48 hours in Seville, the vibrant Andalusian

No matter the time of year: the alleys of Seville are constantly invaded by a multitude of carriages and bon vivant.

It is the joy that one breathes in the capital of Andalusia, marked by a strong Muslim heritage, and whose history is closely linked to the discovery of America.

From the 16th century, ships sailed up the Guadalquivir river to unload food from the New World at the quayside.

Nowadays, its river port is the only one of its kind in Spain.

The

city (after its Roman name) also testifies to a religious devotion, palpable even in the names of the streets.

To discover

• Partner stay in Spain |

  8 days |

  The authentic Andalusian treasures

During Holy Week, dozens of

parade huge statues of Christ and the Virgin, carrying them on their shoulders.

Avoid going there in summer if you fear the heat, as thermometers can easily read 40 ºC.

And stay vigilant in April: it often rains a lot!

Listen carefully, because here we speak

, a sort of dialect of Spanish that is not always understandable.

Especially since Andalusians speak quickly!

Arrival in Seville

From France, you can reach Seville by direct flight in less than 2.5 hours from Paris, Lyon, Nantes, Bordeaux, Toulouse and Marseille.

From Sevilla-San Pablo airport, you can reach the city center in 35 minutes by

(EA line).

The ticket can be purchased directly from the driver, at the single price of € 4 one way and € 6 for the return ticket.

Credit card accepted.

Frequency: every 25-30 minutes, between 5:20 a.m. and 1:15 a.m. (destination Seville) and 4:30 a.m. to 12:30 a.m. (towards the airport).

By

, allow 20 minutes for less than € 26, or even € 30 during major city events (Holy Week, Feria, etc.).

Good to know: supplements are to be expected for suitcases over 10 kg, depending on the time slot, etc.

To do

now

WHAT TO SEE: the 4th centenary exhibition by painter Valdés Leal at the Musée des Beaux-Arts

Homage to one of the main painters of the Sevillian Baroque in the most important art gallery in the country after the Padro Museum.

The exhibition reveals the innovative side of Juan de Valdés Leal (1622-1690), who did not stop renewing himself throughout his work and upset the principles of the Baroque style in Seville with a theatrical and dynamic style. .

Through three parts, we discover Valdés Leal and the main characteristics of his work (perspective, diagonal compositions, unusual points of view, theatrical effects of figures, etc.), his small works showing his creative process (drawings, sketches, etc.) and its orders for religious orders, such as the Monastery of

.

Until March 27, 2022. Free visit for EU nationals.

Plaza del Museo, 9, 41001. Tel .: +34 954 78 64 98.

THE HOTEL IN SIGHT: Radisson Collection Hotel, Magdalena Plaza Sevilla

Located in the city center, this first establishment of the brand in Spain has a rooftop with swimming pool.

Radisson Collection

With this first hotel of the Radisson Collection brand (premium category) in Spain, the hotel group is betting on the destination. Located in the city center, this 5-star hotel is divided into two buildings with a total of 89 rooms with a

minimalist decor inspired by the Nordic countries, incorporating elegant wooden details. In the lobby and its bar, the olive green evokes Andalusian fields while the brass finishes are inspired by the sun shining on the city. The London

study Borgos Pieper signs this project, where the 5 times starred chef Eneko Atxa has also opened his restaurant,

, inspired by traditional recipes from the Basque Country with local nuances.

The hotel has a second gastronomic restaurant: Justa Rufina, offering a menu dedicated to Spanish gastronomy, around a wood-burning oven.

Rooftop with swimming pool and solarium.

From € 234 per double room.

THE RIGHT TABLE: Maquiavelo

On the banks of the Guadalquivir river, more than a thousand plants of 90 different species (palm trees, bonsai, bamboo, lemongrass, bougainvillea, jasmine…) decorate the garden terrace of this brand new Sevillian restaurant. Each of its eight elegant spaces offers a special atmosphere: cocktail bar,

, casual, intimate,

... Decoration of floral printed fabrics, noble materials and contemporary furniture. Everything is the work of the Donaire Arquitectos study, at the origin of other notable interior design projects in the city. Artist José Piñero signs the

(a tree in human forms), at the entrance of the establishment.

They serve signature cuisine that honors the grill.

The restaurant offers a sharp day menu and a menu focused on

in the evening, where you will find the delicious roll of tuna, cream cheese, dried tomato and truffle as well as that of smoked eel, liver, teriyaki and roasted apple.

At noon, remember to book.

Count on average 50 € per person.

Day 1: center, Giralda, Santa Cruz district

and Plaza de España

View of the Giralda, the bell tower, once a minaret, of Seville Cathedral.

