Far from the glamorous atmosphere of Capri, 10 times smaller than Ischia, Procida is a confetti in the heart of the Gulf of Naples, where many sailors and fishermen still live.
It is not a postcard island, even if the cubic and colorful houses of the quay of Corricella are incredibly photogenic.
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In this bewitching setting, a mixture of gentleness and austerity, which served as the setting for several novels, from
Graziella
, to Lamartine, to
Arturo's Island
, to Elsa Morante (to slip into your luggage), tourists are welcome, but it is better to speak Italian, or better the Neapolitan dialect, to be understood.
Procida still embodies a confidential Italy where villages and landscapes have remained intact.
Five good reasons to go there for a walk as soon as the good weather arrives, especially as its notoriety is skyrocketing.
Procida has been the cultural capital of Italy for the year 2022 since mid-January.
Read alsoCapri or Ischia?
Two neighboring islands with different beauties
Visit Terra Murata
From Terra Murata, the views of the Gulf of Naples are dazzling.
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It all started at 91 meters above sea level, on the highest promontory of the island.
Protected on one side by cliffs dropping sheer into the cobalt blue sea, on the other by fortified walls, Terra Murata was for centuries the refuge of the inhabitants of Procida, fleeing barbarian incursions, Saracen pirates, Norman invasions… A veritable fortress, the
historic core
of the island can seem hostile as the dwellings are tightly packed together, with no outdoor space.
But once you have entered the labyrinth of
medieval alleys
and squares with false Greek airs, the charm works.
Views of the
Gulf of Naples
are dazzling and a sea breeze makes the walk delicious in the middle of summer, sometimes windy out of season.
In 2022, the
Avalos Palace
, the former residence of the governors of the island, which was also a prison, will house a cultural center, the heart of the Italian capital of culture project.
Get lost in La Corricella
The very colorful port of La Corricella.
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It is the most famous site in Procida. Upon arrival at
Marina Grande
Port , take the wide main street. Once past the pretty square next to the San Leonardo church, a staircase descends towards the sea. This is where the
Corricella
appears . Not really a village, more like an amphitheater quay where blue and white fishing boats sway behind a line of pastel houses and a few restaurants with their terraces. Mediterranean light makes whites whiter, pinks pinker, yellows yellower. It was in La Corricella that many scenes of
Il Postino
(
The Postman ) were filmed.
), recounting the exile of Pablo Neruda to Procida, played by Philippe Noiret, and his friendship with a postman, an apprentice poet, played by Massimo Troisi.
Film buffs will also be able to find some sets from
Talentueux Mr Ripley
, directed by Anthony Minghella.
Read alsoIn Naples, five artistic and atypical addresses
Where to swim in Procida?
The volcanic origins of Procida are visible on its dark sand beaches.
Don't expect long sandy stretches, Procida has only five small beaches, the most beautiful of which is that of
Pozzo Vecchio
, also called
Spiaggia del Postino
because several scenes of the film take place there.
This horseshoe-shaped bay located in the west of the island is surrounded by caves and cliffs, forming an enchanting backdrop and offering a wonderful sunset.
In summer, the beaches of Procida are often crowded.
To swim in peace, it is recommended to climb the
cliffs
to find a rock and jump into the crystal clear water.
Enjoy the “Lingua di Bue”
Lingua di bue
, a soft lemon cake specialty of Procida.
Misya / Photo
A great specialty of Procida,
lingua di bue
(beef tongue) has nothing to do with this culinary specialty of French gastronomy.
It is a cake made from puff pastry, filled with lemon cream, from the orchards of the island, the shape of which only reminds some of that of cattle.
Others call it mother-in-law's tongue... Legend has it that a resident of Procida, seeing these particularly long delicacies, exclaimed: "
But they are as long as my mother-in-law's tongue !
".
You will find it in all the bars and pastry shops, to be enjoyed warm and crispy.
Take a walk in the Vivara nature reserve
The islet of Vivara in Procida.
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Located at the southwestern end of Procida, this crescent-shaped islet is home to a nature reserve renowned for its unique flora and birdlife in the Mediterranean.
Connected to the main island by a pedestrian bridge,
Vivara
has been the subject of archaeological excavations, revealing fragments of Mycenaean earthenware.
Paths through the scrubland, offering spectacular views of Ischia and the Gulf of Naples, crisscross this small piece of land that can only be discovered by reservation.
How to get to Procida from Naples?
Where to take the boat?
From Naples, in 30 minutes by hydrofoil from Molo Beverello (Caremar, Snav - around €15 a ticket) or in 1 hour by ferry from the port of Calata di Massa (Caremar, Medmar - around €10 a ticket).
It is advisable to take a slower ferry to admire the arrival in Procida.
How to get around the island?
Many buses depart from the port of Marina Grande serving the various villages of Procida as well as taxis allowing you to go around the island and take advantage of the advice of the island drivers.
Count 1.5 € for a bus ticket and around 12 € for a taxi ride.
Watch out for cars that drive fast (fortunately one-way) and sometimes force pedestrians to hug the walls.
More information
:
visitprocida.com