48 hours in Turin, the beautiful unknown of Piedmont

Watched over by the Alpine peaks and crossed by the Po, the capital of Piedmont is too often reduced to an image of an industrial city queen of the automobile, standard bearer of FIAT and the legendary Juventus football club.

Turin, however, has all the assets to satisfy the most demanding of travelers, especially French.

To discover

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Less touristy than Florence and more charming than Milan, the elegant Turin is proud of its exceptional heritage, inherited from the House of Savoy and the

.

She also praises her taste for good things, which can be savored here with a lot of style.

From

to

Turin can be enjoyed without moderation: our program to enjoy it over a weekend.

The arrival

ACCESS

Turin is located in the north-west of Italy, in the heart of the Piedmont region, 300 km east of Lyon and 144 km west of Milan.

By TGV, it takes around 5h30 from Paris-Gare de Lyon (3 trains / day), 3h40 from Lyon-Saint-Exupéry and 2h40 from Chambéry.

In the near future, Trenitalia will also offer connections between Turin and France.

By plane, Turin airport is only served directly from Paris, with Air France (3 flights / day).

MOVE

Fairly extensive, Turin has an efficient and reliable public transport network. Buses, trams or subways allow you to reach all the main districts as well as the major monuments in the area, such as the "Reggia di Venaria Reale". The historic center is easily explored on foot: it is a real pleasure to go from place to place by taking the large arteries lined with arcades, the charming covered passages or the winding alleys of the "Quadrilatero", the oldest part of the city. Regulated by a "ZTL", the center zone is closed to unregistered vehicles (find out if your hotel is inside!). In addition, parking is chargeable in a large part of the city (allow from 1.30 to 2.50 € / h depending on the area).Nearly 175 km of cycle paths have been developed and a self-service bicycle service called [TO] bike has been set up. The subscription can be taken for the day, the week or the year, in the form of a badge (to be bought at the tourist office and in many points of sale) or via an APP. Count 5-8 € / day depending on the chosen formula.

MORE INFORMATIONS

Turin tourist office and its region:

turismotorino.org

Piedmont Tourist Office:

visitpiemonte.com

What to do now

THE EXPO TO SEE

Parigi era viva, De Chirico

Alberto Savinio, Tomb of a Moorish King, 1929.

Bologna, Patrimonio Unipol Gruppo

The Accorsi - Ommeto foundation, which houses a pretty museum dedicated to the decorative arts, is presenting a fascinating exhibition this season on the transalpine artists who settled in Paris at the turn of the 1930s. For between 1928 and 1933, the history of Italian painting s' partly written in the City of Light: Giorgio de Chirico, Alberto Savinio (his brother), Massimo Campigli and many others create there freely, feeding on the artistic effervescence of the city.

The exhibition brings this era to life through nearly 70 works that explore the relationship between realism and dreamlike, confronting the avant-garde with the Italian pictorial tradition.

Fondazione Accorsi-Ometto, via Po, 55, 10124 Torino.

Until January 30, 2022, Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (until 9 p.m. Thu and 7 p.m. Sat-Sun).

THE HOTEL IN SIGHT

NH Piazza Carlina

Located in one of Turin's most attractive squares, this 4-star hotel has taken up residence in a superb 17th century building.

NH Piazza Carlina / Photo press

Camped on one of the most attractive squares in Turin, this 4-star hotel has taken up residence in a superb 17th century building resembling a princely palace.

Its large rooms - 20 m2 minimum from the Standard category -, comfortable and decorated with soft colors, are distributed around a nicely rehabilitated courtyard, typically Turinese.

The parquet floors give the whole a warm side while the designer furniture adds a welcome touch of modernity.

The hotel also has a pleasant bar, a gym and a panoramic terrace perched on the roofs.

Night from 130 €.

NH Piazza Carlina, Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, 15, 10 123 Torino.

Phone.

: +39 011 860 16 11.

THE RIGHT TABLE

Ristorante Consorzio

The Consorzio menu is particularly tasty.

