cod in Portuguese), there is the will of the regime of Salazar (New State, 1933-1974) to achieve food autonomy, in particular by means of a massive cod fishery in the cold and hostile waters of Newfoundland or Greenland. A priority for the dictatorial state of this country, which imported 90% of what it consumed. Fishermen from all over the coast were then massively mobilized and sent to the Atlantic aboard mother ships, from where they were dropped in the midst of waves and icebergs, in tiny wooden boats called
dori
.
The propaganda of the new State was put at the service of this national cause, with the culmination of an annual mass organized at the Hieronymites Monastery in Belém, a nod to the glorious period of maritime discoveries, which the regime dreamed of finding.
To discover
Lisbon: the Figaro travel guide
Presented as heroes, the fishermen were even exempt from conscription and escaped colonial wars in Africa.
This was needed to convince them to venture into the mission as trying as it was dangerous to "
Bring back to the country the bread of the seas
".
Under the impetus of Salazar, who organized his fishing and his trade, the
bacalhau
thus gradually became "the faithful friend" of a needy population, "the meat of the poor" which one found at all the tables. and on any occasion.
A fish whose connection to the nation does not exist anywhere else.
Here are our tips for getting the most out of its history and gastronomy, at the table, on the go, canned, at the museum or in your suitcase!
At table
Rule # 1 for enjoying cod: eat it over and over again!
Terra Nova by Populi
The best way to discover cod is… to eat it!
The most possible.
Because do not think that a quick tasting will allow you to appreciate all the contours: in carpaccio or tartare, in donut, in tapas (
petisco
), boiled, roasted, grilled with embers, fried, in fillet or sliver, in daily or at Christmas, as a toast (
tiborna
), starter or main course, in the style of Lisbon, Porto or Braga, with curry or candied ... There are indeed a thousand and one ways to prepare this ex-libris from the cuisine of the country, as proudly claimed by its inhabitants.
And as for the pig, in the cod, everything is good!
So do not be surprised to find on certain
menus
dishes composed of cheeks (
bochechas
) or heads (
cara
) of bacalhau, or parts of its stomach (
bucho
);
bacalhau
tongues (
linguas
) can be enjoyed cooked with rice or breaded;
as for its eggs, fresh or smoked, they make excellent tapas.
On the go
Tradition or modernity?
You choose !
Casa do Bacalhau
Do you have a sudden hunger pang when you visit the sometimes steep historic center of Lisbon? Reassure your stomach: "the faithful friend" can be eaten at any time, in the form of a donut similar to West Indian acras (but without chili), the
pastel de bacalhau
(
bolinho de bacalhau
in the north of Portugal). Based on cod, potato and parsley, its recipe dates from 1904 and from a cookery treatise by an officer in the Portuguese army. You will find it in almost all the cafes in the country, but with a small downside: in order not to lose any of its crispness, it must be eaten hot, which is rarely the case.
In recent years, a fashion has emerged, far from unanimous: the cod fritter with the famous creamy
Queijo da Serra
cheese
. Some see it as a sacrilege, an affront to an immutable formula. Others appreciate this alliance of two emblematic products of Portuguese gastronomy. Traditionalist or avant-garde? Try both and make up your own mind! If you are feeling the conservative soul, Tasca Estrela d'Ouro (Graça district) offers excellent classic donuts. But if modernity is your preference, rush to the controversial donuts at Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau, at the origin of the concept and which now has many points of sale. They are prepared in front of you and served hot.
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Canned...
Assortments of preserves make the perfect gift.
Mael Sandro Ricou
Lisbon is known for its incredible canned fish and among sardines, salmon, lampreys, octopus and mackerel, cod has also been canned since the 1930s. The "poor man's meat" is then appreciated grilled or boiled, with olive oil and garlic.
His smoked eggs are also a great classic.
In Lisbon, the two historic canning factories of the capital are located a few meters from each other, a stone's throw from the Place du Commerce, in the aptly named “
Rua dos Bacalhoeiros
” (
bacalhau
merchant street
).
La Conserveira de Lisboa, the oldest (1930), has preserved the old-fashioned charm of the shops and packaging typical of the early 20th century.
La Conserveira Comur, born in the city of Aveiro in 1940, offers packaging with a much more modern design, in bright colors, making up magnificent shelves.
In both cases, you will find quality products and delicious gastronomic souvenirs to offer to those around you.
Assortments are always very popular.
... or at the museum
Discover the history of
bacalhau
at the museum dedicated to it.
Turismo de Lisboa - Lismarketing - CIHBacalhau
It was in 2020 that the Center for the Interpretation of the History of Cod opened the doors of its exhibition dedicated to Portugal's faithful friend. Located in the city center of the capital, on the main Place du Commerce, it retraces in a few thematic rooms (saga, life on board, propaganda, at the table ...) the story of a fish intimately associated with the culture of the country ; that of its fishermen who once braved the hostile seas of the North Atlantic on frail wooden boats; or the policy of the Salazar regime, which raised cod fishing to a national priority.
The little ones will appreciate the reconstruction of the experience of these brave Portuguese, in a special room at a very cool temperature, sitting in a moving boat, surrounded by images of strong swells and dangerous icebergs… At the exit, a superb boutique will allow you to extend the adventure.
Bacalhau
plush
for children, Atlantic cod sold in sealed packaging, cans, tableware or themed t-shirts: if you want to put a little cod in your life, go for it!
One regret: the audio elements and the subtitles of the videos are not translated into French.
Without fluency in English or Portuguese, there is no salvation.
Praça do Comercio |
Every day, from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. |
Adult, € 4;
6-15 years, € 2;
+ 65 years, € 3;
Lisboa Card, free.
Bring cod in the suitcase
Shop specializing in the sale of cod, in the historic city center of Lisbon.
Johan Ricou / Le Figaro
Are you dying to wow your family or friends by preparing a
typical Portuguese
bacalhau
recipe
, discovered during your holidays or your weekend in the land of Fernando Pessoa?
Nothing could be simpler: there are many stalls specializing in the sale of cod, whole or cut, in pieces or tapered, in tins or in airtight bags that are easy to transport, including by plane (for those who do not have it). never been confronted, know that the scents given off by this salted fish are close to unbearable for the most delicate nostrils).
Rua do Arsenal (which leaves from Place du Commerce) once swarmed with fragrant, traditional cod shops.
Two resisted, the Rei do Bacalhau grocery store and the Pérola do Arsenal.
The famous and ancient Mantegaria Silva, in central Lisbon, has also been known for the quality of its bacalhau since 1956. Its excellent smoked ham (
presunto
) is also worth a visit.
Otherwise, supermarkets all have a section devoted to cod.
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