48 hours in Helsinki, from nature to design

With 650,000 inhabitants spread over a peninsula of around 3,000 km2, the northernmost metropolis on the planet is also one of the least densely populated. The feeling of space is the first thing that strikes you in Helsinki. The vast avenues with geometric squares bordered by sometimes austere buildings have a false Soviet air, but right next to them, the Art Nouveau buildings with ornaments inspired by Finnish flora and fauna, remind us that nature is never far away. Omnipresent, the sea widens the horizon while the many parks form green spots suitable for bike rides or cross-country skiing in winter. The functionalist architecture of the brilliant Alvar Aalto blends in perfectly with this environment.Its harmonious buildings with clean lines remain the benchmark for the young generation of Finnish designers and architects who are taking up the torch. On the way to Finland!

The arrival

TO VISIT

The city offers a pass, the Helsinki Card, valid for 24, 48 or 72 hours, allowing you to reach the city center from the airport, to get around, to enter many museums and to benefit from discounts on attractions, bars and restaurants.

The map can be downloaded on a smartphone.

From 51 €.

MOVE

Vantaa International Airport is located about fifteen kilometers from the city center.

Both the I and P train lines connect with Helsinki Central Station in 30 minutes.

The price of a ticket is around € 5.

Managed by the company HSL, public transport in the Finnish capital is convenient and reliable.

To get around, you can take the metro, bus, tram and ferry to Suomenlinna Island.

The network serves the entire city and the suburbs.

From € 8 for a day pass.

The HSL company also has an app that you can download to your smartphone

MORE INFORMATIONS

Helsinki Tourist Office:

Finnish Tourist Board:

visitfinland.com

What to do now

THE EXPO TO SEE

Bill Viola, Inner Journey

Amos Rex offers temporary exhibitions of contemporary art, such as Bill Viola's

, until February 27, 2022. Amos Rex

A veritable Finnish Palais de Tokyo, located on Mannerheimintie, Helsinki's main thoroughfare, Amos Rex hosts 12 videos of

, some of which are presented to the public for the first time. Always inspired by water, threatening or creative, but also influenced by the great masters of classical painting, the pope of video art has found an ideal space to present his installations in this museum opened in 2018. Established in the enclosure of Lasipalatsi, a famous functionalist building, Amos Rex occupies the former parking lot of the site. Domes emerging from the earth light up the museum spaces and create an urban space conducive to strolling.

Amos Rex, Bill Viola - Inner Journey, until February 27, 2022, Mannerheimintie 22–24.

00100 Helsinki.

Open Monday to Friday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

20 € entry

THE RIGHT TABLE

Nolla

Zero waste is the cry of the title, because Nolla means zero in Finnish.

Luka Balac, arrives from Serbia, Carlos Henriques brings his Portuguese madness and Albert Franch Sunyer his Barcelona delusions.

Nolla / Photo press

Located in the trendy district of Punavuori, Nolla (which means zero) is a nugget where the “zero waste” philosophy does not affect the quality of the menu and the aesthetics of the place, with designer and warm furniture as it should be. Helsinki.

Designed by three young chefs from Catalonia, Portugal and Serbia, Nolla does not accept packaging from its suppliers, uses recycled materials for glasses and dishes, has its own micro-brewery and has its own composter for swallow up the leftovers of customers… which are scarce because the quality is at the rendezvous.

Mention for the fish of the day (local perch) and its very refined horseradish sauce.

Count around € 50 per person, wine or beer included.

Nolla, Fredrikinkatu 22, 00120 Helsinki.

Phone: +358 40 163 9313.

Read alsoThree gourmet reasons to go to Helsinki

THE HOTEL IN SIGHT

Scandic Grand Central

The very cozy rooms, designed by Jaakko Puro, of the Scandic Grand Central in Helsinki.

Scandic Grand Central / Photo press

The Swedish chain Scandic opened in spring 2021 this new establishment in the western part of Helsinki station, an iconic Art Nouveau building built by Eliel Saarinen at the beginning of the last century. It took several years of restoration to revive these old offices (whose doors have been preserved as decorative elements), now transformed into almost 500 rooms spread over the original building and a contemporary wing. The gigantic size of the corridors, cleverly lit, are tempered by very cozy rooms, designed by Jaakko Puro, an interior designer renowned for his renovations of historic buildings. The brasserie-inspired restaurant and the beautiful bar with its patio are perfect for a break after exploring the city. From € 110 per room, breakfast included.

Scandic Grand Central Helsinki, Vilhonkatu 13, 00100 Helsinki.