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Morning

Start the day with a delicious local specialty: meet at the

bar (

), with its rustic décor. Let yourself be carried away by the desire of the moment: a chocolate with churros or grilled toast with olive oil and tomato - the famous “pan con tomate” -, accompanied by ham.

After this first immersion in Sevillian life, take Calle Lineros on the left, heading south, to

. We start the visit at the Alcázar, a fortified palace built on ancient Roman and Visigothic constructions from the Middle Ages and full of rich

ornaments (Muslims in Christian territory). In summer, night tours are offered. We recommend it: it gives the place an air of Thousand and One Nights. Entrance fee: € 11.5.

Then visit the sumptuous Seville Cathedral, a two-minute walk away.

It has been reopened for visits since July 1 (price: € 10 / adult).

Take the time to admire the courtyard of the orange trees - current cloister, formerly place of ablutions of the missing mosque - and to climb to

, its bell tower, formerly minaret.

Lunch break

Enjoy a stroll through the

, the old medieval Jewish quarter that has preserved its charm in a labyrinth of narrow streets, overflowing with seductive tables.

Snuggle up with an aperitif around a plate of pescaíto frito (“fried fish”) - around € 6 - at Freiduría Puerta de la Carne, an institution for nearly a century recognizable by its tiled facade.

Then, go to Mama Bistro, which offers an interesting fusion of Spanish, Italian and French cuisine, enriched with oriental and Mediterranean notes, in a chic and cozy decor.

Count around 30 €.

Afternoon

The monument dedicated to Christopher Columbus, in the heart of the Murillo gardens.

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Small digestive walk through the

to the east of the district of Santa Cruz, between Avenue Menéndez Pelayo and the walls of the gardens of

, and to the

, current seat of the 'University of Seville.

It is in this building of Renaissance and Baroque inspiration (18th century) that Georges Bizet placed his opera on the cigar maker

.

Do not hesitate to stroll in its interior courtyards and cross the places to go out on calle Palos de la Frontera.

Continuing to the left, you will come across the majestic - and impressive -

, the work of the famous architect Aníbal González.

Night view of Plaza de España.

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The building was built for the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929 and has remained an iconic element of regionalist architecture, which revisits ancestral local codes.

Stay alert, it is not uncommon to meet flamenco dancers performing in this semi-circular square bordered by a 515-meter-long canal, where the inevitable - but avoidable! - boat rides are offered.

Continue the walk towards the

.

Aperitif and dinner

A must-have drink at

, which is celebrating its 350th anniversary this year. Seville's oldest bar is the perfect place to sample

(“cod fritters”) and spinach with chickpeas. You will certainly come across a few

("foreigners" in slang) but there will be just as many locals, very attached to this venerable decoration made of wooded ceilings, old chandeliers, stylized shelves and walls covered with

. Count on average € 2.5 per tapa, and glasses of wine start at € 1.8.

Have a meal at

, to feast on an eclectic cuisine, concocted with Andalusian products.

All in a tropical atmosphere set in the heart of ancient architecture, adorned with a fresco by the urban artist Vhils.

Count around 30-35 € per person.

In summer, prefer a magical dinner at

, in the heart of the

.

The terrace is simply exceptional!

Read also Tapas, the Spanish aperitif that has become a meal in itself

Evening: three obligatory passages for a drink

Near Plaza Nueva, the Premier Sherry & Cocktail Bar, which mixes local flavors, is one of the places we recommend to spend the evening.

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In the Alfalfa district, pushing the doors of

is like stepping back in time in a baroque Seville.

Its curious decoration, made up of numerous religious objects and portraits of the local nobility painted by the owner, are worth a detour.

A whole institution founded in 1978 by Miguel Fragoso.

Sweet lovers will dare the signature cocktail:

, based on whiskey, cava and grenadine at € 7.

Another atmosphere near the Alcazar, where

offers an industrial and modernist setting to sip a drink for around € 9.

If the local flavors inspire you, turn to Plaza Nueva and the

 -based cocktails

from € 6.

Day 2: from the

Casco antiguo

to the

Triana district

Morning

The Metropol Parasol or Las Setas, an astonishing wooden structure which measures Seville from the top of its 25 meters.

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After the churros / chocolate combo of the first day, meet this time at

 for a healthy chic breakfast or brunch (around € 12). Salads, sandwiches, toast, pies,

, bowls of

, yogurt and fruit… Everything is homemade and is eaten in a warm old brick setting with library area and wooded ceiling and furniture, decorated by the local studio MisterWil

.

In the heart of Seville's old town, take

and stop at number 3, where the remains of

can be found , a gateway to the city from the Muslim era. Continue past the Chapel of Our Lady of

and the

housed in a former 13th century convent.

Admire the current facade, in

style (17th century).