Consorzio / Press photo

This address located in the heart of the Quadrilatero does honor to the Piedmontese gastronomic tradition, without forbidding a few trips to other horizons. The menu, which is full of certified

products

is particularly delicious: to start, try ravioli with herbal pesto, nuts and tomme, or

, fine egg tagliatelle accompanied by a delicious stew of white meats. Try to save room for the famous piece of Fassona breed beef, cooked over a grate ... Before you fall for the selection of cheeses from the Piedmontese mountain pastures? Exceptional wine list, which will allow you to (re) discover the famous wines of the region: barbera d'Alba, langhe and the barolo king ...

Ristorante Consorzio.

Via Monte di Pietà, 23, 10122 Torino.

Open Monday to Saturday, noon and evening (except Monday noon).

Tasting menu € 38;

40-50 € card.

DAY 1: IN THE HEART OF TURIN

Morning

We start the day with a visit to Palazzo Reale di Torino, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Jean Tiffon / Le Figaro

A successful day in Turin necessarily begins with a good cappuccino accompanied by a pastry, to be enjoyed at the counter of one of the city's wonderful historic cafes.

We must admit a preference for the

, founded in 1874. Hidden under the arcades of Piazza Castello, its decor made up of woodwork, mirrors, marble and gilding opens onto the elegant

.

Irresistible !

It is time to set off to discover the exceptional heritage bequeathed by the House of Savoy, which reigned over Turin for more than six centuries. The best is to start with a visit to

, listed as World Heritage by Unesco. Originally designed for Christine of France - the daughter of Henri IV, alias “Madame Royale” - by Carlo then Amedeo di Castellamonte, the palace is not lacking in splendor with its superb baroque and rococo decorations. The main staircase is a nice introduction before strolling through the lounges overflowing with gilding or entering the sumptuous

, designed by the architect Guarino Guarini.

In the north wing of the palace, the

conceals a number of masterpieces of painting, starting with

by Veronese (1560), of exceptional magnitude, or

by Sodoma (1513), with hypnotic expression. There are also canvases by Brueghel the Elder, Jan van Eyck, Rembrandt, Tiepolo, etc. On leaving, take the time to take a few steps in the pretty park planted with hundred-year-old trees.

Back on piazza Castello, one cannot miss the composite architecture of

: baroque facade, crenellated defense tower, remains of a medieval fortress ... Its visit allows you to dive into the tumultuous history of the city through a beautiful collection of paintings (especially from the Gothic period) and works of art.

The terrace at the top offers a superb view of the city.

Lunch break

Open on Piazza Carignano, the Farmacia is the ideal café to take a lunch break.

Farmacia Del Cambio / Photo press

Open on the magnificent Piazza Carignano, the

is the café of the famous Michelin-starred restaurant

, which has been in existence since 1757. It is the ideal place to enjoy a lunch break that is both elegant and relaxed.

The

the

in gravy

salads, sandwiches or pastries allow to eat quickly and well in the exceptional setting of an ancient pharmacy.

Afternoon

The Museo Egizio is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and one of the most prestigious.

Jean Tiffon / Le Figaro

Directly opposite is the

, the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and one of the most prestigious. For us, it alone justifies the trip to Turin! Founded in 1824 and opened to the public in 1832, it has more than 40,000 objects in its collections, of which 3,000 are exhibited here, in a former 17th century palace. Do not miss the moving paintings of the tomb of Iti, the mummies of men, women, cats and even crocodiles, the countless painted sarcophagi lined up like treasures or the sumptuous jewels, amulets and statuettes. The visit ends with the spectacular

and its monumental statues, which transport the visitor to the lower valley of the Nile.

On leaving, we head for the

, an emblematic Turin tower rising to 167 m, built by Allessandro Antonelli in 1863. It houses an abundant museum dedicated to cinema, which happens to be the largest in Europe.

Because the city was one of the pioneers of the 7th art!

In addition, the building hides between its square dome and its spire a terrace with breathtaking views of the Alpine peaks.

An elevator climbs there in less than a minute.

If you feel tired, treat yourself to a moment of well-being at the

, not far from Porta Nuova station.

Outdoor pools, hydromassage pools, thermal water cascade and infrared beds are housed in a superb 18th century building.

You are in great shape to reach the lively

, the epicenter of the new

local

.