Phone: +358 9 68291700.

DAY 1: IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF ALVAR AALTO

Morning

Helsinki Central Station, an imposing granite building lined with monumental statues.

Anton Balazh / stock.adobe.com

In Helsinki, architecture tells the story of the city. Guarding the entrance to the

, four square-jawed giants do not seem to impress the Helsinkians who rush to catch their train. These huge granite statues refer to the Kalavela, the national epic, born at the end of the 19th century with the “Jugendstil” or “National Romanticism” movement, in reaction to Swedish domination and Russian expansionist wills. As you stroll through the center of the Finnish capital, other Art Nouveau details stand out, such as the superb animals and leprechauns carved into the walls of the

insurance building

at the corner of Mikonkatu and Aleksanterinkatu streets. Just in front,the brand new

offers a fine selection of contemporary Finnish designers who respect the environment in fashion and decor. There are also books and an art gallery upstairs. A stone's throw away, bordering the Espalanadi where Helsinki's chic boutiques are located,

is one of the must-see places. The famous glassware manufacturer is reissuing many masterpieces such as the “Ultima Thule” line by Tappio Virkkala, inspired by the melting ice in Lapland. The other great Finnish design brand,

(contraction of art and technology) born in the 1930s to disseminate the production of Alvar Aalto, is onlya few hundred meters away… The genesis of all these objects as beautiful as they are functional is told in the small

which should soon expand with the creation of a new complex combining design and architecture, located on the docks.

Lunch break

At the end of Esplanadi Park, near the famous Stockmann store,

, opened in 2019, combines Parisian and modernist inspiration, with white tablecloths and vintage Ilmari Tapiovaara chairs, in a bright place.

The menu offers local recipes including a succulent whitefish carpaccio, caught in the Gulf of Finland.

The manager of the restaurant, of French origin, offers a menu of carefully chosen French wines.

We leave the restaurant invigorated.

Count around € 29 for the lunch menu, without wines.

Afternoon

Designed after the war, the garden city of Espoo is punctuated by buildings built by the best Finnish architects.

Adobe Stock

A few steps separate Alexanderplats from the central station where a short metro ride to

(around 15 minutes) leads into the heart of the

, west of the city center.

Designed after the war, this garden city is punctuated by buildings built by the best Finnish architects, Alvar Aalto in the lead but also Aarno Ruusuvuori, who built there in 1960 a gigantic printing house all in glass and concrete.

For the past fifteen years, this magnificent brutalist building has been converted into a museum, the

(open every day except Monday. 12 € entry).

Nearly 10,000 works are exhibited, representing different art movements from the twentieth century to the present day through several collections.

One of them is dedicated to the designer couple Rut Bryck and Tapio Virkkala.

Illustrations, fabrics, ceramics, glasses, sculptures, testify to their prolific creation which marked the Scandinavian aesthetic.

In the district of Munkkiniemi, the house of Alvar Aalto built in 1936. THE AALTO HOUSE

A little further south, along the Baltic, the residential district of

is only a few bus stops away. It is in the heart of this wooded suburb by the sea that the

(25 € entry from Tuesday to Saturday by reservation). This discreet house with a flat roof, built in 1936, opens with large bay windows onto a south-facing interior garden. The “Magus of the North”, as he was nicknamed, lived there all his life with his family. We admire the chairs, stools, flowerpots, fabrics and door handles… Every detail, fascinating in its simplicity, is iconic… A few hundred meters away,

(20 € entry from Tuesday to Saturday by reservation) was designed 20 years later in rounding around an amphitheater garden.

Here too, elegance and natural light predominate.

Evening

Return to the heart of Helsinki, on the Esplanadi to admire the sunset at the

, legendary restaurant decorated by Aino and Alvar Aalto, whose terrace offers a panoramic view stretching to the port. Bathed in an orange light bringing out the warm tones of wood, a material so dear to the architect, the restaurant room is located on the 8th floor of an Art Deco building. A flagship address for 80 years, the Savoy had lost its luster under the impact of several renovations. In 2019, British designer Ilse Crawford, in partnership with Artek, painstakingly recreated the original ambiance by stripping the woods, adding pendant lights created by Aalto and replacing the fabrics of the chairs. In the kitchen, the new chef Helena Puolakka offers Finnish cuisine with French and Russian accents. Count between € 100 and € 150 per person for dinner (from € 70 for lunch).

DAY 2: TOWARDS LIGHT AND THE SEA

Morning

Active citizenship, freedom of expression, and learning at any age are the progressive values ​​of Oodi, the Helsinki public library, produced by the Finnish studio ALA Architects.

