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48 hours in Parma, city of art and history with joyful dynamism

2022-01-06T06:08:15.332Z


CITY GUIDE - In the heart of gentle Emilia-Romagna, Parma is one of those treasures that make Italy an inexhaustible source of wonder. We go there for a weekend. Our good addresses!


Strolling through the pastel-hued streets of this city on a human scale displaying an opulence characteristic of northern Italy, one cannot help but be surprised by its dynamism.

Every weekend, a compact crowd invades its main arteries which are full of perfume shops, trendy boutiques, restaurants and gourmet grocery stores cluttered with hams and Parmesans.

To discover

  • Trips to Italy: tailor-made tours, hotels and stays from our partners

City of art and history linked to the destinies of the Farnese, the Bourbons and Marie-Louise of Austria, Parma also attracts visitors thanks to its exceptional heritage and its rich cultural life: the palazzo della Pilotta contains a Leonardo of Vinci, splendid frescoes from Correggio decorate a number of churches while the

Teatro

Regio hosts some of the most prestigious concerts and operas in the country.

Our program, the time of a weekend, to discover the treasures of Parma.

The arrival

ACCESS

Parma is located in Emilia Romagna, 128 km south-east of Milan and 100 km north-west of Bologna.

By train, it takes around 1 hour 20 minutes from Milano Centrale - a station connected to France by TGV - and 45 minutes from Bologna Centrale.

The closest international airport is Bologna: it offers regular connections with Paris - Charles de Gaulle, operated by Air France.

However, be aware that flights to French airports are more numerous from Milano-Linate, located only 1h15 drive from Parma.

MOVE

Made up of charming streets and colorful alleys, the city center can be discovered mainly on foot, taking the time to stroll.

A large part of the city center is closed to unauthorized vehicles by means of a ZTL

(zona a traffico limitato)

.

However, there are many car parks that allow easy parking on the outskirts of the city center, such as those in Central Repubblica or Fratti Duc.

TEP's municipal buses are numerous and the service well organized, serving all parts of the city as well as surrounding towns such as Torrechiara, yet located about twenty kilometers from the center (bus n ° 12, departing from the station or from the quay behind the Palazzo della Pilotta).

MORE INFORMATIONS

Parma Tourist Office:

parmawelcome.it

Emilia-Romagna Tourist Office:

emiliaromagnaturismo.it

What to do now

THE EXPO TO SEE

Banksy, Building Castles in the Sky

Banksy, Building Castles in the Sky

brings together more than 100 paintings, silkscreens, stencils and drawings by the artist.

Jean Tiffon / Le Figaro

In the exceptional setting of Palazzo Tarasconi, this exhibition presents an ambitious retrospective of the work of the most mysterious

street artist

on the planet.

She brings together more than 100 paintings, serigraphs, stencils and drawings, offering a wide panorama of her creations, which span more than 20 years.

From

Dismaland

to

Girl with a Balloon

via

Toxic Mary

, we rediscover the transgressive poetics of his work, and we can see how iconic he has become.

Banksy, Building Castles in the Sky

,

Palazzo Tarasconi, strada Farini, 37, Parma.

Until January 16, 2022, Tuesday to Sunday, 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.

Tickets on site or by reservation.

GOOD TABLE

The chef duo, made up of Simone Devoti and Diego Sales, offers inventive cuisine that explores local flavors while giving them a new lease of life.

Tommaso Granelli / Photo press

This rustic decor

osteria

hides its game well. The chef duo, made up of Simone Devoti and Diego Sales, offers inventive cuisine that explores local flavors while giving them new life.

Parma ham is served with a fragrant chutney, barley risotto with minced frogs… and roasted quail with daikon.

The wine list is not to be outdone with a nice selection of local wines, complemented by some nuggets from elsewhere.

The warm and intimate atmosphere makes you want to take your time ... A real flawless.

Card around 40 €.

Cortex Bistrot, Borgo del Correggio, 20 / B, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 062846.

THE HOTEL IN SIGHT

Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati

Nestled in an elegant orange palace from the 15th and 18th centuries, the four-star stands out as one of the best options for residing in the heart of Parma.

Press photo

Opposite the baptistery, this four-star hotel stands out as one of the best options for staying in the heart of Parma.

Nestled in an elegant orange palace from the 15th and 18th centuries, this establishment belonging to the noble Dalla Rosa Prati family offers a handful of plush rooms and comfortable apartments, decorated sometimes classic and sometimes contemporary.

Many of the rooms have views of the splendid Piazza Duomo and the Baptistery, while some overlook the pretty courtyard overgrown with Virginia creeper.

