The story goes that when Henri de Navarre was born, his grandfather made him drink a few drops of Jurançon and rubbed his lips with a clove of garlic to strengthen his body and his mind.
This Pau legend can be learned by discovering the capital of Béarn, an elegant city on the banks of the Gave, with a rich Protestant, English, aeronautical and military history.
But Pau is also above all the gateway to a little-known wine route: that of Jurançon wines.
Which has nothing to do with the Jura but is located in the heart of an authentic southwest, nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees, somewhere in Gascony, between Ocean and Pays d'Oc.
SEE THE FILE -
Wine tourism: travel guide, information and advice from Le Figaro
Atypical wines, magical landscapes and authentic winegrowers
Let's set the scene: hilly vineyards, austere villages, lush green forests, a weather that combines oceanic mildness (and rain), southern heat and mountain harshness and the snow-capped Pyrenean peaks as a backdrop. On the hillsides, between 300 and 400 meters above sea level, the vines, trellised on "haughty" to avoid frost, draw dreamlike landscapes in the winter mists. On some 1000 hectares of sandstone, pudding, clay and silica, Petit and Gros Manseng, Courbu, Camaralet and Lauzet produce there sweet white wines (one of the oldest appellations in France, obtained in 1936), dry (AOC 1975) and in “Vendanges Tardives” (1994) offering a nice aromatic palette and great liveliness. With a nose of candied citrus fruits and honey.
Often family-run, the estates perpetuate a demanding viticulture while opening up to an authentic and no-frills wine tourism.
As elsewhere, a young generation full of vigor is taking over: at Bois Sacré, Pauline and Laurent are offering their “Sacred Visit” with blind tasting of wines and fruit juices for children.
Maxime, 28 years old and 4th generation at Domaine Bellegarde, cultivates vines and peaches to the west of the appellation, facing south and under the foehn, this strong and dry wind ideal for passerillage.
At Clos Laplume, Camille tastes her first dry wine while admiring one of the most beautiful sunsets in Béarn, facing the Pic d'Anie.
Happiness is in Béarn.
Domaine Bois Sacré, 178 chemin de Layous, 64360 Lucq-de-Béarn.
Phone.
: 05 59 21 62 60.
Domaine Bellegarde, 20 chemin Bellegarde, 64360 Monein.
Phone.
: 05 59 21 33 17.
Clos Laplume, chemin Bouhaben, 64360 Monein.
Phone.
: 06 30 93 39 85.
Our favorite activities around Jurançon
Escape game and cabin at Domaine Latapy
Irène Guilhendou is never short of ideas to share her passion for the family vineyard: an escape game to unlock Lord Edmond Beckett's secret, the sponsorship of his young plants or a night in a rustic vineyard hut.
Domaine Latapy, 10 Chemin de Latapy, 64 290 Gan.
Phone.
: 06 23 22 07 29. 30 € for 2 people, every day by reservation.
A Jurançonada at Clos Lapeyre
A wine tour, poetic and instructive: this Jurançonada punctuated by a playlist of 14 songs ends with a visit to the Museum of old tools and a tasting in the stone cellar.
Clos Lapeyre, 257 Chemin du Couday, La Chapelle de Rousse, 64110 Jurançon.
Phone.
: 05 59 21 50 80. Free access.
Wine-loving getaways at Domaine du Cinquau
Explore the “Sentier des Mousquetaires”, discover the mini-conservatory of grape varieties, learn about blending in white, taste a wine, foie gras and salmon pairing: the Cinquau estate is a pioneer of wine tourism in Jurançon.
Domaine Cinquau, Chemin Cinquau, 64230 Artiguelouve.
Phone.
: 05 59 83 10 41. 30 € per person.
Head in the stars at Domaine Coustarret
Passionate about the mountains, Sébastien Bordenave-Coustarret talks as much about peaks as about his wines, remarkable for their freshness.
Between two transhumances, he offers tasting & astronomy evenings on a plot at the top of his biodynamic estate.
Domaine Coustarret: 411 chemin Ranque, Lieu-dit Coustarret 64290 Lasseube.
Phone.
: 05 59 21 72 66.
Concerts and land art in Bordenave
A “Dive Bouteille” made of old secateurs and derailleurs welcomes visitors to Gisèle, the 11th generation who likes to divert places, things and words.
Like the concerts and exhibitions that animate the cellar and its “Les copains première” vintages.
Domaine Bordenave: 245 Route d'Ucha, 64360 Monein.
Phone.
: 05 59 21 34 83.
Scents and DIY workshop at Bayard
Neo-domain, Bayard is atypical by its wines, very lively, and its contemporary decor.
But also through its scent workshops to learn to recognize aromas and DIY to recycle bottles signed by the Catalan artist Perrotte.
Domaine Bayard: 30 Chemin Pierrette, 64360 Monein.
Phone.
: 06 95 31 69 21. 20 € per person.
Combi surveys
Consecrated during the Best Of Wine Tourism 2020, the Suspicions in Jurançon box takes players on a roadtrip version in a VW combi in the heart of the vineyards.
Phone.
: 05 59 34 39 00. From € 19.
Open days in Jurançon
On December 12, Jurançon wines celebrate their open doors with 38 cellars open to the public and multiple events.
The Maison des Vins also organizes its “Hivernales” around food and wine pairings, in particular a foie gras & chocolate pairing on December 16.
And also...
Between two tastings, you have to stop at Monein, "the little Paris" according to Henri IV, to admire the framework of the church, and at Lac command for its old hospital on the Chemin de Saint-Jacques de Compostelle, where is located also the House of Wines of Jurançon.
In summer, the Artouste train, the highest in Europe (2000 m above sea level) allows you to gain height over the magnificent Ossau Valley.
Address Book
GO
By plane:
Pau airport, direct flights from Paris (approximately 1h30 flight, 3 flights per day on Orly, 2 flights per day on CDG) and Lyon, and in 2022, Marseille and Quimper
By train:
Pau station (4h18 direct train journey)
OR SLEEP
Maison Castaings: three bedrooms in an old farmhouse, table d'hôtes and swimming pool in summer.
Quartier Marquemale, 64360 Lucq-de-Béarn.
Phone.
: 05 59 34 36 97. From € 75.
Maison du Causit: mixture of old and contemporary in an 18th century building with spa in an old barrel.
Chemin De Sedze, 64290 Aubertin.
Phone.
: 05 59 11 20 64. From 60 €.
Parc Beaumont: chic and contemporary hotel with spa and gourmet restaurant.
1 Bd Barbanegre, 64000 Pau.
From 158 €.
GOOD TABLE
Chez Germaine: family inn with Valérie, 4th generation in the kitchen.
8 route de Josbaig, 64400 Geüs d'Oloron.
Phone.
: 05 59 88 00 65.
L'Auberge des Roses: a traditional and regional table.
Chemin Cambus, 64360 Monein.
Phone.
: 05 59 21 45 63.
SHOPPING
Pastis d'Amélie: a well-buttered grandmother's pastry.
Peio Larquier, 18 route d'Arzacq, 64230 Mazerolles.
Phone.
: 05 59 77 12 52.
Lait P'tits Béarnais: tasty farm cheeses and free tour of the farm.
2400 chemin d'Eslayas, 64 300 Castetis.
Phone.
: 05 59 67 54 41.
