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48 hours in Marrakech, a bohemian getaway in the red city

2021-11-18T06:15:34.093Z


CITY GUIDE - Its colors have always fascinated artists. Between art galleries, designer boutiques, fusion tables and gardens of paradise, travel to the heart of a festive city, inspired by light.


We nickname Marrakech the red city for the ocher tones of its thousand-year-old ramparts.

But we could just as easily invoke the azure blue of the sky, the intense mauves of the bougainvillea beds or the dazzling greens of this oasis at the gates of the desert.

In short, “the insolence of mixtures” dear to Yves Saint Laurent!

At the crossroads of Berber, Arab-Andalusian and Saharan cultures, the Almoravid capital founded in the 12th century occupies a special place in Morocco.

To discover

  • Trips in Africa: tailor-made tours, hotels and stays from our partners

Festive and cosmopolitan, bubbling with a crazy energy often envied by other equally imperial cities, the eternal muse of artists is constantly reinventing itself, juggling between tradition and modernity.

From a secret museum to an artist's garden, from a trendy table to a pop boutique, a new Marrakech is woven every day, interweaving the colors of the present and those of the past.

We are unwinding the thread, follow us.

Read alsoWhat to visit in Marrakech, from Majorelle to the Secret Garden

The arrival

We land almost in town,

Marrakech-Menara airport

is 10 minutes by car from the center.

Taxis are available but for your convenience, book a transfer from your accommodation.

If you are staying in the medina, you will have the assurance of being taken directly to the door of your place of stay, luggage transport included.

The formalities have been streamlined but in high season, you can opt for the "fast track" procedure which allows priority access to airport checkpoints (from around € 50).

Right now

TO HAVE

A Moroccan winter

in La Mamounia

Étienne Dinet (1861-1929),

Dancing Girls

, 65 × 79 cm.

Artcurial

On the sidelines of its auction scheduled for December 30, 2021, Artcurial is organizing an exhibition of works from December 26 to 29 at La Mamounia.

Big names in Moroccan and international painting are featured in this “Moroccan winter” divided into three chapters: masters of Orientalism, like Etienne Dinet, Eugène Girardet, Edy Legrand, and four works by Jacques Majorelle;

modern and contemporary art, Moroccan and international, with exceptional pieces by Melehi, Chagall, Picasso or Matisse;

and contemporary African art with a selection of photographs by Malick Sidibe or Seydou Keita.

Pleasure of the eyes !

“ 

A Moroccan Winter

 ”, exhibition at La Mamounia, from December 26 to 29, from 11 am to 8 pm, December 30, from 11 am to 1 pm.

Read also La Mamounia in Marrakech, the expert opinion of

Figaro

THE RIGHT TABLE

The Mandala Brunch Society

Healthy but gourmet dishes concocted from local products.

Press photo / Mandala Brunch Society

After Essaouira, the Mandala Brunch Society saga is coming to Marrakech!

At the origin of this concept of locavore restaurant, an improbable meeting: Othman is Moroccan and Birta, Icelandic ... In the heart of the medina, the duo uses the recipe that made the success of their first address: healthy but gourmet dishes concocted from local products and a warm atmosphere, a mix of Scandinavian style, Moroccan craftsmanship and vintage objects.

Bowls, salads or fresh and hearty dishes, homemade pastries and of course a giant brunch to be enjoyed on the terrace: these are good arguments for setting this new gourmet stopover in the souks circuit.

Count 9/10 € the dish, 21 € the brunch for 2. Mandala Brunch Society.

159 Rue Riad Zitoun Jdid.

Medina.

Phone.

: +212 (0) 808534712.

Read also In Marrakech, seven daring and colorful restaurants not to be missed

THE RIAD IN SIGHT

Dar Chibania

A beautiful 17th century caïd house which stretches its 1000m2 over three patios, one of which has a heated swimming pool.

Dar Chibania / Press photo

Another riad? Yes, but not just any! Transformed into a guest house last summer, Dar Chibania (the old house in Arabic) served as the setting for a few scenes from the film

Yves Saint Laurent

in 2014. Like the actors on the screen, we feel in a hedonistic mood in this beautiful 17th century caïd house which stretches its 1000m2 over three patios, one of which has a heated swimming pool. Only ten rooms and suites, cozy lounges with remarkable painted stucco, a spa and a huge terrace with a view of the Atlas: the places are full of intimate nooks for a break for two or as a group, with the possibility of privatizing part of the riad or all. A little out of the way east of the medina, but 50 m from a taxi rank.

From € 99 per double room, € 139 per junior suite, € 179 per suite with breakfast.

Dar Chibania.

24, Derb Mejate Bab Aylen.

Phone.

: +212 5 24 44 42 21 / +212 6 62 89 09 08.

Read also Marrakech, our ten favorite riads for an exceptional weekend

DAY 1: TECHNICOLOR WALK THROUGH THE MEDINA

Morning

There are a thousand and one ways to enter the medina, enclosed by its beautiful 12th century ramparts. This morning, we start the visit from the east, with the

Maison de la Photographie

(reopening on November 1) and its exceptional archive collection. Pleasure for the eyes guaranteed with the black and white shots and the pastel tones of the autochromes brought together in a small darkroom-style room. A fascinating journey through the diversity of Morocco seen through the lens of the first traveling photographers. After the visit, take a mint tea break on the terrace: ocher mansions against a blue sky and Atlas in the background, everything is there!

