The textile and clothing industry was once one of the most active industries in Hong Kong, and the quality of handmade suits is internationally renowned.
Nan Fung Yarn Factory held an exhibition "Aboriginal Dignity: The History of Hong Kong's Handmade Suit Development" with the theme of handmade suits on the 5th and 28th of this month. In addition to describing the evolution of handmade suits in Hong Kong with interview texts and fragments, it also exhibited a number of representative sets. Suits, including the suits and shirts of "A Tian" and "A Mu" in "Uncle's Love".
The curator Zheng Tianyi said that Hong Kong’s handmade suits are famous for their "flat, beautiful, upright, and fast" characteristics, and they have successfully entered the international market. Many celebrities and tourists have come to Hong Kong to make suits. She hopes that the public will be able to use the exhibition. , To understand the evolution of local suits, so as to have a deeper understanding of Hong Kong’s history and culture.
On the 5th and 28th of this month, Nan Fung Spinners held an exhibition "Aboriginal Alien: The History of the Development of Handmade Suits in Hong Kong" with the theme of handmade suits.
(Photo by Lu Ningmin)
In the 1940s, when China was liberated, a group of Shanghai tailors who went south brought labor and capital to Hong Kong, which made the handmade suit industry very prosperous that year, attracting tourists and soldiers and sailors to specially come to Hong Kong to make suits. Many tailors were busy rushing the goods It is not possible to make payments, and it is considered a lucrative industry.
The curator Zheng Tianyi described the Hong Kong-made characteristics of "flat, beautiful, upright and fast", which has established a good reputation for local handmade suits and successfully entered the international market. In the early years, many celebrities and tourists came to Hong Kong to make suits. .
Wang Wenhu (Tony, right) is the second-generation descendant of Fu Shing & Son. The shop is located on the second floor of the Navy Mall next to the Wanchai Fenwick Wharf. Back then, he often made suits for the U.S. Army. Since the U.S. Army only went ashore for a few days, it took several days or even 24. "Delivery" within hours.
(Photo by Lu Ningmin)
Fuxing is located next to the Disposal Domain Wharf for the U.S. Army to rush to deliver the goods within 24 hours
Wang Wenhu (Tony) is the second generation of Fu Shing & Son. His family had been in Shanghai as early as the 1920s to do business and make western clothes. Later, his grandfather brought his father to Hong Kong to develop.
Fu Shing & Son's shop is located on the second floor of the Navy Mall next to the Wanchai Fenwick Wharf. Back then, they often made suits for the US military. Since the US military only went ashore for a few days, it would take several days or even 24 hours to "deliver".
Wang Wenhu described that Hong Kong's handmade suit industry is not only famous for its craftsmanship, but also for its high-quality fabrics. There were many export orders that year.
There is an 8-foot-long time table in the exhibition hall. It was originally from 1950 and has been used in stores in the Navy Mall. Wang Wenhu cherishes it.
(Photo by Lu Ningmin)
Gongfutai contains memories of youth "Pull the curtain and watch"
There is an 8-foot-long time table in the exhibition hall. It was originally from 1950 and has been used in stores in the Navy Mall. Wang Wenhu cherishes it.
He described the crafting station as multifunctional. In addition to daily work, the tailor also sleeps on the wooden frame under the stage, "if you bury the curtain, you can sit on the floor."
Zheng Tianyi is even more explosive, and many tailors will also gamble on the timetable in their leisure time, "He will use the shirt button as a bargaining chip."
Sam's Tailor Indian father and son soldiers fight for suit design every day
Roshan Melwani, the third-generation successor of Sam's Tailor, also demonstrated his innovative suits.
India left the British colony in 1947. Roshan's grandfather came to Hong Kong in 1952 and worked in a tailor shop. Later, he founded a brand and opened a shop in Tsim Sha Tsui. At that time, many sailors stayed in Hong Kong for a short time and would make suits here. .
In the 1950s and 1960s, Roshan's father began to help in the store, lay the groundwork and established the brand status.
After Roshan took over, the two fathers and sons quarreled almost every day for design. Roshan described his father as focusing on efficiency, but his ideas were novel and creative, and he could design more distinctive suits, such as single-button suits and concealed pockets with chest pockets. There are as many as 5 inner pockets for holding mobile phones and pens. He also demonstrated the various functions of the suit on an impromptu. "The most important thing is that when the guests wear the suit, work and life are very convenient, and it does not affect the dignified appearance of the suit." .
Johny Chiu (Johny Chiu) became a tailor apprentice at the age of 14. He recalled that the master was very strict with them.
(Photo by Lu Ningmin)
In 1964, only 14-year-old Johny Chiu became a tailoring apprentice. He recalled that Hong Kong's economy took off at that time, and many warships were in port. Many soldiers needed to make shirts. Every tailor was busy rushing to work, so he often worked. In the middle of the night, spend the night at the Gongfu Station in the store.
Zhao Ruqing said with a smile, the master was very strict back then, "We six brothers, one made a mistake, all were punished, all of them were shot out!"
