Travel to Rajasthan, the Figaro guide

The

focuses extraordinary cultural, historical and religious.

This territory, the largest in India, is the cradle of the valiant Rajput warriors, the only ones to have stood up to the Mughal conquerors.

Until the 1970s, the state was an aggregation of small kingdoms individually rallied to the Indian Union.

The Maharajas reigned supreme over their overlords and vassals.

All of them have left behind an incredible number of forts, palaces and temples, each more sumptuous than the next.

The medieval atmosphere still emanates from the countryside and small villages that you will come across along the way.

The turbans worn by the men and the colorful sarees of the women contribute to this picturesque imagery.

Read alsoThe Amanbagh hotel in Rajasthan: the expert opinion of the "Figaro"

This does not prevent modernity from gaining ground. The government is investing in infrastructure development. Roads and highways are being built everywhere, viaducts rise above cities,

gets a metro and wind turbines are sprouting like mushrooms in the

. Rajasthan reflects the tension of Indian society, between progress and immobility, opulence and misery, adaptation and tradition. This paradoxical society quickly plunges the visitor into unfathomable abysses. Misery, dust, noise, dilettantism can create a feeling of unease.

The solution ?

The letting go.

Indians live in the moment.

Do like them.

Don't ruin your vacation because your driver is five minutes late or for 50 rupees in a heated negotiation with a trader.

Save your energy for visiting the different sites that will take you for miles.

And try to take a break halfway through, in a beautiful, quiet hotel or in a village, just to recharge your batteries.

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Art Deco and Mughal treasures in Delhi

The Isa-Khan Mosque, built in 1547. Getty Images

For a smooth arrival, make sure that the agency that takes charge of your tour welcomes you at the airport.

Otherwise, ask your hotel to send you a driver.

It will take you between 45 minutes and 2 hours to reach the Lutyens Bungalow.

This charming house from 1937 has a garden and a swimming pool.

For a more luxurious stay, the Art Deco walls of the Imperial Hotel are essential.

Do not miss the Mughal treasures of the

, the

and the

UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Read alsoThe Aman-I-Khas hotel in Rajasthan: the expert opinion of the "Figaro"

Shekhawati, an open-air museum

A haveli in Mandawa, the capital of the region.

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You will immediately be struck by the raw rurality of this region at the gates of Rajasthan. The peasants work the land with hoes and transport their crops on carts pulled by donkeys or camels. Former place of passage for caravans from the north on their way to

the region experienced its golden age at the end of the 19th century. The rich merchants built superb havelis with walls decorated with frescoes of religious inspiration, floral motifs or contemporary scenes.

Mandawa

is considered the cultural capital of this still little explored region.

You will succumb to the spectacular frescoes of the Vivaana installed in the neighboring village of

.

Most villages have many houses with richly decorated facades that have been abandoned.

Called "haveli", they are traditionally arranged around a central courtyard, where the owner plants a tulsi, a holy basil used in Hindu rites.

The major havelis have several courtyards and quarters, one of which is reserved for women.

Some can be visited such as the

, the

in

or the

in

Bikaner, the forgotten beauty

The Bikaner market.

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As you progress towards

, the vegetation becomes scarce, the trees become stunted, with great difficulty hiding the timid Indian antelopes.

Agencies rarely include this city on their itinerary, and that's a shame.

Under an austere air, the

reveals richly ornamented rooms and displays the extraordinary know-how of Indian craftsmen.

Then get lost in the bazaars of the old town, with narrow streets and fabulous red sandstone havelis.

If these appeal to you, prolong the pleasure by staying at Bhanwar Niwas.

But it may be difficult for you to resist the temptation of a true Maharaja's palace, the Laxmi Niwas Palace.

The region of Bikaner is very famous for its camel breeding.

You can visit

or take a dune safari.

Jaisalmer, the city of gold

A camel safari is a must in Jaisalmer.

Astrid Latapie

After hours of a dusty and desolate road, the

emerges like a mirage. Built in the 12th century at the top of a promontory, it dominates the nothingness of its high walls and 99 bastions. Explore its streets lined with blond stone havelis and its Jain temples with ornate sculptures.

When you are tired of the

of insistent street hawkers, go down to the lower town to admire the sumptuous stone lace carved on the facades of the most beautiful havelis in the city.

From the terrace of your The Gulaal hotel, you can enjoy sumptuous views of the Golden City.

A visit to Jaisalmer would not be complete without a camel safari with a night under the stars of the desert (from 28 € for a half-day camel ride and one night).

Jodhpur, blue in your eyes

Jodhpur is world famous for its blue buildings.

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The imposing

be seen from afar. The road ends at its feet, guarded by 7 gates. Despite a severe appearance, it contains sumptuous works of art, richly decorated pieces, frescoes and sculptures of great finesse. End the visit with a tour of the bastion to take beautiful photos of the blue city then reach it on foot by taking the pedestrian path.

Lose yourself in the maze of narrow streets before reaching the

, a very lively market where market gardeners, spice and souvenir sellers meet.