Take the

Souk Al Fassis street

, which owes its name to the old foundouks (caravanserai) of the merchants of Fez, without forgetting to take a look on both sides of the restored courtyards.

Before arriving at the

Ben Youssef medersa

, one of the city's flagship monuments and architectural gem (currently under renovation), turn right towards the

Sidi Abdelaziz district

then towards

Mouassine

, former Jewish quarter, or

Dar El-Bacha

, which are popular shopping spots.

You can stock up on shimmering objects, clothes and accessories imagined by inventive designers.

Do not miss: the Topolina (vintage fashion) or Corinne Bensimon (decoration) boutiques.

Lunch break

The rooftop of L'Mida, with its breathtaking panorama of the Atlas and original dishes. Press photo / Lmida Marrakech

Peckish ? We go through the main artery of the souks in

Rahba Kdima

. Between piles of basketwork, pyramids of neon beanies and herbalists' stalls full of mysterious gris-gris, the

place des épices

awakens all the senses! To feast on fusion cuisine (20 to 30 € for a full meal excluding drinks), it is in heaven that it is happening. Meet on the rooftop of

L'Mida

, and its breathtaking panorama of the Atlas. On the program, eggplant zaalouk with a touch of feta or vegetarian chickpea pastilla. Another option: the cozy terraces of

Nomad

for a tasty melting pot, between mezze, Moroccan gazpacho and revisited couscous. On the way down, we stock up on dishes 100% made in Morocco at

Chabi Chic

, we stock up on scented soaps at

L'Art du bain

and decorative objects at

Sissi Morocco.

Read also Marrakech: our ten favorite riads at less than 100 euros a night

Afternoon

In the heart of the medina, the Secret Garden reinvents the riad model, the garden house.

Press photo / Secret garden

Do you want to know what an authentic riad is?

Push the door of the

Secret Garden

, it conceals an ocean of greenery laid out on the model of the house-garden, with its fragrant beds, its kiosk and its pavilions topped with green tiles.

Listening to the chirping of the birds and the murmur of the fountains, you quickly feel far from the world, but do not forget to book a visit to the tower in order to admire the 360 ​​° view!

To continue this timeless journey, treat yourself to a well-being break in the warmth of a hammam.

Between exfoliation with black soap and modeling with argan oil, this is a good way to relax before going to explore the large open-air theater in

Jemaa El-Fna square

.

Snake charmers, monkey trainers, Gnaoua dancers and Berber musicians, you are back in the days of baladins.

To admire this whirlwind of colors, smells and sounds, the terrace of the

Grand Balcon du Café Glacier

is the ideal spot: a plunging view and tranquility guaranteed.

Aperitif and dinner

A stone's throw from Jemaa El-Fna, change of scenery with the rooftop of the moment, the

Kabana

, an oasis suspended in the sky facing

the Koutoubia minaret

.

We see life in green amid the jungle prints and glazed tiles while sipping a house cocktail (€ 8-10) accompanied by tapas and sushi.

For dinner, we play extra time or we sit as a neighbor on the terrace of

El Fenn

(reopening on November 16), bohemian chic address signed Vanessa Branson, the founder of the Marrakech Biennale, for a sumptuous Moroccan menu under the stars (€ 45 excluding drinks).

DAY 2: ARTY WALKING

If we are early in the morning, we contemplate the sunrise during a flight (with breakfast) in a hot air balloon. Otherwise, we start the arty getaway with… a golf course! 5 minutes by car from the center,

Al Madeen

is not only an 18-hole course but also a park of 12 monumental sculptures and a museum of contemporary African art, the

Macaal

, with a scenography as neat as its collections. Then take the road back to the city to explore the art galleries of

Guéliz

, the European quarter at the time of the French protectorate (1912-1956) with a vintage atmosphere. At the corner of

rue de la Liberté,

don't miss the

Comptoir des Mines

(reopening on November 20), contemporary art space located in a 1930s building: a real catalog of Decorative Arts!

Next door, take a look at the

Marrakine

boutique

: its colorful country rugs are

sure

to warm up the interiors.

Lunch break

Nibble on some healthy delicacies in the garden of SOME Slow Concept Store.

SOME Slow Concept Store

For lunch, stay in tune by nibbling on some healthy delicacies in the serene garden of

SOME Slow Concept Store

, nestled in a 1930s villa (€ 4 to € 9 per main course, € 3 to € 6 for dessert).

But you can also change the register:

Guéliz is

full of good addresses:

Chez Mado

for deliciously prepared seafood (and an exquisite lemon tart, € 15-20 a dish) or

Petit Cornichon

and its bistronomic cuisine (15-20 €), to be savored in season on its terrace… Majorelle blue, of course.

Afternoon

Created by the painter Jacques Majorelle at the beginning of the 20th century, this artist's garden was a source of inspiration for Yves Saint Laurent to whom we owe its renovation.