Adobe Stock

After tasting a

cinnamon

(typical Finnish brioche)

from the

at the

of the St. George hotel, head to

, Helsinki's central library, located in front of the parliament. With its undulating ceiling and ship-shaped structure, this 21st century library is more than a place to borrow books. As proof, only a third of its space is used to store books, namely a maximum of 100,000 volumes. Offered to residents in 2017 for the 100th anniversary of Finland's independence, Oodi is nicknamed "the nation's salon". You can develop photos, record a disc, play music, cook, print t-shirts ... and its

is ideal for reading, almost in the sky.

On leaving Oodi, take a look at

, an imposing white marble concert and conference hall, built by Alvar Aalto after the war.

Not far away is the famous

, a contemporary art museum in Helsinki, designed by Steven Holl in 1998. His project won the tender, in particular for its ability to bring natural light into the building.

Currently under construction, the museum will reopen in spring 2022.

Designed by the Suomalainen brothers, Temppeliaukio Church is one of Helsinki's tourist attractions.

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Before returning to the port, a detour to the astonishing Lutheran church of

must.

Built at the end of the 1960s in a rock, this rock church is surmounted by a copper dome allowing light to pass through.

The atmosphere invites contemplation and the excellent acoustics make it the ideal place to come and listen to concerts.

Churches abound in Helsinki.

Walking towards

, the harbor market, where you can enjoy coffee under a heated tent in winter, you can admire from afar the

, symbol of the city, and the

, imposing brick-style building. Byzantine.

Lunch break

To the right of the port looking out to sea, the Halls of Helsinki has housed an old covered market,

, since 1889. After

around the wooden stalls, where you can find all kinds of traditional products (salmon, caviar, reindeer meat, pastries…).

Take a seat (if there is room) at

, a restaurant on the go, renowned for its succulent salmon soup, one of the best in Helsinki at € 13.90.

Afternoon

Even if it is only the time of a cruise stopover, it is necessary to visit the Suomenlinna fortress, classified on the list of world heritage by Unesco.

Adobe Stock

On the port, the archipelago and its 300 islands extend their arms to you. Embark on a ferry (there are every half an hour, summer and winter when they are replaced by icebreakers) for the island of

which can be reached in about twenty minutes. Considered a district of Helsinki in its own right, this ancient fortress built by the Swedes in the 18th century is actually made up of several small islands linked together by bridges. Routes allow you to follow the ramparts and enjoy the magnificent landscapes covered with a white or green mantle depending on the season. There are cafes and restaurants. Many Helsinkians come to picnic there in fine weather.

If you fancy more wild nature, prefer the island of

, located in front of Suomenlinna. Long owned by the Russian army, it has only been open to the public for 5 years. The landscapes are beautiful there and ghost stories surround its abandoned buildings… It offers superb views and hosted the first Helsinki Biennale of Contemporary Art in the summer of 2021. Finally for a total immersion in the city.

archipelago, the ideal is to rent the

chalet

designed by Finnish architect Pekka Littow.

Placed at water level 20 minutes east of the city center, this dark wooden cabin with a minimalist design (they will soon be five in different colors) open to the sea, fully removable, without impact on the environment , heated by solar energy, allows you to discover the art of living of the Finnish chalet near the capital.

A boat transfer and catering service makes it a true eco-responsible hotel experience.

Evening

You can't escape the sauna ritual on a trip to Finland! With more than 3 million steam baths for 5.5 million inhabitants, it is first and foremost a private affair. This does not prevent public saunas from existing. Located on a small peninsula south of the capital,

(which means water vapor) looks like a futuristic vessel advancing into the sea. Imagined by the Avanto Architects firm, this recycled wood slat building is made up of several saunas (€ 19 entry), small lounges and terraces where you come to sip a beer with friends after purifying your body and mind in the hot steam and then immersing yourself in the icy waters of the Baltic.

Löyly has a design restaurant with a breathtaking view of the sea and the city, the menu offers sustainable and local dishes (around € 50 per person).

Address Book

BARS, COFFEES & PASTRIES

Goldfish Bar, Korkeavuorenkatu 21, 00130 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 10 3232980.

Wino, Fleminginkatu 11, 00500 Helsinki.

Phone: +358 45 222 7745.

The Bull & The Firm, Kulmavuorenkatu, 2, 00500 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 44 2426454.

Trillby & Chadwick, Katariinankatu, 1, 00170 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 40 1803199.