The beautiful setting of Raas extends the pleasure of the traditional atmosphere of the city.

Treat yourself to a romantic dinner at the chic Umaid Bhawan Palace, the palace of the Maharaja of Jodhpur, one wing of which has been transformed into a hotel.

Romantic Udaipur

The City Palace is a complex of several palaces located in Udaipur.

Astrid Latapie

A long day of driving awaits you to reach Udaipur. Stop at the

in

which attracts Jain pilgrims from all over the country. All in chiseled white marble, it can be visited between 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. Arrived in Udaipur, take the pulse of its romantic atmosphere while drinking tea at the mythical Lake Palace, the palace of the Maharana planted in the middle of

.

If it is late, the Ambrai restaurant terrace enjoys a breathtaking view of the

and the

, the famous stairs that lead to the lake. To prolong the reverie, treat yourself to a suite worthy of the “Thousand and One Nights” at Madri Haveli. A tour at

and the

complete your overview of the city.

Our advice

Sweet night.

The frescoes in your room are magnificent.

This old palace exudes unparalleled charm.

And its central position makes it a perfect stopover.

Yes, but… The backfire rickshaws, horn driving, the call to prayer or the temple bells make the nights almost as lively as the days in India.

If you are a light sleeper, be sure to bring earplugs and ask your hotel for a quiet room.

Pushkar, the sacred lake

Pushkar is located on the shores of the lake of the same name and its sacred waters.

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The holiest city of Rajasthan has a temple dedicated to the god Brahma, the creator of the universe. It attracts many pilgrims who come to purify themselves in the reservoir dug in the center of the village. The spiritual power of the place is such that part of Mahatma Gandhi's ashes were scattered here. Many other temples will allow you to get acquainted with the Hindu gods and their avatars.

If you can, make your presence coincide with the camel fair which is held at the end of October.

Crowds of men in turban and women in shimmering saris invest the village.

Camel drivers and their 50,000 animals gather around a dusty camp and attract photographers from all over the world.

But you have to book well in advance and hotel rates double during this period.

Another highlight of the year is the Holi festival, where Indians throw colored powder at each other in their faces.

Jaipur, life in pink

The pink city is a true concentrate of the Rajput heritage.

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After having surveyed Rajasthan, you are armed to face the chaos and the monster traffic jams of the pink city.

If the state capital is not very pleasant to live in, it offers a real concentrate of the Rajput heritage.

The

and the

, the

, the

and its curious astronomical instruments as well as the

form an essential base.

You will find tranquility at the fabulous

or at your hotel, the Samode Haveli, which can be visited like a museum.

Read alsoLive like a Maharaja with Airbnb in Rajasthan

Jaipur is also a great stopover to succumb to the delicious cuisine of Rajasthan.

The Grand Peacock Restaurant located within the walls of the Pink City (Gangapole, Amer Road) offers a special menu.

Take an overnight train or flight back to Delhi.

Our advice

To save a few rupees and avoid queuing at each site entrance, get the composite ticket (€ 12.50) which gives access to the monuments mentioned, with the exception of the City Palace (€ 8.75) .

You can also visit the

the

, those

or admire the sunset over Jaipur from

Our itinerary advice

The average travel speed in India rarely exceeds 50 km / h.

Opt for short stages or extend for one night, in order to enjoy the sites to be visited in peace.

Itinerary 1 (10 days): the colors of Rajasthan

Land in Delhi (1 day), continue to Jaipur (2 days) - Jodhpur (2 days), Jaisalmer (2 days), surroundings of Jodhpur (1 day), Udaipur (2 days), take a flight to Delhi.

Itinerary 2 (14 days): the great tour of Rajasthan

Land in Delhi (2 days), continue to Shekhawati (1 day), Bikaner (1 day), Jaisalmer (2 days), Jodhpur and surroundings (2 days), Udaipur and surroundings (3 days), Pushkar (1 day ), Jaipur (2 days), Delhi (return flight).

The best time to go

From October to March.

The Indian winter takes its quarters and temperatures oscillate between 20 ° and 30 ° during the day.

This is the ideal time to travel through Rajasthan.

The nights can be cool, especially between December and the end of January.

A jacket is necessary.

How to get around

In town, rickshaws maraud at all hours of the day.

Here in Jaipur.

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We cannot recommend enough that you use an agency to organize a tour with driver.

The very reasonable prices will save you a lot of hassle: late trains, open buses, fatigue, dust ... NostalAsie, based in Paris, builds beautiful tailor-made trips.

On site, the perfectly French-speaking Movindia tour operator knows Rajasthan like the back of his hand.

If you are traveling on your own, take the train.

Its dense network, the choice of timetables, its advantageous prices and a real improvement in punctuality make it the safest means of transport.

In town, rickshaws maraud at all hours of the day.

They sneak around everywhere, in traffic jams and narrow alleys.

Always negotiate the price of the ride before you start.

You can also use the services of Uber (in major cities) or its Indian equivalent, Ola Cabs.