Fondation Jardin Majorelle Photograph by Nicolas Mathéus

We will see the current exhibition at

Galerie 127

(currently open by appointment only), a beautiful gallery located on the first floor of a 1930s building before driving to the

mYSLm

, the Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech Museum. , and in

the Majorelle garden

(open Wednesday to Sunday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.) adjoining.

This is the best time to immerse yourself in peace and quiet in the waves of color, capes and embroidered dresses on the museum side, flower bushes, bright yellow pots and intense blue walls on the Majorelle garden side.

Founded by the orientalist painter Jacques Majorelle at the beginning of the 20th century, this artist's garden was also a source of inspiration for Yves Saint Laurent to whom we owe its renovation.

When going out, we take the opportunity to meet the creators who follow in his footsteps, at the concept store

33 rue Majorelle

or at

Maroc'n Roll,

for its hand-painted bags.

Aperitif and dinner

For the aperitif, we imitate the Marrakchis and we take the path of the

Grand Café de la Poste

, an institution for a century.

You can choose from the veranda on the ground floor or the living room upstairs.

Chic neocolonial setting and jazzy music, the atmosphere is cozy, even for brasserie-style dinner (€ 15-30 per course).

Fancy a trip within the journey?

Go to

Plus61

.

Refined decor, Australian chef and market cuisine (around € 15 a dish).

And for a nightcap, if you're feeling festive, opt for the

Jad Mahal

or

L'Épicurien

with a live orchestra.

Address Book

GOOD TABLES

At Nomad, we discover a tasty melting pot, between mezze, Moroccan gazpacho and revisited couscous.

Press photo / Nomad

Nomad, 1 Derb Aarjane.

Phone.

: + 212 5243-81609.

L'Mida, Marrakech 78 bis Derb Nkhel Rahba Kdima.

Phone.

: + 212 5244-43662.

Naranj, 84 rue Riad Zitoun El Jdid.

Phone.

: + 212 5243-86805.

61, 96 Rue Mohammed el Beqal.

Phone.

: + 212 5242-07020

SOME Coffee Shop, 76 Boulevard el Mansour Eddahbi.

Phone.

: + 212 5244-33372

Chez Mado, 22 rue Moulay Ali.

Phone.

: + 212 5244-21494

El Fenn, 2 Derb Moulay Abdullah Ben Hezzian.

Phone.

: + 212 5244-41210

My Kechmara, 3 rue de la Liberté.

Phone.

: + 212 5244-22532

Le Petit Cornichon, 27 Rue Moulay Ali.

Phone.

: + 212 5244-21251

WHERE TO DRINK A GLASS?

Kabana, 1 Kissariat Ben Khaled.

Rue Fatima Ezzahra R'Mila Medina.

Phone.

: +212 8 08 51 06 84.

Grand Café de la Poste, corner of avenue Mansour Eddahbi and Imam Malik.

Phone.

: + 212 5244-33038.

Jad Mahal, Rue Haroun Errachid.

Phone.

: +212 5244-36984.

L'Épicurien, Rue Ibrahim El Mazini Es Saadi Marrakech Resort.

Phone.

: +212 663-055704.

Bô and Zin.

km 3.5 Ourika road.

Phone.

: + 212 524 38 80 12.

SHOPPING

The colorful rugs from Chez Marrakine warm up interiors.

Marrakine

Marrakine, 60 rue de Yougoslavie.

Phone.

: +212 6 64 83 26 97.

Chabi chic, 1 Derb Arjan, Place des Épices Médina.

Phone.

: +212 5 24 38 15 46.

Maroc'n Roll, 6 Rue Houdhoud, Quartier Majorelle.

Phone.

: +212 5243-04906.

Corinne Bensimon, 104 rue Dar El Bacha.

Phone.

: +212 660 103 795.

Topolina, 134 Dar El Bacha.

Phone.

: + 212 679 726 026.

SPAS

Royal Mansour, rue Abbas Abou El Sebti.

Phone.

: +212 529808080.

The Arab House, derb Assehbi.

Phone.

: +212 5243-87010.

Spa Nuxe at La Villa des Orangers.

Phone.

: +212 524 384 638.

EXPERIENCES

African sky.

Phone: +212 524 43 28 43.

Marrakech Insiders.

Phone.

+212 669-699374.

OR SLEEP ?

The El Fenn hotel in Marrakech.

El Fenn

Tarabel, Dar El Bacha, 8 Derb Sraghna.

Phone.

: +212 5243-91706.

From 210 euros per night, with transfers and breakfast.

Villa des Orangers.

6, rue Mimoun, place Ben Tachfine.

Phone.

: +212 524 384 638. From € 480 per night, with transfers, breakfast, soft drinks, light lunch and laundry.

El Fenn.

2 Derb Moulay Abdullah Ben Hezzian.

Phone.

: + 212 5244-41210.

From 230 €.

Villas at Es Saadi Marrakech Resort.

From 900 € per night in a private villa with garden, transfers, breakfast, butler, and access to the Oriental Thermae of the Oriental Spa included.

This article originally published on October 24, 2020 has been updated.

Source: lefigaro

All news articles on 2021-11-18

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