Small gourmet shop at the entrance.

Rooms from € 120.

Also apartments for 2 to 6 people, from 150 €.

Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati, Strada al Duomo, 7, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 386429.

DAY 1: AROUND LA PIAZZA DUOMO AND TORRECHIARA CASTLE

Morning

The Duomo - real name

Cattedrale de Santa Maria Assunta

- has a spectacular facade in Lombard Romanesque style.

Jean Tiffon / Le Figaro

Before starting the city tour, have a cappuccino or a

ristretto

at the

Gran Caffè Cavour

, a historic establishment with refined décor and frescoed frescoes.

Then reach the harmonious

Piazza Duomo

, which is only a few steps away.

This remarkable urban ensemble is made up of three main monuments, which present an irresistible harmony: the

duomo

, the baptistery and the episcopal palace.

The

Duomo

- real name

Cattedrale de Santa Maria Assunta

- has a spectacular Lombard Romanesque facade surmounted by elegant arches, and preceded by a loggia guarded by sculpted lions. But the building is especially famous for its interior decoration, in particular its

frescoes

populated with angels signed by Correggio, which adorn the dome (1526). In the nave, take the time to detail the cycle of frescoes by Lattanzio Gambara, which is not lacking in scale. Finally, the right transept of the building hides a moving

Deposition of the Cross

in marble, sculpted by Benedetto Antelami at the end of the 12th century.

Opposite the Duomo, the octagonal

baptistery

in pink Verona marble - built between 1196 and 1216 - is also a real eye-catcher. Its various portals, sculpted with earthy characters, angels and saints, marvelous animals or floral motifs compete in refinement. Inside, we are speechless in front of the Byzantine-inspired frescoes; and fascinated by the sculptures and colonnades punctuating the architecture of the whole. Just behind

Piazza Duomo

, you must then reach the

Church of San Giovanni Evangelista

which also hides splendid

affreschi

from Correggio. This time it's the

Vision of John of Patmos

that the artist has chosen to represent, with a Christ appearing in blinding light.

The frescoes of Correggio in the monastery of San Paolo.

Jean Tiffon / Le Figaro

This “pilgrimage” in the footsteps of Correggio would not be complete without a visit to

the San Paolo monastery

, known for its mythical

Abbess Hall

.

This small room nestled in the heart of the conventual building hosts a fresco (another one!) Of great beauty, representing cherubs and characters from mythology evolving in the middle of an abundant plant decoration.

Above the fireplace, notice the Diana the Huntress, to whom

Correggio

is said to have given the features of the Abbess Giovanna da Piacenza, commissioner of the work.

Lunch break

Tra d'Uss e L'Asa, the right address for a lunch break.

Press photo

If you want a quick lunch,

Tra l'Uss e L'Asa

is a great option.

This highly prized establishment includes a gourmet counter, a delicatessen and an

enoteca

.

You can have delicious sandwiches prepared with local products or sit on a few tables, inside or on the terrace, to taste small dishes or assortments of cold meats and cheeses.

The natural wines on the menu will go perfectly with your meal.

Count from 7 to 9.50 € for the sandwiches;

from 10 to 15 € for the boards.

Afternoon

The sublime Golden Room of Torrechiara Castle.

Jean Tiffon / Le Figaro

Plan a getaway to

Torrechiara Castle

, a Renaissance wonder located 18 km south of the city (accessible by bus).

This fortress decked out with powerful square towers and perched on the first foothills of the Apennines was transformed in the middle of the 15th century by order of Pier Maria Rossi, a powerful condottiere.

His wish was to welcome his mistress, Bianca Pellegrini, there.

To please him, he commissioned a breathtaking cycle of frescoes for the sublime

Golden Room

, where his beloved is represented according to the codes of courtly love.

The rest of the apartments are literally covered with frescoes, but carried out later, in the mannerist style with grotesques and trompe-l'oeil.

Having dinner

This address, which is unanimous in the city, offers delicious local cuisine.

Borgo 20 / Photo press

Return to the city center, a hundred meters from the Duomo, in Borgo XX Marzo, an alley as long as it is narrow, where the

Bistrò Borgo 20

offers a modern setting and a relaxed atmosphere.

This address, which is unanimous in the city, offers delicious local cuisine, made with good products from Emilia-Romagna.

She also offers very convincing pizzas.

As a bonus, the welcome is warm.

Tradition menu at 25 €;

gourmet pizzas from 9 to 19 €;

card around 40 €.

Remember to book!