Pastry shop Teemu Aura, Siltasaarenkatu, 12 - 00530 Helsinki.

Phone: +358 50 5231523.

Gateau, Urho Kekkosen katu, 1, 00100 Helsinki.

Phone.

: + 358 40 535 9928 (there are other Gateau bakeries in different districts of Helsinki).

Ekberg, Bulevardi, 9, 00120 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 9 6811 860.

Cafe Regatta, Merikannontie 8, 00260 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 40 4149 167.

Päiväkahvibaari Café One Vallila, Päijänteentie, 29, 00510 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 40 678 1301.

RESTAURANTS

Savoy, Eteläesplanadi, 14, 00130 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 9 6128530.

Alexanderplats, Eteläesplanadi, 22, 00130 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 44 7239030.

Story, Vanha Kauppahalli Eteläranta, 00130 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 10 666 8458.

Löyly, Hernesaarenranta, 4, 00150 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 9 6128 6550.

Yes Yes Yes, Iso Roobertinkatu, 1, 00120 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 9 6128 5130.

Basbas Kulma, 27–29, 00150 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 44 230 5900.

Grön, Albertinkatu, 36, 00180 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 50 328 9181.

SHOPPING

Glasshouse Helsinki, Aleksanterinkatu, 13, 00100 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 44 240 4139.

Lokal Gallery, Annankatu, 9, 00120 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 44 984 1467.

Iittala Store Esplanadi, Pohjoisesplanadi, 23, 00100 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 204 39 3501.

Artek Helsinki, Keskuskatu, 1B, 00100 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 10617 3480.

Artek 2nd Cycle, Pieni Roobertinkatu, 4-6, 00130 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 106173467.

Marimekko, Aleksanterinkatu, 52, 00100 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 91211 (several shops elsewhere in the city).

Johanna Gullichsen, Lasipalatsi Store, Mannerheimintie, 22-24, 00100 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 40 682 77 27.

HAVE TO DO

Helsinki

is easy

explore

foot and you will be able to cover a large part of the city in a day.

spy / stock.adobe.com

Design Museum, Korkeavuorenkatu, 23, 00130 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 9 6220 540.

Espoo Museum of Modern Art (EMMA), Ahertajantie 5, Tapiola, Espoo.

Phone.

: +358 43 827 0941.

Alvar Aalto House, Riihitie, 20, 00330 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 9 481 350.

Studio Alto, Tiilimäki, 20, 00330 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 9 481 350.

Oodi, Töölönlahdenkatu, 4, 00100 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 9 310 85000.

Finlandia Palace, Mannerheimintie, 13th, 00100 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 9 40241.

Kiasma, Mannerheiminaukio, 2, 00100 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 294 500 501.

Temppeliaukio, Lutherinkatu, 3, 00100 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 9 2340 6320.

Majamaja, Vuorilahdenniemi.

From 190 € per night.

Helsinki bike tours, Mannerheimintie, 10, 00100 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 40 76 76 575. From € 48 per tour.

OR SLEEP

Hotel U14

The warm atmosphere of the Art Deco-inspired lobby and the 117 colorful rooms punctuated with arty details make it an excellent base for discovering Helsinki Marriott / Photo prese

Located in a quiet street a stone's throw from the port and the Esplanadi, this Autograph Collection (Marriott) hotel, open in 2020, has some great surprises in store.

While there is nothing exceptional about the exterior, the warm atmosphere of the Art Deco-inspired lobby and the 117 colorful rooms punctuated with arty details make it an excellent base for discovering Helsinki.

Special mention for the Californian and Finnish-inspired restaurant menu imagined by famous chef Kape Aihinen.

From € 220 per room, breakfast included.

Hotel U14 Autograph Collection, Unioninkatu, 14, 00130 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 29 3141414.

St. George

The stylish Hotel St. George Helsinki is housed in a building dating from the 1840s. Photo press

Facing the Old Church Park, in the heart of Helsinki, this magnificent granite building, representative of the “Jugendstil” movement, was transformed into a luxury hotel in 2018. St. George houses a collection of works of art , many of which are exhibited in the 153 rooms with warm and minimal decoration, in the "Aalto" spirit.

Formerly home to the prestigious Finnish Literature Society, it hosts artistic gatherings and collaborations with galleries.

Its restaurant Andrea combines Turkish and Finnish inspirations, while its small pastry shop delights with homemade local specialties.

From € 240 per night.

St. George, Yrjönkatu, 13, 00120 Helsinki.

Phone.

: +358 9 4246 00 10.