It's time to treat

to

a real

Turin-style

, for example at

, a bar renowned for the quality of its cocktails.

Taste great Italian classics like Americano, Milano-Torino or Negroni, prepared here with homemade vermouths.

The whole thing is to be served with gourmet tapas or

small sandwiches that go perfectly with the bitterness of cocktails.

Having dinner

The Scannabue trattoria where you can taste a cuisine inspired by the Piedmontese terroir and its best producers.

Scannabue / Press photo

Not far away, the

trattoria will seduce you with its pretty old-fashioned setting, with woodwork, parquet floors and mosaics.

Here, we taste a cuisine inspired by the Piedmontese terroir and its best producers.

If the

is one of the most famous in the city, it seems difficult to neglect the

with black truffles.

Also to try, the risotto with herbs and gorgonzola or the braised beef cheek with barbera d'Alba.

If you come in fine weather, you will happily enjoy the magnificent terrace.

DAY 2: FROM LINGOTTO TO VENARIA REALE

Morning

Take a short walk into the nearby Galleria San Federico, where marble is king.

Jean Tiffon / Le Figaro

It's hard to resist the call of the morning cappuccino. This time, grab it at

, a café and chocolatier installed on the magnificent

since 1836. Nicknamed "the Turin salon", this baroque square is undoubtedly the most elegant in the city with its arcades and its equestrian statue. Take a short walk into the nearby

, where marble is king.

Then go to

, Turin's National Automobile Museum.

Located in the south of the city, it is a few minutes walk from the famous

, the former FIAT factory converted into a commercial and cultural center by the Agnelli family.

The museum presents some 200 vehicles from all eras through a particularly successful staging, both immersive and fun.

The great designers are not forgotten, as are the essential models of the Turin automotive industry.

Bluffing, and not only for those crazy about the wheel ...

Lunch break

On exiting, go to

Flagship Store

located just in front of the Lingotto.

Note that this store full of good products to bring back in your suitcases is the first to have been opened by Oscar Farinetti, founder of this chain of gourmet grocery stores now known worldwide.

Several restaurants and counters allow you to have lunch on site, in a rather surprising post-industrial setting: pizzas,

certified pasta dishes

, exceptional grilled meat or market cuisine, the choice is yours.

Afternoon

Reggia di Venaria Reale is a group of princely buildings built around Turin for the pleasure of the court of Savoy, all classified by Unesco.

Dario fusaro

Leave Turin for an afternoon to discover the fabulous

, a palace and hunting lodge built for Emmanuel-Philibert of Savoy from 1659. This huge residence belongs to the famous “Crown of Delights” , a set of princely buildings built around Turin for the pleasure of the court of Savoy, all classified by Unesco. The tour begins at the castle gate, at the end of the pretty main street of Venaria Reale.

Once you have crossed the immense courtyard, you enter the palace through the

, which houses gigantic paintings illustrating the sovereign's love for hunting. But the marvel of wonders remains the

, designed by Filippo Juvarra: an 80 m gallery covered with delicate stucco, lit by large bay windows and 22 bull's-eye. At the end of the day, the light creates magnificent chromatic effects on the black and white marble of the floor ... After unveiling the elegant

- where temporary exhibitions are organized - then the

crowded with coaches, the visit leads to the

, with immaculate baroque decor.

Before heading back to Turin, take a stroll through the vast

, recreated a few years ago.

It is literally invaded by the sculptures of the Piedmontese Giuseppe Penone, leader of

movement .

In good weather, you can observe the entire chain of the Alps.

The Santuario della Consolata, whose baroque interior is truly breathtaking.

Adobe Stock

Back in the center of the Piedmontese capital, we go to the

, the oldest district of the city. It has preserved its exquisite maze of alleys from medieval times, which lead without warning into charming squares. On one of them, you have to take a break at

, which continues the tradition of

a gourmet snack during which you enjoy a

, hot chocolate accompanied by coffee and cream. Cocoa lovers will stock up on

and other chocolates in the deliciously retro cafe adjoining shop.

Just opposite, be sure to visit the

, whose baroque interior is truly breathtaking.