Evening

To extend the evening, head to the

Choice

counter , a wonderful cocktail bar run by a young dynamic team.

Here we offer the best

drinks

in the city, to be enjoyed in an intimate and warm atmosphere.

If the menu turns out to be very attractive, don't hesitate to order the cocktail of your dreams from the

bartenders

… They will perfectly satisfy you.

Cocktails around € 10.

DAY 2: IN THE DUCAL PALACE AND IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF MARIE-LOUISE D'AUTRICHE

Morning

The Palazzo della Pilotta also houses the Galleria Nazionale, a museum with paintings and works of art of remarkable richness.

Hanninen / Photo press

It's time to visit the

Palazzo della Pilotta,

the city's major monumental complex, built during the Farnese times for much of the 16th century. First of all, it contains the magnificent

Farnese theater

, an architectural masterpiece built entirely in wood by Battista Aleotti in 1618. Difficult to use, it only hosted a dozen performances during throughout its history, generally on the occasion of sumptuary festivals.

The palace also houses the

Galleria Nazionale

, a museum featuring paintings and works of art of remarkable richness. There is a fine collection of Tuscan, Lombard and Emilian primitives, some paintings and fragments of frescoes from Correggio and Parmigianino, a sculpture by Canova, but above all a fascinating grisaille on wood by Leonardo da Vinci, the famous

Scapigliata

, a young girl disheveled with the face of an angel. Before leaving the palace, take a look at the superb

Biblioteca Palatina

, founded by the Bourbons: it has more than 400,000 works! On the way out, cross the Parma river to take a few steps into the pretty

Parco Ducale

, with alleys lined with hundred-year-old trees.

There is a body of water, a pretty monumental fountain and several ancient palaces linked to the Dukes of Parma, such as the Palazzetto Eucherio Sanvitale.

Cross the Parma river to take a few steps in the pretty Ducale park.

Jean Tiffon / Le Figaro

We then

reach Piazza Garibaldi

, the true heart of the city.

Nicknamed "the Parmesan salon", it is lively at all hours of the day and hosts various monuments such as the Palazzo del Podestà, where the town hall is located.

The surrounding streets are full of shops selling perfectly tailored clothes and perfume bottles from Aqua di Parma, the Italian "cologne" created in Parma in 1916.

Borgo Giacomo Tommasini

is one of the most interesting arteries: luxury brands, boutiques young designers and decoration stores are competing for its doorstep.

Lunch break

At Officina Alimentare Dedicata, regional classics are on the menu.

Officina Alimentare Dedicata / Photo press

Nearby, the

Officina Alimentare Dedicata

is the ideal address for a typical Parmesan meal.

The great regional classics are on the menu: exceptional hams and cold meats, properly aged Parmesans,

anolini

in broth,

tortelli

with herbs, butter and Parmesan… Not to mention the good local meats.

The wine list also allows you to make pretty discoveries.

The restaurant being extremely successful, remember to book.

Card around € 30.

Afternoon

A visit to the Glauco Lombardi museum will be of interest to those who are fond of Napoleonic history.

Museo Glauco Lombardi / Photo press

If you do not have the opportunity to attend a performance in the splendid

Teatro Regio

, you can participate in one of the guided tours and thus discover this prestigious place. It hosts operas, ballets and concerts as well as the famous Verdi Festival, which celebrates the birth of the composer every October, born near Parma. Nearby, classical music lovers can also visit the

birthplace of Arturo Toscanini

, one of the greatest conductors in history, also from Parma.

Then enter the

Basilica of Santa Maria della Strecata

, to discover the vaults of the choir painted by the Parmigianino.

Nearby, a visit to

the Glauco Lombardi museum

will be of interest to those who are fond of Napoleonic history.

Indeed, this institution traces the fate of Marie-Louise of Austria, second wife of Napoleon I.

After the fall of the First Empire, the Congress of Vienna granted the Empress the Duchy of Parma, where she reigned until her death in 1847. The museum presents documents, engravings and paintings, as well as dozens of objects, jewelry or dresses that belonged to him.

How to come to Parma without succumbing to its culinary specialties?

Parma Tourist Office / Photo press

Finally, how to come to Parma without succumbing to its culinary specialties?

The city and its valley, called Food Valley, produce many emblematic products of Italian gastronomy, protected by IGP.

At

La Proscuitteria

de Silvano Romano you will find different Parma hams and

culatello di Zibello ,

Felino

sausage

,

coppa di Parma

, as well as

Parmigiano Reggiano

aged 18, 24 or 32 months, at really interesting prices.

