Weekend in Nazaré, in the footsteps of giant waves

Giant swells in winter and the charm of a small fishing town. The tranquility of Nazaré, located in the Center region 125 km north of Lisbon, was once disturbed only in summer. But its fate changed in 2011. That year, the Portuguese spot became known to surfers around the world thanks to the exploits of American Garrett McNamara, who set a record by taming a wave estimated at nearly 23.77 meters, the equivalent of a 10-storey building. A record broken by 61 centimeters in 2017 by the Brazilian Rodrigo Koxa, setting the bar at 24.38 m.

Since then, Nazaré has become a tourist destination in its own right and all the great champions come here to surf in winter.

What do they appreciate?

The public who contemplate the spectacle of the monumental waves from the beach or the cliff, unlike those of the Pacific which form far from the coast.

Everyone will tell you that the Mecca of European sliding is there!

But Nazaré is worth much more than this miracle of nature.

Read alsoDestination Ericeira in Portugal, between beautiful waves and good vibes

How to watch the giant wave show

View of Nazaré and its beach from Sitio, the upper town perched on a cliff.

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Imagine a mountain of moving water coming from the sea, a surfer pulled by a powerful jet ski launched at full speed, then a crazy trajectory whose objective is first to avoid being crushed by tons of water when the wave breaks, with a deafening noise... This incredible spectacle can be experienced from the cliff of the rocky promontory overlooking Nazaré.

The spectacular show is back this winter, here on Saturday January 8, 2022. Johan Ricou

It is on foot that we recommend that you reach the

and its cliff to see these extraordinary waves breaking. In the city center, take the funicular which will take you to

, the upper town perched on a cliff culminating at 110 m. Arrived at the belvedere overlooking the bay, enjoy a breathtaking view, then descend to the

by taking the only road that leads to it. Once you reach the fort, if you are lucky or have planned your stay perfectly, take a seat on the cliff, open your eyes wide and revel in a memorable tableau surrounded by an enthusiastic crowd.

And if the swell is not there, the museum will allow you to discover the world of giant waves despite everything.

For a symbolic price (€1), you will have access from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. to rooms presenting surfers' boards, photos of their exploits and an explanation of the origin of a natural phenomenon: an underwater canyon over 200 km, forming a funnel.

Not to be missed: the breathtaking view from the roof of the fort.

It is also possible to reach the wild beach below by a path starting from the cliff, for a walk in the fresh air.

A few tips to maximize your chances of seeing giant waves

Nature is not an exact science, but within a week, the storms that give rise to XXL swells are predictable.

However, for non-specialists, knowing if giant waves are heading towards Nazaré can be difficult.

Scrutinizing the Praia do Norte Facebook page is a solution.

Favorable conditions are always published there a few days in advance. But if you want more precision, prefer the Surf Guru site, which monitors swells around the world.

When the wave approaches or exceeds 10 m, it is certain to see the underwater canyon spit out incredible "bombs".

Other tips: follow surfers on Instagram.

They "sell" the "

" particularly well.

Where to have lunch and dinner?

From the ocean to the table

Nazaré is paradise for fish and shellfish lovers.

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In this town which has always lived off fishing, it is difficult to eat badly if you are a fan of fish and shellfish.

Here, sea bass, sea bream or sardines are enjoyed grilled, like squid and cuttlefish.

Or in “caldeirada”, the local bouillabaisse.

Horse mackerel is eaten dried.

Seafood platters will invariably feature crab, lobster, clams, shrimp and barnacles.

At

, it is in a lively and typically Portuguese atmosphere that you can enjoy a delicious seafood platter or perfectly grilled fish.

Simplicity reigns there, like the friendliness of its staff.

From €20 per person (€30 per person for a seafood platter).

's kitchen

has been run by… Céleste for more than 50 years.

In this family restaurant, which is also that of the surfing champions who spend the winter in Nazaré, you will be tempted by the "

" or an "

" of prawns, a kind of panade flavored with garlic and coriander. and tied with a fresh egg.

From €20 per person.

O Casalinho, Praca Sousa Oliveira 7, 2450-159 Nazaré, Portugal.

Phone.

: +351 262 551 328.

At Celeste, Av. da Republica 54, 2450-106 Nazaré, Portugal.

Phone.

: +351 262 551 695.

Read alsoCanned, donuts and even in the museum: in Portugal, a trip around cod

Where to swim in Nazaré?

Our favorite beaches

Sao Martinho do Porto beach.

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On sunny days, Nazaré once again becomes a seaside resort very popular with the inhabitants of the region.

The beach located in the

, sheltered from the swell even in winter, is family-friendly, very well equipped (rental of deck chairs and parasols possible) and supervised in high season.

Its waters are quite calm although very cool, as on all the Portuguese coast.

As you stroll along its wide stretch of sand, you'll likely come across old women in seven petticoats, the local dress custom, bustling around nets stretched over wooden frames on which fish are drying.