A little further north, the Church of

is also worth a visit with its Gothic brick architecture.

Having dinner

Near the Porta Nuova station, the Bricks pizzeria stands out for its perfect mastery of bread-making, offering 4 different types of flour.

Giulia Nutricati82

Of course, Naples is more than 850 km from Turin ... Is that reason enough to deprive yourself of a good pizza?

The answer is no.

Near the Porta Nuova station, the

stands out for its perfect mastery of bread-making, offering 4 different types of flour.

Our favorite?

The

from Mulino Marino, containing ancient varieties of wheat, particularly tasty and digestible.

To garnish this luxury pasta, the pizzaiolo picks the best products from La Botte: tomato from San Marzano, DOP buffala from Paestum, Piedmont sausages from Bra

Address Book

WHERE TO GET A COFFEE OR A GOOD CHOCOLATE?

Caffè Baratti e Milano, Piazza Castello, 27, 10123 Torino.

Open Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am-8pm.

Stratta, Piazza S. Carlo, 191, 10123 Torino.

Tel: +39 011 54 79 20. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 8:30 am to 9 pm.

Caffè Al Bicerin dal 1763, Piazza della Consolata, 5, 10122 Torino.

Open Thursday to Tuesday, 8:30 am-7:30pm.

WHERE TO DRINK A GLASS?

Affini, Via Belfiore, 16, C, 10125 Torino.

Tel: +39 011 02 40 162. Open daily, 6 pm-1am.

RESTAURANTS

Farmacia del Cambio, Piazza Carignano, 2, 10123 Torino.

Phone.

: +39 011 19 211 250. Open daily, 9 am-8.30pm.

Scannabue, Largo Saluzzo, 25 / h, 10125 Torino.

Phone.

: +39 011 66 96 693. Open every day, for lunch and dinner.

Eataly Torino Lingotto, Via Ermanno Fenoglietti, 14, 10126 Torino.

Phone.

: +39 80 09 75 880. Open daily, 10 am-11pm.

Count from 10 to 25 € for a meal depending on the chosen formula.

Pizzeria Bricks, Via S. Francesco da Paola, 46, 10123 Torino.

Phone.

: +39 011 06 09 529. Open Monday to Sunday evening (plus noon on Saturdays and Sundays).

Count around 20 € for a meal.

TO HAVE

Palazzo Reale, Piazzetta Reale, 1, 10122 Torino.

Phone.

: +39 011 43 61 455. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 8:30 am-6pm.

Palazzo Madama, Piazza Castello, 10122 Torino.

Phone.

: +39 011 44 ​​33 501. Open Wednesday to Monday, 10 am-6pm.

Museo Egizio, Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6, 10123 Torino.

Phone.

: +39 011 44 ​​06 903. Open daily, 9 am-6.30pm (but closed Monday afternoon).

Mole Antonelliana, Via Montebello, 20, 10124 Torino.

Phone.

: +39 011 81 38 560. Open Wednesday to Monday, 9 am-7pm.

MAUTO, Corso Unità d'Italia, 40, 10126 Torino.

Tel: +39 011 67 76 66. Open daily, 10 am-7pm (but closed Monday afternoon).

Reggia di Venaria, Piazza della Repubblica, 4, 10078 Venaria Reale.

Phone.

: +39 011 49 92 333. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 9.30am-5pm (6.30pm on weekends).

Accessible by the Venaria Express bus, which leaves from Piazza Castello (allow 40 minutes).

OR SLEEP ?

Opera 35 Hotel Suite and Studios

Unlike rooms and apartments, studios are a perfect alternative if you want to maintain total autonomy.

Opera 35 Hotel Suite / Photo press

Nestled in an area rich in beautiful addresses and next to the Po, this elegant hotel is housed in a

neoclassical-style

.

The rooms, which have sometimes preserved beautiful frescoes and stucco work, are particularly pleasant to live in.

Simply decorated, they display a soothing harmony.

The ideal address for a successful urban stay!

Opera 35 Hotel Suite and Studios, Via della Rocca, 35, 10123 Torino.

Rooms from 130 € / night.

Breakfast € 15.

Private garage on request (23 € / night).