Aperitivo

If these purchases have whetted your appetite, stop by

Tabarro

, a wine bar offering a plethora of biodynamic bottles.

Lambrusco, a sparkling red wine from Emilia-Romagna, is one of the stars of the menu, but you can also fall for an original orange wine.

Nuggets impossible to find elsewhere!

The same high standards are applied to the charcuterie and cheese boards, prepared with the best of local products.

Having dinner

At Meltemi the menu only offers fish, unique in Parma!

Melmeti / Photo press

Book at

Meltemi,

a fairly modern establishment with a menu essentially facing the sea. A rarity in Parma!

Raw fish of unfailing freshness, surprising

antipasti di mare,

fresh

anolini

pasta with white fish, freshly grilled catch of the day accompanied by

taggiasche

olives from Lugurie… Count between 50 and 60 €.

Address Book

RESTAURANTS AND BISTROTS

Gran Caffè Cavour, Strada Cavour, 30 / B, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 206223.

Tra d'Uss e l'Asa, borgo S. Biagio, 6 / c, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 284699.

Bistrò Borgo 20, borgo XX Marzo, 14, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 234565.

Officina Alimentare Dedicata, via Ferdinando Maestri, 11 / A, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 230505.

Meltemi, borgo del Carbone, 3, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 030814.

Ristorante Cocchi, viale Antonio Gramsci, 16 / A, 43126 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 981990.

BARS AND

ENOTECHE

Choice, a great cocktail bar run by a young dynamic team.

Choice / Photo press

Bar Choice, borgo della Cavallerizza, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 349 788 82 13.

Enoteca Tabarro, strada Luigi Carlo Farini, 5 / b, 43100 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 200223.

SHOPPING

“Prosciutto di Parma” is not just any ham.

Symbol of Italian excellence, it enjoys an unrivaled reputation around the world.

Prosciutterria Silvano Romani / Photo press

La Prosciutterria Silvano Romani, strada Farini, 9C.

Phone.

: +39 0521 234188.

Gardoni Salumeria, piazza Leoni, 5 / A, Langhirano, 43013 Torrechiara.

Phone.

: +39 0521 355119.

Pop Up Fornasetti, borgo Giacomo Tommasini, 8, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 232886.

Rooms, borgo XX Marzo, 22, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 956095

HAVE TO DO

Duomo di Parma - Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, piazza Duomo, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 235886.

Battistero di Parma, piazza Duomo, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 208699.

Church of San Giovanni Evangelista, piazzale S. Giovanni, 1, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 1651508.

Monastery of San Paolo, via M. Melloni, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 218215.

Castello di Torrechiara, borgo del Castello, 1, 43013 Torrechiara.

Phone.

: +39 0521 355255.

Teatro Reggio, strada Giuseppe Garibaldi, 16 / a, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 203911.

Palazzo della Pilotta, piazza della Pilotta, 3, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 220400.

Basilica of Santa Maria della Stecatta, strada Giuseppe Garibaldi, 5, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 234937.

Fondazione Museo Glauco Lombardi, strada Giuseppe Garibaldi, 15, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 233727.

OR SLEEP ?

Mercure Parma Centro Stendhal

The 4-star Mercure Parma Stendhal hotel is located in the historic center, near the Palazzo della Pilotta and the train station.

Accor / press photo

Just a few steps from Palazzo della Pilotta and not far from the train station, this 4-star hotel housed in a modern building enjoys a very good location.

Its rooms of good size and very classic decor are furnished with antique furniture, such as these gilded bergere armchairs or these marble pedestal tables.

The small bar allows you to take a cocktail break at the end of the afternoon, before going out again.

Paid secure parking available on request.

From € 100 per night.

Mercure Parma Centro Stendhal, via Giambattista Bodoni, 3, 43121 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 208057.

Park Hotel Pacchiosi

Immersed in a magnificent 10,000 m² park in the oldest district of Parma, the Park Hotel Pacchiosi is the ideal place to experience the city, in privacy and relaxation.

Park Hotel Pacchiosi / Photo press

Located on the edge of the city center, this 5-star hotel is housed in a former 19th century hospice with generous volumes, like its impressive ceremonial staircase.

There are sixty comfortable rooms, decorated in a plush style.

A bit retro but without any unpleasant surprises.

The restaurant serves good Italian cuisine with international accents.

From 150 € per night.

Park Hotel Pacchioso, strada Quartiere, 4, 43125 Parma.

Phone.

: +39 0521 077077.

Read alsoFrom Bologna to Parma, five essential cities of Emilia Romagna

Source: lefigaro

All news articles on 2022-01-06

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