Lisbon: our five favorite places to learn about the Portuguese art of cod

Imagine a menu offering twenty varieties of cod and the confusion of the ordinary tourist, dizzy when making his choice…

, in

or in

?

In

or

 ?

Before discovering our selection of good restaurants, let's review our culinary classics.

Legend has it that there are a thousand and one ways to prepare the faithful friend (

). In fact, the Portuguese cook it with all the sauces. As a

(tapas), as a starter, salad, soup or toast. And of course as a main course, with strong regional specificities. It is, for example, in Lisbon that the essential

was born. A simple recipe, but devilishly effective: slivered cod, onions, fried grated potatoes, tied with an egg and sprinkled with parsley and black olives. The

(with cream) is also very popular in the capital, thanks to its clever combination of cubed fried potatoes, cod, onions and cream, which are browned in the oven.

In Porto, your bacalhau will be served

you

, after having infused for a long time in milk and then cooked in the oven with sliced ​​potatoes, garlic, onion, hard-boiled eggs and a generous dose of 'olive oil. Or

, whose cod is boiled in milk and mixed with onion, mash and a surprising touch of mayonnaise. As for the great classic,

, or

simply grilled over charcoal, you will find it all over the country. Finally, to enjoy it on the go, as a starter or

, you have the refreshing chickpea and cod salads, the delicious donuts (the

oval

and the

dish

) and other sandwiches (

).

You are now armed to attack the 5 best addresses in the capital!

Laurentina, o Rei do bacalhau

Born in a tavern in Bairro Alto, Bacalhau a Brás is a must.

Restaurante Laurentina / Press photo

The benchmark for lovers of the faithful friend! Since 1976, the “Roi du bacalhau” has been serving top-quality “100% artisanal” cod, from its fishing to its desalting. In one of its two rooms or on the terrace, you will taste the most traditional bacalhau recipes. We suggest you start your meal with the house's divine

and

, recognized for the quality of the cod and the nobility of the pieces that make up these typical donuts. Then let yourself be tempted by a succulent

with spinach or the classic

(15 €), one of the best in Lisbon.

Some even claim that you won't eat one that tasty.

Every Thursday, the Laurentina organizes fado evenings.

Free parking.

Laurentina, Avenida Conde de Valbom, 71A, 1050-067 Lisbon.

Phone.

: +351 217 960 260. Open every day (12 pm-3pm and 7 pm-10pm) except Sunday (12 pm-4pm).

Clube do Bacalhau

The thickness of the steak is a guarantee of quality.

Clube do Bacalhau / Photo press

As the name suggests, Clube do Bacalhau is more than a restaurant specializing in cod. It is also a cultural association that organizes cabaret shows, concerts (the Bacalhau Sessions) or exhibitions. Its menu clearly assumes its modernity and revisits the gastronomy of the faithful friend with originality. For example by serving

carpaccio and bacalhau tartare, cod cheeks in broth (

€ 13.90) or an astonishing puff pastry (

€ 12.90), whose dough is inspired by 'a Portuguese dessert. On two floors and a few steps from the Place du Commerce, in a pedestrian alley, the place exudes a special charm, as does its small terrace.

Clube do Bacalhau, Travessa do Cotovelo, 12, 1200-182 Lisbon.

Phone.

: +351 213 420 737. Open Tuesday to Saturday, 12 noon to midnight.

Casa do Bacalhau

Pataniscas de Bacalhau, delicious donuts that can be enjoyed as a starter or main course.

Casa do Bacalhau / Photo press

This address with the superb room and the evocative name (the house of the cod) has probably the most beautiful card devoted to the faithful friend or at least the most complete. The great classics of the capital are jostling there, but if you want to discover the specialties of Porto and the north of Portugal, the Casa do Bacalhau offers the three emblems of the region: the

(18 €), the

(€ 18) and the essential

(€ 16). If you want to leave the beaten track, prefer the

(rice with tongues), the

(heads) or the

(a kind of cod cassoulet), for two people (32 €).

Casa do Bacalhau, Rua do Grilo, 54, 1900-706 Lisbon.

Phone.

: +351 218 620 000. Open every day, from 12 to 3 p.m. and from 7:30 p.m. to 11 p.m., except Sunday (12 p.m. to 3 p.m.).

Terra Nova by Populi

Bacalhau confit on a chickpea puree.

Terra Nova by Populi / Photo press

Meeting the challenge of being the “cod museum restaurant” requires impeccable, high-quality cod. Recognized for his traditional Portuguese cuisine and his love for local products, chef Ricardo Estevas has largely succeeded in his bet. His bacalhau confit on mashed chickpeas (€ 17.5) has become the benchmark of his menu, followed by an excellent

(€ 15.5). For the complete experience, start your meal with a bruschetta or bacalhau soup. And in case of heatwave, let yourself be tempted by a hearty cod salad. The little extra: the restaurant is ideally located on the Place du Commerce, and its terrace is a delight in summer.

Terra Nova by Populi, Ala Nascente Terreiro do Paço, 85/86, Lisbon.

Phone.

: +351 218 877 395. Open daily, from 12 noon to 11 p.m. (Saturday, noon to 1 a.m.).

O Safe

The great classic: grilled, sprinkled with garlic and drizzled with olive oil.

Press photo

O Cofre, a restaurant located below the very touristy area of ​​the cathedral (Sé), has

a popular “

” (neighborhood canteen)

atmosphere

for you. Historically, he has only cooked grills, made on the enormous charcoal grill in the establishment's window. His grilled cod (

, € 11.00), drizzled with a generous drizzle of olive oil and served with new potatoes, is of excellent quality. The green wine on tap from the house will accompany it perfectly, seated in the dining room or on the terrace. Equally typical, the

Zé da Mouraria

offers a

in the Graça

(with chickpeas and potatoes) for which the locals are lining up.

O Cofre, Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, 2, 1100-069 Lisbon.

Phone.

: +351 218 868 935. Open daily, from 11:30 am to 11:30 pm.