In the

, one of the largest wooden structures in the world rises over 25 meters: the Metropol Parasol, made up of two columns and six avant-garde-looking pergolas.

Its creator, the Berlin architect Jürgen Mayer, gave it a particular shape that earned it the nickname

("mushrooms").

Tip: do not miss the view from the top of its belvedere footbridge (€ 3) or the visit of the Roman and Muslim remains of the

(€ 2) in the basement, before losing yourself in the maze of famous streets like

.

Lunch break

First, stop at the

, one of the city's oldest markets (18th century), and choose one of its bars for a small aperitif.

Then have lunch at

, a gourmet bar on

, the oldest public garden in Europe.

Chef Nacho Dargallo surprises with a neat Andalusian menu, twisted by notes from his travels in Asia and America.

Ask about off-menu dishes.

Average price: 20-30 €.

Afternoon

Flamenco atmosphere and quite typical of Seville in the district of Triana (in the background), which borders the Guadalquivir.

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Before leaving

, take a tour and admire the ancient

(“palace houses”). The four stone columns erected in this square come from the remains of a Roman temple, located on

. Direction:

, still attached to a perfectly preserved wall. Stop by the remarkable basilica next door to admire the neo-Baroque altarpiece housing the image of the

, one of Seville's most revered.

On exiting, turn left to the river for a walk along the

, heading south.

Opposite, you will appreciate the buildings erected for the Universal Expo of 1992 in

, Continue to the emblematic iron bridge of Isabel II of 1852 and take it for an immersion in the

.

An authentic place, home to artisans (ceramics, pottery, etc.), flamenco artists and famous bullfighters.

Aperitif and dinner

The San Fernando restaurant gives its letters of nobility to Andalusian gastronomy.

Located in the patio of the Hotel Alfonso XIII.

It reopened on July 1, 2020. Press photo.

For this evening, opt for a little refreshment at the

, a space of over 1000 m² dedicated to gourmets, in the heart of a fish market designed by Gustave Eiffel in 1861. In this period of Covid-19, the reopening is scheduled for September 2020.

For dinner, if you are ready to let go of the purse strings a little, you will not regret the

located in the sublime arcaded, brick and earthenware patio of the luxurious and almost century-old

, whose reopening is scheduled for July 1. Irish chef Brian Deegan took over the kitchens in 2018 and is bringing the local gastronomy back to life. Treat yourself to the breaded artichokes with asparagus and leek as a starter, then the

fish with rice and baby squid, ink and dill oil, or the Iberian pork rice with porcini mushrooms and green asparagus. For dessert, do not miss the

(caramelized egg yolk) vanilla and orange blossom soup for dessert.

Average price: between 50 and 65 €.

Evening: cocktail and rooftop

The Americano Bar and its art deco atmosphere.

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The

 at the

is a great option to continue the evening.

atmosphere

, we offer a wide range of cocktails around € 15, some of which are inspired by films shot in the hotel such as Lawrence of Arabia (gin, date syrup, sherry, Earl Gray, gold powder ).

Near the cathedral, the Pura Vida Terraza rooftop offers a majestic view over the rooftops of Seville and the Giralda as well as small concerts to sip a cocktail (from € 8) peacefully seated on chic recuperated furniture.

Where to attend a flamenco show in Seville?

Our tip: visit the Flamenco museum, which will reopen on September 1st.

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With Granada and Jerez de la Frontera, Seville is one of the capitals of

, and several places offer performances of this sung and danced art.

Prices generally start from € 20 depending on the room.

Count between € 40 and € 75 per person for a show with dinner and watch out for tourist traps ...

Our advices ?

The Flamenco Dance Museum (

) offers a combined ticket at 26 € (price per adult), including the visit and a one-hour performance that must be booked in advance.

It is closed for renovation until September 1st.

Note that it also offers introductory Flamenco lessons from € 60 per hour per person.

This year, the XXI Flamenco Biennial is confirmed.

It is held from August 7 to October 4.

On the menu, numerous performances in various theaters of the city and in the open air.

The price per person varies between 12 and 30 euros and it is preferable to book online.

A 15% reduction is applied for bookings made before July 31st.

Our gourmet tip: taste the iconic Serranito sandwich

Sevillian youth adore this sandwich with pork loin and raw ham.

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The youth of Seville is particularly attached to this sandwich.

Serranito is made with pork loin, fried green pepper, ham and tomato, and it is often served with fries.

The origin of this recipe seems to date back to the 1970s, having gradually spread on the menus of many restaurants in the city for an average price of 5 €.

You can enjoy a delicious

at

, in a rustic atmosphere.

Shopping: what shops to do and what souvenirs to bring back from Seville?

