We all remember Sundays at noon at our grandmother's.
And the smell of butter and potatoes in his homemade mash, at the same time simple, creamy and comforting.
A real Proust madeleine, of which Thierry Karakachian, chef of the Atelier Étoile of Joël Robuchon (1), reminds us of the steps.
A recipe he learned from his mentor Joël Robuchon, the most starred chef in the world.
Ingredients
Want to add black pepper, nutmeg, olive oil or even liquid cream to the mash at all costs?
Don't even think about it.
The real recipe consists of "1 kg of potatoes, 20 to 30 cl of milk, 250 grams of butter and a few pinches of salt," says the chef.
That's all".
Another big question that arises before getting down to preparing Joël Robuchon's signature dish: the choice of potatoes.
“We prefer ratte, or ratte du Touquet, which is the smallest variety that exists.
As a second choice, we opt for BF 15 of the same caliber.
The important thing is to opt for small sizes because they have more taste, cook faster and absorb less water ”.
The right material
Everyone knows, “the right tools make the right workers”.
So, to cook the potatoes, the first step in the recipe, the professional suggests investing in a rondeau, a round, shallow cooking vessel.
“To crush them, I recommend a fine-grid vegetable mill, rather than a whisk, blender or fork.”
Finally, for the most meticulous, who appreciate the smooth puree, the chef recommends passing it through a "very fine cloth sieve".
Lightness and finesse guaranteed.
Read also »
Six mistakes to avoid when cooking potatoes
In video, Joël Robuchon's mashed potato recipe
Cooking potatoes
Once the ingredients have been carefully selected and the equipment acquired, it's time for the recipe, the first step of which is to wash the potatoes with their skin on.
"It is out of the question to peel or cut them beforehand, at the risk of seeing them soak up water," says Thierry Karakachian.
You just have to clean them well to avoid any residue of soil and pesticides. ”
Then, immerse the kilo of vegetables in the rondeau and cover it with cold water.
Salt at the rate of 10 g per liter of water then cook over low heat for 20 to 30 minutes.
To check the cooking of starches, use the trick of the knife.
“Plant it in the center of the tuber.
If it comes out easily, it is a sign that the potato is cooked. "
It remains to drain them, dry them then peel them still lukewarm.
A controlled mash
Once cooked, “pass the potatoes through a vegetable mill and pour the preparation into the rondeau”, explains the chef of Atelier Étoile.
Then dry the mash over "medium heat", stirring vigorously with a wooden spatula.
Last but not least,
add the butter piece by piece.
"The important thing is that it is very cold, so that it incorporates more quickly."
On the side, bring the milk to a boil in a saucepan, then add it little by little to the mash, while continuing to mix vigorously.
Add and adjust the salt as desired.
Enjoy your lunch !
In video, death of multi-starred chef Joël Robuchon
(1) L'Atelier Étoile by Joël Robuchon, 133, avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris. Phone. : 01 47 23 75 75.
* This article, originally published on January 10, 2019, has been updated.
The editorial team advises you
The well-kept secrets for a successful homemade quiche
The art and the way of making a homemade omelet
The golden rules of a successful homemade burger