Shige opened a branch in New York and became a famous Peninsula hotel for 58 years
The four major tailors in Hong Kong in the past were Yamin Xingchang, Pei Luomeng, Yi Antai, and He Chao. Later, He Chao graduated and the position was topped by the exquisite craftsmanship of Shige.
Ascot Chang, which started by making top-notch shirts, was founded in 1953 by Zhang Zibin, who had been apprenticeship in Shanghai at the age of 14, and his first store was located in Kimberley Road.
The second-generation successor Tony shared his father’s storied history of breaking the brand into New York and opening a branch in his early years. Former US President George Bush, film star Leonardo DiCaprio, and famous architect I.M. Pei are all fans of Shige.
The Poetry currently has three stores in Hong Kong. Among them, the Peninsula Hotel has been operating since 1963 and has a long history.
The suits of "A Tian" and "A Mu" from this year's popular ViuTV BL series "Uncle's Love" were exhibited on the field.
(Photo by Lu Ningmin)
The third-generation heir reveals the "Amu" suit design idea
There are two very good suits on the exhibition floor. They are adapted from the Japanese version and this year’s ViuTV popular BL series "Uncle’s Love", "A Tian" and "A Mu" suits. The shirts worn by the Mirror member Lu Juean (Edan) and the Mirror member Lu Hanting (Anson Lo) of "Amu". The cuffs are specially embroidered with the words "田" and "牧", and the collars are also written There are two English names.
Justin, the third-generation successor of Shige, said that in order to tailor suits for the two in the play, the design team referred to the Japanese version of the original work. This suit is designed to match the color of Anson Lo's hair. As for Ah Tian, this suit is used for marriage. It is a white tuxedo, which is more eye-catching."
There are also shirts worn by Mirror member Lu Juean (Edan) and Mirror member Anson Lo who play "A Tian" and "A Mu" respectively on the field. The sleeves are specially embroidered with "Tian" and " The word "Mu".
(Photo by Lu Ningmin)
The exhibition also displays the costumes of the late announcer Li Wo starring in the wireless situation dramas "Hong Kong August 1st" to "Hong Kong August 6th". Back then, this suit was sponsored by Guanqi Tailor, and Li Wo always treasured it.
Zheng Tianyi revealed that my uncle Li pays great attention to the image of clothes. Many suits are made-to-order, and the cuffs will be embroidered with his own name. Even if he goes to the restaurant downstairs to eat on weekdays, my uncle Li insists on wearing a three-layer suit.
Deng Dazhi loaned out custom-made school uniforms preserved for nearly half a century
Many people abandon the school uniform after graduation, but the famous Hong Kong fashion designer Deng Tat-chi has always kept it in his collection.
Hong Kong is the first place in the Chinese region to wear western school uniforms. Tang Tat-chi attended the Ho Fook Tong College of the Chinese Christian Church in Tuen Mun. At the age of 14, he has grown to a height of 6 feet. He needs a Yuen Long tailor to tailor-made school uniforms for him. It has been preserved for nearly half a century, and its tailoring and the position of the split on the back also reflect the old British school uniform design.
The exhibition also features a "check-in slot" that mimics the photo studio, and next to it is a photo taken by Guan Dexing, who plays Huang Feihong, in the photo studio.
(Photo by Lu Ningmin)
Martial arts movie star Guan Dexing loves suits and straight patterns
In addition to suits, nostalgic items such as classic sewing machines, charcoal irons, shoe shine stalls, etc. were also displayed in the venue, including the suit boxes used by Leslie Cheung’s father, Zhang Huohai’s company in the 1950s and 1960s. Zhang Huohai was earlier than his son. Before Leslie Cheung became famous, he was already an overseas suit tailor. The company address in Central is written on the suit carton, and his phone number is still only 6 digits.
The exhibition also has "check-in slots" that imitate the photo studio. In the early years, most of the "wage earners" were blue-collar workers. Not everyone could afford a hand-made suit. Therefore, the photo studio provided rental film services for guests to wear. A family portrait taken in Shangguanzi's suit.
Next to the check-in slot is a photo taken by Guan Dexing, who plays Huang Feihong, in the studio. Zheng Tianyi described that although Guan Dexing is a martial arts star, he is very particular about suits. According to his son Guan Hanquan, Guan Dexing wore suits in the 1950s and 1960s. They are all made by a tailor in Wan Chai, and he particularly likes the straight-grained styles.
Leslie Cheung’s father, Zhang Huohai’s company used a suit carton in the 1950s and 1960s. The company’s address in Central was written on the box, and its phone number was still only 6 digits long.
(Photo by Lu Ningmin)
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"Aboriginal Alien: The History of Hong Kong's Handmade Suit Development" Exhibition Details:
Date: November 5 (Fri) to 28 (Sun), 2021
Time: 11 am to 7 pm
Location: Nan Fung Spinning Factory Underground Spinning Workshop ( 45 Pak Tin Pa Street, Tsuen Wan)
Fee: Free admission
The curator Zheng Tianyi (front middle) described that the Hong Kong-made characteristics of "flat, beautiful, upright, and fast" have established a good reputation for local handmade suits and successfully entered the international market.
(Photo by Lu Ningmin)
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