And with a bit of luck, you will even witness the lively spectacle of seine fishing and the hauling in of nets full of moving catches!

If you have small children, favor the charming semi-circular bay of

, 15 km south of Nazaré (via the N242).

The beach is particularly well protected, its slope is gentle and the waters calm.

Along this very family-friendly and popular bay, many fish restaurants will satisfy the most voracious appetites.

Fans of long walks along the ocean will find their account on the

, north of the fort, a haven of peace on several kilometers of sand.

But do not venture into the water: on this beach, the current is formidable and the places are not supervised.

Read alsoFive secret beaches in Portugal to enjoy holidays away from the crowds

Where to sleep in Nazaré?

Our selection of accommodation

Hotel Mar Bravo.

Press picture

Nazaré is a small town where the ideal for a weekend is to stay in the center, on the edge of the beach, which will allow you to leave your vehicle in the car park and discover the capital of giant wave surfing on foot.

Hotel Praia

This hotel is located in the city center a few steps from the beach.

Its rooms, some of which overlook the ocean, are spacious and all have a balcony.

Its rooftop and its panoramic swimming pool, on the top floor, are its main strengths, along with its underground car park.

Its weak point?

In some rooms, the Wi-Fi network is very weak, but you can count on the kindness of the staff, who will lend you a network cable if necessary.

From €75.

Hotel Praia, Av. Vieira Guimarães 39, 2450-110 Nazaré, Portugal.

Phone.

: +351 262 569 200.

Mar Bravo Hotel

The Mar Bravo has a major advantage: its location, facing the ocean and a stone's throw from the funicular.

Some rooms offer a splendid view of the Nazaré lighthouse.

Breakfast is always a pleasant moment, thanks to the large bay window of its restaurant directly overlooking the beach.

The pluses: the privileged location and its restaurant, which loops videos of surfing giant waves on a flat screen and offers a very decent menu, in a pleasant setting.

A roof terrace and a few extra square meters in the bedrooms would have been welcome.

From €70.

Mar Bravo, Praca Sousa Oliveira 71, 2450-159 Nazaré, Portugal.

Phone.

: +351 262 569 160.

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To visit in the region, the route of the monasteries and Óbidos

The monastery of Alcobaca.

Tourism of Portugal / João Henriques

Near Nazaré, two magnificent monasteries will provide an opportunity to enhance your stay with an exciting cultural visit.

In

(15 minutes from Nazaré via the N8-5), do not miss a visit to the monastery, a Gothic masterpiece from the 12th century which houses the largest church in Portugal and the second pantheon of the monarchy with, in particular , the splendid tombs of King D. Pedro I and his mistress Inês de Castro.

For the record, the monastery was commissioned by the monks of Cîteaux in the 12th century, following the plans of the Abbey of Clairvaux.

The Monastery of Saint Mary of Victory in Batalha.

Center of Portugal

Continuing on the N8, it will take you 25 minutes to get to

and appreciate its little jewel, the monastery of Sainte-Marie-de-la-Victoire.

A monumental building with a royal cloister in Gothic and Manueline styles, a pantheon and its seven apsidal chapels which are its ex-libris.

Óbidos, the city of Portuguese queens.

Turismo de Portugal / Rui Cunha

In

, a perfectly preserved fortified medieval city, located 35 minutes from Nazaré (40 km by the A8 motorway, in the direction of Lisbon), treat yourself to a walk on the ramparts of the fortress protecting the city, take the time to stroll in the village and its maze of picturesque alleys and let yourself be tempted by the local speciality: the "

(cherry liqueur), served in a chocolate glass.

Even if it is impossible to ignore the trilogy of the monasteries of the Centre, artistic and historical monuments among the most exceptional in Portugal, listed as such on the UNESCO World Heritage List, Óbidos is far from being fixed in the past.

The city of the Portuguese queens, given by King Denis to his beautiful Isabelle, is also the starting point for discovering the treasures of Extremadura.

Practical advice

How to get there

From Lisbon airport, leave the Portuguese capital in the direction of Porto (A1) then take the A8 motorway to exit 22 (Valado dos Frades) and reach Nazaré via the IC1 and the N8.

Without a car, you can discover the giant waves by bus thanks to the Rede Expressos network (Sete Rios bus station in Lisbon).

• To know

the road that leads to Fort São Miguel Arcanjo is very steep.

And the ascent can be sporty... But don't panic, many tuk-tuks are now available to deal with it (paying).

When to go

If you want to maximize your chances of enjoying the exploits of surfers hurtling down gigantic waves, plan your stay between November and February/March.

In spring and late summer, Portugal's mild temperatures will allow you to enjoy the beaches and the mild sunshine.

Avoid in July and flee in August, when the many holidaymakers from all over the region roll over the city like a giant wave on a surfer in distress.

Posted on March 11, 2021, this article is being updated

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