Juan Foronda - Blasfor:

Since 1923, this house has been famous for its hand-embroidered shawls, typical of the region (triangular and flowery).

There are also other

fashion accessories , such as fans.

Cerámica Triana:

Even if you don't buy anything there, the place is worth a detour for its beautiful facade covered with glazed earthenware.

Inside this typical house of the Triana district, we discover various objects, functional (dishes, clocks…) or ornamental (vases, statuettes…).

The artisans here also work to order.

Go

On July 2, Air France inaugurated its Paris-Seville connection by direct flight.

The company operates 3 to 4 weekly flights until July 13, then daily until August 30.

Vueling, Iberia or Ryanair also serve the Andalusian capital.

Hotels, restaurants ... Our address book in Seville

WHERE TO SLEEP IN SEVILLE?

OUR SELECTION OF HOTELS

Hotel Palacio De Villapanes

In the heart of the historic center, the establishment combines 17th century architecture and modern touches.

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In this 5-star palace in the historic center, 18th century architecture is harmoniously combined with

chic and minimalist

The rooms are richly equipped: Bang & Olufsen speakers, Jacob Jensen telephones, Apple computers in the suites ... On the roof, in addition to a sublime view, you can relax in the wellness area with sauna, hammam, solarium ...

From € 180 per night in a double room.

Hotel Palacio De Villapanés: Calle Santiago, 31, 41003 Sevilla.

Phone: +34 954 50 20 63

Hotel Casa del Poeta

Located in the Santa Cruz district

this 17th century stately home converted into 4-star has a soothing Andalusian patio, around which open its 17 rooms.

Cozy and warm decor.

Some rooms are superbly arranged on two levels and others have a pleasant terrace.

Average price: 230 € per room.

Hotel Casa del Poeta: Calle Don Carlos Alonso Chaparro, 3, 41004 Sevilla.

Phone: +34 954 21 38 68

Hotel Unuk Soho

Between the San Pedro and Alfalfa squares, this 4-star has two patios and has a saltwater swimming pool on the roof.

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This 4-star superior opened a year ago is housed in a bourgeois building typical of Seville from the 1930s, it houses two traditional Andalusian patios. Its elegant facade adorned with balconies, oriel windows and tall windows contrasts with its

interior . Its 39 rooms have been decorated in soothing tones, integrating natural materials with complete home automation that also allows you to set the time of the chambermaids. On the

you will find an infinity saltwater swimming pool, a solarium and a cocktail bar with views over the rooftops of Seville and the

(the bell tower of the cathedral).

From 160 € per night in a double room, breakfast included.

Unuk Soho Hotel

WHERE TO EAT IN SEVILLE?

OUR SELECTION OF RESTAURANTS LISTED IN THE ARTICLE

• El Comercio: Calle Lineros, 9, 41004 Sevilla, Spain.

• Freiduría Puerta de la Carne: Calle Puerta de la Carne, 2, 41004 Sevilla.

  Phone: +34 954 41 11 59

• Mama Bistro: Calle Mateos Gago, 9B, 41004 Sevilla.

  Phone: +34 954 22 73 09

• El Rinconcillo: Calle Gerona, 40, 41003 Sevilla.

  Phone: +34 954 22 31 83

• Lobo López: Calle Rosario, 15, 41001 Sevilla.

  Phone: +34 854 70 58 34

• La Casa del Estanque: Paseo de las Delicias, s / n, 41012 Sevilla.

  Phone: +34 602 46 40 49

• Garlochi: Calle Boteros, 26, 41004 Sevilla.

• The XIX: Calle Tomás de Ibarra, 9, 41001 Sevilla.

  +34 954 22 26 98

• Premier Sherry & Cocktail Bar: Calle Jaén, 1, 41001 Sevilla.

  Phone.

  : +34 955 13 30 32

Light meals at Paradas 7, which we also recommend for breakfast.

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• Paradas 7: Calle Marqués de Paradas, 7, 41001 Sevilla.

  Phone: +34 954 01 97 57

• Mercado de Feria: Feria, s / n, 41003 Sevilla.

• El Disparate: Alameda de Hércules, 11, 41002 Sevilla.

  Phone: +34 680 12 74 13

• Lonja del Barranco: Calle Arjona, s / n, 41001 Sevilla.

  Phone: +34 954 91 70 44

• Restaurante San Fernando: Calle San Fernando, 2, 41004 Sevilla.

• Americano Bar: Calle San Fernando, 2, 41004 Sevilla.

  Phone: +34 954 91 70 99

• Pura Vida Terraza: Calle Segovia, 6, 41004 Sevilla.

  Phone: +34 667 71 74 44

• Patio San Eloy: Calle San Eloy, 9, 41001 Sevilla.

  Phone: +34 954 50 10 70